# Celebrating the Autumnal Equinox with another pedal - The Mojito



## Chuck D. Bones

This Overdrive is heavily based on the BJFe Honey Beest, a Honey Bee with a JFET booster up front.  It was a collaborative effort with HamishR.  In his honor, I've cracked a tuber of Foster's Lager (yeah, I know, it's that wallaby-piss export stuff). HamishR had been advocating his modified version of the BJFe Model G; he sent me a copy of the schematics for that and the Honey Beest.  I finally got around to breadboarding his _Model the G_ and liked it immensely.  It's a fairly mild medium-gain overdrive with a nice fat vintage tube amp sound.  When I stuck on the Honey Beest's JFET boost up front, it took on a whole new personality.  The PRE-GAIN controls the booster gain, from 6dB to 28dB.  Dialed-down, it's very close to the _Model the G_ tone.  Crank it up and it roars.  PRE-GAIN was modded from the Honey Beest for more range.  It crackles a bit when turned.  The BASS & DRIVE controls are pretty much unchanged from the Honey Beest.  Turn the BASS down with humbuckers, up with single-coils.  We wanted more range out of the TREBLE control, so it was rewired as both a boost and a cut.  The boost side of rotation is really more of a Mid Boost, but that's ok, it sounds good.  I used MPF4393 FETs, but anything with Vp between -1.5V and -2V will work (J201s need not apply).  Like the initial design, the BA482 diodes were imported from Oz.  They have virtually the same V-I curve as the gate-source junction on a 2N5952.  At full-tilt, this sucker will push all three stages into saturation.  Or turn PRE-GAIN down to zero and pull back on DRIVE for a mild breakup. Got some TS tones in there as well. In keeping with my potent potables theme, I named this one _*The Mojito*_. Cool, smooth and not too sweet, not too fizzy. Vero layout available on request.  Check the date code on the vintage RCA CA3130. That IC was manufactured in March 1977.


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## Barry

Very nice Chuck, many more of these and you may need a stint in rehab!


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## jubal81

And the cool, crisp font to go with it.
Gonna have to give this a go.

BTW, where do you source those DC connectors? I could really use some of those.


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## Barry

jubal81 said:


> And the cool, crisp font to go with it.
> Gonna have to give this a go.
> 
> BTW, where do you source those DC connectors? I could really use some of those.








						Amazon.com: smseace 25Pair 22AWG 2.54 2PIN Female/Male Connections plug 200mm Red and black 2pin jst connectors JST-XH2.54-25.: Home Improvement
					

Amazon.com: smseace 25Pair 22AWG 2.54 2PIN Female/Male Connections plug 200mm Red and black 2pin jst connectors JST-XH2.54-25.: Home Improvement



					www.amazon.com


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## Chuck D. Bones

The Big A.  Search for:
*JJRC H36 H67*

I was gonna send a URL like Barry, but Amazon had imbedded too much info in the URL, including my blood type and shoe size.

Get the ones Barry recommended, better deal.


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## HamishR

Chuck really knocked it out of the park, to use a US sporting analogy. This thing is a MONSTER!  I have built my own and can vouch that it is very much like a Model The G if you keep Pregain down. Raise Pregain and yep, gritty midrange goodness roars from your speakers. It's a lot like stacking a boost and overdrive to get your sound.

Thing is, in the Honey Beest the extra gain stage is there mainly (I suspect) because the original Honey Bee has such a modest output. The Pregain the Beest is just a way of getting more level out of the pedal. The G already has plenty of level, so the Pregain takes the G from low-mid gain OD to almost a full-blown distortion pedal. Or you can use just a little Pregain to fatten up the G for a Strat.

Wonderful, Chuck.


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## Chuck D. Bones

Thanks, Man. Team effort.


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## Chuck D. Bones

jubal81 said:


> BTW, where do you source those DC connectors? I could really use some of those.



I should mention that the female side of the pair is small enough to pass thru the 5/16" hole for the power jack.  I solder the connector to the jack and then pass the connector thru the hole, then thru the 5/16" nut and tighten it all down.  I also put clear heatshrink over the terminals and solder joints.


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## HamishR

"Thanks, Man. Team effort."

Yup, there's no Me in team. Hang on a sec, yes there is, kind of....


