# Basic Workflow Tips for Building a PedalPCB



## Jovi Bon Kenobi

Hello! This is my method for building a PedalPCB from start to finish. Is it the right way? Not necessarily. It's just what works for me and I hope it sheds some light on certain steps in the process along the way. I created this as a reference guide for anyone to use if needed. Thanks for reading!

*Step 1: Drill the enclosure.*
I recommend having this done before starting any soldering as it makes test fitting the fully populated board a whole lot easier later.
_fig. 1_




*Key step* Always print the drill template at 100%. Some printers default to "fit to page". You don't want "fit to page" because the template will be about 5% smaller if you do so...enough for a future struggle.

To attach the template to the enclosure I like using double sided tape. Place the template printed-side down on a flat surface. Put tape on the inside four corners of the drill template face and one in the middle.
_fig. 2


_

With the template tape-side-up on a flat surface I then carefully lower the enclosure down onto it.
_fig. 3_




Once it's on centered and true fold the four sides of the template flush to the enclosure and secure them with regular tape. Use a center punch or an awl and hammer to mark the holes. I use a step bit and cordless drill to make the holes though a drill press is best. I always start by drilling a little bit where I marked the center to give me a more secure starting point then move to the next until all are done this way. This allows me to eyeball and see if I need to correct my final pass for each hole. 
*Side note* After marking the enclosure, some of us like to use a regular drill bit to drill a pilot hole before moving onto the step bit. 
_fig. 4_




Drill all holes then clean up any burrs from drilling with a needle file, if needed. Thoroughly clean inside and out afterwards with a towel and isopropyl alcohol. Optional, compressed air is nice to have to blow out any remaining debris.
_fig. 5_


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## Jovi Bon Kenobi

*Step 2: Prep*
Clean your PCB. I use isopropyl alcohol and a paper towel.
_fig. 6_




*Step 3: Audit components & populate the board*
With your digital multimeter measure all components for proper value before adding them to the board.
_fig. 7_




*A flux pen is recommended.* It will help you avoid any future potentially fouled solder joints. Turn the board over and flux the pads which you will be soldering. Do this in small areas at a time so you don't get flux all over yourself.
_fig. 8_




*Clean your leads*
Again, isopropyl alcohol and towel here.
_fig. 9_



Or...


Chuck D. Bones said:


> When I clean the leads, I'm usually using scotch-brite to remove the tarnish on my NOS parts


*Flux your leads...*the area that will touch the PCB pads when properly seated. Start at the component and go out about 1/8".
_fig. 10_




Bend the leads. I like to hold the resistors down and bend the leads away from each other a bit so they stay in place when turning the board over.
_fig. 11_




Another option is to use blu-tack or poster putty. When using this, try to not smash it down too close to the resistors or it will touch the exposed leads and melt when soldering. I find this method particularly useful when populating box film caps and sockets so they go on straight and tidy. 
*Solder time*
Most people have preferred temps, tips, and solder, but for the sake of this guide, what I used is a fine point chisel tip in an iron set to roughly 700°F (370°C) and Kester .80mm 63/37 "no-clean" solder. This is not a definitive guide, rather just my current preference. 

Low profile components go in first, i.e. resistors, diodes, next are sockets, trimpots, then film capacitors and electrolytics. Clip the leads after soldering each component or area of components.
_fig. 12_



_fig. 13_




...continued below


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## Nostradoomus

Im a blu tack fan myself. I’ve never had it melt but the potential is definitely there. 

I usually install all my low profile components first without bending the leads, slap a pile of blu tack on it, press it flat on my bench and do them all at once.


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## Jovi Bon Kenobi

*Step 4: Cleaning the PCB and adding potentiometers and switches*
The board is populated. In this photo you see that I haven't added the transistors into their sockets yet. They get in the way when soldering the pots and switches so I'll add them later. The same applies for any socketed component, i.e. IC's
_fig. 14_



*Yes, it missing a capacitor. It's optional on this PCB.

But look how dirty it is underneath.
_fig. 15_




*Cleaning the PCB*
The method I use to clean all the flux residue from the bottom is simple. Isopropyl alcohol, a toothbrush, and paper towel. *Kim Wipes are preferred over paper towel as they don't produce lint*
_fig. 16_




Lay the towel over the bottom side of the PCB and hold it in place. Saturate the paper towel in isopropyl alcohol and brush for a few seconds. When the towel starts to break down or look "fluxy" move to a dry patch of towel and repeat.  Do this three or more times depending on how dirty it was. This towel method keeps the alcohol and residue from running through to the business side of the board. Here it is all clean.
_fig. 17_




*Time to add the potentiometers*
First, bend the the legs into a "\ | /". Doing this gives the potentiometer legs some outward tension when you insert it into the pads on the PCB so it won't fall out. Next, bend your potentiometer legs to about an 80° acute angle. This gives you clearance from the other pot solder pads and the offboard wiring we will do later. Like this...
_fig. 18_




Add flux to the PCB pads and potentiometer legs and insert them into the board. They should stay in the board without falling out. Do _not_ solder them now. Notice how the pots are pushed flush against the board? We don't want this, especially if there is no plastic cap on the pot. Read on to see the couple additional steps we will take before soldering them in.
_fig. 19_




*Test Fitting *
Drop the board (now with unsoldered pots) into your enclosure. I do this on the outside so I have easy access when soldering. My drill holes are symmetrical so this works. If your holes aren't symmetrical (due to drilling misfires or asymmetrical toggle layout) drop it into the the inside of the enclosure. I then _gently_ hand-tighten the potentiometer nuts until they are just snug. This just temporarily holds everything secure while we get ready to solder.
_fig. 20_




*What if you have toggle switches?*
If you have toggle switches flux pen the lugs and it's corresponding pads then _gently_ hand tighten them into the enclosure before dropping your board (with unsoldered pots attached) into the holes. Basically, with this technique, everything is anchored to something so that you have a solid base to work from. Like this...
_fig. 21_




*Avoiding potential grounding issues*
To avoid any possibility of creating a short I lift the PCB up slightly to create a gap between it and the pots. The tension created by previously bending the pot legs holds the PCB secure. Also, in this photo below I insulated the dual gang pot that doesn't have a dust cover with pickup coil tape for added insurance.
_fig. 22_




*Solder the potentiometers and switches*
Do a final once over to align and center the board, pots, and switches if needed. There is a bit of wiggle room. I like to solder one leg then move to the next potentiometer or switch, reducing the chance of overheating. Repeat until all legs and switch lugs are done. Unscrew the nuts holding the potentiometers down and remove your completed PCB. When the time comes, it will now drop into your enclosure holes with no resistance.
_fig. 23_




Continued below...


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## Jovi Bon Kenobi

*Step 5: Offboard Wiring*
_fig. 24_



For a standard 125B build using all the components seen in fig. 24 I cut all my offboard wires to the same lengths:

Footswitch breakout board to jack "tip" lug's = 5"
Footswitch breakout board to main board = depends on main board size
DC jack to +/- on the board = 1 ⅞"
Board grounds to jack "sleeve" lug's = 2 ¼"

Clean the breakout board (if using), flux board and switch lugs, and solder it to the footswitch.

