# Stockade Overdrive



## music6000

3 pedals in 1 Plus 8 Clipping & 8 Bandwidth options!
Mods: Battery & Stereo Input Jack.


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## music6000

Paint is Mazda Spirited Green.


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## geekmacdaddy

Beautiful. Did you match it, diode for diode? How do you like the pedal?


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## music6000

geekmacdaddy said:


> Beautiful. Did you match it, diode for diode? How do you like the pedal?


THANKS!!!
Yes, As per BOM. It would be Cool if the Boost was a stand alone as it only works with the Overdrive is Active.
It still a highly tweakable pedal with the Rotary knobs.

*UPDATE June 14th 2019 : *It now has Independent Boost thanks to the Man, ''PedalPCB''
It's just a reconfigure of the Footswitch Leads.


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## Robert

You could wire it up so the boost is independent.    I'll take a look at the schematic and draw up a diagram.


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## Allthumbs

very nice.  The rotary switches travel 360?  unlike the EQD that go about half way around?


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## Allthumbs

so you did your graphic after working with the switches?  I've laid my graphic out based EQD's.  Guess I'll need to have them in hand to do that
thanks for the infos


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## music6000

Allthumbs said:


> so you did your graphic after working with the switches?  I've laid my graphic out based EQD's.  Guess I'll need to have them in hand to do that
> thanks for the infos


UPDATED : I believe its standard pot rotation which is 315 degrees.
They both start at 1 & stop at 8, it is not continuous rotation.
It has some extra Clipping & Bandwidth options.


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## Allthumbs

ah.  Thanks for that.


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## music6000

Allthumbs said:


> ah.  Thanks for that.


Updated last message!.


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## music6000

For those who want the Battery option, the 3 Led locations have been raised 16mm above Drill Template in line with LED'S on PCB.
This is what  I used under the Battery.
The wires are longer & pass through the Middle to be soldered from the back side of the Centre Footswitch.
It is cut to the size of the Battery.
I used a 6mm Adhesive back Sponge on the Back Plate around 10mm larger in Width & Length as it forms a impression into the Foam.
It will not move once the Screws are in place.

I buy the Adhesive back foam in 400mm x 400mm Sheets from a local Foam & Rubber supplies shop.


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## music6000

This what I use if if Splined Knobs are not available. Make sure the piece of Cable tie is a firm fit, this is to stop snapping the spline tangs off.
For the 1P8T Rotary pots, the splined shaft is solid plastic so no Slit support is required. A 1/4'' Knob fits real nice with the sleeve in place
Mine are from WD Music products.





Cheers music6000


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## music6000

music6000 said:


> For those who want the Battery option, this is what used under the Battery.
> The wires are longer & pass through the Middle to be soldered from the back side of the Centre Footswitch.
> It is cut to the size of the Battery.
> I used a 6mm Adhesive back Sponge on the Back Plate around 10mm larger in Width & Length as it forms a impression into the Foam.
> It will not move once the Screws are in place.
> 
> I buy the Adhesive back foam in 400mm x 400mm Sheets from a local Foam & Rubber supplies shop.
> 
> View attachment 674


With the Battery option, The 3 LED's need to be drilled inline with the Led's on the PCB.
As is per Drill Template, the leads are bent so the  3 LED's are between the PCB & Footswitches right where the Battery is.


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## music6000

music6000 said:


> This is what I use if if Splined Knobs are not available. Make sure the piece of Cable tie is a firm fit, this is to stop snapping the spline tangs off.
> For the 1P8T Rotary pots, the splined shaft is solid plastic so no Slit support is required. A 1/4'' Knob fits real nice with the sleeve in place
> Mine are from WD Music products.
> 
> View attachment 675
> 
> Cheers music6000


Brass Sleeve :








						WD Brass Potentiometer Shaft Conversion Sleeve
					

WD® Brass Potentiometer Shaft Conversion SleeveThese small brass sleeves can covert a split shaft potentiometer to a solid shaft. Most commonly used to attach solid shaft knobs onto a split shaft potentiometer.



					www.wdmusic.com


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## Devoureddeth

This is a version I made that had switches which allowed you to switch between independent boost or overdrive on then boost, but honestly I found the boost pretty meh. Felix doesn't have anymore of these board that I know of but maybe future improvements. Also the size of this is much better. I have made so many of this stinking pedal including a boostless version in a 125b which is by far the best version.


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## griff10672

definitely a " mint " build !!    Love that green !


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## ThinAir

music6000 said:


> 3 pedals in 1 Plus 8 Clipping & 8 Bandwidth options!
> Mods: Battery & Stereo Input Jack.
> 
> View attachment 636
> 
> 
> View attachment 637




Looks great!  This one is on my list to build.


