# Silver "Trace" on PCB, one side is messed up, is that OK? what is the sliver pad thing called?



## burger-patty-and-bacon (Jul 21, 2021)

First off, what is the silver stuff around the "traces" called?  Are they called "PADS"?  Solder rings?  What is the non idiot way to refer to that?

On my melter, I f'd up (but learned a lot!) and had to redo the pots, one of them more than once.  The one that really got me was the BOOTY pot which is a C5K.

On what I call the component side it has the 3 "silver pads" which are still ok.  However, on the back side, one of the pad things is basically fubar and gone.  IS IT OK TO HAVE ONE SIDE of the pad thing missing?  Here are pics to help explain what I am asking about.


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## Grubb (Jul 22, 2021)

I am reasonably new to pedal building myself, so there may be a better answer from someone more experienced. But I recently repaired a friend's build and in having to rewire some of it during reassembly, I lost a pad on the back of a footswitch breakout board. The pedal works, so the wire and solder are still making connection with the PCB and in my book, that's fine. If it stops working, we will troubleshoot then. If you can still get the wire/component leg, the solder, and the traces to make a working connection, it should be ok.


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## Barry (Jul 22, 2021)

The boards can have solder traces (what links those pads to components) on either side, if you look at the board in good light you can see them, if there is no trace on that side you're good to go, if there is you'll need to bridge from that pot leg to the next component


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## music6000 (Jul 22, 2021)

burger-patty-and-bacon said:


> First off, what is the silver stuff around the "traces" called?  Are they called "PADS"?  Solder rings?  What is the non idiot way to refer to that?
> 
> On my melter, I f'd up (but learned a lot!) and had to redo the pots, one of them more than once.  The one that really got me was the BOOTY pot which is a C5K.
> 
> On what I call the component side it has the 3 "silver pads" which are still ok.  However, on the back side, one of the pad things is basically fubar and gone.  IS IT OK TO HAVE ONE SIDE of the pad thing missing?  Here are pics to help explain what I am asking about.



If this is your PCB, You should have Continuity with matching circles.
Green circle has No Connection


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## burger-patty-and-bacon (Jul 22, 2021)

Ok, cool.  So they are called "pads".  The board has traces connecting the pads and the trace is going to be on one side, look in good light for the trace.  And then I can actually get my meter out to test that each colored dot has continuity.  Music6000 - how do I know what contacts to test?  The yellow and red circles look pretty obvious but how would I know about those green ones linking together?


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## music6000 (Jul 22, 2021)

burger-patty-and-bacon said:


> Ok, cool.  So they are called "pads".  The board has traces connecting the pads and the trace is going to be on one side, look in good light for the trace.  And then I can actually get my meter out to test that each colored dot has continuity.  Music6000 - how do I know what contacts to test?  The yellow and red circles look pretty obvious but how would I know about those green ones linking together?


Test Updated picture for Continuity with matching circles.
The Green circle has no connection!


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## benny_profane (Jul 22, 2021)

Put your multimeter into continuity mode (it will look like a diode symbol). Ensure that the board is NOT powered. place one lead on the first pad you want to test for continuity, then place the second. If there is an electrical connection, the multimeter will typically emit a tone. For the green pads (i.e., ground), put one lead on the C5K pad indicated and the other on the GND pad at the bottom of the board. You can repeat this process for any connections you want to test. A visual inspection is helpful, but won't really tell you much. If you want to be sure about the integrity of a trace or wiring connection, you should use your multimeter.


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## burger-patty-and-bacon (Jul 22, 2021)

Ok, thanks all.  I will test those points with DMM once my new C5K pot arrives from stompboxparts.com.
So the moral of the story here is that a PCB that has pads on both sides for SOME components (seems the 4 pots are the only ones with pads on both sides) it may be OK if one of the pads is missing/gone/ruined destroyed as long a the DMM shows continuity.  I assumed I ruined the whole thing when that pad on the backside came off but then realized the pads on the component side are still OK...