Flux the wires and the pads they go into then drop the wires into the pads. Lay a piece of tape across all wires and then around the footswitch to hold them in place then solder em in. Like this...
_fig. 25_




Clip the leads then clean off the flux residue from the breakout board.
Bend the middle four leads coming from the breakout board  into a "u", flux them and the pads on the board, then insert them into the board, solder, and clip excess.
_fig. 26_




Repeat the process for the north end of the board. Notice I pre-clipped the leads that go into the DC power jack lugs so that I don't have to after soldering them in place.
_fig. 27_




Add heat-shrink to the input/output jack wires (if using), solder on the jacks, then position and shrink your tubing.
_fig. 28_




*Final assembly.*
Install your DC jack into the enclosure and position it so that the longer lug is on the left and the shorter lug is on the right. Tighten it down then flux it's lugs.
If using an LED bezel install it now. For the one I use in the photo below I like to slightly flare out the opening after fitting it in the enclosure. I do this by gently bending the tabs a bit. This allows the LED to drop right in.
_fig. 29_




Test your LED so you know it works. Flux the LED legs and the pads on the board where it will go and insert it into the board.
Drop your completed board into the enclosure and hand tighten all of the nuts and washers onto the pots and switches.
Solder the DC wires to the power jack. You will need to finesse the input/output jacks out of the way so you have easy access while doing this.
Solder the LED and then clip the leads.
Tighten down your input and output jacks.
Install any of the socketed the components into their sockets if you haven't already, i.e. transistors, IC's, diodes, etc...
_fig. 30_




Do a once over on all your nuts to make sure everything is secure. All done!
_fig. 31_




Rock out!


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## Chuck D. Bones

When I clean the leads, I'm usually using scotch-brite to remove the tarnish on my NOS parts.  After soldering, I usually flood the board with IPA and scrub with a toothbrush.  I do this before installing pots and trimpots so I don't transport flux into the pot.  Don't tell my wife I use her toothbrush.


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## Jovi Bon Kenobi

OK! I think this is done. It took me a few days as I was quite busy with real life work and such. Please let me know if you think anything seems amiss. I added "fig." titles to each photo so if anyone needs to reference or link it they can pinpoint exactly where to scroll to.


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## Mourguitars

Excellent Tutorial and tips ! 

I’ve been fighting myself on the wiring but now I see how you get that nice clean wiring look ...sweet

Also I’ve been wondering how to do fig.21 on my next build..got it now !

Thanks for taking the time for the step by step tutorial...

Mike


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## dlazzarini

Jovi Bon Kenobi said:


> *Step 5: Offboard Wiring*
> _fig. 24_
> View attachment 1388
> I cut all my offboard wires to the same lengths:
> 
> 
> Jovi Bon Kenobi said:
> 
> 
> 
> *Step 5: Offboard Wiring*
> _fig. 24_
> View attachment 1388
> I cut all my offboard wires to the same lengths:
> 
> Footswitch breakout board to jack "tip" lug's = 5"
> Footswitch breakout board to main board = depends on board
> DC jack to +/- on the board = 1 ⅞"
> Board grounds to jack "sleeve" lug's = 2 ¼"
> 
> Clean the breakout board (if using), flux board and switch lugs, and solder it to the footswitch.
> 
> Flux the wires and the pads they go into then drop the wires into the pads. Lay a piece of tape across all wires and then around the footswitch to hold them in place then solder em in. Like this...
> _fig. 25_
> View attachment 1414
> 
> Clip the leads then clean off the flux residue from the breakout board.
> Bend the middle four leads coming from the breakout board  into a "u", flux them and the pads on the board, then insert them into the board, solder, and clip excess.
> _fig. 26_
> View attachment 1416
> 
> Repeat the process for the north end of the board. Notice I pre-clipped the leads that go into the DC power jack lugs so that I don't have to after soldering them in place.
> _fig. 27_
> View attachment 1415
> 
> Add heat-shrink to the input/output jack wires (if using), solder on the jacks, then position and shrink your tubing.
> _fig. 28_
> View attachment 1417
> 
> *Final assembly.*
> Install your DC jack into the enclosure and position it so that the longer lug is on the left and the shorter lug is on the right. Tighten it down then flux it's lugs.
> If using an LED bezel install it now. For the one I use in the photo below I like to slightly flare out the opening after fitting it in the enclosure. I do this by gently bending the tabs a bit. This allows the LED to drop right in.
> _fig. 29_
> View attachment 1421
> 
> Test your LED so you know it works. Flux the LED legs and the pads on the board where it will go and insert it into the board.
> Drop your completed board into the enclosure and hand tighten all of the nuts and washers onto the pots and switches.
> Solder the DC wires to the power jack. You will need to finesse the input/output jacks out of the way so you have easy access while doing this.
> Solder the LED and then clip the leads.
> Tighten down your input and output jacks.
> Install any of the socketed the components into their sockets if you haven't already, i.e. transistors, IC's, diodes, etc...
> _fig. 30_
> View attachment 1422
> 
> Do a once over on all your nuts to make sure everything is secure. All done!
> _fig. 31_
> View attachment 1423
> 
> Rock out!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Footswitch breakout board to jack "tip" lug's = 5"
> Footswitch breakout board to main board = depends on board
> DC jack to +/- on the board = 1 ⅞"
> Board grounds to jack "sleeve" lug's = 2 ¼"
> 
> Clean the breakout board (if using), flux board and switch lugs, and solder it to the footswitch.
> 
> Flux the wires and the pads they go into then drop the wires into the pads. Lay a piece of tape across all wires and then around the footswitch to hold them in place then solder em in. Like this...
> _fig. 25_
> View attachment 1414
> 
> Clip the leads then clean off the flux residue from the breakout board.
> Bend the middle four leads coming from the breakout board  into a "u", flux them and the pads on the board, then insert them into the board, solder, and clip excess.
> _fig. 26_
> View attachment 1416
> 
> Repeat the process for the north end of the board. Notice I pre-clipped the leads that go into the DC power jack lugs so that I don't have to after soldering them in place.
> _fig. 27_
> View attachment 1415
> 
> Add heat-shrink to the input/output jack wires (if using), solder on the jacks, then position and shrink your tubing.
> _fig. 28_
> View attachment 1417
> 
> *Final assembly.*
> Install your DC jack into the enclosure and position it so that the longer lug is on the left and the shorter lug is on the right. Tighten it down then flux it's lugs.
> If using an LED bezel install it now. For the one I use in the photo below I like to slightly flare out the opening after fitting it in the enclosure. I do this by gently bending the tabs a bit. This allows the LED to drop right in.
> _fig. 29_
> View attachment 1421
> 
> Test your LED so you know it works. Flux the LED legs and the pads on the board where it will go and insert it into the board.
> Drop your completed board into the enclosure and hand tighten all of the nuts and washers onto the pots and switches.
> Solder the DC wires to the power jack. You will need to finesse the input/output jacks out of the way so you have easy access while doing this.
> Solder the LED and then clip the leads.
> Tighten down your input and output jacks.
> Install any of the socketed the components into their sockets if you haven't already, i.e. transistors, IC's, diodes, etc...
> _fig. 30_
> View attachment 1422
> 
> Do a once over on all your nuts to make sure everything is secure. All done!
> _fig. 31_
> View attachment 1423
> 
> Rock out!
Click to expand...

Sweet tutorial. I’ve already figured out most of the process but I wish I would have had this on my first couple of pedals. Very thorough. One question though is how do you get your PCB so shiny clean and black? I flush my board with 99.9% isopropyl. It’s clean but not that clean.


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## Jovi Bon Kenobi

dlazzarini said:


> Sweet tutorial. I’ve already figured out most of the process but I wish I would have had this on my first couple of pedals. Very thorough. One question though is how do you get your PCB so shiny clean and black? I flush my board with 99.9% isopropyl. It’s clean but not that clean.


You know, I'm not sure. It may just be the lighting. The last photo was the only one taken outside...in diffused light of a shaded area. I only thoroughly clean the bottom side of the PCB after all small parts go in. There is minimal flux on the business side because I never flux the pads on that side...so I usually leave that alone.


