# Missing Build Docs / Schematics



## Robert

Okay, there is about to be an influx of new projects...... but I want to tie up any loose ends first.

Is anyone waiting on any missing build docs / schematics?   (Not including the most recent releases, those are already on my list)


----------



## temol

Not that I need it, but there's still no schematic for the Malachite


----------



## Robert

temol said:


> Not that I need it, but there's still no schematic for the Malachite



Perfect, it's been added now.


----------



## Ralfg

I visit the site frequently to look at schematics and get ideas and learn from them. So every schematic is good .

I would love to see the schematic for the Blue Shoe Gui Pan and the Bastion.


----------



## Robusto

Robert said:


> Okay, there is about to be an influx of new projects...... but I want to tie up any loose ends first.
> 
> Is anyone waiting on any missing build docs / schematics?   (Not including the most recent releases, those are already on my list)




Windmill, Prince Albert, Crimson Drive, Mouton Fuzz, Carmine Overdrive...honestly there's probably more I'm forgetting.

Are docs going to become a thing of the past? It's nice to have the values printed right on the PCB, but I also like to have the schematic and most importantly the drill template. Tried using a similar template for a recent project because there was no build doc, and it came out spaced wrong.


----------



## Robert

Robusto said:


> Are docs going to become a thing of the past?



No, not at all.    The values on the PCB are a convenience, but they don't take the place of the docs.


----------



## jjjimi84

Robert said:


> Okay, there is about to be an influx of new projects...... but I want to tie up any loose ends first.
> 
> Is anyone waiting on any missing build docs / schematics?   (Not including the most recent releases, those are already on my list)



What I am reading is I should hold off on my next order.....

Sweet.


----------



## Robert

We're still looking at a few weeks, but maybe.


----------



## Robert

All build docs except for the 6-Band EQ should be posted now.

Working on that one next.


----------



## Dali

Robert said:


> The values on the PCB are a convenience, but they don't take the place of the docs.




Convenience? Are you crazy? 

I LOVE that!


----------



## Bobbyd67

I know the thorpyfx stuff didn't have schematics but having read your post on the madbeans forums I believe it's by design


----------



## Elijah-Baley

I guess it's been a while we still don't have the XB-MB Boost schematic. I don't really need it, but I'd like to see it if you will. Thought I guess I can't imagine what's the Mid pot is.
Thanks!


----------



## untamedfrontier

Abider schematic would be nice


----------



## Robert

untamedfrontier said:


> Abider schematic would be nice



Done.


----------



## dmnCrawler

I know this would be a lot of work but would it be possible to get the control labels on the drill templates. I have trouble with a lot of pedals knowing how to label the controls on the enclosure. A good example is the Obsidius Preamp. I can figure out the potentiometers from their values. But grunt and attack is not obvious unless it is printed on the PCB. Even worse I have no way of telling hot to label the positions of the switches. Being new to this I do not know what raw/thin/fat means so I can't tell on the board or in the schematic which position is which. 

Just an idea of how to get a better idea and understanding of the label. I have gotten wrong on a few times already.


----------



## Dali

dmnCrawler said:


> but would it be possible to get the control labels on the drill templates. I have trouble with a lot of pedals knowing how to label the controls on the enclosure. A good example is the Obsidius Preamp.



Try the Super Heterodyne for a wild ride... I was lucky many people already put pictures of their build so I could double-check everything.


----------



## Kroars

Robert said:


> No, not at all.    The values on the PCB are a convenience, but they don't take the place of the docs.


The values on the pcb are one of a few reasons why I only shop with PedalPCB.  It’s a huge convenience!


----------



## ScottVA

What happened to the Kliche Clean?  Last I saw it was a wait list item.


----------



## Robert

ScottVA said:


> What happened to the Kliche Clean?  Last I saw it was a wait list item.



I'll bring it back soon.     It can be built on the standard Kliche Mini PCB, so when that layout was updated I just never revisited it.

I'll get them in the next restock.


----------



## RobinMallard

The Leprechaun still says that the schematic is coming soon. Thanks!


----------



## Flying

I'm guessing we wont be seeing the schematics for the King’s Hand and  Lone King overdrives?


----------



## cooder

Flying said:


> I'm guessing we wont be seeing the schematics for the King’s Hand and  Lone King overdrives?


Wondering about those too....


----------



## spi

cooder said:


> Wondering about those too....


+1


----------



## Robert

Flying said:


> I'm guessing we wont be seeing the schematics for the King’s Hand and  Lone King overdrives?



They'll all eventually be posted.


----------



## Flying

That’s good news, being in Europe I have to choose between a kit, or buying from you directly, but that is likely to incur the ‘administration’ fee the post office puts on top of the VAT they collect, and the postage is the same price as the PCB,  so I like to breadboard the design first to see if it’s a curiosity or a must have.


----------



## cmcook22

I see the Lone King build docs are now posted.  While working on my graphics and overlaying the drill template, seems that the Voice switch is off. On the template, the switch is centered with all 4 knobs.  On the PCB, it's off center, towards the top.  Am I not looking at the layout correctly?

Second question - I also have the Kings Hand PCB and was planning on putting them both in the same enclosure.  Would sharing the power supply and running the out of the Lone King into the Input of the Kings Hand cause any issues?  Neither of these should have too much of a current draw, both running same voltage and one into the other with true bypass, shouldn't be a problem combining them into the same box right?


----------



## Robert

cmcook22 said:


> I see the Lone King build docs are now posted.  While working on my graphics and overlaying the drill template, seems that the Voice switch is off. On the template, the switch is centered with all 4 knobs.  On the PCB, it's off center, towards the top.  Am I not looking at the layout correctly?



I believe you are correct, I'll get it corrected in just a bit.


----------



## spi

cmcook22 said:


> I see the Lone King build docs are now posted.  While working on my graphics and overlaying the drill template, seems that the Voice switch is off. On the template, the switch is centered with all 4 knobs.  On the PCB, it's off center, towards the top.  Am I not looking at the layout correctly?
> 
> Second question - I also have the Kings Hand PCB and was planning on putting them both in the same enclosure.  Would sharing the power supply and running the out of the Lone King into the Input of the Kings Hand cause any issues?  Neither of these should have too much of a current draw, both running same voltage and one into the other with true bypass, shouldn't be a problem combining them into the same box right?


I think your pots are not oriented correctly.  If you arrange them so the shaft are above the holes in the board, then the swtich will be in the middle.


----------



## cmcook22

Not sure I'm following your suggestion. Lining the pots with shaft over the hole still leaves the center lug of the switch (equiv of being straight up in the center position) spaced too far up.


----------



## Robert

cmcook22 said:


> Not sure I'm following your suggestion.


A lot of times people think the drill template isn't aligned correctly because looking at the PCB the toggle switch isn't in line with the pots (because of the 16mm vertical offset of the pot shaft).

In this case, however, you are correct.   The toggle switch should be in line with the bottom row of pots.


----------



## spi

cmcook22 said:


> Not sure I'm following your suggestion. Lining the pots with shaft over the hole still leaves the center lug of the switch (equiv of being straight up in the center position) spaced too far up.


 
Sorry, I wasn't clear.  By "above the holes" I meant it should be oriented with the pins lined with the holes and the shaft of the pot above:





But as PedalPCB points out, when doing this the switch is in between the lower knobs.    (Also, my drawing is not to scale, I'm guessing if it were, then the center of the pot shaft would align with the center of the switch?)


----------



## Robert

Yep, that's correct.   On this one the switch is aligned with the shafts of the bottom row of pots.


----------



## cooder

I'd be keen to see the Fuzz Foundry Deluxe schematic please because I'd like to understand how the switching between the transistors works out.


----------



## Robert

Lone King build doc pdf has been updated with the correct drill template.

Hopefully this hasn't caused any trouble.


----------



## cmcook22

No trouble at all, thank you for updating it so quickly!  Are there any updates as to when the Kings Hand build docs will be available?  The intention is to put them into the same enclosure.  Or are there plans to combine these two into a single PCB at some point? If so, i'll build Hand / Lone separately.


----------



## Robert

cmcook22 said:


> No trouble at all, thank you for updating it so quickly!  Are there any updates as to when the Kings Hand build docs will be available?  The intention is to put them into the same enclosure.  Or are there plans to combine these two into a single PCB at some point? If so, i'll build Hand / Lone separately.


I'll get it posted as quick as possible.

There will be a combined PCB at some point, no ETA yet though.


----------



## Thewhisperer

Hi, may we have the schematics in the building doc?
I am very interested in the designs : )


----------



## Nrgaposok

Another big PPCB fan here eagerly awaiting the King's Hand build docs ?


----------



## FancyEspresso

Nrgaposok said:


> Another big PPCB fan here eagerly awaiting the King's Hand build docs ?


And terrarium!!


----------



## Dali

FancyEspresso said:


> And terrarium!!



You know it's quite exciting to see: *Category: **ElectroSmith Daisy*

Because more models could happen and they hinted about a Daisy development board... Exciting time!


----------



## Kenit91

Just saw the updated Delegate (boneyard) compressor is now available. Can we please have the build docs?

And I'm seeing you don't have the LDR in stock at the moment, would this work?









						Photo cell 5k-10k, 0,2M, 0,45
					

Photo cell, diameter 5mm Light resistance: 5k-10k Dark resistance: 0,2M




					www.musikding.de
				




The light resistance is equal to what is needed, but the dark resistance is 200k instead of 500k.

Thanks!


----------



## Chuck D. Bones

It will still work, but you will get less sustain with 200K dark resistance.  More important is response time.  How long does it take to get up to 200K?


----------



## Kenit91

Well I haven't built it yet, but you're the expert here  so I should aim higher to get the most sustain? And the light resistance plays no role here? Next best thing on musikding would be:

Light resistance: 8k-20k
Dark resistance: 1M


----------



## Chuck D. Bones

That might work better.  Light resistance does play a role, you need it to be 10K or lower.  If you don't use the LDR called out in the Delegate BOM, then you are rolling the dice.  Given the issues people on this forum have had with parts from Musikding, I cannot recommend them. YMMV.


----------



## zgrav

and you can also put in a vactrol with good results, like the vtl5c9 that smallbear carries. Not a cheap part, but a good fit for the upgraded version of the Warden that Chuck put together.


----------



## cooder

Chuck D. Bones said:


> That might work better.  Light resistance does play a role, you need it to be 10K or lower.  If you don't use the LDR called out in the Delegate BOM, then you are rolling the dice.  Given the issues people on this forum have had with parts from Musikding, I cannot recommend them. YMMV.


.... someone else here keen to see the build doc... just sayin...


----------



## zgrav

the forum posts from Chuck have all the secrets including the marked-up schematic.  : ^ )


----------



## cooder

zgrav said:


> the forum posts from Chuck have all the secrets including the marked-up schematic.  : ^ )


Cheers, I wasn't sure if there's more 'secrets' to be found in upcoming build doc, I'll check back at that post.


----------



## Chuck D. Bones

There is one new "secret" to be found in the Build docs.


----------



## cooder

Chuck D. Bones said:


> There is one new "secret" to be found in the Build docs.


I love surprises and suspense... if it doesn't take too long to find out...


----------



## Chuck D. Bones

There are two optional red LEDs in parallel with the LDR.  They are there to keep the 1st stage from saturating during the attack when SUSTAIN is cranked up.  I used them in one compressor and they reduce the pop.  If you like the pop, or slow ATTACK settings, then leave them out.


----------



## cooder

Chuck D. Bones said:


> There are two optional red LEDs in parallel with the LDR.  They are there to keep the 1st stage from saturating during the attack when SUSTAIN is cranked up.  I used them in one compressor and they reduce the pop.  If you like the pop, or slow ATTACK settings, then leave them out.


I was wondering about those as I saw them on the layout pic... cheers for the heads up.


----------



## Kenit91

Chuck D. Bones said:


> That might work better.  Light resistance does play a role, you need it to be 10K or lower.  If you don't use the LDR called out in the Delegate BOM, then you are rolling the dice.  Given the issues people on this forum have had with parts from Musikding, I cannot recommend them. YMMV.


Yeah I've had some hit and misses from them before, but being from Europe I do save a bit on shipping at least. I'll try to source the GL5516 from somewhere else, unless pedalpcb stocks it up again. Thanks a lot for the circuit and your help!


----------



## benny_profane

Chuck D. Bones said:


> There are two optional red LEDs in parallel with the LDR.  They are there to keep the 1st stage from saturating during the attack when SUSTAIN is cranked up.  I used them in one compressor and they reduce the pop.  If you like the pop, or slow ATTACK settings, then leave them out.


Do they operate as a type of threshold indicator?


----------



## moonlightpedalbuilds

In the Abider Doc

Does the PCB Image on the doc match the actual PCB? C26 470n but the pcb photo shows an electrolytic. Image on the website is also different from one on the doc.


----------



## Barry

moonlightpedalbuilds said:


> In the Abider Doc
> 
> Does the PCB Image on the doc match the actual PCB? C26 470n but the pcb photo shows an electrolytic. Image on the website is also different from one on the doc.
> 
> View attachment 7704


I always go with what's printed on the board itself, that's usually the final version after all the tweaking's been done
Edit: I think there was one exception to that recently, but for the most part it holds true


----------



## Robert

Yes, the PCB matches the build doc, but as Barry said, you should follow what is printed on your PCB.  _Never_ follow the preview image on the product page.

470n is the same as 0.47uF
Printing the value in nF takes up less space, also the silkscreen text is so small that the decimal could be overlooked.


----------



## moonlightpedalbuilds

Robert said:


> Yes, the PCB matches the build doc, but as Barry said, you should follow what is printed on your PCB.  _Never_ follow the preview image on the product page.
> 
> 470n is the same as 0.47uF
> Printing the value in nF takes up less space, also the silkscreen text is so small that the decimal could be overlooked.


I’m about to order the board and gathering parts. How do I differentiate electrolytics and film caps using the doc? In this case, what you are saying is that C26 is a 0.47uF electrolytic cap.


----------



## BuddytheReow

moonlightpedalbuilds said:


> I’m about to order the board and gathering parts. How do I differentiate electrolytics and film caps using the doc? In this case, what you are saying is that C26 is a 0.47uF electrolytic cap.


Cross reference using the board pic. Sometimes the value itself is a dead giveaway.


----------



## ADAOCE

Southern belle build docs?


----------



## grudzy

Underminer Sub-Octave synth build docs?


----------



## acenterforants

Carbon Black build docs still pending... just FYI


----------



## wgmccc

Please tell, when will the Caesar / Julia scheme be available?


----------



## Robert

wgmccc said:


> Please tell, when will the Caesar / Julia scheme be available?


As soon as all of the pending build docs are posted I'll focus back on adding schematics.


----------



## VWBug5000

Robert said:


> As soon as all of the pending build docs are posted I'll focus back on adding schematics.


ETA on the Delegate (Boneyard) build docs? Trying to order all the parts before my boards get here in a few days


----------



## Robert

VWBug5000 said:


> ETA on the Delegate (Boneyard) build docs? Trying to order all the parts before my boards get here in a few days



https://docs.pedalpcb.com/project/Delegate-Boneyard.pdf
This is just a preliminary doc in the old format, but everything you need to know should be there.   (parts list, layout, schematic, drill template, etc)


----------



## Danbieranowski

Any word on the Carbon Black build docs? Also Pipe Stretcher.


----------



## Nostradoomus

Danbieranowski said:


> Any word on the Carbon Black build docs? Also Pipe Stretcher.



What do you need to know? I’ve built a few carbon blacks


----------



## Danbieranowski

Nostradoomus said:


> What do you need to know? I’ve built a few carbon blacks


Ah thanks! Is there anything I need to know other than what’s on the board? And what is the trimmer used for?


----------



## Nostradoomus

Definitely use 2n3903 if you can find some (I got em from Mouser), I tried lots of other lower gain transistors but these are just right (Hfe hovering around 105-115) The trimmer is a bias pot, nothing too fancy!


----------



## Danbieranowski

Nostradoomus said:


> Definitely use 2n3903 if you can find some (I got em from Mouser), I tried lots of other lower gain transistors but these are just right (Hfe hovering around 105-115) The trimmer is a bias pot, nothing too fancy!


and do you just bias to taste?


----------



## Nostradoomus

Yep!


----------



## Betty Wont

Underminer and Thunder Pipe please.


----------



## Bucksears

I'd settle for the Complex OD drill template at this point.


----------



## dmnCrawler

This should work for the Complex Overdrive.

Edit:
Had the switch on the wrong side.


----------



## dmnCrawler

Complex Overdrive, Pipe Stretcher, Carbon Black and 6 band EQ potentiometer build docs are up.

Currently coming soon:
- Super Ocelot*
- Sandspur Fuzz
- Station Wah*
- Bellum Fuzz*
- Nucleus Overdrive
- Underminer Sub-Octave
- Dark Esbat Boost
- Blues Lawyer Overdrive
- Thunder Pipe Fuzz
- Valve Stem Overdrive
- Incredible Machine Distortion

* Not currently available


----------



## Chuck D. Bones

"schematic coming soon..."


----------



## cooder

Keep breathing... keep the blood pressure low...


----------



## Robert

Chuck D. Bones said:


> "schematic coming soon..."



Try it now.


----------



## Chuck D. Bones




----------



## TheMoonTotem

Ceasar schematic please! 🤗🤗🤗


----------



## caiofilipini

Quick question about the Covert build docs: I recently built it and it sounds great, but the layout on the board looks different and a few values don't match the docs. I followed the board, but out of curiosity, are those updates going to make it to the docs as well?


----------



## JackOnFire

If you could upload the Chickenhead PDF it would be very much appreciated!


----------



## Robert

JackOnFire said:


> If you could upload the Chickenhead PDF it would be very much appreciated!



You should be able to download it now.


----------



## Robert

caiofilipini said:


> Quick question about the Covert build docs: I recently built it and it sounds great, but the layout on the board looks different and a few values don't match the docs. I followed the board, but out of curiosity, are those updates going to make it to the docs as well?



You did the right thing.   I'll look into updating the docs ASAP.


----------



## caiofilipini

Robert said:


> You did the right thing.   I'll look into updating the docs ASAP.



Thank you!


----------



## JackOnFire

Robert said:


> You should be able to download it now.


Thank you!


----------



## craigargh

I spent yesterday putting together a schematic for the Actual Overdrive Jr. Other than the additional switches, the schematic and values are pretty much identical to a regular tube screamer. Most other tube screamer clones at least change the component values.


----------



## sgr1

Can you update the Duocast build docs? It looks like the new board replaced the D5 diode with a 1n5817 instead of a 15V.  Also the position on the PCB was relocated. I soldered in a 1n5817 because I decided to trust what was printed in the PCB rather than the build docs.


----------



## Robert

craigargh said:


> Can you update the Duocast build docs? It looks like the new board replaced the D5 diode with a 1n5817 instead of a 15V.  Also the position on the PCB was relocated. I soldered in a 1n5817 because I decided to trust what was printed in the PCB rather than the build docs.



Yep, I'll get it taken care of.

The PCB is correct, so you did the right thing.


----------



## SimonS

Any chance of the Leprechaun schematic?  I'm trying to trouble shoot mine.


----------



## DGWVI

SimonS said:


> Any chance of the Leprechaun schematic?  I'm trying to trouble shoot mine.


----------



## BeeSharp

kings hand and lone king where missing schematics last I checked.  Thanks for all the hard work!


----------



## ALPCDMD

Unchained and Red Herring parts list please. Thanks!


----------



## okstateblues

Is the blues lawyer ready for posting?


----------



## dgrainger

Got one ready for the pendulum,  yet?


----------



## dawson

I could really use a schematic for the Hydra Delay- I'm having an issue I'd like to probe.

Thanks!


----------



## jalmince

Robert said:


> Okay, there is about to be an influx of new projects...... but I want to tie up any loose ends first.
> 
> Is anyone waiting on any missing build docs / schematics?   (Not including the most recent releases, those are already on my list)


Yes I am! I wish I could have a look at the schematics of terrarium.( looked over the forum but could not manage to find it..)
King regards
Jpaul


----------



## wgmccc

Please i need Caesar / Julia scheme....


----------



## peccary

Underminer Sub Octave build docs are not up, and the component values aren't on the image. Thanks, dude!


----------



## cbriere36

Gunshot schematics please 🙏


----------



## music6000

cbriere36 said:


> Gunshot schematics please 🙏


I believe there's an agreement not to list schematics for these circuits with Builder.


----------



## brejna

ALPCDMD said:


> Unchained and Red Herring parts list please. Thanks!


Seems like unchained is cm plexitone with low mid/bass control and buffer.


----------



## spi

dgrainger said:


> Got one ready for the pendulum,  yet?


+1


----------



## Billyhank

Any updates on the Dark Esbat docs? At least a drill template. I can read the board for components.


----------



## DGWVI

Any chance we could get the Underminer buil doc, or at least the schematic?


----------



## Cybercow

Will the Ocelot schematic become available soon?


----------



## kalebk2204

Dark esbat boost build docs?


----------



## tcpoint

Build docs for Nucleus Overdrive and Shrapnel Overdrive?


----------



## Robert

I started on the Nucleus this morning, I believe the Shrapnel is next in line.


----------



## Paradox916

Does that mean the Valhalla will be back in stock soon?


----------



## Robert

Yes, they're on the way.


----------



## Robert

Nucleus Build Doc
Nucleus Interactive BOM


----------



## untamedfrontier

Robert said:


> Nucleus Build Doc
> Nucleus Interactive BOM


The interactive BOM is SICK!


----------



## jubal81

untamedfrontier said:


> The interactive BOM is SICK!


Yeah, wow. That's next level stuff.


----------



## beachbum

I'm doing an order for some other pedals, is it possible to get the BOM for the two pro-10 boards / protein pedal?

Thanks!


----------



## r.callison

So idk if this has been addressed yet, but I'm kinda miffed cause I just drilled the enclosures for 2 minnows, and the drill template has one LED instead of 2. I'll take half the fault for not planning ahead there.


----------



## zgrav

Maybe the drill template is wrong.  sure looks like there is a status LED and a rate LED on the lower corners of the PCB and the pedal has a speed control.


----------



## r.callison

zgrav said:


> Maybe the drill template is wrong.  sure looks like there is a status LED and a rate LED on the lower corners of the PCB and the pedal has a speed control.