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## burger-patty-and-bacon (Jul 22, 2021)

music6000 said:


> If this is your PCB, You should have Continuity with matching circles.
> 
> View attachment 13941


How do you know what these go to?  The GND i understand cuz of the pot ground, buw how do you know the 10u + goes to left pot lug and those 3 other components go to middle pot lug?


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## benny_profane (Jul 22, 2021)

burger-patty-and-bacon said:


> PCB that has pads on both sides for SOME components


All Pedal PCB pads are plated through-hole. The pads are on each side of the board and the hole itself is plated.



burger-patty-and-bacon said:


> I will test those points with DMM once my new C5K pot arrives


You can test it before the pot arrives. In fact, you should test it before the pot arrives so you know if you can install it normally or if you will need to add a wire connection if the connection doesn't have continuity.



burger-patty-and-bacon said:


> How do you know what these go to?


The schematic shows the connections.


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## EGRENIER (Jul 22, 2021)

burger-patty-and-bacon said:


> How do you know what these go to?  The GND i understand cuz of the pot ground, buw how do you know the 10u + goes to left pot lug and those 3 other components go to middle pot lug?


Refer to the schematic of the build documentation.  Each component are identified and you will see what the trace does.

In your case, you will see out of the schematic the points that @music6000 identified with matching colors...


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## burger-patty-and-bacon (Jul 22, 2021)

Is it correct to assume that all 4 volume pots on this pedal should all beep when I touch their square ground pad to the GND at bottom?
Because right now the only pot that beeps when i touch the ground lug of pot to the GND hole at bottom of PCB is the A100K at top left.


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## EGRENIER (Jul 22, 2021)

burger-patty-and-bacon said:


> Is it correct to assume that all 4 volume pots on this pedal should all beep when I touch their square ground pad to the GND at bottom?
> Because right now the only pot that beeps when i touch the ground lug of pot to the GND hole at bottom of PCB is the A100K at top left.



No not all pots have a grounded lug... Take a peek at the schematic and you will see each lug where they connect next...


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## burger-patty-and-bacon (Jul 22, 2021)

There is no beep between these 2 green points, the GND and the pot.


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## benny_profane (Jul 22, 2021)

I just looked more closely at the schematic. Lug 1 of the C5K pot is left floating (it's wired as a variable resistor, not a voltage divider). It's a no connection (NC), so you're getting a correct reading.


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## burger-patty-and-bacon (Jul 22, 2021)

OK, phew!!  Thank you!  I do get a beep from GND to the top left A100K pot and of course i get beeps from ground lug of output jacks to the GND.  =)     my new booty c5k pot shows Saturday so I hope I can restore some booty back to my melter.  p.s. - i am still blown away that diff color LED's sound different.


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## EGRENIER (Jul 22, 2021)

burger-patty-and-bacon said:


> OK, phew!!  Thank you!  I do get a beep from GND to the top left A100K pot and of course i get beeps from ground lug of output jacks to the GND.  =)     my new booty c5k pot shows Saturday so I hope I can restore some booty back to my melter.  p.s. - i am still blown away that diff color LED's sound different.


About the LED colors, I won't say it's a myth because the science supports the statement, however, I watch a few youtube videos demonstrating the differences between clipping of different colors, and I couldn't see a difference.  There may be one and my ears can't hear the difference, or it's more obvious live than on a youtube video with headphones....  I dunno...

I'll make a statement to stirs things up a bit:

LED color clipping impact is like Tone wood...


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## burger-patty-and-bacon (Jul 22, 2021)

Oh, man.. do not start a tone wood thing. Yikes.  People get sensitive about that!

So, on these PCB's bought here, can I guess that they are made well enough that the traces are deeply ingrained into the board and me screwing up one of the pads is totally OK since the other pad is OK and i can see traces when looking at the top AND the bottom?