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## Chuck D. Bones

WOW!  Impressive.  You put a lot of time and effort into putting this together.  If everyone built their pedals this well, I'll wager we'd have a lot fewer posts in the Troubleshooting forum.


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## Jovi Bon Kenobi

Chuck D. Bones said:


> WOW!  Impressive.  You put a lot of time and effort into putting this together.  If everyone built their pedals this well, I'll wager we'd have a lot fewer posts in the Troubleshooting forum.


Thanks Chuck! That was my original aim.  I am not that skilled at debugging or offering electronics knowledge, so I figured I'd go the other route and go full detail on what I _do _know.


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## Nostradoomus

Very nice my friend!


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## sertanksalot

Outstanding pro-tips.  Appreciate the notes on flux cleaning in particular... need to try this method next time.  Also the heat shrink is a sign of pro quality equipment for sure.    Thanks a ton!


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## griff10672

very good procedure info ......... Nice job Kenobi !!


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## Barry

Fantastic


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## Gordo

What a great tutorial.  Thanks for taking the obvious time to put this together.  I've been doing this for longer than I care to admit and I picked up a few cool pointers here.

Side note to testing parts:  Tayda and eBay have cheap but cool parts testers that sometimes aren't as accurate as as a good DMM but are quick and easy parts testers for resistors and caps especially.  I know they've been talked about here before but REALLY reduce the chance of mixing up values like 4k7/47K.  Those can be a bugger if you're looking for wrong parts while troubleshooting, especially if you have a mix of 4 and 5 band color codes. You can be looking right at the part and totally miss the value.  It's a minimal investment for your bench and takes only a few seconds to verify parts as you stuff them.  It's amazing how low your wrong-parts-in-a-build numbers drop to.


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## ErickPulido

Great tutorial, thank you so much


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## Dali

Very nice tutorial, may I suggest @PedalPCB to pin this post so beginners see it? As long as it's not full of misinformation...  

I'm surprised by something: 
It looks like you do the full enclosure before testing the pedal at all. Is it so? As a newbie I need a small victory first by testing the thing like this: 



Maybe I'm just an insecure brat...


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## Jovi Bon Kenobi

Dali said:


> It looks like you do the full enclosure before testing the pedal at all. Is it so?


I know I'm playing with fire and may eventually be burned, but since building pedals in this very meticulous and deliberate way I have not run into any troubleshooting issues. The last 20 or so PCBs have worked perfectly. I would always suggest testing it first before going into the enclosure.


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## Jbanks

This debate has been summarized as box before you rock or rock before you box? I’ve gone both ways. I usually try it before boxing. But given various ground issues and wiring shorts in pots, you might not see a problem until you box it up.  You’ll end up doing both anyways. I’ve learned that 99% of my problems are in the off-board wiring issues. Surface mounted pots have helped greatly in reducing errors in wiring.


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## Nostradoomus

I always rock before I box, then I can at least narrow it down to offboard issues. Not too often my builds don’t work these days though.


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## DGWVI

I always test outside the box, both to make sure everything works, and to see if there's anything I may want to alter


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## Chuck D. Bones

I usually, but not always, get away with boxing it up first.  It is very satisfying to power it up the first time in the box and have it work.  But I accept the fact that sometimes the board will have to come out of the box to fix or mod something.


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## Cucurbitam0schata

Just found this awesome post, thanks @Jovi Bon Kenobi ! Will be very helpful for my first build.

3PDT Breakout Boards - I'm really pumped to get my first pedal project going, and I'm waiting on the breakouts to get back in stock.

I figure it's worth the wait, so I'll just chill and be patient... But, while I'm waiting: for all you pros out there, what are your perceived advantages to the breakout boards?


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## Jovi Bon Kenobi

Cucurbitam0schata said:


> what are your perceived advantages to the breakout boards?


Really for me it's just convenience, speed, and neatness. I suppose it also removes variables with incorrect wiring, but it's not hard to wire a switch without it. It just takes a bit longer.


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## Barry

Cucurbitam0schata said:


> Just found this awesome post, thanks @Jovi Bon Kenobi ! Will be very helpful for my first build.
> 
> 3PDT Breakout Boards - I'm really pumped to get my first pedal project going, and I'm waiting on the breakouts to get back in stock.
> 
> I figure it's worth the wait, so I'll just chill and be patient... But, while I'm waiting: for all you pros out there, what are your perceived advantages to the breakout boards?


Are you in the USA?


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## Cucurbitam0schata

Barry said:


> Are you in the USA?


Yep, reporting from America's Dairyland.


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## Barry

Cucurbitam0schata said:


> Yep, reporting from America's Dairyland.


PM me an address and I'll mail you one
Edit: Well it looks like there back in stock now


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## TomShadow

Thank you so much @Jovi Bon Kenobi, this is invaluable information for a beginner like me. 
I consolidated all the posts into a pdf for easy reading and printing if anyone needs it. 








						Basic Workflow Tips for Building a PedalPCB _ PedalPCB Community Forum.pdf
					






					tinyurl.com


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## Jovi Bon Kenobi

Thanks @TomShadow! That is very helpful indeed!


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## Pissbread 2000

What is all of this business about cleaning the boards and using a flux pen? I’ve built pedals for over a decade at home, and for well known company and I’ve never used a flux pen. Ever. Good quality solder and proper iron and a steady hand are all you need.

I do touch up my finished boards with a bit of isopropanol if they need it. But they usually don’t. 
Adding flux is just making things unnecessarily messy.

Good tutorial otherwise. Fantastic beginners resource. I must say rocking it  you box it is preferred for the less experienced builders. Building a testing box is super easy and incredibly useful. 
This one is is cheap and easy, and the audio probe is incredibly handy for troubleshooting. http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2014/09/test-box-20.html


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## Jovi Bon Kenobi

Pissbread 2000 said:


> What is all of this business about cleaning the boards and using a flux pen? I’ve built pedals for over a decade at home, and for well known company and I’ve never used a flux pen. Ever. Good quality solder and proper iron and a steady hand are all you need.


Cleaning the boards before using them takes seconds and is just one small step in ensuring that you start with an uncontaminated surface, i.e. body oils, possible tape residue from when they were shipped from PedalPCB, flux residue from pre-soldered fv-1's, etc. It also makes them look nicer before you start so your finished product looks nicer. In some cases, I even sand the rough edges of the boards smooth from when they were snapped apart. So I'd clean after that as well.
With all due respect, I suggested using a flux pen because it really does make solder flow nicer and adhere better. This basic workflow thread was intended as just that, "basic". For people who haven't been DIY soldering for years. I'd reckon that some people just starting might not have a high quality iron and correct tip and not know which solder to even start with. I didn't elaborate on these points but maybe it would be helpful, though that might belong in a separate "soldering technique" thread. Thoughts?
That is an awesome DIY test box. Thanks for posting the link here.


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## TomShadow

A soldering technique thread would be incredibly helpful. I am yet to build my first Pedal, my PCBs are on their way and I am collecting all the information I can find. On the soldering side, I am planning on getting a Weller WLC100 with a small chisel tip. A Kester 60/40 solder .020"/.50mm, a flux pen, solder wick and some blu-tack. Any and all suggestions are welcome


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## Jovi Bon Kenobi

That all works! A fine screwdriver 1/32" x 0.8mm tip is what I use.  Another thing I prefer is the brass scrubbie tip cleaner over the sponge. It doesn't cool your iron down when cleaning and lasts longer.


