# Byzantium parts list



## Bobblybook

Hey there,
Is it possible to get a copy/paste of the parts list for this board? I'm planning some boards with my friend and we need to place a mouser order by the end of the week.

Formatting can be a mess, I'm just in need of component values. Thank you!!


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## Robert

I'm working on the parts lists for the Byzantium and ElectroVibe Mini today, will hopefully post them both later this afternoon.

The most important thing is to ensure your capacitors (electrolytic and film box) are 7mm height or shorter.     I'll list the part numbers I used for the prototypes.


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## Bobblybook

Thanks so much. Didn't want to be an annoyance, normally I can wait just fine but in this situation I need to order ahead.


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## Robert

https://docs.pedalpcb.com/project/Byzantium-PartsList.pdf


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## Kinski

Any word on the Electrovibe Mini build doc? I got all the parts (hopefully the correct sizes) and want to get started on drilling the enclosure and populating the PCBs. Also, the boards look AMAZING!


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## Robert

Kinski said:


> Any word on the Electrovibe Mini build doc?



I'm hoping to get a preliminary doc for the ElectroVibe Mini wrapped up later this evening.


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## fig

Robert said:


> I'm hoping to get a preliminary doc for the ElectroVibe Mini wrapped up later this evening.


Title page then?


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## Kinski

Robert said:


> I'm hoping to get a preliminary doc for the ElectroVibe Mini wrapped up later this evening.


Great, thanks!


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## Diynot

@PedalPCB Populating my Byzantium boards currently and just a heads up, there is a 10uf on the BBD board that is missing from the build doc. Following the conventional wisdom and using the values from the board until told otherwise. Also a question, will the ICs fit with leaf spring sockets, or is this a straight to the board job?


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## Robert

Diynot said:


> @PedalPCB Populating my Byzantium boards currently and just a heads up, there is a 10uf on the BBD board that is missing from the build doc.



Can you post a pic of your board?   There shouldn't be any 10uF caps on either PCB of the Byzantium.


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## Bricksnbeatles

Robert said:


> Can you post a pic of your board?   There shouldn't be any 10uF caps on either PCB of the Byzantium.


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## Diynot

Yup, that would be it.


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## Robert

Ahh _that _10uF, I thought you meant some _other _10uF...... 

That's C103 (vref filter cap), it has been bumped up to 47uF to match the Boss schematic but 10uF works just as well.


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## RobW

Robert said:


> I'm hoping to get a preliminary doc for the ElectroVibe Mini wrapped up later this evening.


Will you also post a build doc for the Byzantium flanger at some point?


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## dmnCrawler

Should I use the B or C variant of the BC550?


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## Robert

I used BC550B (from Tayda) for the prototypes.


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## dmnCrawler

I almost missed the BC560. Did you use the BC560A or BC560B in the prototype? Also is it ok to use a 30K trim in place of the 25k?


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## blackhatboojum

dmnCrawler said:


> I almost missed the BC560. Did you use the BC560A or BC560B in the prototype? Also is it ok to use a 30K trim in place of the 25k?


I used a BC560B in mine.


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## Phil hodson

"That's C103 (vref filter cap), it has been bumped up to 47uF to match the Boss schematic but 10uF works just as well."

Just about to put the capacitors into mine! so we can use either a 10uF or a 47uF?


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## pliolis

So the BBD  pcb goes to the top of the Audio pcb So you can bias the pedal  ,where does female header go, audio or BBD pcb ,the 6 pin male header is for the switch , both component sides facing up A bit lazy really twin pcbs that need to be biased are not common proper instructions would be good, Aion have a diagram and bias instructions for the DC Chorus ,one of the first twin pcbs I saw a couple of years ago


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## jeffwhitfield

Robert said:


> I'm working on the parts lists for the Byzantium and ElectroVibe Mini today, will hopefully post them both later this afternoon.
> 
> The most important thing is to ensure your capacitors (electrolytic and film box) are 7mm height or shorter.     I'll list the part numbers I used for the prototypes.


I used to bullseye wamprats back home. They’re not that much bigger than 7mm. 🤪


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## Robert

pliolis said:


> So the BBD  pcb goes to the top of the Audio pcb So you can bias the pedal



The BBD module goes on the bottom, the pots are mounted on this board.   There are labeled access holes in the audio module so you can reach the bias trim pots from the top.

As far as the pinheaders are concerned, it doesn't matter which board gets the male / female headers as long as they mate up.   I generally put the female headers on the component side of the lower module and the male headers on the back side of the upper module, but the choice is yours.


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## pliolis

I bought some 7mm caps from Australia but they are 20% maybe no good  may need to lay my 11mm caps on the side, here are instructions from elsewhere
Set depth and manual pots to min. and set clock trim to 40khz:
Connect  to guitar and amp set resonance to max- adjust  res trim to where it starts to oscillate,  set ''bias''for clean no distortion hope this is right , I have no O. scope Thanks PedalPCB for replying to the pedal order would''ve put audio on the bottom


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## Robert

The stacking order of the boards would have been obvious once you installed the pots.    Since this might be your first PedalPCB build, make sure you install the pots correctly (see below).   Some folks get it backwards the first time.

You can get by without an oscilloscope.    

If you have a DMM that measures frequency you can use that, or you can just adjust the clock by ear. (which is what I do, despite having a DMM and a scope)     I set Depth and Manual to minimum, turn the clock all the way down and then gradually increase until it doesn't sound "robotic".

There are cool sounds outside the range of the Boss service notes, so just go for what sounds good to you.