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## music6000

Robert said:


> You could wire it up so the boost is independent.    I'll take a look at the schematic and draw up a diagram.


It now has Independent Boost thanks to the Man, ''PedalPCB''
 It's just a reconfigure of the Footswitch Leads.


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## Paul.Ruby

music6000 said:


> 3 pedals in 1 Plus 8 Clipping & 8 Bandwidth options!
> Mods: Battery & Stereo Input Jack.
> 
> View attachment 636


How do you do the graphics? Is that a decal? Looks great!


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## Chuck D. Bones

Absolutely gorgeous, inside & out.


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## music6000

Paul.Ruby said:


> How do you do the graphics? Is that a decal? Looks great!


A4 Clear Gloss Sheet with Adhesive Back for Inkjet Printers. 
I use Photoshop for all my Graphics.


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## mywmyw

love it. very well done w the battery


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## Barry

Man that looks fantastic!


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## droneshotfpv

@music6000 , excellent build! I just finished building this pedal, and I have a question for you (or anyone else who can chime in). When looking at the PCB during the testing phase (after completing the build), I wanted to watch the Clipping LED's light up. I switched to that mode, and as I strum the guitar, 2 of them lit up, but the 3rd didn't. I switched around, switched gain settings, switched the rotary, boost, etc. 3rd one didn't like at all (unless it was SO faint I couldn't see it). I thought maybe I damaged the LED somehow, so I tested with my DMM, and it lit up perfectly. 
Is this normal? Looking top down on the PCB, it's the furthest left of the 3. 

Second thing is, on yours, when you flip the bright switch, is there a noticeable difference? For me, it's almost as if the bright switch does absolutely nothing at all when flipped. I tried at various volumes and combinations to see if it was working, and for me, I didn't hear a single difference when flipped. 

Here is the weird part, as far as I can tell, the pedal is working great, and sounds great, albeit with what I would consider a "need for more volume". It drives and breaks up well, sounds like I would expect when turning the gain up, but the volume seems to bottom out at some point (around 1:00) and doesn't add anymore volume after that.

What would you recommend I look for, if anything?

Thanks for your time! If I need to post this in a general area, I will.


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## music6000

Volume on mine is around 10.00 to 11.00 Oclock for most settings, This is typical with a ''B'' taper on volume to max out at 1.00 to 2.00 Oclock.

The Bright switch is very subtle. If you look at my numbering system with *Depth *1 being the most Bass *,* at 6, 7 & 8 you can hear it just.
I would change C6 - 68nF to around 10nf  & you should hear a bright switch.
If its too much try 22nf, Trial & error!

The 2 Led's only light up in *Clip* position 2 in the schematic, the Left Led will only light up in position 3 in the schematic.
It may be Position 7 for the 2 Leds on mine & 6 for the left Led or it could be Positions 2 & 3, i can't remember.
Position 1 has No clipping, that's why its the loudest with the least Gain.
So to Test, just strum hard & look at the 2 Led's to see which setting on *Clip *Knob lights them up , should be 2nd position & 3rd position should make the Left Led light up


Cheers music6000


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## droneshotfpv

music6000 said:


> Volume on mine is around 10.00 to 11.00 Oclock for most settings, This is typical with a ''B'' taper on volume to max out at 1.00 to 2.00 Oclock.
> 
> The Bright switch is very subtle. If you look at my numbering system with *Depth *1 being the most Bass *,* at 6, 7 & 8 you can hear it just.
> I would change C6 - 68nF to around 10nf  & you should hear a bright switch.
> If its too much try 22nf, Trial & error!
> 
> The 2 Led's only light up in *Clip* position 2 in the schematic, the Left Led will only light up in position 3 in the schematic.
> Position 1 has No clipping, that's why its the loudest with the least Gain.
> So to Test, just strum hard & look at the 2 Led's to see which setting on *Clip *Knob lights them up , should be 2nd position & 3rd position should make the Left Led light up
> It may be Position 7 for the 2 Leds on mine & 6 for the left Led or it could be Positions 2 & 3, i can't remember.
> 
> Cheers music6000



Awesome, thank you for that! I was wondering if that one LED may have been for a boost stage or something, but that makes more sense. I was trying to figure out the schematic (I am not the GREATEST yet at reading them, but can manage slightly haha) to see the stages, but got lost quickly. 

I will change that CAP out to see what the bright switch does for me, but makes sense I guess that it would be subtle. 