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## reubenreub

TomShadow said:


> A soldering technique thread would be incredibly helpful. I am yet to build my first Pedal, my PCBs are on their way and I am collecting all the information I can find. On the soldering side, I am planning on getting a Weller WLC100 with a small chisel tip. A Kester 60/40 solder .020"/.50mm, a flux pen, solder wick and some blu-tack. Any and all suggestions are welcome


I use the Weller WLC100 and it's a pretty great iron for the price! I'd recommend the Weller ST7 tip as the smaller size is really helpful for PedalPCB boards. I think that's the same as what JBK was recommending. And I second getting the brass tip cleaner instead of the sponge.


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## TomShadow

Copy that! Thank you @Jovi Bon Kenobi and @reubenreub


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## mywmyw

i've never used a weller, but i have a nice xytronics iron and a hakko (i think its the 8-- something. its the $100 one everyone recommends). i used the xytronic for many many years and love it, but the hakko iron has become my favorite for pcb projects. it has a much slimmer shaft than the xytronic, very easy to get in tight spaces and not burn anything. i now keep the xytronic loaded with a fat chisel tip strictly for working on guitars.


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## Blooze

Pissbread 2000 said:


> Building a testing box is super easy and incredibly useful.
> This one is is cheap and easy, and the audio probe is incredibly handy for troubleshooting. http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2014/09/test-box-20.html



That's a great idea. I’m new to the building game. What lab power supply would you recommend?


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## zgrav

I just use a 9v wall wart that I used to use for some pedals.  Ideally you will want to have something at the voltage that matches what you plan to use for the pedal you are building.


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## mjd515

wait so you put the Pots on the other side of the board? ive been putting them on the same side as the resistors and such...welp looks like i gotta reorder.


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## Barry

TomShadow said:


> A soldering technique thread would be incredibly helpful. I am yet to build my first Pedal, my PCBs are on their way and I am collecting all the information I can find. On the soldering side, I am planning on getting a Weller WLC100 with a small chisel tip. A Kester 60/40 solder .020"/.50mm, a flux pen, solder wick and some blu-tack. Any and all suggestions are welcome


There are lots of tutorials on you tube


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## Chuck D. Bones

mjd515 said:


> wait so you put the Pots on the other side of the board? ive been putting them on the same side as the resistors and such...welp looks like i gotta reorder.



Besides reading the Basic Workflow Tips for Building a PedalPCB, take a stroll thru the Build Reports forum.  You'll find dozens of pictures of well-built boards.

Don't feel bad, I mounted a 4PDT toggle on the wrong side of the board (DOH!) once.


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## chongmagic

Haven't gotten around to mentioning it but kudos on the write up Jovi! You are indeed very meticulous,. I suggest every beginner read through this as it will help with any issues down the road.


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## TheSin

Jovi Bon Kenobi said:


> *Step 4: Cleaning the PCB and adding potentiometers and switches*
> The board is populated. In this photo you see that I haven't added the transistors into their sockets yet. They get in the way when soldering the pots and switches so I'll add them later. The same applies for any socketed component, i.e. IC's
> _fig. 14_
> View attachment 1373
> *Yes, it missing a capacitor. It's optional on this PCB.
> 
> But look how dirty it is underneath.
> _fig. 15_
> View attachment 1374
> 
> *Cleaning the PCB*
> The method I use to clean all the flux residue from the bottom is simple. Isopropyl alcohol, a toothbrush, and paper towel.
> _fig. 16_
> View attachment 1375
> 
> Lay the towel over the bottom side of the PCB and hold it in place. Saturate the paper towel in isopropyl alcohol and brush for a few seconds. When the towel starts to break down or look "fluxy" move to a dry patch of towel and repeat.  Do this three or more times depending on how dirty it was. This towel method keeps the alcohol and residue from running through to the business side of the board. Here it is all clean.
> _fig. 17_
> View attachment 1376
> 
> *Time to add the potentiometers*
> First, bend the the legs into a "\ | /". Doing this gives the potentiometer some tension when you insert it into the pads on the PCB so it won't fall out. Next, bend your potentiometer legs to about an 80° acute angle. This gives you clearance from the other pot solder pads and the offboard wiring we will do later. Like this...
> _fig. 18_
> View attachment 1420
> 
> Add flux to the PCB pads and potentiometer legs and insert them into the board. They should stay in the board without falling out.
> _fig. 19_
> View attachment 1382
> 
> *Test Fitting *
> Drop the board (now with unsoldered pots) into your enclosure. I do this on the outside so I have easy access when soldering. My drill holes are symmetrical so this works. If your holes aren't symmetrical (due to drilling misfires or asymmetrical toggle layout) drop it into the the inside of the enclosure. I then _gently_ hand-tighten the potentiometer nuts until they are just snug. This just temporarily holds everything secure while we get ready to solder.
> _fig. 20_
> View attachment 1384
> 
> *What if you have toggle switches?*
> If you have toggle switches flux pen the lugs and it's corresponding pads then _gently_ hand tighten them into the enclosure before dropping your board (with unsoldered pots attached) into the holes. Basically, with this technique, everything is anchored to something so that you have a solid base to work from. Like this...
> _fig. 21_
> View attachment 1419
> 
> *Avoiding potential grounding issues*
> To avoid any possibility of creating a short I lift the PCB up slightly to create a gap between it and the pots. The tension created by previously bending the pot legs holds the PCB secure. Also, in this photo below I insulated the one pot that doesn't have a dust cover with tape for added insurance.
> _fig. 22_
> View attachment 1389
> 
> *Solder the potentiometers and switches*
> Do a final once over to align and center the board, pots, and switches if needed. There is a bit of wiggle room. I like to solder one leg then move to the next potentiometer or switch, reducing the chance of overheating. Repeat until all legs and switch lugs are done. Unscrew the nuts holding the components down and remove your completed PCB. When the time comes, it will now drop into your enclosure holes with no resistance.
> _fig. 23_
> View attachment 1386
> 
> Continued below...


I clean my pcb after soldering w 91% alcohol but it leaves a whiteish sticky residue afterwards..do u get that too??


----------



## Nostradoomus

You’ll want to get 99%, that other 9% is water...not what you want anywhere near electronics.


----------



## Chuck D. Bones

99% alcohol won't be 99% any more once you open the bottle.  Alcohol is hygroscopic and will absorb H2O like nobody's business when exposed to the atmosphere.  I use 91% and it works just fine.  If you're getting sticky residue, it's because you are not using enough alcohol.  You have to flood the board, scrub it with a toothbrush and then flood it again.  If you try to swab the board with alcohol, you're just spreading the flux around.


----------



## TheSin

Chuck D. Bones said:


> 99% alcohol won't be 99% any more once you open the bottle.  Alcohol is hygroscopic and will absorb H2O like nobody's business when exposed to the atmosphere.  I use 91% and it works just fine.  If you're getting sticky residue, it's because you are not using enough alcohol.  You have to flood the board, scrub it with a toothbrush and then flood it again.  If you try to swab the board with alcohol, you're just spreading the flux around.


I actually did flood it more than once with a piece of tp and used a toothbrush, but maybe I didn’t do it enough though?? It’s almost like the alcohol is reacting with or stripping the top coat off the pcb.
I built a 2nd pedal right after and didn’t use any flux paste or pen. It came out just fine and works nicely, and I didn’t have to do any cleanup. Im wondering how necessary using flux paste/pen really is? I’m only 6 months into pedal building so Im still learning....