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## EGRENIER (Jul 22, 2021)

From what I understand, the pad exist on both sides however the trace are only on one of the 2 sides (traces exist on both sides).  This is why you were recommended to do connectivity testing to confirm the pad that lifted didn't break the connectivity.

Generally speaking, the boards are solids.  I'm not the best at soldering, and never lifted a pad.  From what I've seen and read, pads lift if you overheat the board or pull to hard when trying to remove a component that has not been properly de-solder (if that's a word).

When pads lift, you can always fix the issue by soldering the leg of you component to the next connection points, however in the case of of pot, you need to jump as pots connector aren't long enough...


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## burger-patty-and-bacon (Jul 22, 2021)

OK, cool.  The pots were totally my fault because I did them all backwards by mistake and then i accidentally desoldered the wrong one, and then I f'd up again so that poor BOOTY C5K pot had to come in and out 3 times and i had to buy a new one because i broke it completely.  Thanks for all the help from the forum.  My next pedal will be....

THE DIRTY SANCHEZ!


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## EGRENIER (Jul 22, 2021)

burger-patty-and-bacon said:


> OK, cool.  The pots were totally my fault because I did them all backwards by mistake and then i accidentally desoldered the wrong one, and then I f'd up again so that poor BOOTY C5K pot had to come in and out 3 times and i had to buy a new one because i broke it completely.  Thanks for all the help from the forum.  My next pedal will be....
> 
> THE DIRTY SANCHEZ!



Don't be to hard on yourself, we all mess up our builds, even the most experienced builder here still make silly mistakes and will not shy away from admitting them...

My favorite two mistakes that I can't seem to get away from are:

- Forgetting to clip the notch of the pots and wondering why the F%^&* isn't my board fitting properly in the box 
- Soldering the 3PDT breakout board upside down, even though it's written in huge letter "This Side Goes Down"


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## Feral Feline (Jul 22, 2021)

EGRENIER said:


> About the LED colors, I won't say it's a myth because the science supports the statement, however, I watch a few youtube videos demonstrating the differences between clipping of different colors, and I couldn't see a difference.  There may be one and my ears can't hear the difference, or it's more obvious live than on a youtube video with headphones....  I dunno...
> 
> I'll make a statement to stirs things up a bit:
> 
> LED color clipping impact is like Tone wood...



LED colour tonal differences may depend partly on the circuit design, probably. So you're correct, the clipping impact IS like tone wood. 🙀

😹


EGRENIER said:


> ... "This Side Goes Down"


Well that all depends on your perspective...

"Down" when the build is completed and on your pedalboard while you're rockin' out, or "Down" when you're staring at the guts in the enclosure wondering WTFudgsicle went wrong?


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## EGRENIER (Jul 22, 2021)

Feral Feline said:


> LED colour tonal differences may depend partly on the circuit design, probably. So you're correct, the clipping impact IS like tone wood. 🙀
> 
> 😹
> 
> ...



Thanks, I will use this excuse next time I make the same mistake... which is likely to be on my next build...


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## music6000 (Jul 22, 2021)

benny_profane said:


> I just looked more closely at the schematic. Lug 1 of the C5K pot is left floating (it's wired as a variable resistor, not a voltage divider). It's a no connection (NC), so you're getting a correct reading.


I was just Testing to see if Members were on their Game! 
Updated Picture above!


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## Grubb (Jul 23, 2021)

EGRENIER said:


> Don't be to hard on yourself, we all mess up our builds, even the most experienced builder here still make silly mistakes and will not shy away from admitting them...


My habitual mistake is to put the board in the enclosure and solder the DC connection before realising I have once again forgotten to attach to the board the ground wires that go to the jacks. I'm getting really good at hooking those suckers in place from underneath the board!


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## EGRENIER (Jul 23, 2021)

music6000 said:


> I was just Testing to see if Members were on their Game!
> Updated Picture above!


Well I failed, I even pulled the schematic and circled exactly the lug that was going nowhere !