As far as volume, I think I was just expecting more, but also thinking about it, it could be the test setup I chose to use with it as well. Maybe my expectations for volume were also higher. lol 

Much appreciated for the advice, I will try this out!


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## music6000

droneshotfpv said:


> Awesome, thank you for that! I was wondering if that one LED may have been for a boost stage or something, but that makes more sense. I was trying to figure out the schematic (I am not the GREATEST yet at reading them, but can manage slightly haha) to see the stages, but got lost quickly.
> 
> I will change that CAP out to see what the bright switch does for me, but makes sense I guess that it would be subtle.
> 
> As far as volume, I think I was just expecting more, but also thinking about it, it could be the test setup I chose to use with it as well. Maybe my expectations for volume were also higher. lol
> 
> Much appreciated for the advice, I will try this out!


I had 2 things I didn't like that were an Issue that were fixed by PedalPCB.
1. The Bypass - Originally R16 was marked as 1M. Changing to 10K got rid of loud popping when switching from Active / Bypass.
2. Optional Independant Boost - the OEM Boost only works when Overdrive is On


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## droneshotfpv

music6000 said:


> I had 2 things I didn't like that were an Issue that were fixed by PedalPCB.
> 1. The Bypass - Originally R16 was marked as 1M. Changing to 10K got rid of loud popping when switching from Active / Bypass.
> 2. Optional Independant Boost - the OEM Boost only works when Overdrive is On


I did indeed follow the independent boost, which is a great feature. I love the idea of being able to boost other drives without NEEDING this one of the active, but also being able to activate it with this pedal as well.
This things sounds pretty mean, and I love it. It has definite dynamics that I personally love. It seems to have a little something for everybody with the options at hand. 
Just a curious question. I tried building a rotary switched DIODE selector mod for a TS808 clone once. This was designed to go with the particular circuit I was building. Long story short, the DIODE selector worked, but at stupid low volumes... the catch? If I took that rotary switch, and tweaked it just BARELY past the "selection" point, it would be perfect volume, and was that way for each selection. I noticed on this one, that if I do that same method, the result is a louder variant of the selection (but this one sounds normal without doing it, just LOUDER when I do it). Is there a reason for this? Just curious.

I will let you know my results after swapping that C6 and seeing what happens.


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## music6000

You probably used Diodes that had very low forward voltage that caused it to be low in volume.
As you rotate from one position to the next, you a breaking the connection so you are getting a ''No Clipping'' effect which raises the volume.


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## droneshotfpv

music6000 said:


> You probably used Diodes that had very low forward voltage that caused it to be low in volume.
> As you rotate from one position to the next, you a breaking the connection so you are getting a ''No Clipping'' effect which raises the volume.


I love this place, and the knowledge shared here. It's the first forum I felt like I could ask questions, and not be ridiculed for doing so. I appreciate your time and effort in answering my questions, and bringing things to light!

Yes, most of the diodes I used on that circuit for the 808 were low FV, generally between .31 and .42 . I was using BAT41's, 1n4001's, and a few others, as well as a GE set that were around .28. Makes sense when explained as to why. At the time I was stuck in a "low FV equals amazing clipping" because I had just learned about the Klon circuit and the use of GE diodes, with the lower FV.


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## Chuck D. Bones

This pedal (and most other TS derivatives) is basically unit gain after the clipping stage, so low Vf diodes will make for low volume.  Not the case with the Klon which has gain after the clipping and variable clean-bleed.  Things that sound good in one pedal design won't necessarily sound good in another.  Still, you gotta experiment and find out!


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## droneshotfpv

Chuck D. Bones said:


> This pedal (and most other TS derivatives) is basically unit gain after the clipping stage, so low Vf diodes will make for low volume.  Not the case with the Klon which has gain after the clipping and variable clean-bleed.  Things that sound good in one pedal design won't necessarily sound good in another.  Still, you gotta experiment and find out!


When I first learned about the Klon circuit, I of course was just beginning building and had no clue. I knew though later that the low Vf didn't always mean hot gain, and it was through pain and suffering that I found that out. lol I did just learn from you though that the Klon has gain AFTER the clipping and variable clean bleed, which I didn't really understand / know before, so thank you for that! I figured it was obviously special to the Klon circuit, but didn't know exactly how, so that adds another notch to my knowledge and understanding. (slow and steady as she goes! )
After my failed low Vf attempts in Screamer circuits, I just stuck with LEDs, and higher Vf diodes to get me those louder gain stages. I also discovered that I liked the results of using 2n7000's as clippers as well. 
My goal is to get well versed enough to construct my own circuit at some point, and I think this is the place to give me the knowledge and direction I need to do so. I appreciate you all!


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