# Woodpecker Build Issues (New Version)



## Melba Toast

Hi all,

I populated the board for the newest Woodpecker version (Q1 PF5102, Q2 2N5088, Q3 2N6027) and when I connected it to my testing rig I got signal when the switch is on, but only as a boost and no oscillation or changes in depth from the other two pots.  The Level pot is the only one that affects signal.  I know this was an issue some people ran into with the older versions of the board that often had to do with the transistors, but I was wondering if anyone else had run into this issue with this version (PCB132 rev2 is printed on the back).  I socketed the transistors and have tried multiple transistors at each position with the same results and I'm not getting any of the ticking people often talk about with the build.

Thanks in advance,

MT


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## Nostradoomus

Have you tried wiring the in/out leads from the bottom of the board?


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## Melba Toast

I don't think I follow, you mean wire up the in/outs where it's usually connected to the 3PDT switch?  Those are open for now since my testing rig is basically an empty pedal with no board and I connect the wires from the switch in the rig to those spots (In/Ground/Switch/Out).  I wired up the top spots because this would be a weird fit in the testing rig with the SPDT switch in the way.  Did I misunderstand your question?

Thanks


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## Nostradoomus

Yeah that’s what I usually do for testing. 9v ground at the top, in/out from the bottom. I use the same testing rig style as you


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## Melba Toast

Ha ha, that's good to know - when I showed my girlfriend my testing rig she asked "Is that how normal people do it?" so now I can tell her yes. Thanks for helping!


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## Nostradoomus

Cant say I’m a textbook case of normal but for your purposes, sure! Hahaha. Can you gently lift the pots up and get a better shot of your solder side? Component orientation looks fine from the top!

May want to flow the switch a little more too.


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## Nostradoomus

Check this thread out, RG Keen is a wizard





__





						Repeat Percussion troubleshooting
					

Repeat Percussion troubleshooting



					www.diystompboxes.com


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## Melba Toast

Hey thanks for the info, I will def give that thread a read-through!  Here's a couple pics of the soldering on the other side, I just checked all my Qs with a DMM and they are good, so I know I don't have faulty transistors at least.  I will go flow that switch again, I was being too careful I think because I had screwed up and soldered in the wrong switch the first time around and I didn't wanna melt this one.


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## Nostradoomus

Fair enough! I always do one, wait a minute and on to the next. Haven’t melted one in a year or two now.

I would reflow the whole row under the rev2 markings, they look a bit dull.


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## Melba Toast

Well,  I re-flowed everything and no luck...I then traced continuity with my multimeter and found I could get signal to C1 but not to C2 and C2 leads right into the whole blend/depth portion of the schematic.  I replaced that 1uF cap and tried again, but it looks like I may have to just settle for this build as a new JFET boost with some extra knobs.  I was also able to put the board in my testing rig and remove the 5088 and 6027 Qs and nothing changed as far as the sound but the board still worked as a boost, so somehow that part of the circuit isn't even active I think.  It does sound really good as a boost which is a better result than what you usually get when a build goes wrong.  Thanks for the help!


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## Nostradoomus

Hmm, sounds like something is shorting out down the path. For sure your R2 is a 47k? Maybe try a different pot for the depth? I’ve torn my hair out before and had the whole issue be a wonky pot.


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## phi1

I would check for continuity from the toggle sw lugs to the corresponding components on the circuit. If I understand you right, you had soldered a different sw in, desolder end it, and soldered the new one. I had to do that once, and after I soldered the new one in it wasn't connecting where it should. I assume that the through hole connection was damaged during desolder, so the switch lugs couldn't make contact with traces in the underside of the board. 

That said, idk if that would solve your problem, since I think the toggle just changes the speed range.


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## Nostradoomus

It also brings the 2n6027 to ground so if that was broken...gonna have a bad time.


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## the_grumpy_gnome

Make sure that the white stripe on ALL your electrolytics is down.  I can't tell for sure from the very first pic, but it looks like several may be flipped.


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## phi1

read your posts again, now definitely doubt the sw is causing your issues. 

First thing you want to try is can you get signal out at Depth lug3 with the depth pot turned all the way down?  You already said something about c2 but I'm not sure where you had the depth pot.


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## Melba Toast

Hi Grumpy Gnome, they're all in the correct orientation with the stripe facing down.  I think there was some lighting in the first few pics that made it look like they're wrong.  Awesome profile pic btw.

Phi, will try your suggestion tonite when I get home.  I think when I was testing it before I had the depth and rate pots both at 0 and then both at 10, but will try to find the signal at lug 3 with the pot turned all the way off.  

Thank you both for the suggestions!