----------



## Chuck D. Bones

I find that flux is helpful, but not always necessary.  Most solder has a flux core and that's sufficient.  
I find flux most useful in these circumstances:
1) Tinning stranded wire - helps the solder wick up between the strands
2) Soldering to anything with a large thermal mass: pot backshells, circuit board ground plane, the ground lead on jacks that are mounted in the chassis...
3) Soldering to the leads of NOS parts
And of course flux is absolutely necessary when using solder braid. 

When I say flood the board, I mean submerge it in a puddle of alcohol.  I put 100ml or so in an old pie tin and tilt it to get a deep puddle along one edge.  Slosh that around, then scrub, the more sloshing.  After that, set the board on edge so the alcohol drains off.  I've never had the alcohol react with or strip the solder mask off of a circuit board.


----------



## TheSin

Chuck D. Bones said:


> I find that flux is helpful, but not always necessary.  Most solder has a flux core and that's sufficient.
> I find flux most useful in these circumstances:
> 1) Tinning stranded wire - helps the solder wick up between the strands
> 2) Soldering to anything with a large thermal mass: pot backshells, circuit board ground plane, the ground lead on jacks that are mounted in the chassis...
> 3) Soldering to the leads of NOS parts
> And of course flux is absolutely necessary when using solder braid.
> 
> When I say flood the board, I mean submerge it in a puddle of alcohol.  I put 100ml or so in an old pie tin and tilt it to get a deep puddle along one edge.  Slosh that around, then scrub, the more sloshing.  After that, set the board on edge so the alcohol drains off.  I've never had the alcohol react with or strip the solder mask off of a circuit board.



I’ll give that a shot one of these days....appreciate it!


----------



## jubey

Hello guys and gals.
I am a beginner into soldering pcbs (so keep that in mind ).. Just working on the Spatialist and everything is fine but I came across something that confuses me.
When watching people solder diodes, it seems the orientation of the square and round marked point are different then on the arachnoid pcb (see pic). The marked kathode points towards the circle, but on arachnoid it’s a square... Why is that?
Thanks


----------



## joelorigo

Hi,
Total rookie question about Step 3 - testing components. I was able to quickly find out how to test resistors. But I'm a little confused about the setting on the multimeter for capacitors. And what reading I am looking for. What about diodes? Are they to be tested?


----------



## Chuck D. Bones

Most cheap multimeters don't have a capacitor setting.  Get one of these for testing capacitors, inductors, diodes and transistors. It even does resistors! Money well spent.
There are two schools of thought regarding component testing:
A) You can test them before you install them and avoid potential component problems later on.
B) You can power up your pedal and test them that way.  If they're all good, no problem.  If you have a bad one, we'll see you in the Troubleshooting forum.
I highly recommend Plan A for newbies.


----------



## joelorigo

Does this multimeter have a capacitor setting? It's the one I have









						Economy Digital Multimeter
					

Perfect low-cost entry-level digital multimeter to get you started until you graduate to a more expensive DMM. It takes voltage, current, and resistance readings well enough for the purpose of DIY guitar effects pedal building and it even has a transistor tester. Actual color may vary.




					buildyourownclone.com


----------



## Chuck D. Bones

NO.  And don't trust the transistor tester function.


----------



## joelorigo

Ok. Thank you. If I am getting capacitors, diodes & transistors from Guitar Pedal Parts, Small Bear, Digi Key, Mouser, etc. is there any worries that they would be not what they are supposed to be?


----------



## Robert

I don't have any experience with Guitar Pedal Parts, but you can trust Small Bear, Digi Key, and Mouser.


----------



## joelorigo

Super. Thanks guys.


----------



## Nostradoomus

Oh whoa guitarpedalparts is just across the border from me basically...I’ll give em a whirl!


----------



## Barry

It's often the pedal builder that makes the error not always the supplier


----------



## Chuck D. Bones

What Barry said.  Just look in the Troubleshooting forum to see how many times builders install the wrong parts.  And that's only the guys who'll admit it!


----------



## Bobbyd67

Holy crap... I forgot about this post. Reading the first page really make you realize how much you took for granted Isopropyl alcohol back before this apocalypse were going through xD


----------



## steelplayer

Superb post. Thanks for taking the time for such a detailed collection of information. There's a lot of great info here for guys like me rebooting the hobby. Gonna read this a few times through before getting the soldering iron out of mothballs.


----------



## jspake

this is an awesome thread, really great info. is there any reason you promote using a step drill bit over standard jobbers, or even screw machine stubby bits?


----------



## Barry

jspake said:


> this is an awesome thread, really great info. is there any reason you promote using a step drill bit over standard jobbers, or even screw machine stubby bits?


I can drill all the holes with one bit and not have to constantly change


----------



## Nostradoomus

It also makes a smoother edge and stays well aligned and if you drill a good pilot hole. I use two different size center punches to get it started.


----------



## zgrav

Nostradoomus said:


> .... I use two different size center punches to get it started.


Does that mean you use a small punch to create a spot to use the larger punch?  that likely saves a bit of wear on your smaller punch.


----------



## Nostradoomus

Yeah, or if I can’t find my small punch I just use a casing nail.


----------



## jspake

i'll give it a shot. while i'm not technically a machinist, i do machinist type work for a living and have never used a step drill. i have noticed people seem to use them a lot of sheet metal and stuff. interesting!


----------



## ericrudd

I’m a newb. But recently tried drilling with standard bits and a file, then bought a set of step bits. Never will I try drilling an enclosure without them. There is hardly anything more satisfying than admiring a well drilled hole. Well, maybe having a pedal that works is a close second.


----------



## Nostradoomus

ericrudd said:


> There is hardly anything more satisfying than admiring a well drilled hole.


----------



## Barry

You might add how to properly tin stranded wire prior to soldering to board or components, seeing a lot of build post with strands flying everywhere


----------



## Jovi Bon Kenobi

Good Idea! My workbench is disassembled and all in boxes though. Moving to a new state (Oregon). Might be awhile til I get to take a photo. But, I'll add it as a step in there somewhere!


----------



## Nostradoomus

Oregon rules. Also legal drugs! Yay!


----------



## Barry

Nostradoomus said:


> Oregon rules. Also legal drugs! Yay!


Drugs are legal everywhere, except for illegal drugs that are only legal somewhere, does that even make sense?


----------



## Nostradoomus

Fine. Legal previously illegal drugs! Yay!


----------



## spi

This is a great post.  Picked up a few tricks (like I never thought about aligning and soldering the pots on the front of the enclosure instead of inside--I'm definitely going to try this on my next build).

While reading this, it occurred to me I have never ever used flux (other than what's built into the solder), and I've not had issues.  What am I missing out on by not using flux?


----------



## Chuck D. Bones

Barry said:


> Drugs are legal everywhere, except for illegal drugs that are only legal somewhere, does that even make sense?


It does if you're on drugs.


----------



## Chuck D. Bones

spi said:


> While reading this, it occurred to me I have never ever used flux (other than what's built into the solder), and I've not had issues.  What am I missing out on by not using flux?


You're missing out on cleaning up an even bigger flux residue mess.  95% of the time, the solder provides enough flux for my soldering jobs.  The two instances where I use flux are when I'm desoldering with solder braid and when I'm pre-tinning a part that is reluctant to accept solder, like a pot shell or the leads on an old part.  NB, flux does not preclude proper surface preparation on those parts, it just aids it.


----------



## Jovi Bon Kenobi

spi said:


> This is a great post.  Picked up a few tricks (like I never thought about aligning and soldering the pots on the front of the enclosure instead of inside--I'm definitely going to try this on my next build).
> 
> While reading this, it occurred to me I have never ever used flux (other than what's built into the solder), and I've not had issues.  What am I missing out on by not using flux?