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## Robert (Jul 23, 2021)

Grubb said:


> I'm getting really good at hooking those suckers in place from underneath the board!



I do all of my offboard wiring from the component side after the PCB is mounted in the enclosure.


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## Grubb (Jul 23, 2021)

Robert said:


> I do all of my offboard wiring from the component side after the PCB is mounted in the enclosure.


There you go. One man's mistake is another's modus operandi.


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## burger-patty-and-bacon (Jul 25, 2021)

GENTS.  I got my replacement C5K BOOTY pot today and I soldered it in.  the broken pad I was worried about is definitely an issue.  can anyone be so kind as to tell me where I will need to manually jumper the ground of the booty pot to on teh side that is opposite the components?


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## burger-patty-and-bacon (Jul 25, 2021)

Also seems the sizzle pot had a lifted trace...  I will for sure have to manually bridge one lug of each pot on the underside.  I will heap praise and good karma upon any who can help me fix my booty and sizzle.


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## burger-patty-and-bacon (Jul 25, 2021)

music6000 said:


> Test Updated picture for Continuity with matching circles.
> The Green circle has no connection!


Music6000. Can u please do the same for me for the a100k pot called sizzle?  Neither booty nor sizzle are changing pedal tone.


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## Mcknib (Jul 25, 2021)

Did you continuity check to confirm there's no connection

Using the schematic this is where you'd place jumpers I've just done them all obviously you'd only do the damaged one's

You will need to continuity check the components to make sure you solder your jumper to the correct side

Sizzle lug 1 solder a jumper directly to the pot lug then over to C24 side that doesn't connect to ground

Lug 2 jumper from pot lug to R35 side that doesn't connect to C17

Lug 3 pot lug to R36 side that doesn't connect to R37 / C25

Booty

Lug 1 not connected

Lug 2 from pot lug to C26 side not connected to ground you can jumper to Q1 source but I'd go C26

Lug 3 pot lug to C7 + side

I usually do it on the solder side of the pcb I'll put solder both ends of the jumper and just melt onto the component solder joint that's already there kinda like tack it on

You can if it's easier do it on the component side but you're better doing it on the solder side to avoid touching components with your iron

You can use the shop pcb image where you'll see some traces, but not all, those pads that have a faint crosshair through them connect to ground so if you zoom in and look at C24 the 100n for example left pad has it, so that's the ground side





I don't have the pcb and as I say you can't see all the traces but with a little continuity checking you'll get there just take your time 

All your actually doing is bypassing a broken trace, a trace is effectively a wire so you just replace the trashed 1 with a wire


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## Feral Feline (Jul 25, 2021)

burger-patty-and-bacon said:


> Also seems the sizzle pot had a lifted trace...  I will for sure have to manually bridge one lug of each pot on the underside.  I will heap praise and good karma upon any who can help me fix my booty and sizzle.


You mentioned that the Booty's *ground* is an issue, but _which pad of the Sizzle_ has become suspect?

You didn't list the name of the pedal in the title of the thread, nor the complete name "Face Melter" in the OP, so it took me a minute to find the correct schematic... 

As already discussed in the thread by Music6000, Booty pot's leg #1 is left floating — it has no connection ie N/C, don'wurreebowdit; leg #3 goes to C7 which in turn goes to ground. So if legs 2&3 of Booty are properly soldered (and their respective connected-components) then you're good there, but you say you're not getting any change. So something else is up with that. Once the pot is vetted, check C7 next, make sure no cold solder joints. One side of C7 should beep with ground on your DMM's continudity testes ehr tester. (whoops, must be the original circuit's influence). The other side of C7 should beep with Big Booty #3. 

Similarly, Sizzle's Schlizzle #1 should beep with C24, and the opposite side of C24 will RoadRunner with ground. Sizzle #2 & #3 and one side of both R35 and R36 should all go beepity-boppity with each other. If any one of these connections, for example #3 and at least one side of R36, don't beep, then Angelica Houston we have a probe-lemming.