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## HamishR

BTW if you think Fosters is bad you should try Emu Export. I don't think Fosters is even sold here any more - I never see it at the Bottlo. (Bottlo= bottle shop=liquor store) But strangely Emu is becoming trendy among the hip young things - my son drinks it. Emu is what tradies would have on a Friday arvo back when there was little else here in Western Australia. It's ok if icy cold but because they use sugar in the brewing (too tight to use proper malted barley for the sugar content) it can give you a mighty headache the next day if you overdo it.

I suspect the popularity of Emu is a reaction against the boutique beer thing. It would make sense if Emu was cheaper than the imports but it's not! Emu is kind of Western Australia's Budweiser but it still tastes vaguely like beer.


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## cooder

Excellent and a very mouth watering write up....! Great stuff!


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## zgrav

HamishR said:


> BTW if you think Fosters is bad you should try Emu Export. I don't think Fosters is even sold here any more - I never see it at the Bottlo. (Bottlo= bottle shop=liquor store) But strangely Emu is becoming trendy among the hip young things - my son drinks it. Emu is what tradies would have on a Friday arvo back when there was little else here in Western Australia. It's ok if icy cold but because they use sugar in the brewing (too tight to use proper malted barley for the sugar content) it can give you a mighty headache the next day if you overdo it.
> 
> I suspect the popularity of Emu is a reaction against the boutique beer thing. It would make sense if Emu was cheaper than the imports but it's not! Emu is kind of Western Australia's Budweiser but it still tastes vaguely like beer.


Pabst Blue Ribbon beer seems to have a similar arc with folks that are tired of seeing how many hops can be brewed in a microbrew IPA.


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## zgrav

*And I would really like to see the Vero layout for this board.   *


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## jjjimi84

Very cool, your write up is amazing and i love your work but I want to hear it!!!!


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## Barry

zgrav said:


> *And I would really like to see the Vero layout for this board.   *


Me too!


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## Barry

zgrav said:


> Pabst Blue Ribbon beer seems to have a similar arc with folks that are tired of seeing how many hops can be brewed in a microbrew IPA.


I don’t know how people drink IPAs I’m a Stout or Porter fan myself


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## zgrav

also seems like a few test builds with great feedback might suggest this would be a nice PedalPCB board.


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## Nostradoomus

Barry said:


> I don’t know how people drink IPAs I’m a Stout or Porter fan myself



Same. There’s a select few IPAs I can down comfortably (usually wheat or citrus styles) but  stouts and porters are where it’s at. My favourite is a local Ice Bock that comes out in fall time...clocks in at 10%abv, delicious.


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## daeg

Nice. I traced the Beest but never got around to building one for myself -- too much tinkering and overthinking.

I kept wanting to use a quad opamp and use the first 2 opamps for input buffer and parametric EQ (to dial in TS style mid-hump), the 1 stage for clipping, then the final stage as the output buffer. It turns out that JFET amplifier at the end is really what adds that soft touch and sparkle to the sound. Without it you just have the the stiff feeling Mad Professor SHOD.

The Treble and Bass controls you did are very interesting. I'd love to hear it.


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## Barry

Chuck D. Bones said:


> I should mention that the female side of the pair is small enough to pass thru the 5/16" hole for the power jack.  I solder the connector to the jack and then pass the connector thru the hole, then thru the 5/16" nut and tighten it all down.  I also put clear heatshrink over the terminals and solder joints.


I've some fit through and some have to be trimmed, which is basically snipping a flange off


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## Barry

Nostradoomus said:


> Same. There’s a select few IPAs I can down comfortably (usually wheat or citrus styles) but  stouts and porters are where it’s at. My favourite is a local Ice Bock that comes out in fall time...clocks in at 10%abv, delicious.


I've found a couple of local Coconut Porters that clock in that range that are excellent, I know coconut and beer sounds weird but it's really good


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## Nostradoomus

Heck yeah I’ve had a few of those!


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## jubal81

I'm making a PCB layout and I'll PIF the extras, if Chuck gives the OK.
If there's more than a couple people who want one, I'll hand it over to Bugg if he wants it for the store.


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## HamishR

Bloody hell Chuck - look at what you've done!


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## Chuck D. Bones

Actually, I like Foster's.  