If your soldering technique is solid and you are happy with the results you are getting then flux is not necessary. This tutorial was intended for absolute beginners so if one is not confident in their abilities or is not utilizing an ideal setup of tools or ingredients, then flux is simply added insurance to create a solid connection. I think of Flux like using primer before painting. It's not necessary, but generally looks better in the end. It allows the solder to flow or "wet" more freely. Also, I think adding cleanup after using it is equally important.

I'll edit the post to go into a bit more detail.


----------



## doublej

Thanks for this. I’ve built several and wish I had read this earlier. Will def be implementing some of these techniques. If getting components from somewhere reputable how necessary is cleaning each lead?


----------



## Untro

Hey gang, IDK if this has been posted on the forums before, but I was really impressed with the detail in the 'support' tab of Seventh Circle Audio's website. Everything from basic soldering and handling, resistors and capacitors to transformers and lists of suggested gear and procedure, its worth a read even as a refresher! Maybe too much info for the very very brand new, but very clarifying all around. 





__





						FAQ's and Customer Support | Seventh Circle Audio
					

api, 312, 512, 2520, DAV, BG1, BG-1, RNP, neve, 1272, 1073, jensen, twin servo, 990, seventh circle audio, SCA,  A12, C84, J99, N72, T15, DIY, microphone, preamp, electronic, kits




					www.seventhcircleaudio.com


----------



## BurntFingers

doublej said:


> Thanks for this. I’ve built several and wish I had read this earlier. Will def be implementing some of these techniques. If getting components from somewhere reputable how necessary is cleaning each lead?


I've literally never done this and have never had a problem related to it.


----------



## Zodjeiknights

Jovi Bon Kenobi said:


> Hello! This is my method for building a PedalPCB from start to finish. Is it the right way? Not necessarily. It's just what works for me and I hope it sheds some light on certain steps in the process along the way. I created this as a reference guide for anyone to use if needed. Thanks for reading!
> 
> *Step 1: Drill the enclosure.*
> I recommend having this done before starting any soldering as it makes test fitting the fully populated board a whole lot easier later.
> _fig. 1_
> View attachment 1390
> 
> *Key step* Always print the drill template at 100%. Some printers default to "fit to page". You don't want "fit to page" because the template will be about 5% smaller if you do so...enough for a future struggle.
> 
> To attach the template to the enclosure I like using double sided tape. Place the template printed-side down on a flat surface. Put tape on the inside four corners of the drill template face and one in the middle.
> _fig. 2
> View attachment 1391_
> 
> With the template tape-side-up on a flat surface I then carefully lower the enclosure down onto it.
> _fig. 3_
> View attachment 1392
> 
> Once it's on centered and true fold the four sides of the template flush to the enclosure and secure them with regular tape. Use a center punch or an awl and hammer to mark the holes. I use a step bit and cordless drill to make the holes though a drill press is best. I always start by drilling a little bit where I marked the center to give me a more secure starting point then move to the next until all are done this way. This allows me to eyeball and see if I need to correct my final pass for each hole.
> *Side note* After marking the enclosure, some of us like to use a regular drill bit to drill a pilot hole before moving onto the step bit.
> _fig. 4_
> View attachment 1393
> 
> Drill all holes then clean up any burrs from drilling with a needle file, if needed. Thoroughly clean inside and out afterwards with a towel and isopropyl alcohol. Optional, compressed air is nice to have to blow out any remaining debris.
> _fig. 5_
> View attachment 1394


Is there a source for enclosures? I am not finding one here on the site.


----------



## Chuck D. Bones

Yes.  

Try googling 125B enclosure.


----------



## Barry

Zodjeiknights said:


> Is there a source for enclosures? I am not finding one here on the site.


Tayda Electronics has predrilled enclosures for many projects and in varied finishes


----------



## spi

Any tips on getting the led legs soldered when the led is not a straight through? 
I can do it, but it feels like it's a struggle to get the led to stay put while I get the legs bent and lined up in the holes, and then usually it comes undone before I can solder it and I have to repeat.
Maybe there's an easier way I'm missing.


----------



## peccary

spi said:


> Any tips on getting the led legs soldered when the led is not a straight through?
> I can do it, but it feels like it's a struggle to get the led to stay put while I get the legs bent and lined up in the holes, and then usually it comes undone before I can solder it and I have to repeat.
> Maybe there's an easier way I'm missing.
> 
> View attachment 8871



Are you using any kind of "helping hands" tool - Something like this? If not, they can be helpful. I've also been using Blu-Tack recently (after reading multiple people on this forum suggest it) to hold things in pace while soldering and have found it to be super helpful, in particular for oddly-shaped things in weird places.


----------



## Paradox916

Jovi Bon Kenobi said:


> *Step 5: Offboard Wiring*
> _fig. 24_
> View attachment 1388
> For a standard 125B build using all the components seen in fig. 24 I cut all my offboard wires to the same lengths:
> 
> Footswitch breakout board to jack "tip" lug's = 5"
> Footswitch breakout board to main board = depends on main board size
> DC jack to +/- on the board = 1 ⅞"
> Board grounds to jack "sleeve" lug's = 2 ¼"
> 
> Clean the breakout board (if using), flux board and switch lugs, and solder it to the footswitch.
> 
> Flux the wires and the pads they go into then drop the wires into the pads. Lay a piece of tape across all wires and then around the footswitch to hold them in place then solder em in. Like this...
> _fig. 25_
> View attachment 1414
> 
> Clip the leads then clean off the flux residue from the breakout board.
> Bend the middle four leads coming from the breakout board  into a "u", flux them and the pads on the board, then insert them into the board, solder, and clip excess.
> _fig. 26_
> View attachment 1416
> 
> Repeat the process for the north end of the board. Notice I pre-clipped the leads that go into the DC power jack lugs so that I don't have to after soldering them in place.
> _fig. 27_
> View attachment 1415
> 
> Add heat-shrink to the input/output jack wires (if using), solder on the jacks, then position and shrink your tubing.
> _fig. 28_
> View attachment 1417
> 
> *Final assembly.*
> Install your DC jack into the enclosure and position it so that the longer lug is on the left and the shorter lug is on the right. Tighten it down then flux it's lugs.
> If using an LED bezel install it now. For the one I use in the photo below I like to slightly flare out the opening after fitting it in the enclosure. I do this by gently bending the tabs a bit. This allows the LED to drop right in.
> _fig. 29_
> View attachment 1421
> 
> Test your LED so you know it works. Flux the LED legs and the pads on the board where it will go and insert it into the board.
> Drop your completed board into the enclosure and hand tighten all of the nuts and washers onto the pots and switches.
> Solder the DC wires to the power jack. You will need to finesse the input/output jacks out of the way so you have easy access while doing this.
> Solder the LED and then clip the leads.
> Tighten down your input and output jacks.
> Install any of the socketed the components into their sockets if you haven't already, i.e. transistors, IC's, diodes, etc...
> _fig. 30_
> View attachment 1422
> 
> Do a once over on all your nuts to make sure everything is secure. All done!
> _fig. 31_
> View attachment 1423
> 
> Rock out!


This was excellent! I have a few Pedals under my belt but there was a lot of helpful tips here to make my builds a lot cleaner take them to the next level.   Thank you for putting this out there.


----------



## Barry

spi said:


> Any tips on getting the led legs soldered when the led is not a straight through?
> I can do it, but it feels like it's a struggle to get the led to stay put while I get the legs bent and lined up in the holes, and then usually it comes undone before I can solder it and I have to repeat.
> Maybe there's an easier way I'm missing.
> 
> View attachment 8871


I solder the led to a small piece of perf and then use wire from perf to PCB


----------



## jinx_defusing

Jovi Bon Kenobi said:


> _fig. 13_
> View attachment 1361
> 
> ...continued below


The red component... I'm guessing this is a box film capacitor. Why are the leads so long? Are you not supposed to trim them as short as everything else? Anyone want to enlighten me on this? 