Yeah, I can see that on the PCB. I can also see that there is a singleLED hole on the drill template. That the drill template is wrong is why I'm posting in this thread.


----------



## Robert

The drill template has been updated, I apologize for the mix-up.    

This was originally going to use a single RGB LED but the plan was scrapped at the last minute.


----------



## peccary

untamedfrontier said:


> The interactive BOM is SICK!



It took my deuteranopia'd ass like 5 minutes of playing around with it to realize what was happening


----------



## cooder

untamedfrontier said:


> The interactive BOM is SICK!


I maybe old fashioned but I still like a printed out BOM with schematic that I can throw on the workbench rather than messing around with computer on workbench.


----------



## Robert

The interactive BOM is just an added bonus, it'd never take the place of the standard PDF.


----------



## Gordo

Interactive BOM is pretty slick


----------



## Cucurbitam0schata

i'd even say, the new BOM is da bomb.


----------



## Dan0h

I agree. That html BOM is the BOMb! So much helpful info. How the hell did you code this thing? Great work either way. Makes me want to build more pedals. Although, I would still have the paper PDF on hand as I refuse to let go of my pencil.


----------



## wgmccc

Thanks for Julia/Caesar. You are so cosmic\light fast! (sarcasm)


----------



## Pcsontos

spi said:


> +1


Please could you upload the schematics of the Pendulum tremolo.
 Thanks you in advance.


----------



## Jbanks

For the Bellum fuzz silkscreen it says *27k* 

any idea what the asterisks are for? Socket?


----------



## Robert

Some versions of the original omit the 27K resistor and the pair of GE diodes on the right-hand side of the board.


----------



## Kroars

Shrapnel build docs pretty please?


----------



## caiofilipini

Robert said:


> You did the right thing.   I'll look into updating the docs ASAP.


Another quick question about the Covert, @PedalPCB: I built one a couple months ago and the board didn't match the docs; I have two other Covert boards here, and as I was about to start building a new one, I realized these two spare boards do match the docs. So the question is: which version of the board is correct, the one that matches the docs or the one that doesn't?

I just compared my build against a real DLS MKIII and mine has significantly less gain (both in Super Lead mode, both running 18V), which is what led me into looking into it again.


----------



## DGWVI

Y'all got any of them schematics for the Caesar and Pendulum?


----------



## caiofilipini

caiofilipini said:


> Another quick question about the Covert, @PedalPCB: I built one a couple months ago and the board didn't match the docs; I have two other Covert boards here, and as I was about to start building a new one, I realized these two spare boards do match the docs. So the question is: which version of the board is correct, the one that matches the docs or the one that doesn't?
> 
> I just compared my build against a real DLS MKIII and mine has significantly less gain (both in Super Lead mode, both running 18V), which is what led me into looking into it again.



Any thoughts on this one, @PedalPCB? Thanks!


----------



## ddavis20341

Any chance of getting a schematic for the King's Hand build? I don't know if there is any agreement in place about not posting schematics (the Lone King also doesn't have one, so I'm guessing yes....)


----------



## Shndashma

Valve Stem Overdrive build doc please


----------



## LuckytheMonster

dmnCrawler said:


> Complex Overdrive, Pipe Stretcher, Carbon Black and 6 band EQ potentiometer build docs are up.
> 
> Currently coming soon:
> - Super Ocelot*
> - Sandspur Fuzz
> - Station Wah*
> - Bellum Fuzz*
> - Nucleus Overdrive
> - Underminer Sub-Octave
> - Dark Esbat Boost
> - Blues Lawyer Overdrive
> - Thunder Pipe Fuzz
> - Valve Stem Overdrive
> - Incredible Machine Distortion
> 
> * Not currently available


Any estimate on when the Bellum build docs will be back up? I bought both versions and then noticed the build docs had been taken down.


----------



## jpier2012

Box and All EQ build doc?? I got it boxed up, super simple build, but I cannot for the life of me figure out why I'm not getting sound. Just looking to trace the signal path since the op amp voltages are correct and I can't find any ground shorts.


----------



## dmnCrawler

I know some are not out yet and some are being updated but this was from March 8, 2021 at 9:35PM EST.

I still can't wait for The Creamery Compressor.


[Bellum Fuzz MKII](https://www.pedalpcb.com/product/pcb381/)Death By Audio Fuzz War IIPCB381**Build docs coming soon...**[Binaura Stereo FV-1 Platform](https://www.pedalpcb.com/product/pcb327/)Stereo FV-1 Multi-EffectsPCB327**Build docs coming soon...**[Box and All EQ](https://www.pedalpcb.com/product/pcb384/)EQD Tone JobPCB384**Build docs coming soon...**[Chauffeur Overdrive](https://www.pedalpcb.com/product/pcb387/)Shnobel Tone Daily Driver OverdrivePCB387**Build docs coming soon...**[Dirty Sanchez OD](https://www.pedalpcb.com/product/dirtysanchez/)Friedman Dirty ShirleyPCB043**Build docs coming soon...**[El Sol Distortion](https://www.pedalpcb.com/product/pcb385/)EQD Acapulco Gold®PCB385**Build docs coming soon...**[Fuzz Captain](https://www.pedalpcb.com/product/pcb380/)MI Audio GI FuzzPCB380**Build docs coming soon...**[Hatchet Overdrive](https://www.pedalpcb.com/product/pcb389/)Greer Tomahawk Deluxe DrivePCB389**Build docs coming soon...**[Intelligent DPDT Relay Module](https://www.pedalpcb.com/product/pcb396/)Relay Bypass ModulePCB396**Build docs coming soon...**[Pro-10 Blue Overdrive](https://www.pedalpcb.com/product/pcb382/)Browne Amplification Protein Pedal (Blue Channel)PCB382**Build docs coming soon...**[Pro-10 Green Overdrive](https://www.pedalpcb.com/product/pcb383/)Browne Amplification Protein Pedal (Green Channel)PCB383**Build docs coming soon...**[Sandspur Fuzz](https://www.pedalpcb.com/product/pcb378/)Analogman Sunface BC108PCB378**Build docs coming soon...**[Shrapnel Overdrive](https://www.pedalpcb.com/product/pcb379/)ThorpyFX Gunshot ODPCB379**Build docs coming soon...**[Simple Relay Bypass (Latching)](https://www.pedalpcb.com/product/pcb394/)Relay Bypass ModulePCB394**Build docs coming soon...**[Simple Relay Bypass](https://www.pedalpcb.com/product/pcb393/)Relay Bypass ModulePCB393**Build docs coming soon...**[Station Wah](https://www.pedalpcb.com/product/pcb377/)Fixed WahPCB377**Build docs coming soon...**[Sugarbag Overdrive](https://www.pedalpcb.com/product/pcb370/)Beetronics Fat BeePCB370**Build docs coming soon...**[The Creamery Compressor](https://www.pedalpcb.com/product/creamery/)DOD FX84 Milk BoxPCB301**Build docs coming soon...**[Thunder Pipe Fuzz](https://www.pedalpcb.com/product/pcb349/)Blackout Effectors Blunderbuss FuzzPCB349**Build docs coming soon...**[Valhalla Distortion](https://www.pedalpcb.com/product/valhalla/)Diezel VH4PCB045**Build docs coming soon...**[Valve Stem Overdrive](https://www.pedalpcb.com/product/pcb343/)MI Audio Tube ZonePCB343**Build docs coming soon...**


----------



## Thestorm22

Pro-10 Blue Overdrive​


----------



## FancyEspresso

Any chance we can get a drill layout for tayda for the MDMA overdrive? Just finished it today and the knobs are too narrow to fit in the typical 5-knob type 1 enclosure


----------



## ortensie

Please, considering adding schematics and upgrading the documentation for the Hydra. One can't build a pedal by "presuming" where the connections should go since even the existing documentation does not help at all. 
Thanks!


----------



## zgrav

ortensie said:


> Please, considering adding schematics and upgrading the documentation for the Hydra. One can't build a pedal by "presuming" where the connections should go since even the existing documentation does not help at all.
> Thanks!


You can usually _*build*_ a pedal using the parts printed on the PCB.  Testing a pedal that is not working is much harder without a schematic.


----------



## spi

I'm looking forward to seeing the BOM for the Hatchet Overdrive.


----------



## SYLV9ST9R

Shndashma said:


> Valve Stem Overdrive build doc please


+1  Would very like the docs and the drill guide.


----------



## Loxton

FancyEspresso said:


> Any chance we can get a drill layout for tayda for the MDMA overdrive? Just finished it today and the knobs are too narrow to fit in the typical 5-knob type 1 enclosure


Use the standard 4 knob type and drill a hole for the switch.
*





						Search results for: 'PedalPCB 4 Knob Type 1'
					






					www.taydaelectronics.com
				



*


----------



## Barry

FancyEspresso said:


> Any chance we can get a drill layout for tayda for the MDMA overdrive? Just finished it today and the knobs are too narrow to fit in the typical 5-knob type 1 enclosure


Probably best drill it yourself


----------



## Elijah-Baley

ortensie said:


> Please, considering adding schematics and upgrading the documentation for the Hydra. One can't build a pedal by "presuming" where the connections should go since even the existing documentation does not help at all.
> Thanks!


I'd like to read the Hydra Delay schematic, too. I never build it, but I would like, because I want to build some modern delay/reverb effect with the FV-1. So, reading the schematic will help me to understand how that chip works and how I could modify the original schematic. The Bonnar Mult-head Drum Echo, the pedal who inspired the Hydra, have some more options like a delay tone control, an input control, and some internal switch for the Trails mode, that keeps the effect on after the bypass while the delay decayment.
An inner switch to change the impedance from 1M to 47k for a darker sound, and a second footswitch to pass from delay to a sort of reverb mode.

Is the original more complicated than the PedalPCB one?


----------



## Robert

The Hydra isn't based on the Boonar.     They do similar things, but it's not in any way a clone.

The Hydra is a multi-head delay, it does not attempt to recreate the preamp portion of the Echorec.


----------



## Elijah-Baley

Ok, I was wrong.


----------



## Robert

I've sent you the schematic via PM.    

I'll get it added to the build docs as soon as possible... that one is an older one in Adobe InDesign format (which I no longer have) so it'll have to be completely reworked.


----------



## zgrav

Robert said:


> I've sent you the schematic via PM.
> 
> I'll get it added to the build docs as soon as possible... that one is an older one in Adobe InDesign format (which I no longer have) so it'll have to be completely reworked.


maybe you can cut and paste a screen shot of the adobe schematic into the build doc.


----------



## Robert

The schematic isn't the problem, it's the build doc that's in InDesign format.


----------



## zgrav

Robert said:


> The schematic isn't the problem, it's the build doc that's in InDesign format.


why not just list the schematic separately on the page with the old build doc?  I think that would satisfy everyone.


----------



## Robert

That'll work until I get around to updating the docs.



			http://www.pedalpcb.com/docs/PedalPCB-Hydra-Schematic.jpg


----------



## peccary

I wasn't sure where else to put this but this seemed like a close enough place: the image on the main page for the HAARP is an old version. I must have spent like two minutes looking at the image to see where the 1p8t fit in before I opened up the build docs


----------



## zgrav

FYI  -- for existing build doc corrections -- the pendulum tremolo drill guide has the labels for the input and output jacks reversed (at least compared to other layouts)


----------



## finebyfine

Robert said:


> I've sent you the schematic via PM.
> 
> I'll get it added to the build docs as soon as possible... that one is an older one in Adobe InDesign format (which I no longer have) so it'll have to be completely reworked.



I use indesign all the time - I know it doesn't play well with other publishing software but if you ever need one looked at I'm happy to help.

Is the Antithesis fuzz a standard 4-knob type-1 layout?


----------



## Robert

Yep.   I'm working on the docs for that one now, it has alternate parts for the Silicon / Germanium versions.


----------



## Robert

zgrav said:


> FYI  -- for existing build doc corrections -- the pendulum tremolo drill guide has the labels for the input and output jacks reversed (at least compared to other layouts)



Since we're not trying to revolutionize the layout of pedalboards I've corrected the labels in the drill template.      Thanks for pointing that out.  

Antithesis build doc is up now.


----------



## finebyfine

Robert said:


> Since we're not trying to revolutionize the layout of pedalboards I've corrected the labels in the drill template.      Thanks for pointing that out.
> 
> Antithesis build doc is up now.


sooo excited for the antithesis. i'm not super up on boutique-y pedals so it took me a second but finding out the original is based on the harmonic percolator made me pull the trigger instantly


----------



## spi

spi said:


> I'm looking forward to seeing the BOM for the Hatchet Overdrive.


Now that I ordered it I really need it . Any chance you get this up soon?


----------



## Robert

spi said:


> Now that I ordered it I really need it . Any chance you get this up soon?



https://docs.pedalpcb.com/project/Hatchet-PedalPCB.pdf


----------



## jnfpbenjamin

jpier2012 said:


> Box and All EQ build doc?? I got it boxed up, super simple build, but I cannot for the life of me figure out why I'm not getting sound. Just looking to trace the signal path since the op amp voltages are correct and I can't find any ground shorts.


Word, I'm in need of this one as well.


----------



## Robert

https://docs.pedalpcb.com/project/BoxAndAll-PedalPCB.pdf


----------



## dmnCrawler

Robert said:


> https://docs.pedalpcb.com/project/BoxAndAll-PedalPCB.pdf


Thank you for the mass build doc update.


----------



## Pcsontos

DGWVI said:


> Y'all got any of them schematics for the Caesar and Pendulum?


Hello, today i got my pcb for pendulum, i tried to trace it, see attached the pendulum schematics - sorry for handdraw - It is not verified, but looks OK , the LFO is like from the Cardinal tremolo v2 without the wave pot, the lrd part is similar to the moonshoot but doubled, so I think it is more-or less ok.

Hope it helps you as starting point .

Kind regards

Peter


----------



## Chuck D. Bones

Thanks!


----------



## Robert

Pcsontos said:


> Hello, today i got my pcb for pendulum, i tried to trace it, see attached the pendulum schematics - sorry for handdraw



I thought I had already posted this one, but I think maybe I just sent it to someone in a PM....


----------



## beachbum

I'm putting together the parts for an old order for the son of ben preamp. Noticed there's been a new revision. Was the only change made the swapping of the B1MDual for the B2M bass pot?


----------



## Robert

Yep, that was it.    When Tayda started carrying the B2M pot I revised the board.

... but they aren't consistently in stock so I'm somewhat regretting that decision.


----------



## fig

Robert said:


> Yep, that was it.    When Tayda started carrying the B2M pot I revised the board.
> 
> ... but they aren't consistently in stock so I'm somewhat regretting that decision.


When it rains...


----------



## reubenreub

Hey @PedalPCB I think the new Valhalla docs have the wrong schematic. It looks like it's the schematic from the Complex OD instead.


----------



## Robert

Good catch, should be correct now.


----------



## Sparrow

Hi @PedalPCB,
I know you must be extremely busy, but is there any chance you could add the "Unchained" schematic to the build doc. please?
Thanks.


----------



## TheMoonTotem

Any news on the Terrarium's schematic? Thanks


----------



## acenterforants

Viceroy Overdrive (Boneyard Edition) docs.


----------



## MikeA

Next time you revise the LGSM PCB (last build doc is dated 06/07/2020), would you consider modding Q1 & Q2 pinouts by adding another "Emitter" hole to the right of the "Base" hole?  That would allow the use of more common E-B-C NPNs like 2N5088 rather than the unusual E-C-B of the original 2SC1815 transistors.  With a second emitter hole to the right, just flip it upside down and no leg-bending needed.  Thanks, Mike


----------



## MikeA

Just built a Pro-10 Green OD, well done, thanks.  I did notice that 3 caps are missing from the 4/9/21 revision of the BOM: C24 (100p), C100 (100 uF) and C101 (47 uF.)  And there's no schematic in the build doc yet, but it's a new release.  Thanks, Mike


----------



## Luke

Can we please get the docs and drill templates for the Cujo and Dirty Sanchez soon?


----------



## Nrgaposok

The drill template for the Cleaver is one of the older styled ones. Would the Aft Preamp drill template work for the Cleaver as well, or are the holes no similarly spaced?


----------



## 117mateo

Robert said:


> Okay, there is about to be an influx of new projects...... but I want to tie up any loose ends first.
> 
> Is anyone waiting on any missing build docs / schematics?   (Not including the most recent releases, those are already on my list)


Not sure where to post, but the dung beetle build doc is not updated to the new revision. A couple of resistor/capacitor values need updates


----------



## Elktronics

Would love to get the drill template for the dual effects loop switch.

thanks


----------



## Robert

Elktronics said:


> Would love to get the drill template for the dual effects loop switch.
> 
> thanks



https://docs.pedalpcb.com/project/125B-ABLOOP-DrillTemplate.pdf


----------



## ADAOCE

Can we get the schematics for the protein boards?


----------



## finebyfine

Does the Simple Latching Relay Bypass use the same TQ2-L-5V relay as the intelligent version?


----------



## Robert

finebyfine said:


> Does the Simple Latching Relay Bypass use the same TQ2-L-5V relay as the intelligent version?



Yep, it does.


----------



## alltrax74

Hi, will the build docs of the bolide distortion be available anytime soon ?
Thank you


----------



## hybridpi

Any idea when the build docs for the new vibrato will be up?


----------



## slowpogo

hybridpi said:


> Any idea when the build docs for the new vibrato will be up?


+1, would love to get a parts list if nothing else


----------



## Robert

PedalPCB VIIB Parts List
					

I'll get the complete build doc posted ASAP, still working through the backlog of orders from the weekend.  In the meantime, here's the parts list for the VIIB:  https://docs.pedalpcb.com/project/VIIB-BOM.pdf




					forum.pedalpcb.com


----------



## Sparrow

Please could we get the schematic for the "Unchained" PCB?


----------



## Feral Feline

Hoping the LOFINATOR makes it back in stock for my next round of purchases...


----------



## Coda

The docs for the Fuzz Stain do not match the PCB's. My PCB has an additional resistor (1M5) that is neither in the BOM, PCB image, nor the schematic...


----------



## Robert

Coda said:


> The docs for the Fuzz Stain do not match the PCB's. My PCB has an additional resistor (1M5) that is neither in the BOM, PCB image, nor the schematic...



I'll take care of it.


----------



## finebyfine

Few questions on the Electrovibe:

- What are the two pads extra underneath the trimpots? Are these for an option of dropping in 1/4w resistors instead of trimpots?
- What is the top to-92 transistor (dead center, below the 1n5817)?


----------



## JamieJ

finebyfine said:


> Few questions on the Electrovibe:
> 
> - What are the two pads extra underneath the trimpots? Are these for an option of dropping in 1/4w resistors instead of trimpots?
> - What is the top to-92 transistor (dead center, below the 1n5817)?


I’ve seen elsewhere that the transistor below the 1n5817 is the voltage regulator - L78L12.

I also had a question about the pads on the back of the IC is that so we can use a MAX1044/ICL7660 op amp instead of the LT1054?

I have another dumb question… is the 7371 bulb polarised?? I can’t see any info on a few data sheets I have seen.


----------



## finebyfine

JamieJ said:


> I’ve seen elsewhere that the transistor below the 1n5817 is the voltage regulator - L78L12.


Figured it was a voltage regulator, thanks! Makes sense that it's 12v with the bulb being 12v 



JamieJ said:


> I also had a question about the pads on the back of the IC is that so we can use a MAX1044/ICL7660 op amp instead of the LT1054?



Not sure about the ICL7660 but yes if you bridge that connection you can use a 1044 instead. There's a few other pedalpcb builds that have that same setup. Really handy way to do it to not need a full on jumper wire


----------



## Robert

finebyfine said:


> - What are the two pads extra underneath the trimpots? Are these for an option of dropping in 1/4w resistors instead of trimpots?
> - What is the top to-92 transistor (dead center, below the 1n5817)?



The extra pads below the trimpots are to accommodate an RM-065 type trim pot.       Tayda didn't have a 250K trimpot in the 3362P style, and rather than have to bend the leads all wonky like I did, I just added an extra set of pads so they'd be a direct fit.    Of course you could just order a 3362P from Mouser or some other dealer, but adding extra pads was a free and simple fix.

The TO-92 at the top is indeed for a voltage regulator (L78L12).   The bulb actually isn't powered by the 12V supply.   I know some of the other DIY builds tend to drive the lamp from the 12V supply and the opamps from the higher 18V supply, but if you take a look at the original Univibe schematics the supply for the lamp comes straight off the power transformer.   The opamps are powered by the lower (and filtered) B+ derived after the two 470R resistors.



JamieJ said:


> I also had a question about the pads on the back of the IC is that so we can use a MAX1044/ICL7660 op amp instead of the LT1054?
> I have another dumb question… is the 7371 bulb polarised?? I can’t see any info on a few data sheets I have seen.


That's correct, the solder jumpers on the back are for 1044 / 7660 type charge pumps.

The 7371 is a incandescent filament bulb, no polarity.


----------



## finebyfine

Awesome, thank you so much @PedalPCB. I have plenty of 500R 3362Ps laying around that now I am _very _curious where I got


----------



## Robert

My mistake, it was the 250K trim, not the 500R.


----------



## finebyfine

Robert said:


> My mistake, it was the 250K trim, not the 500R.



Hahaha of course just as I read this I realized I have no 250ks


----------



## Stickman393

Looks like the caesar schematics aren't in the build doc, could those be posted?


----------



## IPv6Freely

Stickman393 said:


> Looks like the caesar schematics aren't in the build doc, could those be posted?


+1. I'm having some troubleshooting issues and a schematic would help a LOT in figuring it out.


----------



## Robert

I'll get it posted later today.


----------



## IPv6Freely

Robert said:


> I'll get it posted later today.


Thank you for getting it posted! Now to troubleshoot...


----------



## Jiuk

Finally, Electrovibe PCB is in my hand. I need a schematic and drill template. Plz~


----------



## NickC

Jiuk said:


> Finally, Electrovibe PCB is in my hand. I need a schematic and drill template. Plz~


yeah! i need it too!


----------



## Dr. Satan

Is there an ETA on the Stringer Overdrive schematic/BOM? I need to order some stuffs and I want to make sure I pick up all the necessary bits I may not have. Thanks.

EDIT: I can get by with just pot values and tapers and what devices it uses.


