# Ungula "Cleft" Modification



## Robert

A few folks have asked, so here is the "Cleft" mod for the Ungula.

Q1 2N5089
Q2 MPSA13
Q3 MPSA13
Q4 2N5089

D1 1N4148
D2 1N4148

C6 OMIT


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## stevtron

Nice one, exactly what I need ... btw, in their description , he wrote something about NOS carbon comp resistors. Is it really a difference or more that usual mojo thing ...
I tried it few times with other boards, but I can't hear any a difference ... not really .


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## Robert

stevtron said:


> Nice one, exactly what I need ... btw, in their description , he wrote something about NOS carbon comp resistors. Is it really a difference or more that usual mojo thing ...
> I tried it few times with other boards, but I can't hear any a difference ... not really .



That's probably one of those can-o-worms debates that folks tend to get all worked up about.    I don't think that I personally could tell the difference, but some folks probably believe they do. 

There is also mention in the description of the Tone and Shift controls being revoiced.... I don't have any info about that right now.  
I didn't personally trace this modification, I just translated the component references from the info floating around the net.


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## stevtron

... exactly what I found about the differences of these muffled twins , but good to hear you would do the same , so I'll do it like you told ! ... me can't wait for the ultimate 3 switched mega mufflon , thanx so much for all that beautiful work


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## mad5066

Only audible truth regarding carbon comp is found in high voltage guitar amplifiers and again it's only certain position where there is voltage fluctuations. I believe RG Keen wrote an article explaining the specifics. On a 9V stompbox certainly not. Metal film do offer lower noise those especially for higher values.


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## stevtron

Exactly, I experienced higher noisefloor with carbon comp res. too . 
BTW , are PIO Caps the same "old is better" nonsense ? Best example is EQDs Black Ash. I'm really curious how it would sound with current parts instead of these NOS "magic" stuff ... likely the same, soundwise.
Didn't found a schematic , but it's a modified tonebender, like the descriptions said , so maybe we'll see it as a PedalPCB and can try it


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## mad5066

I can't comment on paper in oil caps, never had any experience with them, but they are crazy over priced imo. It would probably be "clearer" sounding and less noisy at certain settings. I made several big muffs using MPSA18 or 2N5089 trannys, along with metal film res and caps, dead quite plus it sounds great! 

But there's a market for NOS magic mojo so it sells, some merit to it but WAY WAY blown out of proportion.


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## zgrav

some of the folks that built the original pedals would have loved to have had the many better quality component choices that are available today.


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## ChrisSchwarzkopf

Just to be sure: The Mod changes the "Original" Hoof into the Cloven Hoof? And also I was wondering what "C6 OMIT" means. Just take it out or wire a jumper also?


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## Robert

ChrisSchwarzkopf said:


> Just to be sure: The Mod changes the "Original" Hoof into the Cloven Hoof? And also I was wondering what "C6 OMIT" means. Just take it out or wire a jumper also?



Correct.   

C6 OMIT means to just leave it out, do not install a jumper.


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## chongmagic

Does the emitter for the MPSA13 go near the transistor tab on the silkscreen?


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## Robert

Yep.


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## chongmagic

Robert said:


> Yep.



Thank you, you are indeed a gentleman and a scholar.


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## gri

chongmagic said:


> Does the emitter for the MPSA13 go near the transistor tab on the silkscreen?
> 
> View attachment 629


 

HMMM emiter in that red circle. i have to bend the base pin back and turn it 180degess to face the same way as the Q3 AND Q6? that could be why mine making a hell of a lot of noise and sound like shit


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