I am trying to figure out why all of my attempts have been unsuccessful. I swear to god.. if it is because of this... I will be so happy to know this will be a simple fix for all of these paper weights that I currently have.


----------



## Barry

jinx_defusing said:


> The red component... I'm guessing this is a box film capacitor. Why are the leads so long? Are you not supposed to trim them as short as everything else? Anyone want to enlighten me on this?
> 
> I am trying to figure out why all of my attempts have been unsuccessful. I swear to god.. if it is because of this... I will be so happy to know this will be a simple fix for all of these paper weights that I currently have.


I think he's just showing you there how he uses the blutack to hold it in place to solder it, yes you would trim the leads after soldering, post some pictures of those paper weights in troubleshooting, we can maybe help


----------



## Feral Feline

Thanks for the tutorial, I know I should be cleaning up more after soldering, this really hit it home. Painting is always about the prep work, the better the prep the better the finish. I'll be upping my prep-work as well.

TIP:
For old oxidised PCBs vero perf, go to you local bike shop and ask for a "rim eraser", great for cleaning up metal surfaces such as we use in pedal building. I've even used it to clean some component leads from time to time.


I noticed on the first page ChuckDBones uses IPA to clean up with. While that's a fine choice, I've gone off IPA lately and I prefer a Weiss in the summer and a Stout in the winter. Guinness used to be my choice, but I recently discovered Belhaven Black.







Word to the wise, don't bother with cans, get it in bottles if you can't find Belhaven Black on tap at your local.


----------



## Barry

Feral Feline said:


> Thanks for the tutorial, I know I should be cleaning up more after soldering, this really hit it home. Painting is always about the prep work, the better the prep the better the finish. I'll be upping my prep-work as well.
> 
> TIP:
> For old oxidised PCBs vero perf, go to you local bike shop and ask for a "rim eraser", great for cleaning up metal surfaces such as we use in pedal building. I've even used it to clean some component leads from time to time.
> 
> 
> I noticed on the first page ChuckDBones uses IPA to clean up with. While that's a fine choice, I've gone off IPA lately and I prefer a Weiss in the summer and a Stout in the winter. Guinness used to be my choice, but I recently discovered Belhaven Black.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Word to the wise, don't bother with cans, get it in bottles if you can't find Belhaven Black on tap at your local.


+1 on the Bellhaven Black, I prefer porters and stouts year round, sadly Bellhaven is a little hard to find around here


----------



## djmiyta

Chuck D. Bones said:


> When I clean the leads, I'm usually using scotch-brite to remove the tarnish on my NOS parts.  After soldering, I usually flood the board with IPA and scrub with a toothbrush.  I do this before installing pots and trimpots so I don't transport flux into the pot.  Don't tell my wife I use her toothbrush.


She knows


----------



## djmiyta

Jovi Bon Kenobi said:


> I know I'm playing with fire and may eventually be burned, but since building pedals in this very meticulous and deliberate way I have not run into any troubleshooting issues. The last 20 or so PCBs have worked perfectly. I would always suggest testing it first before going into the enclosure.


I’m the same way and only just recently had problems boxing before rocking. Out of over 200 builds maybe 20-30 had problems and ALL of them builder error Since I too suck at troubleshooting your patient and meticulous way is a route I’m going to implement into my building  I’ve always been extreme in my home component collection with everything clearly labeled and in the right place so I know when I go to grab a part I’m positive that’s what it is that way I save time checking each part is the correct value . There are exceptions but they are rare


----------



## Caldo71

This is GREAT! Several things in here I hadn’t thought of doing which make a lot of sense.


----------



## szukalski

Great tutorial. It helped me a lot.

What helped a lot was using sockets for LEDs. I could never get them lined up right, now I can leave them until the end. Makes changing colour simple as well.


----------



## Vipersassasin

This tutorial way helped me with my first pedal! Other than user error wiring and such, it worked on the "first" try.

I hadn't even thought about using sockets for LEDs or other parts that could be replaced by different values; that would save a TON of time when wiring! I will have to order some single sockets (if they exist) to utilize when building pedals.

Thanks for the tutorial!!!


----------



## Barry

Vipersassasin said:


> This tutorial way helped me with my first pedal! Other than user error wiring and such, it worked on the "first" try.
> 
> I hadn't even thought about using sockets for LEDs or other parts that could be replaced by different values; that would save a TON of time when wiring! I will have to order some single sockets (if they exist) to utilize when building pedals.
> 
> Thanks for the tutorial!!!



You can snap these to whatever number you need









						40 Pin Male 2.54mm Single Row Pin Header Break away Round Pin Gold Plated
					

Get It Fast - Same Day Shipping




					www.taydaelectronics.com


----------



## Vipersassasin

After just looking on Tayda, is there a "breakaway" female version too? The only thing I see is the following which doesn't say it is breakaway:









						40 Pin 2.54mm DIP SIP IC Sockets Adaptor Solder Type
					

Lead Free - Get It Fast - Same Day Shipping




					www.taydaelectronics.com


----------



## giovanni

Vipersassasin said:


> After just looking on Tayda, is there a "breakaway" female version too? The only thing I see is the following which doesn't say it is breakaway:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 40 Pin 2.54mm DIP SIP IC Sockets Adaptor Solder Type
> 
> 
> Lead Free - Get It Fast - Same Day Shipping
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.taydaelectronics.com


That’s what I use. You can cut them to length with an exacto knife.


----------



## szukalski

You can also use your cutters to cut them to length. I found it worked best when you do it quickly with force, a nice brisk snip.


----------



## Feral Feline

I’ve tried knife vs cutters; I used to prefer the snips for the SIPs, but currently I’m getting best results with the xacto knife, sliding* the blade forward as I press down (*sawing implies back and forth).

I get much less exposed pins/breakage than with cutters; perhaps due to better and more consistent control of the angle of the blade compared to cutters. That may change…


----------



## Barry

Feral Feline said:


> I’ve tried knife vs cutters; I used to prefer the snips for the SIPs, but currently I’m getting best results with the xacto knife, sliding* the blade forward as I press down (*sawing implies back and forth).
> 
> I get much less exposed pins/breakage than with cutters; perhaps due to better and more consistent control of the angle of the blade compared to cutters. That may change…


I just clamp where I want to snap with needle nose pliers and snap it off with my fingers, singles or doubles I use another pair of pliers


----------



## Feral Feline

Barry said:


> I just clamp where I want to snap with needle nose pliers and snap it off with my fingers, singles or doubles I use another pair of pliers



I’ve had SIP sockets from several manufacturers, none had the ability to snap off by hand cleanly. Some cheap stuff uses brittle plastic, more expensive product can be more flexible, but either way for exactly those reasons (too brittle/too flexible) the breaks are not clean and waste a lot of pins.

For example:





I won’t use the sockets with exposed pins, I’ll pop out the exposed pins and save those pins for other uses.

You can see the silver SIP socket row on the far right didn’t clip cleanly, there’s some plastic protruding that I’ll shave off for the next bit that I use. The 4-wide SIP with the two centre pins removed is what I use for diodes and resisters experimentation; the silver 4-pin with one exposed pin will be reduced to 3-pin for socketing a transistor or 3-wide with centre-pin removed for socketing a film cap; the gold 3-pin with exposed pin will be narrowed to 2-pin for socketing an electrolytic or LED, etc.