----------



## almondcity

EQD White Light please. I actually really just need to confirm that the toggle is a SPDT like I think it is


----------



## toto_

Jiuk said:


> Finally, Electrovibe PCB is in my hand. I need a schematic and drill template. Plz~


Or at least the drilling holes for the Tayda drill service, it would be awesome


----------



## highway31

I'm also waiting for the Electrovibe drilling template.....


----------



## Robert

highway31 said:


> I'm also waiting for the Electrovibe drilling template.....



https://docs.pedalpcb.com/project/1590BB-DrillTemplate_ElectroVibe.pdf


----------



## IPv6Freely

This isn't "missing" build docs so much, but I have a question about the Black Tiger Boost docs. I'm working now on designing my graphic and finding that the distance between the pot and the LED is way bigger in the drill template than it physically would be with the PCB. I'm measuring exactly 50cm between the middle of the pot and the LED placement on the PCB, but is 59mm in the build docs (and even bigger on the standard 1-knob 125B that is linked to on the product page.

Am I wrong on this, or missing something? Should I just move the pot 9mm down towards the LED? I was planning on using a bigass knob for it so moving it down further is better anyway.


----------



## Robert

The LED pads on the PCBs don't always line up perfectly with the drill template.   

In some cases the leads of the LED need to be bent into position.


----------



## IPv6Freely

Robert said:


> The LED pads on the PCBs don't always line up perfectly with the drill template.
> 
> In some cases the leads of the LED need to be bent into position.


Makes sense! So I'm free either way to relocate things without an issue... most likely


----------



## Harry Klippton

How about the pharmacist build doc?


----------



## Username123

I think the el sol wiring diagram needs to be updated. The pcb does not match it.


----------



## benny_profane

Username123 said:


> I think the el sol wiring diagram needs to be updated. The pcb does not match it.


The wiring diagram is correct. Ignore the pcb layout and just look at the pads with wires coming out of them. Those correspond to pads on the el sol (and the majority of other projects). The pcb in the wiring diagram is just a generic stand in.


----------



## Robert

Harry Klippton said:


> How about the pharmacist build doc?



Two new PCBs to verify today then it'll be time to focus on build docs again.

Benny is correct, aside from special circumstances the wiring diagram is standard/generic in _most_ of the build docs.    The diagram image is being progressively updated to prevent confusion.


----------



## IPv6Freely

Robert said:


> Two new PCBs to verify today then it'll be time to focus on build docs again.
> 
> Benny is correct, aside from special circumstances the wiring diagram is standard/generic in _most_ of the build docs.    The diagram image is being progressively updated to prevent confusion.


Definitely a good call. I was confused with my first build as well.


----------



## Elktronics

No rush, but for the brownout overdrive, could you please let me know what kind of toggle switch we need for this?


----------



## Robert

Elktronics said:


> No rush, but for the brownout overdrive, could you please let me know what kind of toggle switch we need for this?



SPDT ON/ON (2-Position)


----------



## blackhatboojum

Finished up my XC Phase build today and noticed an issue with the pcb.  The silkscreen shows the 2N5952’s orientated the wrong way.  I was scratching my head for an hour trying to figure why I wasn’t getting any phasing until I reviewed the pinout on a 2N5952.


----------



## Robert

blackhatboojum said:


> Finished up my XC Phase build today and noticed an issue with the pcb.  The silkscreen shows the 2N5952’s orientated the wrong way.  I was scratching my head for an hour trying to figure why I wasn’t getting any phasing until I reviewed the pinout on a 2N5952.



Ahhh good catch, that's what I get for verifying with something other than 2N5292.   🤦‍♂️ 

I'll make the necessary updates (and notes in the doc).


----------



## blackhatboojum

Robert said:


> Ahhh good catch, that's what I get for verifying with something other than 2N5292.   🤦‍♂️
> 
> I'll make the necessary updates (and notes in the doc).


Right on.  Happy to help.  Great sounding circuit by the way👍.


----------



## droneshotfpv

Possible to get a BOM on the Brownout Overdrive? It's in the cart as the next purchase (I can't stop buying! lol)
I'm mostly concerned with what FET's / Tranny's, etc I will need for Q1 - Q7 so i can get them if I need them.


----------



## Robert

I'm hoping to have the complete build doc posted today.

(You need 5 x 2N5457s and 2 x 2N5088)


----------



## Stickman393

Something I noticed - 

On the HAARP build docs the board layout diagram lists the component values, rather than their schedule tags (R1, C100, etc).

It would be nice to have the labels on there for troubleshooting purposes.


----------



## Robert

Stickman393 said:


> Something I noticed -


Ahh it _should_ show the refdes locations, I'll fix it.    👍


----------



## Bricksnbeatles

Got a drill template for the Pharmacist? Gonna design some graphics soon


----------



## Robert

https://docs.pedalpcb.com/project/1590BB-DrillTemplate_Pharmacist.pdf


----------



## Username123

Not a missing build doc, but the sunflower fuzz has the old build doc. Not an issue for me, but if you want to revise it you can.


----------



## spi

Just ordered a Duck Box.  Is that a SPDT ON-ON switch it uses?

Oh, and what is the Trim-pot value used in the Magnetron?


----------



## Robert

Duck Box build PDF is up now.
https://docs.pedalpcb.com/project/DuckBox-PedalPCB.pdf
The trim pot in the Magnetron is 100K.


----------



## temol

Face Melter build document - value of the SIZZLE potentiometer on a schematic (A100k) does not match parts list and PCB silkscreen (A10k)


----------



## jts3339

Harry Klippton said:


> How about the pharmacist build doc?


I have the pcb for the Pharmacist and am also anxiously awaiting the build docs. I’m excited to build this one!


----------



## lrgaraujo

Not sure if this is the right place to post, but it looks like the pad for input is grounded in the Acetylene Overdrive board (and one of the gnd pads is not)


----------



## Robert

lrgaraujo said:


> Not sure if this is the right place to post, but it looks like the pad for input is grounded in the Acetylene Overdrive board (and one of the gnd pads is not)



That's a good catch, but ignore the preview pic.   The actual PCBs are correct.


----------



## zgrav

Has the schematic been posted for the Mosfeta?


----------



## jjourard

Looking at the board for the Pharmacist Overdrive, I see that the locations are all marked with references to to C10, R13, etc.  I don't see a parts list, BOM or schematic to follow.  Will that info be included with the board when shipped?
​


----------



## zgrav

the board lists the part values instead of the numbers for the parts.


----------



## spi

temol said:


> Face Melter build document - value of the SIZZLE potentiometer on a schematic (A100k) does not match parts list and PCB silkscreen (A10k)


There's some other threads that discuss this.  You can use either, but the preference is for A10K.


----------



## jjourard

Do you mean that the board as shipped will differ from this one shown online?  Right now it shows numbers for the parts instead of parts values.




zgrav said:


> the board lists the part values instead of the numbers for the parts.


----------



## JamieJ

jjourard said:


> Do you mean that the board as shipped will differ from this one shown online?  Right now it shows numbers for the parts instead of parts values.
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 14770


Yep it will list components values and not the part numbers so that you can populate the board without a build doc


----------



## jjourard

JamieJ said:


> Yep it will list components values and not the part numbers so that you can populate the board without a build doc


Very good.  Thank you.


----------



## Bricksnbeatles

jjourard said:


> Do you mean that the board as shipped will differ from this one shown online?  Right now it shows numbers for the parts instead of parts values.
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 14770


Yup. Pretty much all of the PCBs are like that afaik. I got my pharmacist board in just yesterday, and I could take a pic of it if you’d like so you can figure out the parts you need beforehand


----------



## erwinsoundsystem

Hello,
would there be a possibility to get a schematic for the Fuzz Stain? Mine does not work unfortunately and I do not really know where to go with the audio probe exactly. As far as I can see, the build documentation is missing on the website or did I miss something?
Thanks & best regards
Jan


----------



## Coda

I know its still early, but what do I need to assemble the protoboard? No docs are posted yet. Also, for the Dream Fuzz, is the SPDT an on/on? It doesn't mention it in the doc.


----------



## jjourard

JamieJ said:


> Yep it will list components values and not the part numbers so that you can populate the board without a build doc


Board arrived today.  Still a couple questions --
1. is the idea to align the unmarked solder pads at the bottom of the board on the left & right sides to the similar unmarked solder pads on the switch PCB?  Start at the left and connect a wire from the leftmost hole on the board to the leftmost hole on the switch PCB and so on across the row?
2. Two mystery pads, one above a 2n2222 and another above 10uF marking?
3. Positive + and negative - pads are DC input?
4. A---K  are maybe + and - for the LEDs?  A---K does not mean much.  Is this maybe from German for A-node and K-athode?


----------



## JamieJ

jjourard said:


> Board arrived today.  Still a couple questions --
> 1. is the idea to align the unmarked solder pads at the bottom of the board on the left & right sides to the similar unmarked solder pads on the switch PCB?  Start at the left and connect a wire from the leftmost hole on the board to the leftmost hole on the switch PCB and so on across the row?
> 2. Two mystery pads, one above a 2n2222 and another above 10uF marking?
> 3. Positive + and negative - pads are DC input?
> 4. A---K  are maybe + and - for the LEDs?  A---K does not mean much.  Is this maybe from German for A-node and K-athode?


1. Yep, those pads need to connect to the switch daughter boards.
2. Those pads will be your in and out connection to your audio jacks. Both have a ground connection. It’s the same format for all PedalPCB builds. If they are not marked in/gnd and out/ground check continuity with a multimeter to the - power pad.
3. Yep they are your power connections to your power jack.
4. You are spot on. Anode +ve Long lead and kathode -ve short lead of the LED.

Look at some other PedalPCB build docs to get an idea


----------



## jjourard

JamieJ said:


> 1. Yep, those pads need to connect to the switch daughter boards.
> 2. Those pads will be your in and out connection to your audio jacks. Both have a ground connection. It’s the same format for all PedalPCB builds. If they are not marked in/gnd and out/ground check continuity with a multimeter to the - power pad.
> 3. Yep they are your power connections to your power jack.
> 4. You are spot on. Anode +ve Long lead and kathode -ve short lead of the LED.
> 
> Look at some other PedalPCB build docs to get an idea


Firstly - Thank You.  That completes the requirements for a build.
Secondly... well...So much is assumed here that requires me to have much experience with the peculiarities of your one way of doing things.  It's your call, of course but I would like to point out that not everybody is a veteran of your projects.  I buy boards from many vendors and while the quality of your boards is very very good, the places where you gloss over things could benefit from at least a little improvement.  If you aren't going to post a BOM or build doc - which you must have some version of since you made the thing - and are letting the board markings tell the whole story.... well, why not let it tell the actual whole story?  Those extra little markings would barely take up any room or ink and would go a long way toward making the boards standalone self-explanatory.  They are pretty close right now, but I just don't feel like I should have to keep coming back here and saying, "please, sir - what is this mystery item on the board?"  You're so close!


----------



## zgrav

jjourard said:


> Firstly - Thank You.  That completes the requirements for a build.
> Secondly... well...So much is assumed here that requires me to have much experience with the peculiarities of your one way of doing things.  It's your call, of course but I would like to point out that not everybody is a veteran of your projects.  I buy boards from many vendors and while the quality of your boards is very very good, the places where you gloss over things could benefit from at least a little improvement.  If you aren't going to post a BOM or build doc - which you must have some version of since you made the thing - and are letting the board markings tell the whole story.... well, why not let it tell the actual whole story?  Those extra little markings would barely take up any room or ink and would go a long way toward making the boards standalone self-explanatory.  They are pretty close right now, but I just don't feel like I should have to keep coming back here and saying, "please, sir - what is this mystery item on the board?"  You're so close!


The build docs usually get posted within a few weeks and that becomes less of an issue for everyone.  Folks that want to purchase the board right when it is released are usually people already familiar with the general build process.  Best advice would probably be to wait to assemble a board until the build document and schematic are available.  Sometimes the build docs will get published without the schematic, and then get updated later.    

Your point that some additional labels on the boards would make it clearer for other builders is still a good suggestion, and I bet we will see that happen soon.  Overall, I think the layout for the pharmacist board is very clean and organized.  I like the row of resistors, the spacing for the caps, and the dual build option for the 2N5457s.  I wonder if the included min-boards for the footswitches will also become more common.


----------



## Robert

The IN/OUT pads are _usually _marked, but they do sometimes get overlooked on the initial run of boards.   They will be marked in the next batch.
This is a bit of a rare occurrence, the majority of the boards don't connect directly to the jacks like this one.



zgrav said:


> I wonder if the included min-boards for the footswitches will also become more common.



Yep,  I plan to include them on any future projects that have a non-standard wiring scheme.

Just in case you don't have a DMM handy....


----------



## jjourard

Robert said:


> The IN/OUT pads are _usually _marked, but they do sometimes get overlooked on the initial run of boards.   They will be marked in the next batch.
> This is a bit of a rare occurrence, the majority of the boards don't connect directly to the jacks like this one.
> 
> 
> 
> Yep,  I plan to include them on any future projects that have a non-standard wiring scheme.
> 
> Just in case you don't have a DMM handy....


That's great news.


----------



## jjourard

zgrav said:


> The build docs usually get posted within a few weeks and that becomes less of an issue for everyone.  Folks that want to purchase the board right when it is released are usually people already familiar with the general build process.  Best advice would probably be to wait to assemble a board until the build document and schematic are available.  Sometimes the build docs will get published without the schematic, and then get updated later.
> 
> Your point that some additional labels on the boards would make it clearer for other builders is still a good suggestion, and I bet we will see that happen soon.  Overall, I think the layout for the pharmacist board is very clean and organized.  I like the row of resistors, the spacing for the caps, and the dual build option for the 2N5457s.  I wonder if the included min-boards for the footswitches will also become more common.


If, like me, you just pop in from time to time to see if anything piques my interest, there's no way to tell that something was just introduced.  It's just another board.  It's wrong to assume that if I buy one that just coincidentally happens to be new that I am a knowing early adopter and should automatically have all the context that a constant repeat customer has.  I don't want to join a cult!  Just want to build a project from a PCB from time to time.  That will include enough information to actually build the thing!  That's reasonable, don't you think?


----------



## jjourard

zgrav said:


> ...and the dual build option for the 2N5457s.  I wonder if the included min-boards for the footswitches will also become more common.


What do you mean by Dual Build Option for 2N5457s?
Do those unlabeled empty rectangles at the 2N5457 locations have any significance?


----------



## benny_profane

jjourard said:


> there's no way to tell that something was just introduced


Your point is well-taken, but there's a pretty obvious marker that something was just introduced. It's done that way so folks that wanna jump on it can before waiting for build docs that they might not need.







jjourard said:


> What do you mean by Dual Build Option for 2N5457s?
> Do those unlabeled empty rectangles at the 2N5457 locations have any significance?


There are both through-hole and SMD options for the JFETs. The 'empty rectangles' with the label right next to them are for the SMD part. Only one should be populated. This makes the project more viable for more people since (real) through-hole JFETs are harder to come by.

Also, as @PedalPCB said, it's quite rare that the silkscreen for those pads is missing.


----------



## Big Monk

Just curious about an ETA on the ElectroVibe documents.


----------



## jjourard

benny_profane said:


> Your point is well-taken, but there's a pretty obvious marker that something was just introduced. It's done that way so folks that wanna jump on it can before waiting for build docs that they might not need.
> 
> View attachment 15059
> 
> 
> There are both through-hole and SMD options for the JFETs. The 'empty rectangles' with the label right next to them are for the SMD part. Only one should be populated. This makes the project more viable for more people since (real) through-hole JFETs are harder to come by.
> 
> Also, as @PedalPCB said, it's quite rare that the silkscreen for those pads is missing.


I see that it is true.  I did not know, as you many "clubhouse" members do, that it also means, possibly with errors, omissions and missing or too-sparse information.    Now I know much better what the scene is here.


----------



## jjourard

benny_profane said:


> ...There are both through-hole and SMD options for the JFETs. The 'empty rectangles' with the label right next to them are for the SMD part. Only one should be populated. This makes the project more viable for more people since (real) through-hole JFETs are harder to come by.
> 
> Also, as @PedalPCB said, it's quite rare that the silkscreen for those pads is missing.


OK.  Thank you for providing that missing information.


----------



## benny_profane

jjourard said:


> I see that it is true.  I did not know, as you many "clubhouse" members do, that it also means, possibly with errors, omissions and missing or too-sparse information.    Now I know much better what the scene is here.


I'm not sure what you mean. When projects get introduced, there is a dedicated store page for the board. On that page, there is a field at the bottom that either links to the build documents or indicates that the build documents are forthcoming. If you purchase a board that doesn't have build documents, you can either wait for build documents to be posted, or you can work from the values indicated on the board.

As mentioned above, boards are sold before documents are available for those who are eager to make a project and are fine with being early adopters. Personally, I usually wait until documents are available because I like to reference a schematic while I build and make adjustments or modifications. There are hundreds of projects listed with comprehensive build documentation. Those without are a very small fraction of the total.

Projects are listed/sold in good faith. If there ever is an issue, @PedalPCB goes above and beyond to make it right. Additionally, there is a wealth of knowledge and support offered in the forum.

I can tell that you are less than satisfied with your experience—and that is unfortunate. Some of the issues that you're bringing up (e.g., the 'A' and 'K' pad labels for the LED, '+' and '-' for the DC input, SMD transistor footprints) are not specific to boards offered here and are rather standard. Regardless, many people have offered quick responses to your concerns and have attempted to offer help. I'm not sure what you're looking for with a response, but I wish you the best of luck in your projects.


----------



## JamieJ

jjourard said:


> I see that it is true.  I did not know, as you many "clubhouse" members do, that it also means, possibly with errors, omissions and missing or too-sparse information.    Now I know much better what the scene is here.


No one is making you be a part of this “scene”. This discussion is all because in/out were not labelled on your PCB. You did the sensible thing and ask here for help for which the “clubhouse members” of this scene offered assistance. I am sensing a level of dissatisfaction from you which is coming out as passive aggression. I may be mistaken as it is easy to be through typed word.

I genuinely do hope you wish to be part of this scene. It’s a great place with huge amount of support, so hopefully you can look past the lack of in/out labels.

With Mr PedalPCB bring a one man band and in combination with the sheer number of traces he has completed, there has to be some level of efficiency in the process. If there is no build doc available you could ask in the forum when it will be available or just wait until it’s up.


----------



## jjourard

I suppose you do have me dead to rights on the passive aggressive thing.  I give you that.  I was indignant that my difficulties were being explained away as just being too new here.

In my defense, I originally was puzzled that the board was illustrated with only part references (R12, C15, etc) but no BOM and no Build doc.  The explanation was that the board will actually have values printed, which would minimize the need for docs.  

When it arrived, it still had undefined pads which is where I jumped in.  In the absence of any doc, that's kind of difficult to work with.  When the "you're just supposed to know" started coming up, that's when my blood pressure started coming up.  I sometimes do have a short fuse and can be impatient.  I apologize for that.


----------



## zgrav

Most of us prefer to have new boards made available even when the build documents will only be published later.  And some folks wait for a build doc, but won't necessarily wait if the document is initially published without the schematic since those seem to take a bit more time.  Folks ordering from the existing inventory of boards are more likely to get a complete build document.

Overall, this site tends to provide much less information in the build docs than other sites, but people in the forums are very supportive.  The large variety of boards -- some unique to this site -- also draw in customers with wide ranges of build experience, from seasoned builders, kit builders, or first-time builders.  Some of those people will struggle even with good build docs, but requests for assistance in the forums are answered.

As noted above, the newly released boards also may be missing useful information but ask a question and you will likely get one or more answers.


----------



## JamieJ

jjourard said:


> I suppose you do have me dead to rights on the passive aggressive thing.  I give you that.  I was indignant that my difficulties were being explained away as just being too new here.
> 
> In my defense, I originally was puzzled that the board was illustrated with only part references (R12, C15, etc) but no BOM and no Build doc.  The explanation was that the board will actually have values printed, which would minimize the need for docs.
> 
> When it arrived, it still had undefined pads which is where I jumped in.  In the absence of any doc, that's kind of difficult to work with.  When the "you're just supposed to know" started coming up, that's when my blood pressure started coming up.  I sometimes do have a short fuse and can be impatient.  I apologize for that.


Hey it’s all good. I can appreciate its fairly stressful to spend quite a bit of money on a PCB and not have a build doc to go on. That’s the great thing about this forum. There is always someone to help. Good luck with the build.


----------



## temol

In my opinion, It would be helpful (for the builders) to have jfet biasing information included in a build documents. I know it's related to the parameters of the transistors but it's better than nothing. Drain voltage measurement taken from the traced circuit would be a good starting point. 
In some cases it would be also good to know value of the Vcc/Vdd/Vee voltages, especially when charge pump is present in the circuit. 

As an example - End All Red Overdrive.  The build doc calls for electrolytic caps rated for 25V minimum. So the Vcc/Vdd/Vee voltages should not exceed 24V. But is it more or less the same as in the RG100 preamp - 24V? Or maybe 22V or 18V? This information could be handy when troubleshooting power supply section issues.


----------



## jhergonz

Good day,

I found out that most of the new released PCB already has a Build doc with schematics.

but some quite old released PCBs still doesn't have schematics in build docs, like Unchained OD, XB-MB, Pro-10 Blue, & Pro-10 Green.

Are they just forgotten or there are other reasons?

I think the King Hand OD and Lone King OD's schematics will not be uploaded?


----------



## laxu

Both Pro-10 boards are missing schematics.


----------



## Robert

jjourard said:


> I did not know, as you many "clubhouse" members do, that it also means, possibly with errors, omissions and missing or too-sparse information.    Now I know much better what the scene is here.



It shouldn't suggest "errors", although I have been known to make mistakes from time to time, and I can almost assure you they won't be my last.

With that said, if the build docs are available for a project they'll be listed on the product page under the Documentation heading.    There's absolutely nothing wrong with hesitating to order/build a project until the documentation is available for download.  

Some folks feel confident enough to tackle the builds before the documentation is posted, some don't even bother with the docs when they _are_ available...  but others would prefer the info before starting on a build.

If you see "Build docs coming soon..." in that section it's a good indication that you might want to hold off on that project if you are in the latter group.


----------



## Robert

jhergonz said:


> I think the King Hand OD and Lone King OD's schematics will not be uploaded?



They will _all_ eventually be uploaded.   No schematics are intentionally withheld... some require more attention than others to be presentable, some of the docs were posted in a hurry and haven't been revisited.