Barry said:


> I don’t know how people drink IPAs I’m a Stout or Porter fan myself


I like pretty much all of 'em!  Even Michelob is palatable when served on tap.
I used to poo-poo flavored beers until I tried Rogue Chocolate Stout.  A now defunct brewpub in Costa Mesa made a coconut stout "The Patsy" with toasted coconut brewed in.  The best flavored beers don't taste like they were flavored.  And then there are the barrel-aged stouts.  The Force is strong with them. <(-.-)>

Here's the Vero.  
Some notes: X's represent cuts.  Ignore the red O, it's just a hole that came in the board. Next to pin 8 of the IC, bridge the two columns together on the solder side.  Do the same thing next to pin 4.  There is a cut right under Pin 5 of the IC so that pin 5 does not connect to the POWER trace.
All caps are film except C2 & C6 are ceramic, C3, C8, C9 & C15 are tantalum, C16 & C17 are aluminum.  I used silver-mica for C4, but ceramic or film are fine.  C16 & C17 fit pretty snug, so make sure you use skinny ones.  You'll need small form factor resistors in a few places, or you can (barf) stand them up.  Study the photo above.

HamishR also made a Vero layout.  His is a little easier to build and has room for C3, C9 & C15 to be film caps.


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## Chuck D. Bones

jubal81 said:


> I'm making a PCB layout and I'll PIF the extras, if Chuck gives the OK.
> If there's more than a couple people who want one, I'll hand it over to Bugg if he wants it for the store.


Count me in, Man.


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## HamishR

Oh yeah - I'd love one!

I guess I should post my layout because its better than Chuck's.    I have also changed a few bits here and there to make it sound very, very close to my Model The G if the Pregain knob is on zero. So you almost have two pedals in one - a G if Pregain is off and then wind in some Pregain for an increasing powerful distortion.  I'm a big fan of touch-sensitive lowish gain overdrives, and that's what this is before you touch the Pregain. It's unusual to me to have a distortion level pedal which works as well as this one does at lower gain. But then I'm biased.





Updated with a correction - thanks Zgrav!  Also this is my version of the Mojito.  Chuck's has a couple of differences in the Pregain section. You'll see them in his schematic.


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## HamishR

If you can, have a look on the can next time you get Fosters and tell me where it was brewed. They sell a Fosters in the UK which is apparently quite different from the Aussie Fosters even though it's supposed to be the same. I guess it's much like the Stella Artois which is brewed in the UK and tastes very different from Stella in Europe. I quite like both but they are quite different. The Stella brewed under license in Australia is just generic Euro-pils and tastes nothing like any Stella brewed in the northern hemisphere.

FWIW Pabst Blue Ribbon is quite trendy amongst the young pub goer here in Perth. We get Miller, Pabst, Buds, Rolling Rock, Sam Adams and Coors here and I really don't know why you would buy them when there is much better available locally and imported. For the record the only beer I have ever left in a pub unfinished in my life was Buds at a bar in San Francisco. I asked the barman for a pint of the most popular beer he sold in his bar and that is what I got. When I later saw a Laundromat/Bar later in San Francisco (brilliant idea!) called "Buds and Suds" I wondered how you would tell the difference.


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## Chuck D. Bones

Hamish with his B-taper pots ?

The Foster's I buy here now is brewed in the US.  Back in the day, it came from Oz.  I'd take one on a backpack trip and save it for the perfect spot, usually a lake above the tree-line in the Sierras.  The steel can doubled as a source for repair parts for stoves and such.


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## HamishR

Last December I was in Austria and we went to a biathlon meet in Hochfilzen. We saw four races over two days and as it was obviously below 1C they didn't need any fridges for the beer. This is unheard of for a bloke from Australia. Beer on a shelf?? We like our beer stupid cold here.  So I used the snow as a fridge for my beer. You just can't do that in Perth!

And maybe I like B-taper pots because I prefer beer-taper.


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## phi1

This is awesome. I love BJF designs and everything written up here sounds even better, can’t wait to try it out on vero. Thanks guys!


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## music6000

With all this Honey Beest & Beer Talk, I came up with this Mockup :
It's name comes from a Beer with Honey
By the way, I'm a Teetotaler!