That oughta keep you busy for a red-hot minute.


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## Feral Feline (Jul 25, 2021)

DOh, Mcnib beat me to the scene of the accident, by a short blonde straight one.

Mcnib has better advice, anyway.


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## burger-patty-and-bacon (Jul 25, 2021)

Mcknib said:


> Did you continuity check to confirm there's no connection
> 
> Using the schematic this is where you'd place jumpers I've just done them all obviously you'd only do the damaged one's
> 
> ...


God bless u man!  I'm at the vet with my dog and will be here for about 4 hours and will do this/try this soon as I get home.  This community is awesome.  I'm in my smartphone reading articles on how to interpret wiring schematic starting with the newbie basics.   Is LUG 1 of the potentiometer always GROUND? Whether to ground directly or thru a cap or resist and then to ground?   Thank u for the reply!!!!!!   I am on a mission to fix my melter.   I must restore booty and sizzle.  Bless u.


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## burger-patty-and-bacon (Jul 25, 2021)

Feral Feline said:


> You mentioned that the Booty's *ground* is an issue, but _which pad of the Sizzle_ has become suspect?
> 
> You didn't list the name of the pedal in the title of the thread, nor the complete name "Face Melter" in the OP, so it took me a minute to find the correct schematic...
> 
> ...


At vet for a long time today but I'm pretty sure the ground lug of sizzle is also fubar.   Neither pot changes tone.  I had to remove and reinstall them and really Fd up my board and those pads in doing so.   I cannot thank u guys enough for replying to me with the help.   I need to get home and do exactly what you pedal doctors are prescribing. 💊


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## Mcknib (Jul 25, 2021)

Feral Feline said:


> Mcnib has better advice, anyway.



That's a wild statement 

I wish my advice was more like yours good wit and a tad shorter 

I always seem to write a novel

*Chapter 2*

See I'm doing it again

I can prattle 

As my kids always say at social events.......

Please Dad don't start talking about pedals


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## Mcknib (Jul 25, 2021)

burger-patty-and-bacon said:


> Is LUG 3 of the potentiometer always GROUND? Whether to ground directly or thru a cap or resist and then to ground?   Thank u for the reply!!!!!!   I am on a mission to fix my melter.   I must restore booty and sizzle.  Bless u.


Depends on what the pots used for in this circuit only one is a voltage divider (all 3 lugs used)

Load or volume that either lets signal through turned up or dumps it to ground turned down dividing the voltage / signal by adding resistance between lug 2 and either lug 1 or 3 

So if you turned it down there would be little to no resistance between lugs 1 and 2 and following the path of least resistance all signal would get dumped to ground turn it up you'd gradually get less and less resistance between lugs 3 and 2 letting more and more signal through to the output 

The others are wired as variable resistors where only 2 lugs are used to alter resistance one booty has a lug floating the others have 2 joined together basically the same thing

If you take dirty for example put simply  it's a gain pot which varies the resistance in IC1.1 negative feedback loop more resistance = less negative feedback and more gain (I think)

Booty is bass I don't know how it works exactly but it's got larger value caps to allow bass frequencies through in combination with the pot varying resistance 

Sizzle smaller value caps = treble 

For 99.9% of pedal circuits these are the only 2 pot configurations

Reading a schematic isn't that difficult it's basically join the dots from in to out knowing what each circuit node does is a bit more difficult

Just remember your guitar signal is AC the active components in the circuit are DC powered so you want your small AC guitar signal to get from in to out be amplified, alter frequency etc caps block DC and allow your guitar AC signal to pass through them, alter high / low frequency etc in combination with resistors and other components


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## Feral Feline (Jul 25, 2021)

burger-patty-and-bacon said:


> At vet for a long time today but I'm pretty sure the ground lug of sizzle is also fubar.   Neither pot changes tone.  I had to remove and reinstall them and really Fd up my board and those pads in doing so.   I cannot thank u guys enough for replying to me with the help.   I need to get home and do exactly what you pedal doctors are prescribing. 💊


Family first, take care o' the wee doggie. Nothin' serious I hope. 