----------



## temol

Hi. 
Mofeta build doc is still missing the schematic. Any chance for the update?


----------



## MAO

Robert said:


> Okay, there is about to be an influx of new projects...... but I want to tie up any loose ends first.
> 
> Is anyone waiting on any missing build docs / schematics?   (Not including the most recent releases, those are already on my list)


Hey Bugg,
Would you have an eta on the Acetylene build doc?


----------



## Joben Magooch

Not "missing" per se but I'm wondering about the Superbolt/Super '64 - has the PCB been updated for SMD J201's? The graphic and build doc still just show through-hole, so I figured I ought to check.


----------



## Robert

Joben Magooch said:


> Not "missing" per se but I'm wondering about the Superbolt/Super '64 - has the PCB been updated for SMD J201's?



Not yet, it's still through-hole only so you'd need an adapter for SMD.    

The pre-soldered J201's should be back in stock next week.


----------



## NoIdea

Any idea on ETA for the Parthenon Overdrive build doc?


----------



## michaeldustdevil

has the Mofeta schematic been posted on any thread yet?... my computer has been down for almost two months, so wondering if i missed something... & i would really like to breadboard it before i build it... thanks in anticipation...


----------



## Coda

Building the Dream Fuzz today. The parts lists only lists one 150n cap. Not a huge deal, I suppose, since the pcb and the BOM are good…


----------



## uranium_jones

NoIdea said:


> Any idea on ETA for the Parthenon Overdrive build doc?


I'm curious what the update is/was, because I have a previous version on my HD


----------



## Robert

The only difference is the Clip toggle switch was changed to a Taiway Type-2, nothing else has changed. 

The original version build doc is here:
https://docs.pedalpcb.com/project/Parthenon.pdf
The affected PCBs are marked "Type 2" in the switch footprint.   If the toggle switch on your PCB isn't marked "Type 2" then you need a Type 1 toggle switch.   Tayda lists their DPDT ON/ON/ON as Type 2 but that is incorrect.     Type 2 ON/ON/ON DPDTs should be sourced from LoveMySwitches or Smallbear.  (Taiway brand)


Eventually the spacing of the switches will be modified slightly so it's not such a tight fit, but this hasn't happened yet.


----------



## IPv6Freely

Robert said:


> Not yet, it's still through-hole only so you'd need an adapter for SMD.
> 
> The pre-soldered J201's should be back in stock next week.


Through-hole J201s are also readily available on Mouser, now.


----------



## alienas

I don't like smd's with adapters because they must be soldered and are not removable. And transistors don't like heat. 
About JFETs, is a JFET any good if it needs 100k drain resistor to be biased properly? 
And are J201 and 2N5458 swappable?
Thanks


----------



## BuddytheReow

J201 and 2n5457 are close substitutes, but they are not identical.


----------



## temol

alienas said:


> About JFETs, is a JFET any good if it needs 100k drain resistor to be biased properly?


Value of the drain resistor depends on parameters of the particular jfet and other factors. Looks like 100k is a leftover from transfering tube amp schematics to jfets.
Below I attach screens from ltspice.
You can clearly see the difference between J201, 2N5457 and 2N5458 in terms of gain.

I only adjusted Rd value to get 4.5V on a drain of each transistor. Rs does not change (because people usualy adjust only Rd value. And often it's a trimmer).
Rd for J201 =34.3k
Rd for 2N457 =16k
Rd for 2N458 =11.95k
Rs = 3k










alienas said:


> And are J201 and 2N5458 swappable?


It depends. As a source follower (buffer) - yes. In a gain stage - sometimes.


----------



## Feral Feline

alienas said:


> I don't like smd's with adapters because they must be soldered and are not removable. And transistors don't like heat.
> About JFETs, is a JFET any good if it needs 100k drain resistor to be biased properly?
> And are J201 and 2N5458 swappable?
> Thanks




IMO, it's the PCBs that have SMD pads that must be soldered and are not (easily) removable.
I like adapters because they _are_ more easily removable.

When you've got a through-hole board and SMD-adapter daughterboards, you can socket the main board and solder the SMD bits to the adapters and shove the adapters in the main-board's sockets — if something goes wrong, remove the adapter with the toasted component and replace it — easy-peasy.

If an SMD-board's component goes bad, you can still remove it, but I would think it's more of a PITB to do so and especially so if the PCB has a mix of THD and SMD.


----------



## bowanderror

temol said:


> Value of the drain resistor depends on parameters of the particular jfet and other factors. Looks like 100k is a leftover from transfering tube amp schematics to jfets.
> Below I attach screens from ltspice.
> You can clearly see the difference between J201, 2N5457 and 2N5458 in terms of gain.
> 
> I only adjusted Rd value to get 4.5V on a drain of each transistor. Rs does not change (because people usualy adjust only Rd value. And often it's a trimmer).
> Rd for J201 =34.3k
> Rd for 2N457 =16k
> Rd for 2N458 =11.95k
> Rs = 3k
> 
> View attachment 16306
> View attachment 16307
> 
> 
> It depends. As a source follower (buffer) - yes. In a gain stage - sometimes.


Those look like quite useful LTSpice plots, how did you set up your command to step through 3 different transistor/resistor combinations?


----------



## bowanderror

alienas said:


> I don't like smd's with adapters because they must be soldered and are not removable. And transistors don't like heat.


I use resistor leg cutoffs on my SMD adapter boards & they work great in sockets! Also never had a problem with SMD JFETs & heat, and I use a standard hand iron to solder them.


----------



## temol

bowanderror said:


> Those look like quite useful LTSpice plots, how did you set up your command to step through 3 different transistor/resistor combinations?


No .step command or any other magic.. just three transistors.


----------



## jeffwhitfield

Mojito Deluxe Overdrive is still missing build docs and a schematic.


----------



## michaeldustdevil

any chance of the Mofeta Preamp schematic?... i really want to breadboard it before i build... thanks...


----------



## Barry

jeffwhitfield said:


> Mojito Deluxe Overdrive is still missing build docs and a schematic.


The schematic is likely in Chuck's Boneyard post on it


----------



## dont-tase-me-bro

is the Lo-Fi Machine build doc available anywhere?


----------



## alienas

temol said:


> Value of the drain resistor depends on parameters of the particular jfet and other factors. Looks like 100k is a leftover from transfering tube amp schematics to jfets.
> Below I attach screens from ltspice.
> You can clearly see the difference between J201, 2N5457 and 2N5458 in terms of gain.
> 
> I only adjusted Rd value to get 4.5V on a drain of each transistor. Rs does not change (because people usualy adjust only Rd value. And often it's a trimmer).
> Rd for J201 =34.3k
> Rd for 2N457 =16k
> Rd for 2N458 =11.95k
> Rs = 3k
> 
> View attachment 16306
> View attachment 16307
> 
> 
> It depends. As a source follower (buffer) - yes. In a gain stage - sometimes.


Thanks for these informations...
About the 100 k drain resistor, i mean that what if i have to turn the trimpot to 100k to get the correct voltage at the drain? Is the FET still good?


----------



## lfrank580

Could we get the XB-MB schematic? I'm having issues with mine and would like to analyze the circuit and figure out what's going wrong. Thank you!


----------



## jeffwhitfield

Barry said:


> The schematic is likely in Chuck's Boneyard post on it


Nope! Just a pic of his finished prototype. 🤪


----------



## Barry

jeffwhitfield said:


> Nope! Just a pic of his finished prototype. 🤪








						Celebrating the Autumnal Equinox with another pedal - The Mojito
					

This Overdrive is heavily based on the BJFe Honey Beest, a Honey Bee with a JFET booster up front.  It was a collaborative effort with HamishR.  In his honor, I've cracked a tuber of Foster's Lager (yeah, I know, it's that wallaby-piss export stuff). HamishR had been advocating his modified...




					forum.pedalpcb.com


----------



## jeffwhitfield

Barry said:


> Celebrating the Autumnal Equinox with another pedal - The Mojito
> 
> 
> This Overdrive is heavily based on the BJFe Honey Beest, a Honey Bee with a JFET booster up front.  It was a collaborative effort with HamishR.  In his honor, I've cracked a tuber of Foster's Lager (yeah, I know, it's that wallaby-piss export stuff). HamishR had been advocating his modified...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> forum.pedalpcb.com


Well, that definitely helps.


----------



## Barry

If you scroll through that thread you’ll find the added foot switch I believe


----------



## thesmokingman

looking at the calendar and my email inbox and it's been over a month since the release of the acetylene and still no build docs ... got an ETA?


----------



## Feral Feline

dont-tase-me-bro said:


> is the Lo-Fi Machine build doc available anywhere?


Is the Lo-Fi Machine *PCB* going to be available again?


----------



## Robert

Feral Feline said:


> Is the Lo-Fi Machine *PCB* going to be available again?



Yes, eventually it will.


----------



## Rock'n me

I repeat it at this better place.
I still miss the lone king and king's hand schematics. The symbolic too. Mailing over the great ocean was faster than publishing. But. How soon is now?

I think that the most practical aspect of building your own pedals is that you can modify them relatively easily to your own taste. Schemes of the circuit boards would therefore be very useful. In particular, I would like to know what the switches actually switch. Or, are them just for noodling?


----------



## Preverb

I think the Clandestine build doc is also missing but this is a new PCB right?


----------



## Robusto

Acetylene


----------



## Flashheart

Ok I feel like an idiot. So with that out of the way, I have the type 2 DPDT ON/ON/ON PCB board but I think I purchased the type 1 switch. Would someone mind looking at the attached pics and tell me if this is type 1 or 2?


----------



## Robert

I've never seen a Type 1 Taiway switch.   

Do you have a DMM?   If so, check and see which sets of lugs are connected when the switch is in the middle position.


----------



## ALK2MT

thesmokingman said:


> looking at the calendar and my email inbox and it's been over a month since the release of the acetylene and still no build docs ... got an ETA?


Waiting on those as well!


----------



## Big Monk

@PedalPCB 

Do you have a clearer version of the schematic for the Carcass?


----------



## Robert

Ahh did that one get crushed by JPEG too?

I'll get it reposted.


----------



## Big Monk

Robert said:


> Ahh did that one get crushed by JPEG too?
> 
> I'll get it reposted.



I think so. It’s tough to read. On my iPad I was able to breadboard using what’s there but it’s definitely a bit blurry.


----------



## DrVon

Just wondering if the Pro 10 Green schematic will be available soon. I'm having quite the feedback issue within the tone circuit that I can't seem to solve.


----------



## bb4

Is there a build doc for the VIIB? Thanks


----------



## ErickPulido

Just got my Chauffeur PCB would love to see the schematic as a guidance, for future mods, any chance to get a preview Mr @PedalPCB


----------



## temol

Mofeta Preamp
Revised 7/18/21 
Schematic Coming Soon...


----------



## benny_profane

Pendulum Harmonic Tremolo schematic please. I'm interested in building it, but want to be sure that I can mod it to add modes.

EDIT: Are any of the other full-featured (harmonic) tremolos still happening?


----------



## temol

benny_profane said:


> Pendulum Harmonic Tremolo schematic please.








						Missing Build Docs / Schematics
					

Since we're not trying to revolutionize the layout of pedalboards I've corrected the labels in the drill template.      Thanks for pointing that out.  :ROFLMAO:  Antithesis build doc is up now.  sooo excited for the antithesis. i'm not super up on boutique-y pedals so it took me a second but...




					forum.pedalpcb.com


----------



## Grubb

Politely requesting both Pro-10 schematics when you get a chance @PedalPCB  🙏 😁


----------



## jimilee

Got a kickstart distortion on the way, will the build doc be available in about a week?


----------



## Username123

I got [insert pcb name] last week and was wondering if you could post a build doc for [insert pcb name]. If you did I would greatly appreciate it!
"Patience Anakin"- Obi Wan Kenobi


----------



## jimilee

Oh absolutely, it was just curious. I’ve been stoked about this build for a while. I just got it today and noticed the part numbers are on the the board, so it shouldn’t be much of a problem. I forgot they (he?) did that.


----------



## Robert

https://docs.pedalpcb.com/project/BOM-Kickstart.pdf


----------



## jimilee

Well thank you sir, I appreciate that.


----------



## Robusto

I am looking forward to building the regular size Electrovibe, but I hesitate to spend $20 on a PCB unless there's a build doc, or even a parts list. They may be buried in another thread somewhere, but I can't find anything. 🤷‍♂️


----------



## kleinbergerzam

I'm also looking for build docs on the ElectroVibe. Or even just a parts list. I've gotta itchy Tayda trigger finger tonight.


----------



## jimilee

Kickstart Distortion. I found a discrepancy between the board and the BOM. R20 on the board is listed as 1M., the BOM lists it as 6k8.I think I remember reading always go by the board. Which is right?


----------



## Robert

Follow your board.   The BOM is correct, R20 has just been relocated since the preview on the product page was generated.


----------



## jimilee

Thanks again sir!


----------



## Robert

Absolutely!    This is _almost_ always the case, but it never hurts to ask.


----------



## Guava13

Is there a Pharmacist build doc available?


----------



## Robusto

Robert said:


> Follow your board.   The BOM is correct, R20 has just been relocated since the preview on the product page was generated.
> 
> View attachment 20031




I was actually hoping for a build doc for the full-sized version, not the mini. Just don't want to put the time into it without at least a schematic and parts list. For example, looking at the PCB isn't telling me which LDRs to use or what to put in there for a light. Also, no drill template.


----------



## jimilee

The mini what? This is the kickstart distortion, there isn’t a mini. Clipping LEDs are, more often than not, 3mm red. That’s my preference anyway.


----------



## Robert

Robusto said:


> I was actually hoping for a build doc for the full-sized version, not the mini.


The most popular lamp/LDR combination seems to be the 7371 lamp and 9203 LDRs.

There is a parts list here:


			https://forum.pedalpcb.com/attachments/electrovibe-parts-list-pdf.13526/
		


This is the drill template:
https://docs.pedalpcb.com/project/1590BB-DrillTemplate_ElectroVibe.pdf


----------



## Guava13

Guava13 said:


> Is there a Pharmacist build doc available?


Or at least a schematic?  I’m having trouble reading a couple of values on the board.


----------



## BuddytheReow

Do we have a schematic/build doc for the crankshaft distortion? I found a layout for it elsewhere and traced it to get a schematic. This may be my next tutorial build in the test kitchen but need to verify before posting.


----------



## Robert




----------



## Robusto

Robert said:


> The most popular lamp/LDR combination seems to be the 7371 lamp and 9203 LDRs.
> 
> There is a parts list here:
> 
> 
> https://forum.pedalpcb.com/attachments/electrovibe-parts-list-pdf.13526/
> 
> 
> 
> This is the drill template:
> https://docs.pedalpcb.com/project/1590BB-DrillTemplate_ElectroVibe.pdf



Can you tell me what this part is for?


----------



## Robert

Those pads are for the Chorus/Vibrato toggle switch. 

It's not PCB mounted because there are (at least) three different types of switches you can use.

See this build report:  https://forum.pedalpcb.com/threads/electrovibe-big-monk.8576/post-79320


----------



## Robert

Guava13 said:


> Is there a Pharmacist build doc available?



There is now.

https://docs.pedalpcb.com/project/Pharmacist-PedalPCB.pdf


----------



## giovanni

Pro-10 green schematics are still missing (not sure about blue).


----------



## finebyfine

Build docs for Fuzz Aldrin / Lunar Module PCB187 aren't up to date with the PCB revision. Not sure if any refdes have changed (I don't think so, and only realized the differences after finishing a build that sounds perfect), the only visible difference is the placement of two capacitors (and updated LED footprint)


----------



## michaeldustdevil

any chance of getting the Mofeta Preamp schematic up for this new year?


----------



## giovanni

The doc for the Mystery Machine says 125B instead of 1590BB.


----------



## jimilee

giovanni said:


> The doc for the Mystery Machine says 125B instead of 1590BB.


Challenge accepted...


----------



## giovanni

One more thing: some docs for pedals with charge pump have a note about getting electrolytic caps rated at least 25V or 35V depending on how many stages of charge pump. Some docs do not, e.g., Pro-Filter, Delegate Boneyard. I am sure it would help newbies to always have the rating when needed.


----------



## Robert

Yep, good point.   I've started making the note on the newer docs. 

The older files are in Adobe InDesign format and need to be recreated in order to make any updates.


----------



## Sans_Cœur

Also hoping for leprechaun and mofeta docs to be uploaded/completed soon 🙂


----------



## temol

Build document link for the Unison Double Tracker points to the Pythagoras.pdf
Do they use the same board?


----------



## Bricksnbeatles

temol said:


> Build document link for the Unison Double Tracker points to the Pythagoras.pdf
> Do they use the same board?


Yes! Just the EEPROM that makes it the Unison


----------



## jeffwhitfield

giovanni said:


> Pro-10 green schematics are still missing (not sure about blue).


Looking for both of these myself. I like to study the schematics of the stuff I build. Plus, it helps when a problem arises that requires a trace. 

No rush Mr. PedalPCB! When ya get a chance to post them, please do so. It'll make me squee with joy.


----------



## ovenbirdmusic

Robert said:


> Okay, there is about to be an influx of new projects...... but I want to tie up any loose ends first.
> 
> Is anyone waiting on any missing build docs / schematics?   (Not including the most recent releases, those are already on my list)


Mid-Fi Electronics Scrape Flutter, Mid-FI Electronics For Parts or Repair


----------



## rnrmf guitarworks

A belated Happy New Year P-PCB!

Is there a time frame for the full Byzantium build doc to come available?

Thanks in advance 🤘🏻


----------



## Coda

The Kazoo build doc doesn’t match the PCB…


----------



## NickC

Plaid Preamp​part list? 🥳


----------



## Robert

NickC said:


> plaid drive part list? 🥳


----------



## Idlebeach

Howdy! Anyone got a parts list for the Golden Falk?


----------



## Robert

Parts list attached.

The PCB is laid out so you can use box film caps if you'd prefer, but the original used ceramic disc and MLCC caps throughout.


----------



## princeofyams

I know it's been shared already, but I lost it... Can someone link me the Electro-vibe Doc, pretty please.


----------



## jubal81

Robert said:


> Parts list attached.
> 
> The PCB is laid out so you can use box film caps if you'd prefer, but the original used ceramic disc and MLCC caps throughout.


Had to get this on on your recommendation. I'd like to use some different JFETs, though, so is it possible to get a schematic?
Also appreciate one for electrovibe mini.


----------



## NickC

thanks mr. @PedalPCB  I would really like to have the drill template too if possible!


----------



## Robert

Two stones with one bird, and whatnot.  

https://docs.pedalpcb.com/project/GoldenFalk-PedalPCB.pdf


----------



## NickC

Robert said:


> Two stones with one bird, and whatnot.
> 
> https://docs.pedalpcb.com/project/GoldenFalk-PedalPCB.pdf


I was referring to the plaid preamp! (replay button fail)


----------



## Robert

Oh yeah, I uhh.... I knew that.  😂

It's the standard 6-knob template.
https://docs.pedalpcb.com/project/125B-6_Knob_1.pdfTayda Drill Tool


----------



## Matopotato

Not sure if this is the correct thread for this...
I am in the middle of the Thumb Sucker and drilled yesterday and noticed too late that with a Bezel for the stomp LED, the Bezel comes high enough to touch the PCB and then the hole is est 4-5 mm too close to the stomp. 
I will take out the plastic isolation thingy in the Bezel to get some maneuver room, and shrink tube the LED leads to keep it out of "harm's way". And solder the wires from PCB to stomp(pcb) on the top side so that their wire shielding plastic keeps them away from the LED.
It's a workaround, but if you are going through build docs at some point you could adjust or make a comment. A smaller and shorter plastic bezel might make it a non issue...
Cheers


----------



## Robert

Which kind of LED bezel are you using?


----------



## Robusto

> Any wor
> 
> 
> Robert said:
> 
> 
> 
> The most popular lamp/LDR combination seems to be the 7371 lamp and 9203 LDRs.
> 
> There is a parts list here:
> 
> 
> https://forum.pedalpcb.com/attachments/electrovibe-parts-list-pdf.13526/
> 
> 
> 
> This is the drill template:
> https://docs.pedalpcb.com/project/1590BB-DrillTemplate_ElectroVibe.pdf
Click to expand...


Full Build Doc for the Full-Sized ElectroVibe anytime soon? 

Is there a schematic?

What is the bias trim for and what should it be set to?


----------



## Matopotato

Robert said:


> Which kind of LED bezel are you using?


Probably this: https://www.musikding.de/LED-Bezel-5mm-chrome-outside-reflector
It was part of the Das Musikding kit, so Klaus would know for sure.

Slight issues getting the board flat on the pots and SPDT and getting the LED pushed down properly, but it is no big deal, looks nice


----------



## Robert

Yep, those are too long to fit under a PCB mounted on 16mm pots, which is a shame because they look really nice.

This type fits with no problems.


----------



## Robusto

Can we _please_ get a doc for the full-sized ElectroVibe? After spending $30 on a PCB and a faceplate I hate to go blindly into the build with no schematic or part list or any explanation of how to set the trim pots. I might be able to figure it out, but I don't want to spend $30 to prove myself wrong. Thanks.


----------



## Robert

The schematic has already been posted, I'll try to get the rest of the info up for you ASAP.



			http://www.pedalpcb.com/docs/ElectroVibe-Schematic.pdf


----------



## Robusto

Robert said:


> The schematic has already been posted, I'll try to get the rest of the info up for you ASAP.
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.pedalpcb.com/docs/ElectroVibe-Schematic.pdf


Thank you


----------



## jeffwhitfield

Just got my Topographer board today. Based on the parts listed on the PCB, looks like there's some differences compared to the one AionFX has listed. No doubt the differences are deliberate...but does have me curious. Not sure how close you are to posting the schematics but, if you are close, would love to look at them to study.


----------



## Robert

The Topographer isn't _directly_ based on the IVP like the Aion project, it's based on another boutique pedal that is in turn based on the IVP.

Here's the schematic for your surveying pleasure.  _(that's right)_


----------



## benny_profane

Robert said:


> The Topographer isn't _directly_ based on the IVP like the Aion project, it's based on another boutique pedal that is in turn based on the IVP.
> 
> Here's the schematic for your surveying pleasure.  _(that's right)_


Is the hi/lo switch just a variable R12 then?