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## zgrav

I was wondering if Honey Beer was also a fitting name given the informed conversation we have been having about beer.  Or something with Mead in the name.  Mojito is really good, though.  Fresh and biting.


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## HamishR

I have a pedal based on the Honey Beest I called the Honey Bear. Honey Beer is good though!


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## music6000

music6000 said:


> With all this Honey Beest & Beer Talk, I came up with this Mockup :
> It's name comes from a Beer with Honey
> By the way, I'm a Teetotaler!
> 
> View attachment 6466


This is my homage to the Bearfoot style Scribble!


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## Chuck D. Bones

If you have trouble sourcing BA482 diodes, sub anything with a high Vf.

BA283
any BJT E-B (do not connect C)
any JFET G-D&S

A series pair of Ge diodes might work too, haven't tried it.


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## Chuck D. Bones

It has come to my attention that C25K pots are hard to come by since the demise of Mammoth Electronics.  You can use a C50K for the PRE-GAIN pot and connect a 47K resistor from pin 1 to pin 3.  The range and feel of the PRE-GAIN pot will be very close to using a C25K.

You'll notice that Hamish changed a couple of capacitor values in the BASS control circuit.  C7 affects the freq response when BASS is below noon; C8 influences the freq response when BASS is above noon.  Reducing C7 affects mainly the midrange.  

C2 is an RF filter and can be anything up to about 330pF before you'll hear any difference.


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## HamishR

Yeah - sorry, I should have made that clearer. I called mine Mojito II because It's slightly different from Chuck's.

I have a bag of C25K pots I bought from Mouser. When we were working out details for this circuit I used 1N4001s instead of 2N5952s as clipping diodes because I didn't want to use up my stash of Jfets and found that I actually really like the sound. The 2N5952s make excellent diodes though. They sound slightly clearer and less aggressive but the difference is slight. The 1N4001s have a little bit more attack to them. FWIW I have tried BAT41s there but they killed too much signal.

Chuck has helped me bring my pedals to another level. His knowledge is phenomenal. But more than that it's how happily he shares his knowledge which makes this forum fantastic. It's not just Chuck either, but his help has been particularly amazing for me.


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## Barry

music6000 said:


> With all this Honey Beest & Beer Talk, I came up with this Mockup :
> It's name comes from a Beer with Honey
> By the way, I'm a Teetotaler!
> 
> View attachment 6466


Teetotaler? I thought you were Australian!


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## Chuck D. Bones

I just demo'ed this for a friend and his first question was "Can you add a stomp switch to kick the Boost on and off?"  His second question was "How soon can I get one?"


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## music6000

Chuck said : I just demo'ed this for a friend and his first question was "Can you add a stomp switch to kick the Boost on and off?" His second question was "How soon can I get one?" 

It took some reworking but it can be done!


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## Chuck D. Bones

I don't know where you buy your stomp switches, but the ones I have will not fit that close to the corner.  Maybe you could have stretched the box out to 1590BB dimensions. 

Nice knobs, though.


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## music6000

https://lovemyswitches.com/3pdt-latched-foot-switch-low-profile-solder-lugs/


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## Chuck D. Bones

And here I was thinking it was all a photoshop trick.  I did use one of those low-profile switches once to solve a fit problem.


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## HamishR

I'm kinda torn... I love the extra gain stage but keep finding myself turning the Pregain right down, in which case I may as well just use my regular G pedal - which is my favourite OD right now - and keep things simple. I think being able to footswitch the Pregain in and out may be the answer.

I needed Chuck's help to get the G to where it was as good as it can be so was surprised when Chuck said he had built one and liked it only to find he had of course added another gain stage!

So I think I'll stick with my G pedal until I can get the footswitch worked out. Having a pedal like the G with Chuck's extra gain stage of the Mojito on a separate switch would be perfect.


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## jubal81

Talked it over with Chuck and I'm going to add the pre-gain foot switch to the layout for a 1590bb box. Chuck also gave me a workaround to use a 50KC pot instead of the now-hard-to-find 25KC.

Fingers crossed, should have those in a few weeks.


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## Nostradoomus

jubal81 said:


> Talked it over with Chuck and I'm going to add the pre-gain foot switch to the layout for a 1590bb box. Chuck also gave me a workaround to use a 50KC pot instead of the now-hard-to-find 25KC.
> 
> Fingers crossed, should have those in a few weeks.