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## Melba Toast

So I tested the Depth pot and with it turned all the way down and I get signal between lugs 1 & 2 but nothing out of lug 3.  Once I turn the pot up 1/2 way I lose all signal between lugs 1 & 2 and get no signal from lug 3 at any time even with it turned all the way up.  Is this a bad pot?


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## phi1

Are you using this convention for the lug numbering? Sounds like you might be doing it the opposite way, otherwise your description doesn't make sense. 


Beyond that, it seems like the lfo section might be bad, constantly saturating the 2n5089 instead of sweeping it from on to off.


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## phi1

Also,when checking for signal, just ground the ground side of your audio probe, and check for audio signal at each point with the other side of your audio probe. There's not usually a need to check for signal between 2 non-ground points.


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## Melba Toast

Hi Phi, yeah I was using that numbering convention for the pot.  I still get no signal at lug 3 with the pot turned all the way off.  

I found this thread and pedalpcb mentions that the hummingbird has been a hard one for people to clone

https://forum.pedalpcb.com/threads/woodpecker-tremolo-q2-2n2646-orientation.99/


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## Melba Toast

Hi all,

I populated the board for the newest Woodpecker version (Q1 PF5102, Q2 2N5088, Q3 2N6027) and when I connected it to my testing rig I got signal when the switch is on, but only as a boost and no oscillation or changes in depth from the other two pots.  The Level pot is the only one that affects signal.  I know this was an issue some people ran into with the older versions of the board that often had to do with the transistors, but I was wondering if anyone else had run into this issue with this version (PCB132 rev2 is printed on the back).  I socketed the transistors and have tried multiple transistors at each position with the same results and I'm not getting any of the ticking people often talk about with the build.

Thanks in advance,

MT


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## music6000

Melba Toast said:


> Hi Phi, yeah I was using that numbering convention for the pot.  I still get no signal at lug 3 with the pot turned all the way off.
> 
> Hi
> I built this latest version and it works as per PCB values & Build Documents. A couple of others have also built it with no issues.
> https://forum.pedalpcb.com/threads/woodpecker-tremolo.391/


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## Robert

Melba Toast said:


> I found this thread and pedalpcb mentions that the hummingbird has been a hard one for people to clone



That's an old thread referencing the previous version of the Woodpecker PCB.    

I don't recall any reported issues (until now) with the new version. (rev2)


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## MightySmallElectrons

Watching this thread with interest. I’m building this one right now...still waiting for several parts to arrive.


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## Melba Toast

HI all, 

Yep just sounds like this one didn't work out for me, good to know others got it working just fine.  Like I said I'll just use this board as a JFET boost for another project.  Thanks for all the help though.  

MT


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## the_grumpy_gnome

Melba Toast said:


> HI all,
> 
> Yep just sounds like this one didn't work out for me, good to know others got it working just fine.  Like I said I'll just use this board as a JFET boost for another project.  Thanks for all the help though.
> 
> MT


It happens. I've screwed up plenty. Sometimes you get to a point where you're out of troubleshooting ideas.  It's really not a big deal to just start over.


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## moonlightpedalbuilds

Same issue on mine. Just boosting the signal. No tremolo


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## Robert

Did you use the transistors listed on the new version? PF5102, 2N5089, 2N6027?


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## moonlightpedalbuilds

Robert said:


> Did you use the transistors listed on the new version? PF5102, 2N5089, 2N6027?


Yes


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## music6000

pedjok said:


> Same issue on mine. Just boosting the signal. No tremolo



   I built this latest version and it works as per PCB values & Build Documents. A couple of others have also built it with no issues.
https://forum.pedalpcb.com/threads/woodpecker-tremolo.391/


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## moonlightpedalbuilds

volume gets louder when i turn the Depth pot to the left and volume goes down to the right.


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## jjjimi84

As a heads up I used a B25K pot for the depth and that seemed to make everything come alive. I noticed if it was only about halfway up with the toggle in the middle setting it only sounded like a boost, That would have made it right around the 10k mark like the original pot. 

Just something to try and see if that works.


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## caspercody

I just built mine, and same issue. Volume pot works, and acts like a clean boost, but no changes with either of the depth or rate pots. I do have PF5102 which seems to work fine acting as the boost. Also used 2n5089 which I either got from Mouser or Tayda. And using 2n6027, which I got off of Ebay from China. If I remove the 2n5089, there is no change in anything. If I remove the 2n6027 and turn the depth full clockwise, i get no sound. With the 2n6027 installed and turn full clockwise there is sound. 

JJJimi84,

Did you have nothing but clean boost before switching the depth to a 25K?


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## jjjimi84

caspercody said:


> I just built mine, and same issue. Volume pot works, and acts like a clean boost, but no changes with either of the depth or rate pots. I do have PF5102 which seems to work fine acting as the boost. Also used 2n5089 which I either got from Mouser or Tayda. And using 2n6027, which I got off of Ebay from China. If I remove the 2n5089, there is no change in anything. If I remove the 2n6027 and turn the depth full clockwise, i get no sound. With the 2n6027 installed and turn full clockwise there is sound.
> 
> JJJimi84,
> 
> Did you have nothing but clean boost before switching the depth to a 25K?