----------



## Robert

benny_profane said:


> Is the hi/lo switch just a variable R12 then?



This was the first version, before the Hi/Lo switch was added so I'm not sure... that _sounds_ logical though.


----------



## jeffwhitfield

Hola! When you get a chance could you post the schematics for the two Pro-10 pedals? Looking to add a few mods to them (Bass Cut and Mids for Green, Presence for the Blue). Thx!


----------



## daveybee123

Any chance the Mofeta schematic will be published soon? I've been thinking about getting it for ages now, but I like to map out what mods I make before I purchase a PCB.


----------



## BB Kassel

jeffwhitfield said:


> Hola! When you get a chance could you post the schematics for the two Pro-10 pedals? Looking to add a few mods to them (Bass Cut and Mids for Green, Presence for the Blue). Thx!


With all caution. I think there is no chance that these and the other schematics that are missing here will ever be published. It's a shame because it takes away a lot of the fun.


----------



## prsman

Any chance of getting the legacy docs for the tyrian and sanguine?


----------



## Robert

Here's the Tyrian.   
https://docs.pedalpcb.com/project/PedalPCB-Tyrian.v1.pdf
There hasn't been any significant changes to the Sanguine PCB.


----------



## PraisetheSunn0

daveybee123 said:


> Any chance the Mofeta schematic will be published soon? I've been thinking about getting it for ages now, but I like to map out what mods I make before I purchase a PCB.


Yeah I just built mine and would really like a schematic to troubleshoot with.


----------



## Big Monk

And chance for a refdes for the Electrovibe Mini?

EDIT: @PedalPCB I only ask because I'm thinking of doing a prototype of the Univibe build I'm working on with the ElectroVibe Mini and I need to know a few key components and their locations to make some parts swaps.

EDIT (Again!): It looks like all the Capacitor and Resistor numbers are shared between the big E-Vibe and the Mini. It appears the Transistor numbers are different however. I'm gonna go through the next few days and identify them and make a cross reference sheet.


----------



## Dan0h

Parts list for the Hwut 🤟🏼👍🏼🖖🏼🤙🏼🙏🏼


----------



## Robert

Hwut Fuzz


----------



## mdc

I would be very grateful to have a peak at the fuzz mutant/mutagen schematic if it's in shareable shape—I'm really curious about his version of that circuit.


----------



## cdwillis

I was wondering if the "Actual Overdrive" schematic was ready to go into the build doc now? I know it's just a modded tube screamer, but thought it was would be a good pcb to mod for my own tweaked TS if I could see the schematic.


----------



## Bricksnbeatles

Got a schematic for the double pendulum? Boutta order the PCB. Got a mod in mind that will involve cutting a few traces and want to verify a few things I suspect I’ll have to do


----------



## MichaelW

@PedalPCB No rush but are the build docs or schematic for the Seashore OD coming soon?


----------



## fig

EDIT: In truth, I have no idea, but these meme things are addictive.


----------



## ntuncer

Is it possible share parts list and drilling template of pro-10 dual overdrive please? I'd like to start ordering the parts and uv design.


----------



## Robert

I'll _hopefully_ get all of these posted later this afternoon or tomorrow.


----------



## Thumbpit

Could I have parts list/ build doc for the aloysius fuzz?


----------



## Robert

Pro-10 BOM and drill template, working on the full doc and the others today.


----------



## fig

Robert said:


> Pro-10 BOM and drill template, working on the full doc and the others today.


Raincheck on lunch then?


----------



## Big Monk

Not a pressing matter but any word on ElectroVibe Mini docs and a refdes?


----------



## Robert

MichaelW said:


> @PedalPCB No rush but are the build docs or schematic for the Seashore OD coming soon?



https://docs.pedalpcb.com/project/SeashoreOD-PedalPCB.pdf


----------



## Roberman

Robert said:


> https://docs.pedalpcb.com/project/SeashoreOD-PedalPCB.pdf


I built my seashore a few weeks ago using the pcb as my guide and I used polarized electrolytic caps throughout - do the non-polarized electrolytic caps change the resulting sound?


----------



## MichaelW

Roberman said:


> I built my seashore a few weeks ago using the pcb as my guide and I used polarized electrolytic caps throughout - do the non-polarized electrolytic caps change the resulting sound?


I was wondering that myself, although I did order some Nichicon Muse for the build. How does it sound?


----------



## giovanni

Roberman said:


> I built my seashore a few weeks ago using the pcb as my guide and I used polarized electrolytic caps throughout - do the non-polarized electrolytic caps change the resulting sound?


You mean you used polarized caps only?


----------



## Roberman

MichaelW said:


> I was wondering that myself, although I did order some Nichicon Muse for the build. How does it sound?


Fantastic low gain overdrive, but of a unique variety. A lot of the tones are similar to the chop shop but as you push the gain it goes into a sputtery overdrive/fuzz territory where the chop shop will saturate. A lot of interesting sounds in there. On mine, the germanium side of the clipping knob becomes apparent at around 3:00 and does the expected ge clipping thing when maxed out. I used a unizon 1n34a equivalent. 

If it turns out the NP caps matter I'll have to do some desoldering but that sort of work comes w the hobby I suppose


----------



## Roberman

giovanni said:


> You mean you used polarized caps only?


Yessir.


----------



## giovanni

I see you mentioned above that non polarized caps matter - I was gonna say the same


----------



## lonelylittlelions

Can we get anything for the Low Tide Mini? I know it's new but maybe just the BoM.


----------



## ntuncer

Robert said:


> Pro-10 BOM and drill template, working on the full doc and the others today.


Thanks for the documents.
 it would be very nice if you could share cap types cause the image doesn't show the value of the caps and I don't know which types they should be.

1       56p    
1        100p   
1       120p   
1        560p   
1       1n     
1       2n7    
1        4n7    
2        8n2    
4        10n    
2        22n    
1        27n    
1        47n    
3        82n    
4        100n   
2        220n   
1        470n   
4        1u Film 
3        2u2    
1        3u3    
1       4u7 
3        10u    
3        100u 

Cheers


----------



## Coda

ntuncer said:


> Thanks for the documents.
> it would be very nice if you could share cap types cause the image doesn't show the value of the caps and I don't know which types they should be.
> 
> 1       56p
> 1        100p
> 1       120p
> 1        560p
> 1       1n
> 1       2n7
> 1        4n7
> 2        8n2
> 4        10n
> 2        22n
> 1        27n
> 1        47n
> 3        82n
> 4        100n
> 2        220n
> 1        470n
> 4        1u Film
> 3        2u2
> 1        3u3
> 1       4u7
> 3        10u
> 3        100u
> 
> Cheers



The (Rough) Capacitor Type Rule:
p = picofarads = ceramic disc/MLCC (<10000p)
n = nanofarads = film box (<1000n)
u = microfarads = electrolytic (>1u)

These are rough guidelines, not rules…kinda like the pirate code…


----------



## giovanni

Coda said:


> The (Rough) Capacitor Type Rule:
> p = picofarads = ceramic disc/MLCC (<10000p)
> n = nanofarads = film box (<1000n)
> u = microfarads = electrolytic (>1u)
> 
> These are rough guidelines, not rules…kinda like the pirate code…


+1 Also, you can definitely tell which ones should be electrolytic because the silkscreen will have a circle and the leads close together. For ceramic vs film, just get ceramic if you can't find film (typically when the values are too low).


----------



## ntuncer

Thanks for the responses. In any case I'd prefer to know exact parts to prepare my shopping card properly without having any guess issues. Either a pcb photo with the values or a schematic could really help if it is difficult to prepare a doc.


----------



## mdc

ntuncer said:


> Thanks for the responses. In any case I'd prefer to know exact parts to prepare my shopping card properly without having any guess issues. Either a pcb photo with the values or a schematic could really help if it is difficult to prepare a doc.









The caps with polarity marked on the PCB (a circle outline with a square pad and "+" sign) will be electrolytics. Film or ceramic or mlcc for everything else; as mentioned above, generally people use ceramic caps for pF values and film for nF values. That's a rule of thumb, and honestly you can probably interchange bi-polar caps of whatever type at will and be fine. I don't remember pedalpcb BOMs specifying what type of cap to use in what position, but maybe they do?


----------



## ntuncer

mdc said:


> The caps with polarity marked on the PCB (a circle outline with a square pad and "+" sign) will be electrolytics. Film or ceramic or mlcc for everything else; as mentioned above, generally people use ceramic caps for pF values and film for nF values. That's a rule of thumb, and honestly you can probably interchange bi-polar caps of whatever type at will and be fine. I don't remember pedalpcb BOMs specifying what type of cap to use in what position, but maybe they do?


The problem is in Pro-10-BOM.txt there are only values and quantities of the parts so I don't know which value is for C120 for example. Anyway I will wait the proper documentation for this build. Thanks everyone for the information.

Cheers


----------



## mdc

Sorry, I'm not sure I understand your issue? You wanted to order parts before the board arrived, correct? I think it's been asked and answered a few times in this thread already, but just in case:

CERAMIC:
1 56p
1 100p
1 120p
1 560p

FILM:
1 1n
1 2n7
1 4n7
2 8n2
4 10n
2 22n
1 27n
1 47n
3 82n
4 100n
2 220n
1 470n
4 1u Film

ELECTROLYTIC:
3 2u2
1 3u3
1 4u7
3 10u
3 100u


----------



## giovanni

ntuncer said:


> The problem is in Pro-10-BOM.txt there are only values and quantities of the parts so I don't know which value is for C120 for example. Anyway I will wait the proper documentation for this build. Thanks everyone for the information.
> 
> Cheers


The PCB silkscreen will have all the part values printed on it, no need to map the cap/resistor number to a value.


----------



## ntuncer

mdc said:


> Sorry, I'm not sure I understand your issue? You wanted to order parts before the board arrived, correct? I think it's been asked and answered a few times in this thread already, but just in case:
> 
> CERAMIC:
> 1 56p
> 1 100p
> 1 120p
> 1 560p
> 
> FILM:
> 1 1n
> 1 2n7
> 1 4n7
> 2 8n2
> 4 10n
> 2 22n
> 1 27n
> 1 47n
> 3 82n
> 4 100n
> 2 220n
> 1 470n
> 4 1u Film
> 
> ELECTROLYTIC:
> 3 2u2
> 1 3u3
> 1 4u7
> 3 10u
> 3 100u


thank a lot! yes I want to order the parts before the boards arrive. Most of the time I cannot find them in one supplier so try to avoid to buy wrong parts.


----------



## Cvoxdog

Anyone have a mutagen parts list/text file?


----------



## Bricksnbeatles

Got the Double Pendulum schematic by any chance?


----------



## Hokinator

Not realizing the build docs were not yet up, I spontaneously bought a Double Pendulum board because I love playing with stereo effects and have been wanting to build a stereo trem. I think I've figured out the basic BOM from the values printed on the PCB, but I have a couple of questions: for the LEDs that activate the LEDRs, is there a particular color recommended? I used a 5mm yellow for my Abyss vibrato - any reason to use anything different on this one? Also, does it matter what specific diodes I use from the 1N581 and 1N414 families? I'm not really familiar with the difference between a 1N5817 and a 1N5818, e.g., (differing reverse breakdown voltages?) or whether any of those differences matter for this pedal. Finally, is there a good place to track down the offboard wiring for this one? Particularly the 4PDT board, which has 9 unlabeled contacts. Of course, I also realize I jumped the gun on this one, and I'm not in any rush. Feel free to tell me to wait patiently for the build docs to be posted. Thanks!


----------



## giovanni

For the LED you could socket it and try different colors. I am afraid I can’t help on the other questions.


----------



## giovanni

I have a build doc question: would it be possible to add potential mods to the build docs? I’m not suggesting to add all possible mods, but maybe tried and true ones like the ones Chuck suggests sometimes or popular ones that can be found on this forum or elsewhere online?


----------



## mdc

Hokinator said:


> Not realizing the build docs were not yet up, I spontaneously bought a Double Pendulum board because I love playing with stereo effects and have been wanting to build a stereo trem. I think I've figured out the basic BOM from the values printed on the PCB, but I have a couple of questions: for the LEDs that activate the LEDRs, is there a particular color recommended? I used a 5mm yellow for my Abyss vibrato - any reason to use anything different on this one? Also, does it matter what specific diodes I use from the 1N581 and 1N414 families? I'm not really familiar with the difference between a 1N5817 and a 1N5818, e.g., (differing reverse breakdown voltages?) or whether any of those differences matter for this pedal. Finally, is there a good place to track down the offboard wiring for this one? Particularly the 4PDT board, which has 9 unlabeled contacts. Of course, I also realize I jumped the gun on this one, and I'm not in any rush. Feel free to tell me to wait patiently for the build docs to be posted. Thanks!


The mono pendulum specs a 5mm red and a KE-10720 or GL5516 LDR, so I would assume this specs the same parts.


----------



## Big Monk

@PedalPCB 

Not build doc related but do you have an ETA for battery boxes?


----------



## GeorgeAsp

lonelylittlelions said:


> Can we get anything for the Low Tide Mini? I know it's new but maybe just the BoM.


----------



## iamjackslackof

Any ETA on the Plaid by chance? PCB has part values labeled, but not the corresponding part numbers, and no drill guide. Thanks!


----------



## danwojaz

@PedalPCB Could we get the Build docs for the Pro-10 overdrives?


----------



## Travis

Robert said:


> Pro-10 BOM and drill template, working on the full doc and the others today.


Are the drills the same to paragon build??


----------



## Robert

Travis said:


> Are the drills the same to paragon build??


The jacks are further apart.



			https://docs.pedalpcb.com/project/drill/1590BB-DrillTemplate_Pro10.pdf


----------



## ryland

Looking for the board wiring for the Double Pendulum.  Is there a similar board diagram that anyone can point me to?  

Thanks


----------



## Robert

ryland said:


> Looking for the board wiring for the Double Pendulum.  Is there a similar board diagram that anyone can point me to?
> 
> Thanks







If you want Mono -> Stereo operation you'll want to use switching 1/4" jacks and connect a wire from the *Tip* of the *Left Input* jack to the *Switched Tip* of the *Right Input* jack.    This will allow you to plug into the Left input only and get stereo output.


----------



## spi

Will we ever get a peak at the Pro-10 schematics?


----------



## Robert

Yep, full schematic will be in the Pro-10 doc.     I'll update the two split project docs at that time as well.


----------



## PangeaDestructor

Robert said:


> Yep, full schematic will be in the Pro-10 doc.     I'll update the two split project docs at that time as well.


This is probably getting annoying for you, but any idea of an ETA for the Pro-10 Tayda drill template as well?


----------



## temol

Mofeta ...? anyone?


----------



## Robert

temol said:


> Mofeta ...? anyone?



https://docs.pedalpcb.com/project/Mofeta-PedalPCB.pdf


----------



## szukalski

Is there a parts list or build doc for the Aphrodite?


----------



## Robert

The diodes are marked S1V (the original SMD marking) but pretty much any standard rectifier diode should work fine if you aren't feeling brave enough to tack on an SMD component.

(1N4148, 1N914, 1N4001, etc)


----------



## temol

@PedalPCB -   I'm just looking at Lowballer schematic - IC1.2 non inverting (pin 5) input goes to ground. I assume it should be connected to Vref?


----------



## Robert

I questioned that as well but that doesn't appear to be the case.


----------



## giovanni

That’s definitely unusual. It’s also unusual that there is no resistor between the negative input and the cap, maybe that has something to do with that.


----------



## Robert

PangeaDestructor said:


> This is probably getting annoying for you, but any idea of an ETA for the Pro-10 Tayda drill template as well?



This should do it.






						Tayda Electronics Drill
					

Tayda Electronics Drill Designer for custom enclosures.




					drill.taydakits.com


----------



## MGB

Hi guys,

I would like to place an order at Tayda this week-end if not early next week...

But since the build docs for these PCB's are still unavailable, anybody has the info for the following parts:
*Xenolith Overdrive* - Pot values (3x) + IC (1 & 2)
*Mutagen Fuzz* - Pot values (4x) + Q1 to Q3
*Hwut Fuzz* - Pot values (3x) + Q1-Q2 + Bias trimmer
*Pumbaa Distortion* - Pot values (4x) + IC + Q1 & Q2

I guess I should be OK for the remaining parts. We'll know when the build docs become available.

Thank you !


----------



## Robert

No formatting but here's the raw BOM.


----------



## MGB

Thanks a lot !


----------



## manfesto

Can the BoM for the Honeysuckle be made available?


----------



## jwyles90

@PedalPCB I know that these are relatively new releases, but do we have any ETA on when the Special K and Sproing build docs/schematics and drill templates will be out?


----------



## Chuck D. Bones

Can we get a schematic for the Unchained (Carl Martin Panama) please & thank you.


----------



## Robert

Chuck D. Bones said:


> Can we get a schematic for the Unchained (Carl Martin Panama) please & thank you.



It's in the PDF now.


----------



## Chuck D. Bones

Not yet it isn't.


----------



## Robert

It definitely is.


----------



## Chuck D. Bones

Maybe I'm looking on the wrong webpage.  I thought this was PedalPCB. 

Oh, I get it, now.  It's in a PDF, just not the one I can access.


----------



## fig

Now I have to look. Why is that?

It says “visible to everyone but that one guy”


----------



## Robert

Chuck D. Bones said:


> Oh, I get it, now.  It's in a PDF, just not the one I can access.



This file?
https://docs.pedalpcb.com/project/PedalPCB-Unchained.pdf


----------



## fig

You spelled schmatic incorrectly….oh wait.


----------



## Chuck D. Bones

Oh right, another Tube Fuzz Muff Bender, mark 3. 😜


----------



## Feral Feline

Robert said:


> This file?
> https://docs.pedalpcb.com/project/PedalPCB-Unchained.pdf
> View attachment 27109


No, not that one, the one on the page that hasn't been refreshed on my computer yet.


----------



## Jeffology

@PedalPCB  Will the building documents for the project https://www.pedalpcb.com/product/pcb453/ be on the site?
I have the board waiting to be populated )) or am I the only one who ordered this board?


----------



## jimilee

Jeffology said:


> @PedalPCB  Will the building documents for the project https://www.pedalpcb.com/product/pcb453/ be on the site?
> I have the board waiting to be populated )) or am I the only one who ordered this board?


The values are on the board, they’re tiny, but they’re there. 😁


----------



## Jeffology

jimilee said:


> The values are on the board, they’re tiny, but they’re there. 😁


Yes I know )) but it's always nice to have schematics to check and the drilling template is a big bonus also


----------



## Chuck D. Bones

The Unchained is an interesting circuit actually.  The active notch filter up front makes a variable depth scoop centered at 160Hz, making it more of a bass scoop than a mid scoop.  Then comes an asymmetric soft clipper with over 80dB of gain 😲.  It becomes very mid-focused at the highest gain settings.  After that is a treble-cut Tone control followed by a level control and an inverter to undo the inversion of the Tone stage.

With all of those opamps, the Tone stage could have been Baxandall.  Or the treble cut could be passive and use two less opamps.

I'm not convinced that the charge pump is necessary.  With the right opamps, headroom does not need to be an issue.  Looks like the max output is around 6.5Vp-p.

Another breadboard candidate.


----------



## jimilee

Jeffology said:


> Yes I know )) but it's always nice to have schematics to check and the drilling template is a big bonus also


Totally agreeing with you. Schematics are so helpful.


----------



## jimilee

Hey, is there a Plaid preamp schematic? It's a bitch to try to troubleshoot without it


----------



## Robert

There is, give me just a bit and I'll get it posted.   I'm working on a couple docs right now so maybe I can get that one done as well.


----------



## jimilee

Robert said:


> There is, give me just a bit and I'll get it posted.   I'm working on a couple docs right now so maybe I can get that one done as well.


Thank you.


----------



## Robert

jimilee said:


> Hey, is there a Plaid preamp schematic? It's a bitch to try to troubleshoot without it



https://docs.pedalpcb.com/project/Schematic-PlaidPreamp.jpg


----------



## jimilee

Jeffology said:


> Yes I know )) but it's always nice to have schematics to check and the drilling template is a big bonus also


I just happen to be thinking, the drill template will be the same as all of the other pedal PCB 6 knob pedals. Robert follows the same format with just about all his pedals.


----------



## Robert

That's correct, the Plaid is the standard 6-Knob (Type 1) template.

I'm hoping to have the build docs for most of the pending projects (aside from the stacked projects) done soon, I have about three more PCBs to verify then I'll be doing a doc binge.   I'm going to order parts to rebuild each of the stacked projects as well soon so I can take photos of the process and assembly.


----------



## Chuck D. Bones

You all should know the risks when you buy and build boards before the build docs are published.  I've done it once or twice and gotten away with it, but as Dirty Harry says: _"Do ya feel lucky?"_


----------



## jimilee

Chuck D. Bones said:


> You all should know the risks when you buy and build boards before the build docs are published.  I've done it once or twice and gotten away with it, but as Dirty Harry says: _"Do ya feel lucky?"_


For sure. I knew if I had the schematic, I could figure it out.


----------



## zgrav

If given the choice of having the PCBs available ASAP or not having them released until the build documents were available, I think most of us would opt for having the choice of being able to order the boards and then see if we needed to wait for more information before doing the build.


----------



## jimilee

zgrav said:


> If given the choice of having the PCBs available ASAP or not having them released until the build documents were available, I think most of us would opt for having the choice of being able to order the boards and then see if we needed to wait for more information before doing the build.


With the part values on the pcb, it really isn’t a problem.


----------



## zgrav

jimilee said:


> With the part values on the pcb, it really isn’t a problem.


I agree.  But folks are different, as seen by the many many requests for schematics and build docs.  People in that group get impatient.


----------



## mdc

jimilee said:


> With the part values on the pcb, it really isn’t a problem.



The schematics are super helpful if you're trying to troubleshoot, or (even moreso) decide if the circuit is something in which you're interested in the first place.


----------



## jimilee

mdc said:


> The schematics are super helpful if you're trying to troubleshoot, or (even moreso) decide if the circuit is something in which you're interested in the first place.


Most definitely. I’m really into schematics.


----------



## jeffwhitfield

thewintersoldier said:


> View attachment 27230


Gee...ever see the old 80's movie "Scanners"? I think someone is making that kid's head explode. Any second now it's gonna pop.