I'm no pedal doctor, not even a vet, but if you had to compare, I'd be sorta like Doctor Q, a quack.

Pics of the doggo, SVP, when you get a chance.


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## burger-patty-and-bacon (Jul 25, 2021)

I am officially back from the Vet.  $540 USD later for an infected duclaw removal on left paw, full knock-out anaesthesia, plastic cone on the head so she cant lick the thing, 2 diff meds and some ointments...   on my 8 year old shepherd/hound mix.

I am going to print out the schematic for the face melter now and go over all of these replies in great detail now that I am at my main workstation PC and can actually work the pedal.  THANK YOU FOR WRITING TO ME IN THIS THREAD.  I am concinced I can fix the pedal based on what is listed above.

here is my dog:


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## burger-patty-and-bacon (Jul 25, 2021)

Mcknib said:


> Sizzle lug 1 solder a jumper directly to the pot lug then over to C24 side that doesn't connect to ground



I am taking this in baby steps.  It is slightly tricky because certain things can be "backwards" or "upside down" in relation to which side I am looking at so I'm being mindful of this. 

When looking at Page 1 of FM PCB layout and zeroing in on the SIZZLE A100K pot:

Am I to interpret the volume pot lugs for this Sizzle A100K as 3, 2, 1 when reading LEFT to RIGHT where LUG 1 is the SQUARE PAD at the right?  If so, My Lug 1 pad HAS lifted.
 If the above is true, then LUG 1 is GND and per my very amateur reading skills of the SCHEMATIC, this LUG 1 actually feeds the "front" or "input" of C24 100n and then the "back" or "out" of C24 100n feeds the GND?
The C24 box film capacitor on Page 1 of Face Melter PCB layout is the second cap directly below the SIZZLE pot.  
When I touch the C24 side that DOES go to ground (when looking at COMPONENT SIDE this is the right of the cap) I get a BEEP.
When I touch the GROUND LUG of the SIZZLE POT to any ground, I get NO BEEP.
If what I have said thus far is all correct, then I should be able to touch the GND LUG of SIZZLE to the RIGHT SIDE of C24 cap when looking at component view and get a BEEP.  Right?  If so, I am NOT getting a beep, this is why I need to connect LUG 1 of SIZZLE directly to this C24 RIGHT side?
My amateur reading skills of schematic are not good enough to tell what LUG 2 and LUG 3 do.  Have I correctly circled what LUG 1, LUG 2 and LUG 3 are?  The schematic has a weird number between the RESISTOR and the C24, almost looks like a 12 or someone made an error?


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## burger-patty-and-bacon (Jul 25, 2021)

SIZZLE HAS BEEN FIXED!!!!!
Direct wired LUG 1 GND of SIZZLE POT to the backside of board C24 film cap to the right side of that cap when looking at component view.
Will work to fix BOOTY NOW!!!!


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## Mcknib (Jul 25, 2021)

Lug 1 isn't directly connected to ground so you won't get a beep

Lug 1 should be connected to the non ground side of C24

You're correct the PCB square pad is lug 1 on all pots

The pot lug numbers are those nearest to the pot, lug 1 with the 2 over typed on it 2 in the middle with the arrow and 3 at the top ignore the 1 near the cap


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## fig (Jul 25, 2021)

Mcknib said:


> Lug 1 isn't directly connected to ground so you won't get a beep
> 
> Lug 1 should be connected to the non ground side of C24
> 
> ...



That reminds me of Don Madden and his marker explaining a football play......_"and as you can clearly see, the quarterback got lunched!"_


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## burger-patty-and-bacon (Jul 25, 2021)

Feral Feline said:


> One side of C7 should beep with ground on your DMM's continudity testes ehr tester. (whoops, must be the original circuit's influence). The other side of C7 should beep with Big Booty #3.