I use the sockets extensively because I like to experiment, can’t make a decisive choice (“what if I change my mind down the road?”), and don’t breadboard enough — but that’s changing, I’m doing a lot more breadboarding now, spurred on by BtR, CdB, fig and others.

Not just breadboarding, but for many other aspects of the hobby, I have to say this forum and members such as yourself have been a good influence on me.


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## Barry

Feral Feline said:


> I’ve had SIP sockets from several manufacturers, none had the ability to snap off by hand cleanly. Some cheap stuff uses brittle plastic, more expensive product can be more flexible, but either way for exactly those reasons (too brittle/too flexible) the breaks are not clean and waste a lot of pins.
> 
> For example:
> 
> View attachment 24392
> 
> I won’t use the sockets with exposed pins, I’ll pop out the exposed pins and save those pins for other uses.
> 
> You can see the silver SIP socket row on the far right didn’t clip cleanly, there’s some plastic protruding that I’ll shave off for the next bit that I use. The 4-wide SIP with the two centre pins removed is what I use for diodes and resisters experimentation; the silver 4-pin with one exposed pin will be reduced to 3-pin for socketing a transistor or 3-wide with centre-pin removed for socketing a film cap; the gold 3-pin with exposed pin will be narrowed to 2-pin for socketing an electrolytic or LED, etc.
> 
> I use the sockets extensively because I like to experiment, can’t make a decisive choice (“what if I change my mind down the road?”), and don’t breadboard enough — but that’s changing, I’m doing a lot more breadboarding now, spurred on by BtR, CdB, fig and others.
> 
> Not just breadboarding, but for many other aspects of the hobby, I have to say this forum and members such as yourself have been a good influence on me.


Guess I'm just lucky that way, never had any of those issues


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## pcb rookie

Feral Feline said:


> I’ve had SIP sockets from several manufacturers, none had the ability to snap off by hand cleanly. Some cheap stuff uses brittle plastic, more expensive product can be more flexible, but either way for exactly those reasons (too brittle/too flexible) the breaks are not clean and waste a lot of pins.
> 
> For example:
> 
> View attachment 24392
> 
> I won’t use the sockets with exposed pins, I’ll pop out the exposed pins and save those pins for other uses.
> 
> You can see the silver SIP socket row on the far right didn’t clip cleanly, there’s some plastic protruding that I’ll shave off for the next bit that I use. The 4-wide SIP with the two centre pins removed is what I use for diodes and resisters experimentation; the silver 4-pin with one exposed pin will be reduced to 3-pin for socketing a transistor or 3-wide with centre-pin removed for socketing a film cap; the gold 3-pin with exposed pin will be narrowed to 2-pin for socketing an electrolytic or LED, etc.
> 
> I use the sockets extensively because I like to experiment, can’t make a decisive choice (“what if I change my mind down the road?”), and don’t breadboard enough — but that’s changing, I’m doing a lot more breadboarding now, spurred on by BtR, CdB, fig and others.
> 
> Not just breadboarding, but for many other aspects of the hobby, I have to say this forum and members such as yourself have been a good influence on me.


Happened to me a couple of times. I now use razor blade to cut the socket strips and it makes a nice clean cut. Never had any problems since.


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## Feral Feline

pcb rookie said:


> Happened to me a couple of times. I now use razor blade to cut the socket strips and it makes a nice clean cut. Never had any problems since.


Yeah, me too.


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## Jimbaaaab

Jovi Bon Kenobi said:


> *Step 2: Prep*
> Clean your PCB. I use isopropyl alcohol and a paper towel.
> _fig. 6_
> View attachment 1336
> 
> *Step 3: Audit components & populate the board*
> With your digital multimeter measure all components for proper value before adding them to the board.
> _fig. 7_
> View attachment 1360
> 
> *A flux pen is recommended.* It will help you avoid any future potentially fouled solder joints. Turn the board over and flux the pads which you will be soldering. Do this in small areas at a time so you don't get flux all over yourself.
> _fig. 8_
> View attachment 1337
> 
> *Clean your leads*
> Again, isopropyl alcohol and towel here.
> _fig. 9_
> View attachment 1358
> Or...
> 
> *Flux your leads...*the area that will touch the PCB pads when properly seated. Start at the component and go out about 1/8".
> _fig. 10_
> View attachment 1365
> 
> Bend the leads. I like to hold the resistors down and bend the leads away from each other a bit so they stay in place when turning the board over.
> _fig. 11_
> View attachment 1342
> 
> Another option is to use blu-tack or poster putty. When using this, try to not smash it down too close to the resistors or it will touch the exposed leads and melt when soldering. I find this method particularly useful when populating box film caps and sockets so they go on straight and tidy.
> *Solder time*
> Most people have preferred temps, tips, and solder, but for the sake of this guide, what I used is a fine point chisel tip in an iron set to roughly 700°F (370°C) and Kester .80mm 63/37 "no-clean" solder. This is not a definitive guide, rather just my current preference.
> 
> Low profile components go in first, i.e. resistors, diodes, next are sockets, trimpots, then film capacitors and electrolytics. Clip the leads after soldering each component or area of components.
> _fig. 12_
> View attachment 1343
> _fig. 13_
> View attachment 1361
> 
> ...continued below


Many thanks for this. How hot do you have your soldering iron and do you have any advice if the solder either balls up on the component leg or creeps up the iron instead of flowing through the PCB?


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## giovanni

I keep mine as hot as it gets. Make sure the tip is clean. If it looks dark, add solder to it and wipe it with a brass sponge. It should look shiny. That helps with heat conduction.

I follow a very simple soldering approach: apply heat to the component leg and PCB pad at the same time with the iron; hold the iron there until the end; count to 5, try to apply solder to the pad; the solder should start flowing to the pad and around the component leg (wait a few more seconds if it doesn’t, like when it balls up); add enough solder to produce a mechanically strong connection but not too much that it bulges into a little ball; remove solder; remove iron; let cool (don’t blow on it).

The balling up means that either the pad or component leg are not hot enough. Follow the steps above to make sure they get there.

Good luck!


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## andare

I use 350-375C now that my technique is more solid. Too hot and the tip oxidizes too fast.
Clean tinned tip, small chisel shape, apply to the pad and lead, count to 2, add solder under the tip, profit.

The best way is what @giovanni described, heating up the pad and lead with the iron so you don't have to touch the tip with the solder, it just flows to the heat. I don't do it because my iron is not powerful enough, it takes too long to heat the pad and I'm afraid I'll burn the pad/lug/PCB.


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## televisiondown

Question about testing a populated board…I have a test rig set up with terminals for IN/OUT/GROUND/9v. I see the boards here have the 9v separate from the pads that go to the foot switch. What is a safe way to hook up to my test rig with this? Would I just do IN/OUT/GROUND, grab the 9v from the top and just ignore the SWITCH pad? Thanks!

Sorry if this is covered somewhere else. I couldn’t find this question specifically.


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## fig

televisiondown said:


> Question about testing a populated board…I have a test rig set up with terminals for IN/OUT/GROUND/9v. I see the boards here have the 9v separate from the pads that go to the foot switch. What is a safe way to hook up to my test rig with this? Would I just do IN/OUT/GROUND, grab the 9v from the top and just ignore the SWITCH pad? Thanks!
> 
> Sorry if this is covered somewhere else. I couldn’t find this question specifically.


Yes, ignore switch and use top pads for power supply and IN/OUT/GND.


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## televisiondown

fig said:


> Yes, ignore switch and use top pads for power supply and IN/OUT/GND.


Thank you! 🙏🏻


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