----------



## Jeffology

jimilee said:


> With the part values on the pcb, it really isn’t a problem.


If there are no mistakes on the pcb .... but what if some traces are wrong? How to troubleshoot the board? Schematics is absolutely necessary for this


----------



## jeffwhitfield

Jeffology said:


> If there are no mistakes on the pcb .... but what if some traces are wrong? How to troubleshoot the board? Schematics is absolutely necessary for this


Completely agree. Access to schematics are very, very important. However, things get a bit weird when it comes to clones of certain pedals. Can't always publish the schematics without getting into deep shit. Along with that, there's a lot of work that goes into publishing PCB's and the the documentation associated with each one. As such, we're not always going to get schematics right away with new PCB's. Even then, some circuits won't have any schematics released in order to avoid any legal issues. That's the risk you take though with any new PCB.


----------



## Feral Feline

When in doubt, trace it out.

Make your own schematic based off the PCB you receive. May Bog help you if the PCB itself has errors (unlikely with PPCB and most other vendors...).

I had to trace out a couple of PCBGM PCBs that were missing build docs...


----------



## jimilee

Feral Feline said:


> When in doubt, trace it out.
> 
> Make your own schematic based off the PCB you receive. May Bog help you if the PCB itself has errors (unlikely with PPCB and most other vendors...).
> 
> I had to trace out a couple of PCBGM PCBs that were missing build docs...


I thought about doing that, but opted against it and rolled the dice.


----------



## manfesto

@PedalPCB could the BoM for the Honeysuckle be posted?


----------



## crashguitar

@PedalPCB is the drill template for the Special K available? 

Would it fit in a 3-Knob Type 1 template? 
It appears to me that it might if the middle LED hole was drilled out to fit the toggle. 

Thanks.


----------



## Robert

crashguitar said:


> @PedalPCB is the drill template for the Special K available?



This should be it.

https://docs.pedalpcb.com/project/drill/125B-DrillTemplate_3Knob-Switch-1.pdf





						Tayda Electronics Drill
					

Tayda Electronics Drill Designer for custom enclosures.




					drill.taydakits.com


----------



## crashguitar

Thank you, sir!


----------



## markuus

Big Monk said:


> And chance for a refdes for the Electrovibe Mini?
> 
> EDIT: @PedalPCB I only ask because I'm thinking of doing a prototype of the Univibe build I'm working on with the ElectroVibe Mini and I need to know a few key components and their locations to make some parts swaps.
> 
> EDIT (Again!): It looks like all the Capacitor and Resistor numbers are shared between the big E-Vibe and the Mini. It appears the Transistor numbers are different however. I'm gonna go through the next few days and identify them and make a cross reference sheet.



@Big Monk  Any chance you had a chance to map the transistor numbers between the Electrovibe and Electrovibe Mini? I am prepping for a EV Mini build in the near future and referencing your extremely helpful thread and diagrams of EV mods. I'm planning on trying to implement most of the mods that are feasible/applicable to the EV Mini version.

I am also a bit stuck figuring out which transistors to swap since there's no EV Mini schematic to compare as of yet. I was trying to figure it out based on just the traces and PCB layout, but not sure I'm able to map those with confidence that way.


----------



## jeffwhitfield

@PedalPCB Can I get the schematics for the Wilhelm Overdrive? Got a tone knob I need to debug. Thx in advance! You rock! <<<---(subtle amount of ass kissing)


----------



## temol

Any chance for the Hwut schematic/build doc?

Thx!


----------



## Robert

https://docs.pedalpcb.com/project/Schematic-Hwut.png


----------



## temol

Hiwatt Fuzz has two switches - Filter and Fuzz. I assume that one swithch is effect on/off (Fuzz?) What about the other one?


----------



## Robert

The other footswitch is Filter.  

Since this went into a 125B (and uses a 4-position rotary) turning the rotary full CCW is the same as turning off the Filter footswitch.

I didn't feel like the footswitch brought enough to the table to justify cramping two footswitches at the bottom.       As soon as the SideEffect module is ready to go I'll update the PCB to work with that.

If you want to go fully authentic use a 3-position rotary (omit the position that has no capacitor) and break the connection to the rotary switch with the Filter footswitch.


----------



## temol

Thank you for the explanation.


----------



## manfesto

Could the schematic and/or BoM for the Dirt Dauber be posted? Hadn’t heard of the OG until I saw the Dirt Dauber, it sounds *epic*, would love to hit the ground running with it heh


----------



## Robert

manfesto said:


> Could the schematic and/or BoM for the Dirt Dauber be posted? Hadn’t heard of the OG until I saw the Dirt Dauber, it sounds *epic*, would love to hit the ground running with it heh



Here ya go.


----------



## manfesto

Robert said:


> Here ya go.


WHOOOOOP!!!


----------



## mdc

mdc said:


> I would be very grateful to have a peak at the fuzz mutant/mutagen schematic if it's in shareable shape—I'm really curious about his version of that circuit.



A gentle nudge...


----------



## Robert

mdc said:


> A gentle nudge...



Hey watch where you're stepping buddy, I'm standing here! 

https://docs.pedalpcb.com/project/Schematic-Mutagen.jpg


----------



## mdc

tysm!


----------



## Guilherme Collateral

Do you have the drilling guide for the Cannon Fodder MKI?


----------



## Feral Feline

Do you have the Caramilk secret?


----------



## playedincanada

Guilherme Collateral said:


> Do you have the drilling guide for the Cannon Fodder MKI?


I'm following this as there are no build documents for it and it's been out long enough that I've ordered it and have begun to build it.  Are the LED's supposed to be the non clear ones and 3mm with the Green and Red?  Is there a drilling template that takes these into consideration or are they for the inside and used for clipping?


----------



## Robert

The red/green LEDs are standard brightness diffused LEDs.    They're used as clipping diodes so aren't intended to be visible externally.

I'll get the rest of the info up for you shortly.


----------



## Robert

Feral Feline said:


> Do you have the Caramilk secret?



I didn't even realize there was a mystery until just now.


----------



## manfesto

Robert said:


> Here ya go.


Could the Drill Template be provided too? I was gonna try and combine a 3-Knob drill template with the bottom half of the Paragon Mini drill template but when I overlay the Dirt Dauber's PCB over the Paragon Mini PCB in Photoshop, it looks like the footswitch and LED spacing might be narrower


----------



## Robert

Yep, give me just a bit and I'll get it posted.

This is the first PCB designed to work with the SideEffect module, so you'll also have the choice of building it with a single footswitch that controls both sides.  (Long press, Short press)


----------



## manfesto

Robert said:


> Yep, give me just a bit and I'll get it posted.
> 
> This is the first PCB designed to work with the SideEffect module, so you'll also have the choice of building it with a single footswitch that controls both sides.  (Long press, Short press)


Don’t suppose this was still on your radar @PedalPCB ?

Totally understandable if you’ve been busy ofc, esp with the birthday contests!


----------



## Robert

Ahh I apologize!   


This should do it, but double check against your PCB before drilling just to be sure!   (It's late haha)

https://docs.pedalpcb.com/project/125B-DirtDauber-DrillTemplate.pdf


----------



## chico_science

Is there a wiring diagram available for Dirt Dauber or advise/reference to properly wire up the octave foot switch?


----------



## Robert

chico_science said:


> Is there a wiring diagram available for Dirt Dauber or advise/reference to properly wire up the octave foot switch?



Sorry for the crude drawing, just threw it together quick for you.


----------



## Billyhank

I know it’s new, but could I possibly get a drill template for the Pot and Kettle? Please. I’m shit at figuring out drilling. Especially with multiple switches and 5 pots.


----------



## Robert

Sure, give me just a bit and I'll post it.


----------



## Harry Klippton

Nice also looking for that one so I can get artwork started


----------



## Robert

Here ya go.   
https://docs.pedalpcb.com/project/125B-DrillTemplate_PotAndKettle.pdf


----------



## Billyhank

Robert said:


> Here ya go.
> https://docs.pedalpcb.com/project/125B-DrillTemplate_PotAndKettle.pdf


Thank you very much!!!


----------



## Alan W

Have parts been posted for that yet? (Pot and Kettle) I’m making an order list and would love to add these in.


----------



## Robert

This is what I ordered parts from.


----------



## Dan0h

Robert said:


> This is what I ordered parts from.


Awesome. I might be able to do this one without having to order any parts. 👍🏼


----------



## manfesto

Can the BoM for the Champ Stamp be posted? Also looks like it’s the standard 4-knob drill template?


----------



## Robert

Yep, standard 4-knob template.


----------



## manfesto

Robert said:


> Yep, standard 4-knob template.


Thank you kindly!


----------



## Feral Feline

Robert said:


> Sorry for the crude drawing, just threw it together quick for you.
> View attachment 28312


Stop apologising for your "crude" drawings, you did that in another thread recently, too — the graphics look just fine! 

Better than fine, they are clear and easily understood. A "Here you go..." would suffice. 😘


----------



## Robert

I know, I know, but they don't look as nice as I'd like them to.   

They're just quickly hacked together pics.   

But I do appreciate that.


----------



## fig

Do you have Cali 76?

I asked with a straight face too 🤌


----------



## Robert

fig said:


> Do you have Cali 76?



I do have Cali 76.   You want Cali 76?

I answered with a straight face too.


----------



## Robert

I'll send it to you but you have to finish the trace.....  I really don't want to.   

Even the Chinese cloners were too lazy to properly reverse engineer it... they just went with some DIY 1176 schematic.


----------



## Robert

Really nothing to it, it'll be a breeze, it just looks like a modified Ross Comp or something.


----------



## Coda

Robert said:


> Really nothing to it, it'll be a breeze, it just looks like a modified Ross Comp or something.
> 
> View attachment 28856



98% of compressors are, prove me wrong…


----------



## Robert

I cannot argue.   This one, however, must make up the entirety of that remaining 2% all by itself.

I think I was like 1/2 way through when I finally said f**k it and tossed it back in the box.   One day I'll drag it back out, but not today.


----------



## fig

I have no idea what it is, I just knew it had been mentioned from time to time


----------



## giovanni

Robert said:


> I cannot argue.   This one, however, must make up the entirety of that remaining 2% all by itself.
> 
> I think I was like 1/2 way through when I finally said f**k it and tossed it back in the box.   One day I'll drag it back out, but not today.


What’s the circuit topology, at a high level?


----------



## Robert

It's hard to say since the schematic is still incomplete.   

There are definitely 1176 elements in there, but I don't think it's a component for component clone by any means.  

This really is one of those times where you'd have to _really_ want to _build_ this for the experience for it to make sense... If you just want the pedal you should probably just buy one.     It's two stacked boards slam packed with SMD components on both sides.

At best, a through hole version would have to be much larger than the original pedal and there are a _lot_ of components in there.  I'm at 224 components with plenty more to go.


----------



## jubal81

Robert said:


> It's hard to say since the schematic is still incomplete.
> 
> There are definitely 1176 elements in there, but I don't think it's a component for component clone by any means.
> 
> This really is one of those times where you'd have to _really_ want to _build_ this for the experience for it to make sense... If you just want the pedal you should probably just buy one.     It's two stacked boards slam packed with SMD components on both sides.
> 
> At best, a through hole version would have to be much larger than the original pedal and there are a _lot_ of components in there.  I'm at 224 components with plenty more to go.


For me, this is definitely a case where it makes a lot more sense to buy one. I just got a Magma57 and it's flat out amazing. It made me drop all plans to design a vibrato pedal because I've got something better than I could make for $300.

If it were a rare, out of production pedal, that's kind of a different story.


----------



## Robert

I didn't start tracing the Cali76 with the intentions of cloning it, I had seen pictures and I knew what I was getting into.

What I wanted to see is how they adapted the circuit to work on 9V and what components they used...   The answer I got was a lot more complicated than I had hoped, which is why it went back into the box for now.   Realistically there are much better things to spend that time on right now.  

I still want to do an 1176 style compressor (don't mention the Nyle, it is not), but a Cali clone isn't likely to happen any time soon.


----------



## Feral Feline

fig said:


> Do you have Cali 76?
> 
> I asked with a straight face too 🤌


I do, an original big-box Standard (transformerless) version.


----------



## pliolis

Have you got the document for the super flare ,it is the only Pedal pcb project that has failed to work ,but far too many projects like this one without documents ,coming soon..................................................


----------



## Alan W

jubal81 said:


> For me, this is definitely a case where it makes a lot more sense to buy one. I just got a Magma57 and it's flat out amazing. It made me drop all plans to design a vibrato pedal because I've got something better than I could make for $300.
> 
> If it were a rare, out of production pedal, that's kind of a different story.


I feel the same way about the custom Revival Drive. I haven’t even cracked it open to take a peek. I’ve been on a self education jam, building many of the “overachiever” boosts and ODs (just planning the Snouse now) only to typically be able to dial in a similar, but better sounding to me, tone ,with the Revival. I can’t help but be super impressed with Origin’s design team. For my use, the Effectrode L1-A1 pushed the Cali off my board, but the Cali is also pretty darn impressive.


----------



## spi

@PedalPCB  Do you have a schematic for the large protoboard?

Right now I don't have voltage regulators--I want to see if I can wire it up without them and still get the 9V.  Or do I need to jumper stuff?


----------



## playedincanada

Robert said:


> The red/green LEDs are standard brightness diffused LEDs.    They're used as clipping diodes so aren't intended to be visible externally.
> 
> I'll get the rest of the info up for you shortly.


Thank you for the bit of info on the LEDs. I figured as much just with the way the tracing was on the PCB.  Any word on the build documents for it and the Cannon Fodder MKII?  

Thanks!


----------



## TheCrookedMan

Is a build doc for the Low Tide Mini in the works?  I'd absolutely LOVE to build one of these, but I've never built a pedal with stacked boards, and considering that the components seem quite difficult to source for the large version, I'd hate to track everything down and then have parts not fit.


----------



## Coda

Working on the Double Entendre currently. Looks like the drill template is a bit off...





The pot legs and the pot holes are off by about 5mm. The LED hole is also a bit off as well. The hole is too far away from the PCB for the LED legs to reach...


----------



## music6000

Coda said:


> Working on the Double Entendre currently. Looks like the drill template is a bit off...
> 
> View attachment 29978
> 
> The pot legs and the pot holes are off by about 5mm. The LED hole is also a bit off as well. The hole is too far away from the PCB for the LED legs to reach...


There is no Double Entendre Drill Template or your just being naughty!


----------



## Robert

music6000 said:


> There is no Double Entendre Drill Template or your just being naughty!



There was, but the control layout has gotten a revision since then so I pulled the doc.

The new PCB wasn't supposed to ship until I got the template updated.


----------



## Coda

Robert said:


> There was, but the control layout has gotten a revision since then so I pulled the doc.
> 
> The new PCB wasn't supposed to ship until I got the template updated.



…but I have a buddy that works for DHL and he grabbed me a handful before they were delivered…


----------



## Billyhank

Could I bother you for a drill template for a Celsius preamp? I’ve got a 125b drill template but that dang switch just doesn’t line up with the guide holes and I’m terrible at figuring out where stuff goes.


----------



## Robert

https://docs.pedalpcb.com/project/125B-Celsius.pdf


----------



## Bricksnbeatles

Robert said:


> https://docs.pedalpcb.com/project/125B-Celsius.pdf


while we're at it– I'm too lazy to pull out my celsius board and check; which position is which on the switch?


----------



## Robert

Up = High / Down = Low


----------



## Bricksnbeatles

Robert said:


> Up = High / Down = Low


Well that certainly makes sense 😂


----------



## Billyhank

Robert said:


> https://docs.pedalpcb.com/project/125B-Celsius.pdf


Thank you!


----------



## Joben Magooch

Maybe I've missed it but...build doc/part list/drill template for Pro-10 Dual?


----------



## Idlebeach

Howdy partners! Is there a build doc / parts list for the Schadenfreude floating around by chance? Thanks!


----------



## Robert

Idlebeach said:


> Howdy partners! Is there a build doc / parts list for the Schadenfreude floating around by chance? Thanks!








						Schadenfreude Distortion
					

Schadenfreude Distortion




					forum.pedalpcb.com


----------



## MichaelW

Hey @PedalPCB Any chance we can get the schematic for the Fingers Overdrive? Having some issues with my build and could use some clues. Thanks! (I ordered a backup board anyway hahah)


----------



## Robert

Heck no, because then if you fix it you won't want the second one you ordered.   

Absolutely not, I'm no idiot.


----------



## Robert

https://docs.pedalpcb.com/project/Schematic-Fingers.png


----------



## MichaelW

Robert said:


> Heck no, because then if you fix it you won't want the second one you ordered.
> 
> Absolutely not, I'm no idiot.


You're in luck, I generally give up if I can't find the problem within a couple of hours. I just don't have it in me when there's a big pile of other boards waiting to be built......  @Jeff C is my hero with his persistence!


----------



## Jeff C

MichaelW said:


> You're in luck, I generally give up if I can't find the problem within a couple of hours. I just don't have it in me when there's a big pile of other boards waiting to be built......  @Jeff C is my hero with his persistence!


😂😂


----------



## MichaelW

Robert said:


> https://docs.pedalpcb.com/project/Schematic-Fingers.png


Well I found one mistake right off the bat, rookie mistake (makes sense since I AM a rookie at this) I put the 1N5817 in backwards....swapped it out and it still doesn't work, sigh.....wonder if I toasted something in the process. Getting 9v on both sides of the diode.


----------



## Robert

MichaelW said:


> I put the 1N5817 in backwards....swapped it out and it still doesn't work, sigh.....wonder if I toasted something in the process.



As long as you didn't plug in the wrong polarity power supply that shouldn't have caused any damage.


----------



## MichaelW

Robert said:


> As long as you didn't plug in the wrong polarity power supply that shouldn't have caused any damage.


Yah, something else is wrong with it. Ok, returning this thread to it's original programming. I'll shut the F up and start a troubleshooting thread. (Or  wait for the new board   )


----------



## Betty Wont

Sproing Deluxe drill template please. 😍😘


----------



## Robert

https://docs.pedalpcb.com/project/drill/1590BB-DrillTemplate_SproingDeluxe.pdf


----------



## Snowcdh

Ok, I’ll ask it

You have the drill template for the Synchrotrem / Synchrowah?

Parts should be in tomorrow and I’m itchin to get building!


----------



## Robert

Snowcdh said:


> You have the drill template for the Synchrotrem / Synchrowah?





			https://docs.pedalpcb.com/project/drill/125B_DrillTemplate_Synchro.pdf


----------



## tcpoint

MichaelW said:


> Yah, something else is wrong with it. Ok, returning this thread to it's original programming. I'll shut the F up and start a troubleshooting thread. (Or  wait for the new board   )


I just started one, today.  Should finish it up, tomorrow.  I'd be happy to help troubleshoot.  Who knows, I might have to, as well.  I'm only doing a couple of mods that shouldn't change anything.  I'm balancing the JFETs (Chuck Bones style from his BD-2 mods) and I'm going to use 2N5087 and 2N5088 for the BJTs.


----------



## MichaelW

tcpoint said:


> I just started one, today.  Should finish it up, tomorrow.  I'd be happy to help troubleshoot.  Who knows, I might have to, as well.  I'm only doing a couple of mods that shouldn't change anything.  I'm balancing the JFETs (Chuck Bones style from his BD-2 mods) and I'm going to use 2N5087 and 2N5088 for the BJTs.


Looking forward to the build report! It's a straightforward build, I just probably did something stupid. I also had some questionable 2N3906's (which I soldered). I think I'm going to socket all the transistors next build, soldering in 8 transistors was probably a risky move.


----------



## Bucksears

Any chance for a drilling template/layout for the Recycler? 
I'm itching to get this project started.


----------



## Robert

Bucksears said:


> Any chance for a drilling template/layout for the Recycler?



It's the standard 3-knob template.

https://docs.pedalpcb.com/project/drill/125B-3_Knob-Type-1.pdf


----------



## Bucksears

Robert said:


> It's the standard 3-knob template.
> 
> https://docs.pedalpcb.com/project/drill/125B-3_Knob-Type-1.pdf



Thx!


----------



## mbenbranch

Robert said:


> It's the standard 3-knob template.
> 
> https://docs.pedalpcb.com/project/drill/125B-3_Knob-Type-1.pdf


Thanks for the update on the drill template, is there a BoM or schematic for the Recycler?


----------



## Robert

Recycler Overdrive
					

Recycler Overdrive




					forum.pedalpcb.com


----------



## mbenbranch

Robert said:


> Recycler Overdrive
> 
> 
> Recycler Overdrive
> 
> 
> 
> 
> forum.pedalpcb.com


Thank you!


----------



## Robert

I'll get the schematic (and rest of the build doc) posted asap.  The wiring is the standard scheme.

The Recycler is basically a Crunch Box without clipping diodes. (which coincidentally is one of my favorite settings in the Crunch Captain Deluxe)


----------



## mbenbranch

Robert said:


> I'll get the schematic (and rest of the build doc) posted asap.  The wiring is the standard scheme.
> 
> The Recycler is basically a Crunch Box without clipping diodes. (which coincidentally is one of my favorite settings in the Crunch Captain Deluxe)


Appreciate the background on the this one. I was clueless. I had never heard of Missing Link Audio, or the ZZ Top pedal but 2 friends with wildly different tastes  told me about it so I figured it would be worth checking out.


----------



## Robert

It's not a bad sounding pedal at all.   But then, neither is the Crunch Box.


----------



## Billyhank

Is there any way to get the Ample Alpaca bom? I’ve got nearly everything, just the protection diode is hard to read on the board. It’s a 1N400X just the last one is hidden. Unless it doesn’t really matter which 400X is used.


----------



## Robert

1N4004






						Ample Alpaca
					

Ample Alpaca




					forum.pedalpcb.com


----------



## Billyhank

Robert said:


> 1N4004
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ample Alpaca
> 
> 
> Ample Alpaca
> 
> 
> 
> 
> forum.pedalpcb.com


Thank you very much!!


----------



## mattburnside

playedincanada said:


> Thank you for the bit of info on the LEDs. I figured as much just with the way the tracing was on the PCB.  Any word on the build documents for it and the Cannon Fodder MKII?
> 
> Thanks!


Bumping for another vote for docs for the Cannon Fodder MKII...actually at this point just a consolidated parts list would be fine.