On BOOTY, I was getting GROUND BEEP when touching GND to - of the C7 round cap.

I got NO BEEP when touching BOOTY LUG 3 to + of C7.

I ran a direct jumper from BOOTY LUG 3 to + of C7... and...

IT WORKS!!!!!!! I HAVE BOOTY!!  I HAVE SIZZLE AND BOOTY!!!  HALLELUJAH LORD ABOVE ALMIGHTY J.C. WITH SANDALS AND CARPENTRY.

YEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEAS!

THank you thank you thank you!!

LESSONS LEARNED:  Pay attention when putting the pots in for their orientation!  Don't ever DRILL an enclosure WHILE YOU HAVE A PCB INSIDE OF IT.


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## Mcknib (Jul 25, 2021)

Well done that man 

Easy as


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## music6000 (Jul 25, 2021)

burger-patty-and-bacon said:


> On BOOTY, I was getting GROUND BEEP when touching GND to - of the C7 round cap.
> 
> I got NO BEEP when touching BOOTY LUG 3 to + of C7.
> 
> ...


It's 6.20 am here in Australia as I write, Congrats for getting the PCB fired up & looking after your Dog.
I have a 3 year old English Staffy & his name is Max.
12 months ago, he swallowed a piece of plastic on a farm & it cost Five Thousand Dollars to remove it & medication.
He is my Best Mate & I would do anything to make sure he is right!!!


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## burger-patty-and-bacon (Jul 25, 2021)

music6000 said:


> It's 6.20 am here in Australia as I write, Congrats for getting the PCB fired up & looking after your Dog.
> I have a 3 year old English Staffy & his name is Max.
> 12 months ago, he swallowed a piece of plastic on a farm & it cost Five Thousand Dollars to remove it & medication.
> He is my Best Mate & I would do anything to make sure he is right!!!


Good on ya, mate.  Glad your boy is ok!   Dogs are amazing buddies and u gotta do what has to be done.   I have hens here for eggs and my dogs like to scratch at the coop and they are always effing up their paws.   

THANK U TO EVERYONE FOR THE HELP.  AMAZING LEARNING EXPERIENCE!!!!!!    Dirty Sanchez is up next and then #3 will be the Plumes.   (Yes, I like dirt and OD and gain).

Thank you!!!!!!!! 👌👌👌👌👌👌👍👍👍👍👍👍


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## Feral Feline (Jul 26, 2021)

She's a beaut! What's your dog's name? 

Glad to hear she's sorted, and the pedal's sorted, too. 

@music6000 Equally glad to hear Max has mended, too. Quite an ordeal for Max, and for you.


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## Grubb (Jul 26, 2021)

burger-patty-and-bacon said:


> I got NO BEEP when touching BOOTY


Have you seen a doctor about this?


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## burger-patty-and-bacon (Jul 26, 2021)

Feral Feline said:


> She's a beaut! What's your dog's name?
> 
> Glad to hear she's sorted, and the pedal's sorted, too.
> 
> @music6000 Equally glad to hear Max has mended, too. Quite an ordeal for Max, and for you.


Her name is Charlee.  She is not happy at all about having to wear this massive plastic cone to stop her from licking the wound.

THANKS AGAIN FOR ALL THE HELP, LADS!


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## EGRENIER (Jul 26, 2021)

All my dogs have to wear a cone once in their life, I get them all spade or neutered, so there no if and but about it.

However, there is nothing funnier than a 10 month old pup with a cone.  Not only that they are already not fully coordinated, but put a cone on and suddenly they bang the cone everywhere... Best time of my life.. not theirs 

Your dog will get used of the cone, my experience is one over night and after that they just ignore it...

Well done on you pedal, I was not online when the last steps of your troubleshooting happened... sorry for that !


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