_This is not the Byzantium PCB but the pots are installed the same, just for reference._


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## pliolis

I  had posted before I received the PCBs !!! and can see what you mean now ,for TP1 I may solder a wire with an alligator clip to it -connected to the multi meter that and one to a ground point that way I can bias by just looking at the meter, the right angle pots should work though I like the jacks on the side not top will see if that will work ,may just use wire for the switch rather than pins, I''ll see so far as all going well wont change C103 to 47uf unless I have to ,also I have plenty of height around 32mm the 125b is 38 laid some cap on their side ,so height is no issue ,made a mistake not looking at one of the transistors is PNP fixed now with a BC556. I used ceramic for the pf caps hope that is ok madbean points out what cap needs to be wima or mlc


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## drossfile

Can you explain the trim pot adjustment in more detail? I followed your instructions for the clock, and I have to turn it all the way up to get rid of what I assume you’re referring to as the robotic sound. But how do I set the bias? Do I set bias first and then the clock? Where should my external pots be when setting bias, and what exactly am I looking for? Also, I don’t have a scope but my DMM does freq, so what freq am I looking for on the test point? Thanks for what you do here, I really enjoyed the challenge of this build but the effect is much milder than I would expect from a BF-2.


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## pliolis

Robert said:


> The stacking order of the boards would have been obvious once you installed the pots.    Since this might be your first PedalPCB build, make sure you install the pots correctly (see below).   Some folks get it backwards the first time.
> 
> You can get by without an oscilloscope.
> 
> If you have a DMM that measures frequency you can use that, or you can just adjust the clock by ear. (which is what I do, despite having a DMM and a scope)     I set Depth and Manual to minimum, turn the clock all the way down and then gradually increase until it doesn't sound "robotic".
> 
> There are cool sounds outside the range of the Boss service notes, so just go for what sounds good to you.
> 
> 
> 
> _This is not the Byzantium PCB but the pots are installed the same, just for reference._


Ive built about 4 pedal pcb pedals no twin pcb though ,finished the pedal now sounds great ,C103 needs to be 47uf otherwise the the clock keeps fluctuating , res is set to a civil setting nothing crazy ,clock 39khz may play around with that .


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## blackhatboojum

drossfile said:


> Can you explain the trim pot adjustment in more detail? I followed your instructions for the clock, and I have to turn it all the way up to get rid of what I assume you’re referring to as the robotic sound. But how do I set the bias? Do I set bias first and then the clock? Where should my external pots be when setting bias, and what exactly am I looking for? Also, I don’t have a scope but my DMM does freq, so what freq am I looking for on the test point? Thanks for what you do here, I really enjoyed the challenge of this build but the effect is much milder than I would expect from a BF-2.


For clock frequency, set manual and depth knobs to minimum. Probe tp-1 with oscilloscope or multimeter.  Adjust clock trimmer to 40khz.

For bias, set depth and resonance to minimum. Input a 200 hz 0dm sine wave. Adjust bias for distortion free sound.  You could also do this by ear with your guitar.  Adjust your bias for the best distortion free sound.

For resonance set your manual and depth knobs to minimum. Max out your res knob. Plug your pedal output into an amp. Short your input on your pedal. Adjust res trimmer to where pedal just starts to self oscillate or you could just adjust to your liking.  This trimmer basically sets the max resonance on your resonance knob.


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## pliolis

drossfile said:


> Can you explain the trim pot adjustment in more detail? I followed your instructions for the clock, and I have to turn it all the way up to get rid of what I assume you’re referring to as the robotic sound. But how do I set the bias? Do I set bias first and then the clock? Where should my external pots be when setting bias, and what exactly am I looking for? Also, I don’t have a scope but my DMM does freq, so what freq am I looking for on the test point? Thanks for what you do here, I really enjoyed the challenge of this build but the effect is much milder than I would expect from a BF-2.


Once you have set the clock to 40khz ,you can adjust it by ear latter to how you like it, plug into amp for the Res turn down your amp volume then set resonance pot to max adjust  trimmer till it just starts to oscillate if the trimmer is set to max it can be loud now you can turn the amp vol up, for the Bias set trimmer for clean modulation CCW youll get distortion CC again distortion ,around the middle ,


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## pliolis

I have set the enhance trimmer on the Flintlock flanger by lectric -fx  to a point where it could damage my speaker it gets very loud the Res trimmer here is not as bad or loud


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## drossfile

Thanks for the responses folks, that’s super helpful!!!


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## pliolis

Robert said:


> The stacking order of the boards would have been obvious once you installed the pots.    Since this might be your first PedalPCB build, make sure you install the pots correctly (see below).   Some folks get it backwards the first time.
> 
> You can get by without an oscilloscope.
> 
> If you have a DMM that measures frequency you can use that, or you can just adjust the clock by ear. (which is what I do, despite having a DMM and a scope)     I set Depth and Manual to minimum, turn the clock all the way down and then gradually increase until it doesn't sound "robotic".
> 
> There are cool sounds outside the range of the Boss service notes, so just go for what sounds good to you.
> 
> 
> 
> _This is not the Byzantium PCB but the pots are installed the same, just for reference._


I want to add the flanger into an enclosure with an overdrive ,Phaser ,and analog delay where do I connect the wire from the other pedals 1-9 on the switch or A-F on the header pins will the in and output jacks be redundant it will be a multi fx  unit ,all analog


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## Feral Feline

pliolis said:


> I want to add the flanger into an enclosure with an overdrive ,Phaser ,and analog delay where do I connect the wire from the other pedals 1-9 on the switch or A-F on the header pins will the in and output jacks be redundant it will be a multi fx  unit ,all analog


You want one switch to engage them all at once, or you still want to turn the individual FX on and off?

I’d start a separate thread for this in General  Questions


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## pliolis

Individual it will be like tech 21 fly rig though ,all pedals in line ,switched on one at a time


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