----------



## Robert

mattburnside said:


> Bumping for another vote for docs for the Cannon Fodder MKII...actually at this point just a consolidated parts list would be fine.








						Cannon Fodder MKII
					

Cannon Fodder MKII




					forum.pedalpcb.com


----------



## manfesto

Could the cheat sheet BoM for the Danae please be posted? Thanks!


----------



## Robert

manfesto said:


> Could the cheat sheet BoM for the Danae please be posted? Thanks!








						Danae Overdrive
					

Danae Overdrive




					forum.pedalpcb.com


----------



## Ctrl4Smilerz

Another request for Low Tide Mini, or at least a BOM. I searched the forums and this thread had conflicting information, some saying it's the same as the big version, and some saying it uses different caps. I know you need to use shorter caps, but want to know if there are any other differences before ordering parts.


----------



## Robert

I'll get it posted for you in just a bit.    The height of the electrolytics is the only difference aside from the male/female pinheaders to attach the PCBs together.


----------



## manfesto

Robert said:


> I'll get it posted for you in just a bit.    The height of the electrolytics is the only difference aside from the male/female pinheaders to attach the PCBs together.


Doesn't it also have two 100uF instead of a 220?


----------



## Robert

manfesto said:


> Doesn't it also have two 100uF instead of a 220?



Yes I believe you're correct, although a single 220uF at the correct height would work just as well.

I'll get the list posted as soon as possible.


----------



## DGWVI

Robert said:


> Yes I believe you're correct, although a single 220uF at the correct height would work just as well.
> 
> I'll get the list posted as soon as possible.


I just populated one of these last night... Luckily I thought to check my electrolytic heights 
Of course, everything I have on hand is much too tall


----------



## jimilee

DGWVI said:


> I just populated one of these last night... Luckily I thought to check my electrolytic heights
> Of course, everything I have on hand is much too tall


Naaa, just lay them over.


----------



## Cvoxdog

Any chance for the Whipped Cream drill template?


----------



## fgb1967

Hey,
Any chance of a Snouse Blackbox schematic?
I'm wanting to build that or a Protein, but would like to see the differences before I make a decision.
Thanks
Frank


----------



## PangeaDestructor

fgb1967 said:


> Hey,
> Any chance of a Snouse Blackbox schematic?
> I'm wanting to build that or a Protein, but would like to see the differences before I make a decision.
> Thanks
> Frank


Just checked in for the same request, my boost toggle is killing all sound and something else is off with it, a full build doc and schematic would be super helpful if available.


----------



## fgb1967

Actually, I'm also pretty keen to get a look at the Little Biastard schematic, since I'm on a Fuzz building kick at the moment


----------



## Many__Of__Horror

Hi all, is there a drill template available for the Hwut fuzz?


----------



## Route14

Is there a schematic for Cannon Fodder MKI? I can't seem to get the "havoc" sound out of the pedal. Both modes sound the same for me.


----------



## harry_hood

Any ETA on build documentation for the Danae overdrive? (layout, drill template, schematic etc)


----------



## Billyhank

harry_hood said:


> Any ETA on build documentation for the Danae overdrive? (layout, drill template, schematic etc)


Definitely second this request. Mainly for the drill template, I’ve got the board populated.


----------



## harry_hood

Billyhank said:


> Definitely second this request. Mainly for the drill template, I’ve got the board populated.


How did you populate the Danae board? The PCB image on the website has everything labeled as R1 etc, but I haven't seen a mapping of this back to the parts list.


----------



## Billyhank

harry_hood said:


> How did you populate the Danae board? The PCB image on the website has everything labeled as R1 etc, but I haven't seen a mapping of this back to the parts list.


The BOM is posted in another thread. And the board itself has the correct components/values on the silkscreen.


----------



## Billyhank

harry_hood said:


> How did you populate the Danae board? The PCB image on the website has everything labeled as R1 etc, but I haven't seen a mapping of this back to the parts list.








						Missing Build Docs / Schematics
					

Any chance for a drilling template/layout for the Recycler?   It's the standard 3-knob template.  https://docs.pedalpcb.com/project/drill/125B-3_Knob-Type-1.pdf




					forum.pedalpcb.com
				




It’s on this page.


----------



## harry_hood

Billyhank said:


> Missing Build Docs / Schematics
> 
> 
> Any chance for a drilling template/layout for the Recycler?   It's the standard 3-knob template.  https://docs.pedalpcb.com/project/drill/125B-3_Knob-Type-1.pdf
> 
> 
> 
> 
> forum.pedalpcb.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It’s on this page.


Thanks, I did see the text file, but I'm only seeing component values and quantities, but I don't see what the value of R1, R2, C1 etc if that makes sense.


----------



## Robert

The values are printed directly on the PCB.

This isn't shown in the preview image because revisions sometimes happen before the board is released.


----------



## harry_hood

Robert said:


> The values are printed directly on the PCB.
> 
> This isn't shown in the preview image because revisions sometimes happen before the board is released.
> View attachment 31632


thank you - was looking at preview image before - this fills in the blanks for me


----------



## Gsatterw

Any more build docs for the electrovibe mini? Also having trouble finding short parts - most of the linked parts in the parts list are out of stock...is 8mm diameter too wide for the 100 uF caps?


----------



## jimilee

Gsatterw said:


> Any more build docs for the electrovibe mini? Also having trouble finding short parts - most of the linked parts in the parts list are out of stock...is 8mm diameter too wide for the 100 uF caps?


Any electros 50v or less should be ok. You may have to lay them over on their side if you think they might be too tall.


----------



## Robert

@fig had some alternate part numbers, I can't find where he told me what they were though....


----------



## fig

I used this series for the 100uF, 47uF & 10uF. They are a bit pricey but good caps! I just used a random 1uF I had…they are pretty small anyway.



			https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Panasonic/16SEPC100M%2bTSS?qs=OE1iw1LrrPEAt2lEmEitdA%3D%3D


----------



## Deperduci

pretty much how I find parts that have a max size, go to mouser and use their search selections. always got pana's reg alum electrics being cheaper but nice seeing the organics go smaller


----------



## Gsatterw

fig said:


> I used this series for the 100uF, 47uF & 10uF. They are a bit pricey but good caps! I just used a random 1uF I had…they are pretty small anyway.
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Panasonic/16SEPC100M%2bTSS?qs=OE1iw1LrrPEAt2lEmEitdA%3D%3D


Many thanks. Wow, $1 per cap. Panasonic is proud of those.


----------



## szukalski

Is there a schematic for the Aphrodite? I’m not having problems but it’s one of my faves and I’d like to see why.


----------



## Robert

szukalski said:


> Is there a schematic for the Aphrodite? I’m not having problems but it’s one of my faves and I’d like to see why.





			https://docs.pedalpcb.com/schematic/Schematic-Aphrodite.png


----------



## Billyhank

Could I get the drill template for the Danae?


----------



## Robert

Billyhank said:


> Could I get the drill template for the Danae?





			https://docs.pedalpcb.com/drill/125B-DrillTempalte_Danae.pdf


----------



## Billyhank

Robert said:


> https://docs.pedalpcb.com/drill/125B-DrillTempalte_Danae.pdf


Thank you!!


----------



## Micklebot

Not exactly a missing build doc, but I wasn't sure where else to post this; the drill template in the build doc for the Wrectifier has a LED whole where the switch hole should be, and no hole for the LED, here's hoping I can manage to drill a whole for the LED without messing up the waterslide I've already laid down and clear coated on. Wish me luck...


----------



## PangeaDestructor

Got a schematic for the pot and kettle yet?

Or a close-up of the board's underside that shows the traces?


----------



## blackhatboojum

Any chance we could get a schematic for the Byzantium flanger?


----------



## Robert

blackhatboojum said:


> Any chance we could get a schematic for the Byzantium flanger?



Sure, it needs to be straightened up a bit but this is dumped straight from the project file.



			https://docs.pedalpcb.com/schematic/Schematic-Byzantium-WIP.png


----------



## blackhatboojum

Robert said:


> Sure, it needs to be straightened up a bit but this is dumped straight from the project file.
> 
> 
> 
> https://docs.pedalpcb.com/schematic/Schematic-Byzantium-WIP.png


Sweet!  Much appreciated 👍.


----------



## highway31

Any chance for the Whipped Cream _Build documentation?
Thanks,
KJ_


----------



## mik

Are the build docs for the Double Pendulum on their way?

The things I'm interested in are:

Circuit diagram + BOM
Guidance on setting up the LEDs + LDRs (are the LEDs also doubling as a rate indicator?)
Drill template
It looks like a really fun design, can't wait to finish the build!


----------



## Cvoxdog

Double Entendre new revision drill template available?


----------



## Robert

Cvoxdog said:


> Double Entendre new revision drill template available?





			https://docs.pedalpcb.com/project/drill/125B-2_Knob%20+%20Switch.pdf


----------



## Harry Klippton

Do you have the ample alpaca schematic ready?


----------



## Robert

Harry Klippton said:


> Do you have the ample alpaca schematic ready?





			https://docs.pedalpcb.com/schematic/Schematic-AmpleAlpaca.png


----------



## Harry Klippton

Robert said:


> https://docs.pedalpcb.com/schematic/Schematic-AmpleAlpaca.png


Thanks!


----------



## Idlebeach

Can I get the Champ Stamp schematic if it's handy? I need to make a post about the trim pot / if I need to adjust the j201..


----------



## spi

fgb1967 said:


> Actually, I'm also pretty keen to get a look at the Little Biastard schematic, since I'm on a Fuzz building kick at the moment


I'm curious about this pedal too.  Is it based on something?


----------



## Cvoxdog

Idlebeach said:


> Can I get the Champ Stamp schematic if it's handy? I need to make a post about the trim pot / if I need to adjust the j201..


The trimpot on that one biases the silicon transistor from what I remember.


----------



## benny_profane

Not seeing any docs for the Permanent Breadboard?


----------



## m0rsti

Is there a schematic for the mean green metal machine? Wonder what the mods are.


----------



## Locrian99

Might be asking early here but I'd love to see a schematic for the Mono>Stereo headphone amp, also am dying to know what the power amp projects are going to be I see a 12ax7 breakout board.... Just finished a ruby tuby on vero, would love to see some tube projects.   Lastly this probably isn't the right place to ask any chance of a Tumnus Dlx clone in the near future.. Thanks!


----------



## DGWVI

Any chance we could peek the schems for both of the Cannon Fodders and the Pumbaa?


----------



## chongmagic

Sproing Deluxe with drill template?


----------



## K Pedals

chongmagic said:


> Sproing Deluxe with drill template?



Yeah I’ve been waiting on that one too…


----------



## Robert

https://docs.pedalpcb.com/project/drill/1590BB-DrillTemplate_SproingDeluxe.pdf


----------



## K Pedals

Thanks Man.!.¡!


----------



## chongmagic

Robert said:


> https://docs.pedalpcb.com/project/drill/1590BB-DrillTemplate_SproingDeluxe.pdf


The components?


----------



## chongmagic

chongmagic said:


> The components?


Sorry!


----------



## chongmagic

chongmagic said:


> Sorry!



Just a list,.


----------



## Robert

Sproing Deluxe
					

Sproing Deluxe




					forum.pedalpcb.com


----------



## jimilee

Got a TSV808 schematic? My PCB will be here tomorrow, and I would like to see what the mods are.


----------



## sticky1138

The B-Side Fuzz PCB I received looks like a newer revision (since it has the EC voltages printed), and the build doc on the site does not match up.

Also, my PCB has a spot for a 100n capacitor, which is not present in the existing building doc's parts list or schematic.

Edit: For what it's worth, I socketed the 100n and it sounds identical with and without that cap.


----------



## ntuncer

Hello, I know it is new but could you please share BOM and drilling template of Splendiferous Overdrive? My pcb is on the way and I'd like to start for shopping and the design. Thanks


----------



## Robert

ntuncer said:


> Hello, I know it is new but could you please share BOM and drilling template of Splendiferous Overdrive?








						Splendiferous Overdrive
					

Splendiferous Overdrive




					forum.pedalpcb.com
				






			https://docs.pedalpcb.com/project/drill/125B-4_Knob-Type-1.pdf


----------



## ntuncer

Robert said:


> Splendiferous Overdrive
> 
> 
> Splendiferous Overdrive
> 
> 
> 
> 
> forum.pedalpcb.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://docs.pedalpcb.com/project/drill/125B-4_Knob-Type-1.pdf


Thanks a lot @Robert!


----------



## Coop

m0rsti said:


> Is there a schematic for the mean green metal machine? Wonder what the mods are.


Looking for this as well.  I was thinking about ordering up a board and unsure if I have everything I need to build it or not.  Schematic or even a component list would be handy if anyone has one.


----------



## Laundryroom David

Route14 said:


> Is there a schematic for Cannon Fodder MKI? I can't seem to get the "havoc" sound out of the pedal. Both modes sound the same for me.


Not sure if anyone's replied to this.  I find "havoc" depends on where the CFMkI is in the chain.  Guitar --> CFMkI gives me the biggest variation between normal and havoc.  Conversely, last in the chain and after a buffered pedal gives me zero havoc (sad).


----------



## PedalPCB

The Havoc switch is a passive feedback loop from output > input, a buffer in front swamps out the feedback path.


----------



## Route14

Laundryroom David said:


> Not sure if anyone's replied to this.  I find "havoc" depends on where the CFMkI is in the chain.  Guitar --> CFMkI gives me the biggest variation between normal and havoc.  Conversely, last in the chain and after a buffered pedal gives me zero havoc (sad).


I think that must be it. Thanks for the feedback! (pun intended!!!) I had it chained after my Boss tuner pedal. A quick test putting it first resulted in some squeally "havoc". I'll give it a full go tonight but I think you are spot on. I'm relieved to know there is no issue in the build and I can stop troubleshooting. Thanks again!


----------



## Route14

PedalPCB said:


> The Havoc switch is a passive feedback loop from output > input, a buffer in front swamps out the feedback path.


Thanks!


----------



## Robert

The MKII improved this by adding a series 1K resistor before the feedback is introduced to the input.

You can modify the MKI similarly by replacing the wire that connects the 3PDT to the IN pad of the PCB with a 1K resistor.


----------



## coltonius

jimilee said:


> Got a TSV808 schematic? My PCB will be here tomorrow, and I would like to see what the mods are.


I'm also hoping for this! In true Vemuram fashion, it seems like YATS.. (or YASoS?). It certainly carves out its own space in the bufferless TS category, I'd just like to see a schematic for comparison sake.


----------



## DGWVI

DGWVI said:


> Any chance we could peek the schems for both of the Cannon Fodders and the Pumbaa?


Bumpy bumpadoo, if it ain't no bother


----------



## temol

Can we see the schematic for the Jump Drive?


----------



## iamjackslackof

Any chance of getting the Kliche Buffer BOM and schematic? Thank!


----------



## Robert

Kliche Buffer
					

https://www.pedalpcb.com/product/pcb156/  https://docs.pedalpcb.com/schematic/Schematic-KlicheBuffer.png




					forum.pedalpcb.com


----------



## Laundryroom David

Route14 said:


> I think that must be it. Thanks for the feedback! (pun intended!!!) I had it chained after my Boss tuner pedal. A quick test putting it first resulted in some squeally "havoc". I'll give it a full go tonight but I think you are spot on. I'm relieved to know there is no issue in the build and I can stop troubleshooting. Thanks again!


Havoc is rad.  But even in non-Havoc mode, this is quickly becoming one of my all time favourite pedals. 👍


----------



## Route14

Laundryroom David said:


> Havoc is rad.  But even in non-Havoc mode, this is quickly becoming one of my all time favourite pedals. 👍


Agreed. This is a great Rat variant and sounds awesome in either mode. I have the Cannon Fodder MKII queued up and can't wait.


----------



## manfesto

Could the BoM cheat sheet be put up for the Horsemeat? Thanks!

(Figure since I'm putting together a Mouser cart for the big film cap it'd be good to see if there are any other "gotcha" bits to add to the order)


----------



## Locrian99

manfesto said:


> Could the BoM cheat sheet be put up for the Horsemeat? Thanks!
> 
> (Figure since I'm putting together a Mouser cart for the big film cap it'd be good to see if there are any other "gotcha" bits to add to the order)


Seconded.   Schematic would be cool as well.


----------



## proozenburg

Is there a BOM available for the Pro-10 dual ?


----------



## harmaes

temol said:


> Can we see the schematic for the Jump Drive?


And the BOM so I can order the parts before receiving the PCB.


----------



## Dan0h

proozenburg said:


> Is there a BOM available for the Pro-10 dual ?


----------



## proozenburg

thanks!


----------



## szukalski

harmaes said:


> And the BOM so I can order the parts before receiving the PCB.


There’s nothing special if you already have an inventory of standard components. Pots can be seen in my build report. 

If you don’t have such inventory.. can I recommend rounding resistors and capacitors up to ten for your next purchase


----------



## jimilee

szukalski said:


> There’s nothing special if you already have an inventory of standard components. Pots can be seen in my build report.
> 
> If you don’t have such inventory.. can I recommend rounding resistors and capacitors up to ten for your next purchase


At least 20. I buy them 100 at a time, sometimes 200 of the popular values.


----------



## szukalski

jimilee said:


> At least 20. I buy them 100 at a time, sometimes 200 of the popular values.


It really makes sense when you’ve got a backlog. At least for resistors, it’s not a big space issue.


----------



## jimilee

szukalski said:


> It really makes sense when you’ve got a backlog. At least for resistors, it’s not a big space issue.


Or if you’re planning a to have a back log of builds. I don’t know how many times I’ve just decided to build something and already had everything I needed. Pots are another story though. I’d love to be able to afford about 100 of each of the popular values.


----------



## temol

szukalski said:


> There’s nothing special if you already have an inventory of standard components. Pots can be seen in my build report.
> 
> If you don’t have such inventory.. can I recommend rounding resistors and capacitors up to ten for your next purchase


Oh Noooo.. we're trying to get a schematic here....  Stop it


----------



## LukeFRC

*Low tide mini*.... I'm sure it's workable out from the bigger low tide, but if you can stick something on it's page like "All caps need to be less than 5mm high and you need X connectors between the boards that would be super helpful!


----------



## MattG

How about the enclosure drilling template (pot and switch offsets) for the Jump Drive?  I'm guessing it's the same as at least one other PedalPCB board...

Edit: also, what diodes?  The PCB only says "GE".  Which ones were found in the trace?


----------



## Robusto

Is there doc for the VIIB? (Boss VB-2)


----------



## untamedfrontier

Robusto said:


> Is there doc for the VIIB? (Boss VB-2)


+1, biasing instructions would be nice as well if possible.


----------



## Seasoned Novice

Robusto said:


> Is there doc for the VIIB? (Boss VB-2)


I just found this.

https://forum.pedalpcb.com/threads/viib-vibrato.10182/


----------



## JUSS10

is there going to be a doc for the Argentum soon? I have mine built but need to know the bias and test points.


----------



## manfesto

JUSS10 said:


> is there going to be a doc for the Argentum soon? I have mine built but need to know the bias and test points.


It's probably 1/2 the supply voltage at the drains of the JFETs, at least as a starting point


----------



## JUSS10

manfesto said:


> It's probably 1/2 the supply voltage at the drains of the JFETs, at least as a starting point


Figured but I’ve seen some a tad lower than half. Thought I’d check. But yes, half will get the pedal going for sure.


----------



## kidchemical

Helping a friend troubleshoot his Danae / TSV808 build remotely. Any chance I could get the schematic?


----------



## GratefulEight

kidchemical said:


> Helping a friend troubleshoot his Danae / TSV808 build remotely. Any chance I could get the schematic?


Posted over the weekend; here ya go. 



			https://docs.pedalpcb.com/project/Danae-PedalPCB.pdf


----------



## MattG

I recently built the Jump Drive, but the bass pot isn't working.  Any chance I can get the schematic to help with debugging?


----------



## Locrian99

Just ordered my mystery meat board.   Any chance of a bom so I can get an order in for anything im missing (mainly wondering pots)


----------



## EZS

Second request for Mystery Meat BOM, Thanks!


----------



## Robert

Mystery Meat Overdrive
					

Mystery Meat Overdrive




					forum.pedalpcb.com
				




I used a 5K for the 4K99 and a 91K + 47K in series for the two 137K resistors.


----------



## Quirkey

Request for the schematic for the headphone amp?


----------



## Coda

This isn’t a missing doc request, but a kudos: the description for the Mystery Meat is hilarious. Well done.


----------



## Roberman

JUSS10 said:


> Figured but I’ve seen some a tad lower than half. Thought I’d check. But yes, half will get the pedal going for sure.


I'm assuming the J201 at the top left gets biased to 9v and the two at the bottom are around 4.5?  Mine really sings at those settings but I could be wrong. The lowest I could bias the top left transistor was 6.4ish and it was sounding off. 

Maybe someone else could chime in


----------



## Laundryroom David

Coda said:


> This isn’t a missing doc request, but a kudos: the description for the Mystery Meat is hilarious. Well done.


Well done indeed. I lol’d a bit of coffee out my nose when I read it this morning.


----------



## szukalski

JUSS10 said:


> is there going to be a doc for the Argentum soon? I have mine built but need to know the bias and test points.





manfesto said:


> It's probably 1/2 the supply voltage at the drains of the JFETs, at least as a starting point





Roberman said:


> I'm assuming the J201 at the top left gets biased to 9v and the two at the bottom are around 4.5?  Mine really sings at those settings but I could be wrong. The lowest I could bias the top left transistor was 6.4ish and it was sounding off.
> 
> Maybe someone else could chime in


The Argentum is running at 18v so bias will be at 9v.

 I finished mine yesterday, sounds as e expected. Lovely little pedal, really enjoy it.


----------



## Roberman

I


szukalski said:


> The Argentum is running at 18v so bias will be at 9v.
> 
> I finished mine yesterday, sounds as e expected. Lovely little pedal, really enjoy it.


yup...that's the sound. Thanks!

I had them all at 9v initially but something wasn't quite right, I think it's bc it was super late and I can only play so loud in my shop w the door open (it's hot here this weekend).

Having said all that, this thing is dope.


----------



## szukalski

Roberman said:


> I
> 
> yup...that's the sound. Thanks!
> 
> I had them all at 9v initially but something wasn't quite right, I think it's bc it was super late and I can only play so loud in my shop w the door open (it's hot here this weekend).
> 
> Having said all that, this thing is dope.