Sweet! I’m making an SMD/through hole mash up version haha


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## jubal81

Nostradoomus said:


> Sweet! I’m making an SMD/through hole mash up version haha



I prefer SMD for semis, but the only SMD pads on my layout will be for the JFETs, which will also have a TH footprint so either SMD or TH JFETs can be soldered directly to the PCB.
It will also be compatible with the PedalPCB footswitch PCBs.


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## zgrav

are you looking at a pre-gain bypass of the JFET with the footswitch?  or just switching to a unity setting?  

also -- how different is the feel of the pre-gain pot if you use a linear taper 25K?  not enough control for the most saturated part of the rotation?


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## Nostradoomus

jubal81 said:


> I prefer SMD for semis, but the only SMD pads on my layout will be for the JFETs, which will also have a TH footprint so either SMD or TH JFETs can be soldered directly to the PCB.
> It will also be compatible with the PedalPCB footswitch PCBs.



Sweet! Same here on the footswitch breakout. Mines opposite but similar...all SMD caps, resistors, 4393s...through hole diodes and IC and maybe some caps (finding 1uf smd that aren’t piezoelectric is a pain). It’ll be cool to compare!


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## music6000

jubal81 said:


> Talked it over with Chuck and I'm going to add the pre-gain foot switch to the layout for a 1590bb box. Chuck also gave me a workaround to use a 50KC pot instead of the now-hard-to-find 25KC.
> 
> Fingers crossed, should have those in a few weeks.


For real estate purposes, 1590BB standing upright would be the best option :


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## Chuck D. Bones

zgrav said:


> are you looking at a pre-gain bypass of the JFET with the footswitch?  or just switching to a unity setting?
> 
> also -- how different is the feel of the pre-gain pot if you use a linear taper 25K?  not enough control for the most saturated part of the rotation?



I should have answered more clearly.  The footswitch is in series with C3.  With C3 disconnected, the Booster gain is ~6dB.  I think this is the cleanest approach, and is close enough to bypassing the boost stage.

C50K with 47K in parallel has almost the exact same taper as C25K in this circuit.

Here's a snippet:


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## music6000

music6000 said:


> For real estate purposes, 1590BB standing upright would be the best option :
> 
> View attachment 6533


This matches the PedalPCB Arkaim Fuzz layout minus Toggle switch!


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## zgrav

HamishR said:


> Oh yeah - I'd love one!
> 
> I guess I should post my layout because its better than Chuck's.    I have also changed a few bits here and there to make it sound very, very close to my Model The G if the Pregain knob is on zero. So you almost have two pedals in one - a G if Pregain is off and then wind in some Pregain for an increasing powerful distortion.  I'm a big fan of touch-sensitive lowish gain overdrives, and that's what this is before you touch the Pregain. It's unusual to me to have a distortion level pedal which works as well as this one does at lower gain. But then I'm biased.
> 
> View attachment 6462


I only see 6 links in the vero for this project unless there are 2 connections on 10 D.   Is it 6 links or 7?


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## Chuck D. Bones

HamishR said:


> I'm kinda torn... I love the extra gain stage but keep finding myself turning the Pregain right down, in which case I may as well just use my regular G pedal - which is my favourite OD right now - and keep things simple. I think being able to footswitch the Pregain in and out may be the answer.
> 
> I needed Chuck's help to get the G to where it was as good as it can be so was surprised when Chuck said he had built one and liked it only to find he had of course added another gain stage!
> 
> So I think I'll stick with my G pedal until I can get the footswitch worked out. Having a pedal like the G with Chuck's extra gain stage of the Mojito on a separate switch would be perfect.



I originally built the breadboard to your Model the G schematic.  Played it and liked it.  Then I added the booster, similar to the Honey Beest and liked that too.  I definitely use the PRE-GAIN = 0 setting.  For thickening up the tone and adding some mild break-up, that nails it.  For my buddy's demo, I started with everything at noon except PRE-GAIN was at zero.  Dialed-in a nice rhythm tone, then brought up the PRE-GAIN to the desired dirty tone.  Rolling the guitar's volume down brought the tone back to the PRE-GAIN = 0 sound.