I never used the 10k pot all i had on hand was a 25k.


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## Robert

caspercody said:


> And using 2n6027, which I got off of Ebay from China.



I'd be suspicious of this.    These are still in production and available from Mouser.  Ordering them from China opens you up to the same issues that were happening with the Revision 1 PCB. 

It sounds like your LFO (2N6027) isn't oscillating properly.

We'll assume the PF5102 is working correctly.

When you turn the Depth control all the way clockwise you're allowing the 2N5089 to completely shunt all signal to ground.   Since this doesn't happen with the 2N6027 removed we'll assume the 2N5089 is good, and the base is being pulled low by the LFO circuit (2N6027).


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## caspercody

I just tried all (10) of the China 2n6027, and none worked. I see one on Amazon and Mouser, but 10 to 12 dollars. Do you happen to have one that you know works you would be willing to sell?


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## Robert

caspercody said:


> Do you happen to have one that you know works you would be willing to sell?



I think I _might _still have one left over from Mouser, I'll check in the morning.


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## K Pedals

caspercody said:


> I just tried all (10) of the China 2n6027, and none worked. I see one on Amazon and Mouser, but 10 to 12 dollars. Do you happen to have one that you know works you would be willing to sell?











						2N6027 Central Semiconductor | Mouser
					

2N6027 Central Semiconductor Bipolar Transistors - BJT Prog Uni-Junction datasheet, inventory, & pricing.




					www.mouser.com
				



$2.25 apiece


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## caspercody

But shipping costs from Mouser add up to around $12.00. And I just ordered all my parts for my (2) new builds. So I do not want to pay $12 just for one part, and I am not sure if the problem is the 2n6027.


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## K Pedals

caspercody said:


> But shipping costs from Mouser add up to around $12.00. And I just ordered all my parts for my (2) new builds. So I do not want to pay $12 just for one part, and I am not sure if the problem is the 2n6027.


Yeah I hear ya... 
I have some extra 2n6027 if that could help... I’ll check and see if I have any 2N6027s...


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## caspercody

Thanks!


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## Melba Toast

Hi all,

I populated the board for the newest Woodpecker version (Q1 PF5102, Q2 2N5088, Q3 2N6027) and when I connected it to my testing rig I got signal when the switch is on, but only as a boost and no oscillation or changes in depth from the other two pots.  The Level pot is the only one that affects signal.  I know this was an issue some people ran into with the older versions of the board that often had to do with the transistors, but I was wondering if anyone else had run into this issue with this version (PCB132 rev2 is printed on the back).  I socketed the transistors and have tried multiple transistors at each position with the same results and I'm not getting any of the ticking people often talk about with the build.

Thanks in advance,

MT


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## caspercody

I do not mean to be a jerk, but did you happen to find any 2n6027 that you want to sell? I did find some on Amazon Prime but they are close to $10. I want to try to get this working by this weekend so I can surprise my brother in law.


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## K Pedals

caspercody said:


> I do not mean to be a jerk, but did you happen to find any 2n6027 that you want to sell? I did find some on Amazon Prime but they are close to $10. I want to try to get this working by this weekend so I can surprise my brother in law.


I couldn’t find any... I just looked through all my transistors... sorry...


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## caspercody

Thanks for looking


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## Robert

caspercody said:


> Thanks for looking



I found one.


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## caspercody

Just got new 2N6027 from Mouser, and now it works. Do not use the cheap ones.


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## moonlightpedalbuilds

Lesson learned! Do not buy 2N6027 from eBay stores in China. Cheap!!! Mine was being detected as a thyristor. Got one(as in one piece) from Mouser and worked flawlessly. Always get from mouser first before sourcing it from ebay.


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## moonlightpedalbuilds

@caspercody did you get it from ebay seller diy-electronic?


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## caspercody

No it was Alice 1101983


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## K Pedals

caspercody said:


> No it was Alice 1101983


Yeah I got burned awhile back from them...


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## moonlightpedalbuilds

Just an update. Mine has an LFO ticking at full volume. Hard to record without hearing lfo ticking faintly. I will try to re-route wires.

I came to try voluming up my amp and plugged some headphones when my Sea Horse was also ticking. On the Sea Horse, moving the input and output wires away from the Lm324 helped. Ticking is still there. Unlike before, it was also ticking even when bypassed.


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## Nostradoomus

Try an MPSA18 in Q2. I built the fuzzdog PCB for this and found that to help, also his version of the PCB has a trimmer before Q1 that really does the trick.


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