I'm loving it with a boost in front, or low drive into it.


----------



## Audiohub

Looking for a BOM for the Low Tide Mini, especially some info about the between-board connectors.


----------



## JUSS10

Is there a BOM or build doc for the Tellurian? I saw a build log posted. Just want to know what GE diodes I need as I plan to place an order today for components.


----------



## Laundryroom David

JUSS10 said:


> Is there a BOM or build doc for the Tellurian? I saw a build log posted. Just want to know what GE diodes I need as I plan to place an order today for components.


I think that may have been @MichaelW ’s build report and I think he used 1n270s. I am not familiar with the circuit, but it would be a good idea (I think) to socket the diodes so you can try different ones for different levels of clipping and compression.


----------



## Robert

There's some discussion about the GE diodes over here:


			https://forum.pedalpcb.com/threads/sarno-earth-drive.8674/post-151290


----------



## szukalski

Audiohub said:


> Looking for a BOM for the Low Tide Mini, especially some info about the between-board connectors.








						Low Tide Mini
					

Hey All,  Since I didn't see a build report for this pedal yet, I thought I would add one to maybe make life easier for the next person who comes along wanting to build this awesome circuit. This is an amazing pedal and I am so impressed and grateful that PedalPB figured out how to fit...




					forum.pedalpcb.com


----------



## Robert

Thanks!  I was hunting for that post.


----------



## MichaelW

Laundryroom David said:


> I think that may have been @MichaelW ’s build report and I think he used 1n270s. I am not familiar with the circuit, but it would be a good idea (I think) to socket the diodes so you can try different ones for different levels of clipping and compression.


No, I went with the 1n270's originally because that's what I felt like using But currently I've settled on my new favorite Ge diode, the Mullard/Phliips OA9. No clue what was in the original. I think from the thread @Robert referenced they might be 1N60P's


----------



## Dan0h

Equilux BOM? 
Also, will a 100mh work in place of the 47mh inductors? I accidentally ordered the small versions for tube breadboarding and they are the same footprint as the 47s. Just wondering what doubling the mh would do sound wise. If no good looks like I’ll be placing another order soon. Lol.


----------



## Dan0h

Dan0h said:


> Equilux BOM?
> Also, will a 100mh work in place of the 47mh inductors? I accidentally ordered the small versions for tube breadboarding and they are the same footprint as the 47s. Just wondering what doubling the mh would do sound wise. If no good looks like I’ll be placing another order soon. Lol.


So after doing a Google dive, looks like it will shift the Q range enough to not want to swap them out. Looks like the two of them are linked up so possibly already at 100mh together. Where 2 100s would put it at 200mh. Looks like the 47mhs will be added to a missing parts order soon to be placed.


----------



## Robert

Equilux Equalizer
					

Equilux Equalizer




					forum.pedalpcb.com
				




The inductors and MOSFETs are here:








						47mH Radial Inductor - PedalPCB.com
					

Inductor




					www.pedalpcb.com
				











						LND150-N3 MOSFET - PedalPCB.com
					

N-Channel Depletion Mode MOSFET




					www.pedalpcb.com


----------



## Harry Klippton

Updated drill template for the simulcast revision?


----------



## Robert

Harry Klippton said:


> Updated drill template for the simulcast revision?



As always, if something looks out of place let me know.


----------



## Feral Feline

The Rosemary build doc's schematic is a little fuzzy, in a bad way, unlike the circuit which is bloomin' fuzzy in a good way. 

Don't mean to be a prick or thorn in the side, but is there a sharper schematic image floating around the forum someone can point me to?


----------



## Robert

Feral Feline said:


> The Rosemary build doc's schematic is a little fuzzy



Download it again, I've just uploaded an uncompressed version.


----------



## Feral Feline

Robert said:


> Download it again, I've just uploaded an uncompressed version.


Thank you, sir, everything is coming up Rosie now.


----------



## MikeA

Robert, any word on the Argentum 1212 doc? (beyond the BOM, which is here: https://forum.pedalpcb.com/threads/argentum-1212.13976/)  I just ordered my PCB.  Thanks!


----------



## Tony_Pizza

Waiting on the build documentation for the Tellarium Drive. Any updates on when that will drop??


----------



## szukalski

MikeA said:


> Robert, any word on the Argentum 1212 doc? (beyond the BOM, which is here: https://forum.pedalpcb.com/threads/argentum-1212.13976/)  I just ordered my PCB.  Thanks!


There’s nothing special there, and you bias the J201s to 9v. Anything you’re looking for in particular?


----------



## Bricksnbeatles

Got a schematic for the Pendulum?


----------



## Fuzz Wizard

The build docs for the Insurgent Octave Fuzz would be much appreciated!


----------



## GratefulEight

Tony_Pizza said:


> Waiting on the build documentation for the Tellarium Drive. Any updates on when that will drop??


I did the trace on it and have built a fully working one; what info are you needing?


----------



## temol

Bricksnbeatles said:


> Got a schematic for the Pendulum?








						Missing Build Docs / Schematics
					

Since we're not trying to revolutionize the layout of pedalboards I've corrected the labels in the drill template.      Thanks for pointing that out.  :ROFLMAO:  Antithesis build doc is up now.  sooo excited for the antithesis. i'm not super up on boutique-y pedals so it took me a second but...




					forum.pedalpcb.com


----------



## fontoponto

Any info about the flock schematic and all the Victory style preamps?


----------



## Bricksnbeatles

Got a schematic for the XS Drive?


----------



## mralanmorgan

szukalski said:


> The Argentum is running at 18v so bias will be at 9v.
> 
> I finished mine yesterday, sounds as e expected. Lovely little pedal, really enjoy it.


I ordered a couple of these boards, but I haven't received them yet. I found the BOM online, but how do I know what components go where? Is the board labeled?


----------



## jimilee

mralanmorgan said:


> I ordered a couple of these boards, but I haven't received them yet. I found the BOM online, but how do I know what components go where? Is the board labeled?


Yes


----------



## mralanmorgan

jimilee said:


> Yes


Thank you. This is my first build without documentation, I really appreciate it.


----------



## jimilee

mralanmorgan said:


> Thank you. This is my first build without documentation, I really appreciate it.


Absolutely. The PPCB boards are all like that. You can find another board with the same pot layout for a drill guide. Robert uses a basic template layout for his boards. Makes things easier to build.


----------



## mralanmorgan

jimilee said:


> Absolutely. The PPCB boards are all like that. You can find another board with the same pot layout for a drill guide. Robert uses a basic template layout for his boards. Makes things easier to build.


This will be my first time trying to do my own layout on in a larger than called for enclosure as my friend wants something bigger. I'm very excited about this!


----------



## mralanmorgan

szukalski said:


> The Argentum is running at 18v so bias will be at 9v.
> 
> I finished mine yesterday, sounds as e expected. Lovely little pedal, really enjoy it.


Is this biased through the trimpots and how do I know when it is biased at 9v?


----------



## Robert

Measure the DC voltage on the drain of each JFET while adjusting it's corresponding trimpot.

You can use either the through-hole or SMD pad as a test point (whichever is more convenient), regardless of which type transistor you have installed.


----------



## mralanmorgan

Robert said:


> Measure the DC voltage on the drain of each JFET while adjusting it's corresponding trimpot.
> 
> You can use either the through-hole or SMD pad as a test point (whichever is more convenient), regardless of which type transistor you have installed.
> 
> View attachment 37185


Many thanks, once again. I apologize for all the questions and I think that should be the last of them.


----------



## MichaelW

Tony_Pizza said:


> Waiting on the build documentation for the Tellarium Drive. Any updates on when that will drop??


Do you mean the Tellurian? I built mine off the board values, it's pretty straightforward and low parts count. Awesome sounding low-medium gain drive.


----------



## bowanderror

Robert said:


> Measure the DC voltage on the drain of each JFET while adjusting it's corresponding trimpot.
> 
> You can use either the through-hole or SMD pad as a test point (whichever is more convenient), regardless of which type transistor you have installed.
> 
> View attachment 37185


Is this circuit sensitive to JFET specs? I usually socket SMD JFETs on an adapter PCB, but I'm tempted to just solder them directly if it's not picky.

I've tested & used a bunch of this SMD J201 batch, so I'm not worried about them being super out-of-specs or fakes.


----------



## szukalski

bowanderror said:


> Is this circuit sensitive to JFET specs? I usually socket SMD JFETs on an adapter PCB, but I'm tempted to just solder them directly if it's not picky.
> 
> I've tested & used a bunch of this SMD J201 batch, so I'm not worried about them being super out-of-specs or fakes.


I didn’t find any issues, it’s not a massive gain monster and biased easily.


----------



## mralanmorgan

szukalski said:


> There’s nothing special there, and you bias the J201s to 9v. Anything you’re looking for in particular?


How about the 680p...can I use mlcc or do I need a box film cap?


----------



## szukalski

mralanmorgan said:


> How about the 680p...can I use mlcc or do I need a box film cap?


I don't think it matters too much, I need to crack mine open to check what I used. I didn't care too much at the time.


----------



## mralanmorgan

szukalski said:


> I don't think it matters too much, I need to crack mine open to check what I used. I didn't care too much at the time.


Thanks in advance if you get around to it. Looking back on my B.Y.O.C. builds they used a ton of ceramic disks and 0 box film opting for mylar.


----------



## jimilee

mralanmorgan said:


> Thanks in advance if you get around to it. Looking back on my B.Y.O.C. builds they used a ton of ceramic disks and 0 box film opting for mylar.


It doesn’t matter which you use.


----------



## nickquack

Cheatsheets for Fordable Drive + Boost, Persian Red Apple, and Octarock Octave available?


----------



## NickC

+1 for Octarock Octave


----------



## manfesto

+1 on the Fordoble Drive, or at least the drill template? Thanks!


----------



## Ctrl4Smilerz

Chop Shop. So many people recommended the Chop Shop in my recent thread, that I figure I've got to build it!


----------



## Ctrl4Smilerz

Protoboard Micro too.


----------



## manfesto

Bump for Fordable Drive docs? Thanks!


----------



## DGWVI

I'd like to humbly request a schem for the OctaRock and Octuplet


----------



## Feral Feline

When is the schematic for the Line6 M13 going to be available?


----------



## DGWVI

Feral Feline said:


> When is the schematic for the Line6 M13 going to be available?


Everyone knows that that's just a rehoused and gooped Digitech RP100


----------



## KindCanuck

Could I at least get the drill template for the new Kliche Mini Special Edition? Schematic would be helpful, but not necessary. Thank you!


----------



## Robert

KindCanuck said:


> Could I at least get the drill template for the new Kliche Mini Special Edition? Schematic would be helpful, but not necessary. Thank you!





			https://docs.pedalpcb.com/project/drill/125B_DrillTemplate_KlicheMini_SE.pdf


----------



## MattG

For the Tellurian Drive, there is an active link for the build docs, but clicking on it returns a 404 not found error.  Not sure if that doc is still "coming soon" or if there was a mistake in publishing.


----------



## Robert

Give it a shot now.


----------



## MobyOctopad

Ctrl4Smilerz said:


> Protoboard Micro too.


Going off of the build docs for the test platform to piece together a parts list for the micro protoboard: I _think_ this kind of terminal block and DPDT on/on switch would do the job, but would be good to get confirmation on that. Plus the audio and DC jacks.


----------



## iamjackslackof

Is the schematic for the Dual Effects Loop Switch available anywhere? My preliminary searching of the forum shows some requests for it, but no schematic. Mine is already built or I would just trace the PCB.

Also has the Fordoble BOM been posted?


----------



## Kroars

manfesto said:


> +1 on the Fordoble Drive, or at least the drill template? Thanks!


The Arkaim drill template looks very similar (layout wise).  Think I’ll give that one a shot for the Fordoble.


----------



## Robert

https://docs.pedalpcb.com/project/drill/1590BB-DrillTemplate_Fordoble.pdf


----------



## ALPCDMD

Would it be possible to have the BOM for the Jack. Thank you


----------



## Robert

ALPCDMD said:


> Would it be possible to have the BOM for the Jack. Thank you








						The John
					

The John




					forum.pedalpcb.com


----------



## ALPCDMD

Appreciate it sir!


----------



## cdwillis

Robert, can you upload the schematic for the Chauffuer Overdrive (Schnobel Daily Driver), please?


----------



## DGWVI

Bumping for an Octarock schem. I've got one built up, but I'm having an issue with the sub octave and would like to get it sorted


----------



## Idlebeach

Can I get parts lists for :
Decadence Preamp &
Cleric Fuzz


----------



## Billyhank

Could I get a drill template for the Octarock please?


----------



## Robert

I'll get those schematics to you ASAP.







						Cleric Fuzz
					

Cleric Fuzz




					forum.pedalpcb.com
				









						Decadence Preamp
					

Decadence Preamp




					forum.pedalpcb.com


----------



## Robert

Billyhank said:


> Could I get a drill template for the Octarock please?





			https://docs.pedalpcb.com/project/drill/1590BB-DrillTemplate-Octarock.pdf


----------



## Billyhank

Robert said:


> https://docs.pedalpcb.com/project/drill/1590BB-DrillTemplate-Octarock.pdf


Thank you!!


----------



## Billyhank

Could I get the wiring diagram for the Fordoble please?


----------



## Robert

The diagram isn't drawn up yet but it's pretty straightforward.

+/- go to the corresponding lugs of the DC jack.

IN goes to Input Jack Tip
OUT goes to Output Jack Tip
Each jack grounds to their nearest GND pad

The two 3PDT breakout boards are direct pin-for-pin connections.

See this build report for an example:





						Fordable Boost+Drive
					

Very straightforward build, @Robert said it’s a little tight, and it is, so you should definitely put the 3PDTs in first, solder only one leg of each pot, and then get everything test-fit first before tightening all the nuts and soldering all the pots (which I guess technically you should do for...




					forum.pedalpcb.com


----------



## Billyhank

Robert said:


> The diagram isn't drawn up yet but it's pretty straightforward.
> 
> +/- go to the corresponding lugs of the DC jack.
> 
> IN goes to Input Jack Tip
> OUT goes to Output Jack Tip
> Each jack grounds to their nearest GND pad
> 
> The two 3PDT breakout boards are direct pin-for-pin connections.
> 
> See this build report for an example:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fordable Boost+Drive
> 
> 
> Very straightforward build, @Robert said it’s a little tight, and it is, so you should definitely put the 3PDTs in first, solder only one leg of each pot, and then get everything test-fit first before tightening all the nuts and soldering all the pots (which I guess technically you should do for...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> forum.pedalpcb.com


Perfect! Thanks again!


----------



## iamjackslackof

Bumping for the Dual Effects Loop Switch schematic


----------



## Robert

iamjackslackof said:


> Bumping for the Dual Effects Loop Switch schematic



There actually isn't a schematic for that one, it was manually routed freehand.

It's basically the same as this wiring diagram with the addition of two LEDs and current limiting resistors.






						2-in-1 Pedal Wiring - PedalPCB Wiki
					






					wiki.pedalpcb.com


----------



## spilla

Would it be pssoible to get the sproing deluxe schematic? Ive lifted a pad and cant work out where it connects to. Cheers!


----------



## LukeFRC

If the low tide mini docs are anytime soon I’m about to start my build (I’ll use the non mini ones with short caps in the meantime  )


----------



## LukeFRC

… drill template the same as other 6 knobs like Sea machine?


----------



## DGWVI

LukeFRC said:


> … drill template the same as other 6 knobs like Sea machine?


Yep


----------



## Idlebeach

Can I get the drill templates for Decadence Preamp & Cleric Fuzz? Thanks a bunch! I tried finding ones that matched but they didn't seem quite right.


----------



## Robert

Sorry for the lack of responses, we're just getting over a week long illness here.   Crawling my way back to reality now.   🤣

Quite a bit of shipping to catch up on, but I'll get these posted ASAP!


----------



## Harry Klippton

Robert said:


> Sorry for the lack of responses, we're just getting over a week long illness here.   Crawling my way back to reality now.   🤣
> 
> Quite a bit of shipping to catch up on, but I'll get these posted ASAP!


Feel better @Robert and fam


----------



## Phil hodson

Robert said:


> Sorry for the lack of responses, we're just getting over a week long illness here.   Crawling my way back to reality now.   🤣
> 
> Quite a bit of shipping to catch up on, but I'll get these posted ASAP!


Hope you get better soon.


----------



## Feral Feline

Take it easy @Robert, ease into 2023. 


Wishing you and your family a healthy year ahead.


----------



## Robusto

Projectile Overdrive -​


----------



## Morbidpale

Cleric fuzz: Bottom is the rat. Middle is the muff. What the heck is the up position? Crazy cool but whaaaattt?! Also is the schematic available so I can understand the filters better?


----------



## manfesto

Morbidpale said:


> Cleric fuzz: Bottom is the rat. Middle is the muff. What the heck is the up position? Crazy cool but whaaaattt?! Also is the schematic available so I can understand the filters better?


Bottom = Rat = variable low pass filter

Middle = Muff = a low pass filter and a high pass filter combined

Top = variable high pass filter

Basically a Muff tone control is a low-pass filter and a high-pass filter combined, so in the cleric the two filters are individually hooked to the on/on/on switch. It turns them both on in the middle, then only one or the other in the other two positions (a genuinely cool trick from JPTRFX that I haven’t seen elsewhere but would love to be better informed if I’m incorrect)

I love the high pass filter on the OG pedal (go-to mode of the three), it lets you tighten the bass and/or get *super* sharp and aggressive


----------



## Morbidpale

manfesto said:


> Bottom = Rat = variable low pass filter
> 
> Middle = Muff = a low pass filter and a high pass filter combined
> 
> Top = variable high pass filter
> 
> Basically a Muff tone control is a low-pass filter and a high-pass filter combined, so in the cleric the two filters are individually hooked to the on/on/on switch. It turns them both on in the middle, then only one or the other in the other two positions (a genuinely cool trick from JPTRFX that I haven’t seen elsewhere but would love to be better informed if I’m incorrect)
> 
> I love the high pass filter on the OG pedal (go-to mode of the three), it lets you tighten the bass and/or get *super* sharp and aggressive


So cool. Thank you.


----------



## jesuscrisp

I've never seen an SPDT on/on/on switch TBH so I doubt it's that. Genuinely curious about the schematic bit of this, let's see how "soon" build docs will be available....

EDIT: Also, apparently it's top position muff, middle position muff with more mids, bottom position rat.


----------



## Billyhank

jesuscrisp said:


> I've never seen an SPDT on/on/on switch TBH so I doubt it's that. Genuinely curious about the schematic bit of this, let's see how "soon" build docs will be available....
> 
> EDIT: Also, apparently it's top position muff, middle position muff with more mids, bottom position rat.


It’s a DPDT Type 2 on/on/on


----------



## jesuscrisp

My bad, idk how but missed that!


----------



## Billyhank

jesuscrisp said:


> My bad, idk how but missed that!


It happens. Lol, I’ve asked questions and as soon as someone answered I realized it was super simple and I totally should have caught the issue.


----------



## Robert

jesuscrisp said:


> EDIT: Also, apparently it's top position muff, middle position muff with more mids, bottom position rat.



It's not a typical Muff arrangement in the top position.   It doesn't go low-pass when turned CCW.


----------



## jesuscrisp

Robert said:


> It's not a typical Muff arrangement in the top position.   It doesn't go low-pass when turned CCW.


Well then youtubers once again suck at explaining pedals. But also JPTR still haven't updated the description on their site so...


----------



## Robert

I suppose it's entirely possible the youtubers are correct with regard to the particular unit they're demoing / describing.

The product description for these seem to be all over the place with very little to distinguish between the variations.


----------



## Billyhank

Could I get the Lycan drill template, if it’s available?


----------



## Robert

Billyhank said:


> Could I get the Lycan drill template, if it’s available?





			https://docs.pedalpcb.com/project/drill/125B_DrillTemplate_Lycan.pdf


----------



## Billyhank

Robert said:


> https://docs.pedalpcb.com/project/drill/125B_DrillTemplate_Lycan.pdf


Thank you!


----------



## Idlebeach

Can I get the drill templates for :
Cleric Fuzz &
Decadence Preamp

Thanks a bunch. I appreciate you!


----------



## jwyles90

Robert said:


> There actually isn't a schematic for that one, it was manually routed freehand.
> 
> It's basically the same as this wiring diagram with the addition of two LEDs and current limiting resistors.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2-in-1 Pedal Wiring - PedalPCB Wiki
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> wiki.pedalpcb.com


Are there drill templates available for the Fordoble yet?


----------



## Robert

jwyles90 said:


> Are there drill templates available for the Fordoble yet?





			https://docs.pedalpcb.com/project/drill/1590BB-DrillTemplate_Fordoble.pdf


----------



## Robert

Idlebeach said:


> Can I get the drill templates for :
> Cleric Fuzz &
> Decadence Preamp
> 
> Thanks a bunch. I appreciate you!



Decadence:


			https://docs.pedalpcb.com/project/drill/125B-5_Knob-Switch-2.pdf
		


Cleric:


			https://docs.pedalpcb.com/project/drill/125B-3_Knob-Switch-7.pdf


----------



## jwyles90

Robert said:


> https://docs.pedalpcb.com/project/drill/1590BB-DrillTemplate_Fordoble.pdf


Awesome, thanks!!


----------



## Onkelmike

Robert said:


> https://docs.pedalpcb.com/project/drill/125B_DrillTemplate_KlicheMini_SE.pdf


Is it standard KLON order?
Gain
       Treble
                Level 
Also is this going to be a limited run of a certain number of boards? If so how many?


----------



## temol

Can we see the schematic forthe Jump Drive?


----------



## Robert

Onkelmike said:


> Is it standard KLON order?
> Gain
> Treble
> Level
> Also is this going to be a limited run of a certain number of boards? If so how many?



That's correct, Gain / Treble / Level from left to right looking at the knobs.

There's no plan to discontinue at any time soon.


----------



## Harry Klippton

Is there a pot and kettle schematic yet?


----------



## harmaes

fontoponto said:


> Any info about the flock schematic and all the Victory style preamps?


Can you share a BOM for the Cobbler?


----------



## Chillums

VB-2 schematic?   Been curious about this one for a while now.... Did you use the BA6xx chips or just use more modern IC's?


----------



## Twrog

Will the build docs for the remaining Victory V1 pedals be added soon?


----------