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## HamishR

Aha!  I'm glad you got to hear it without the extra stage too.  I can't do stuff like that - you know, think "oh I'll just add another gain stage..".   

But then when my son asks for a photo for his CV I get the studio lights out and do it properly because that's what I do. It must be pretty straightforward for you to modify this stuff. My brain will never work that way well enough - you have no idea how much concentration I need to muster to do a layout!

Speaking of which: Zgrav you are correct - only 6 links.  I had another but got rid of it and didn't update the layout - sorry! I'll update it.

Then I think I'll look at building a Mojito with the Pregain on a separate footswitch and stick it in a 1590BB. The Pregain is very cool.


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## jubal81

Coming along nicely. Got a preview for you guys.


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## Chuck D. Bones

Yeah Bay-Bee!


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## zgrav

Looks great!  Mixing metaphors a bit, but I'd hit that.  : ^ )


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## music6000

Chuck D. Bones said:


> This Overdrive is heavily based on the BJFe Honey Beest, a Honey Bee with a JFET booster up front.  It was a collaborative effort with HamishR.  In his honor, I've cracked a tuber of Foster's Lager (yeah, I know, it's that wallaby-piss export stuff). HamishR had been advocating his modified version of the BJFe Model G; he sent me a copy of the schematics for that and the Honey Beest.  I finally got around to breadboarding his _Model the G_ and liked it immensely.  It's a fairly mild medium-gain overdrive with a nice fat vintage tube amp sound.  When I stuck on the Honey Beest's JFET boost up front, it took on a whole new personality.  The PRE-GAIN controls the booster gain, from 6dB to 28dB.  Dialed-down, it's very close to the _Model the G_ tone.  Crank it up and it roars.  PRE-GAIN was modded from the Honey Beest for more range.  It crackles a bit when turned.  The BASS & DRIVE controls are pretty much unchanged from the Honey Beest.  Turn the BASS down with humbuckers, up with single-coils.  We wanted more range out of the TREBLE control, so it was rewired as both a boost and a cut.  The boost side of rotation is really more of a Mid Boost, but that's ok, it sounds good.  I used MPF4393 FETs, but anything with Vp between -1.5V and -2V will work (J201s need not apply).  Like the initial design, the BA482 diodes were imported from Oz.  They have virtually the same V-I curve as the gate-source junction on a 2N5952.  At full-tilt, this sucker will push all three stages into saturation.  Or turn PRE-GAIN down to zero and pull back on DRIVE for a mild breakup. Got some TS tones in there as well. In keeping with my potent potables theme, I named this one _*The Mojito*_. Cool, smooth and not too sweet, not too fizzy. Vero layout available on request.  Check the date code on the vintage RCA CA3130. That IC was manufactured in March 1977.
> 
> View attachment 6447
> 
> View attachment 6448
> 
> View attachment 6449


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## Chuck D. Bones

Nice demo.  Who was that?


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## music6000

Chuck D. Bones said:


> Nice demo.  Who was that?


He has been demoing Gear for years now, he maybe a Member here!???


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## ADAOCE

music6000 said:


> He has been demoing Gear for years now, he maybe a Member here!???


I think it’s @jeffwhitfield


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## music6000

ADAOCE said:


> I think it’s @jeffwhitfield


I think roknfnrol in the Video is from Louisville Kentucky???


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## jeffwhitfield

ADAOCE said:


> I think it’s @jeffwhitfield


Nope! Not me. I haven’t recorded any video demos yet. Probably should though. 🤪


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## ADAOCE

jeffwhitfield said:


> Nope! Not me. I haven’t recorded any video demos yet. Probably should though. 🤪


Ah my mistake! It kinda looks like your artwork? Did you sell that one?


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## jeffwhitfield

ADAOCE said:


> Ah my mistake! It kinda looks like your artwork? Did you sell that one?


Oh, snap! I didn't even realize that was one of mine! Yep, that's one I built for sure.


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## Mentaltossflycoon

It's crazy to me that we have forum members recognizing each other's builds in the wild. "I may not know your face but I recognize your taste in fonts immediately."


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## ADAOCE

Mentaltossflycoon said:


> It's crazy to me that we have forum members recognizing each other's builds in the wild. "I may not know your face but I recognize your taste in fonts immediately."


I recognize the font and the little drink glasses hah!


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