# First Time Building (Informant Overdrive) - Which Specific Cap, IC Types? (Tayda)



## laundryman (Feb 15, 2021)

I'm putting together everything in my cart on Tayda Electronics to build an *Informant Overdrive* once the PCB is back in stock.  I've got plenty of soldering experience and have rehoused several pedals, and now I want to try my hand at putting a full pedal together.




**The red lines through the resistors were done by me just to keep track of them as I added them to my cart**

I have all of my resistors added - all are 1/4W as per Parts List. I read to go with 1% Metal for all resistors instead of Carbon Film, can anyone confirm this?

Now for the capacitors, when I search for *100nF capacitors on Tayda*, there are several types to choose from, the same goes for a few of the other caps.  Is there a general rule for the type I should be getting as a beginner?  Fine tuning and tweaking is beyond me at the moment and I'm just looking to try the basic build.

I have the same question about specifics regarding the IC's, Diodes, and Pot choices.

Also any other tips or insight for this build would be great.

Thanks!


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## twebb6778 (Feb 15, 2021)

Metal film or carbon film will both work, the only difference is tolerance. Metal film will be 1% tolerance, carbon film will be 5%.

For capacitors, these will come in different packages based on value. For most picofarad values (pF), you can use ceramic or MLCC. For most nanofarad (nF), use box film. For most microfarad (uF), use electrolytic. Electrolytic capacitors come in a bunch of different physical sizes depending on voltage rating. You generally want to get components rated at least twice your operating voltage, so for a 9V pedal you'll want a capacitor that can handle at least 18V. Where the build doc specifies you need a 25V capacitor, you need one that is rated for 25V.

For this build it may be easiest to make sure all your electrolytic capacitors are 25V just to make it a little easier for yourself.

Just be aware that the higher voltage, the bigger the capacitor will physically be. A 100V will still technically work, but will be ridiculously big. Just go for 25V.


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## twebb6778 (Feb 15, 2021)

As for IC's and diodes, just search for those parts on Tayda's website and you'll find what you're looking for. Just be aware that you'll need through-hole varieties of these parts.

TL072 - https://www.taydaelectronics.com/tl072-low-noise-j-fet-dual-op-amp-ic.html
LT1054 - https://www.taydaelectronics.com/lt1054-lt1054cp-charge-pump-switching-regulator-ic.html 
1N914 - https://www.taydaelectronics.com/1n914-small-signal-diode-200ma-100v.html
1N5817 - https://www.taydaelectronics.com/1n5817-diode-schottky-1a-20v.html


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## twebb6778 (Feb 15, 2021)

For pots, it's really up to you and depends on the knobs you plan to use. Just be sure that they have PCB pins rather than solder lugs.

You'll want either solid shaft or spline shaft depending on your knobs. 

Solid shaft - https://www.taydaelectronics.com/100k-ohm-logarithmic-taper-potentiometer-round-shaft-pc-mount.html
Spline shaft - https://www.taydaelectronics.com/lg...r-potentiometer-spline-shaft-pc-mount-41.html


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## twebb6778 (Feb 15, 2021)

Oh! And always always always use sockets for IC's, otherwise they're a huge pain to remove if they need to be replaced.









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## Barry (Feb 15, 2021)

twebb6778 said:


> Metal film or carbon film will both work, the only difference is tolerance. Metal film will be 1% tolerance, carbon film will be 5%.
> 
> For capacitors, these will come in different packages based on value. For most picofarad values (pF), you can use ceramic or MLCC. For most nanofarad (nF), use box film. For most microfarad (uF), use electrolytic. Electrolytic capacitors come in a bunch of different physical sizes depending on voltage rating. You generally want to get components rated at least twice your operating voltage, so for a 9V pedal you'll want a capacitor that can handle at least 18V. Where the build doc specifies you need a 25V capacitor, you need one that is rated for 25V.
> 
> ...


I'd recommend always buying 35V or 50V electrolytics size usually isn't an issue and no worry about safe voltages


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## laundryman (Feb 16, 2021)

twebb6778 said:


> Oh! And always always always use sockets for IC's, otherwise they're a huge pain to remove if they need to be replaced.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Thanks so much for the explanations and links!  Couldn't have been broken down any better.  Can't wait for the PCB to be back in stock, gonna go ahead and get all of the components ordered.

Thank you again.


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## twebb6778 (Feb 16, 2021)

No worries, enjoy! 🤙


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## BuddytheReow (Feb 16, 2021)

Let us know how this turns out! Years of combined knowledge here on this forum and will help with troubleshooting


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## laundryman (Feb 16, 2021)

BuddytheReow said:


> Let us know how this turns out! Years of combined knowledge here on this forum and will help with troubleshooting


Oh I absolutely will.  I love this place already.

Does anyone happen to know a rough time estimate for PCB's restocking?  I need to order and receive all the components from Tayda based in Thailand before I can do anything regardless, but I'm just curious about a heads up as to when I should be on the lookout for the restock e-mail of the Informant Drive (1981 DRV).

Thanks again.


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## peccary (Feb 16, 2021)

laundryman said:


> Oh I absolutely will.  I love this place already.
> 
> Does anyone happen to know a rough time estimate for PCB's restocking?  I need to order and receive all the components from Tayda based in Thailand before I can do anything regardless, but I'm just curious about a heads up as to when I should be on the lookout for the restock e-mail of the Informant Drive (1981 DRV).
> 
> Thanks again.



I think it depends of if the PCB needs updating or anything like that. For example I've been on the Valhalla waitlist for a long time now, but there are some revisions and testing that had to be done. I'm also assuming that Mr PedalPCB knows the number of people on a given waitlist which probably figures in to it somehow as well. The best I can say is that if you've waited a while for one to come in I wouldn't wait much longer to place your order once it becomes available.

If you are ordering from Tayda and in the US I can say that shipping from their Thailand address has been incredibly fast for me when using DHL (west coast USA) - I actually received something from them overnight once, which was pretty nuts, but it usually gets to me within maybe 3-4 days from me placing my order. Ordering with USPS is a different story. I think that they must put the USPS orders at the bottom of the stack or something. If I am ordering a good amount and can justify the ~$10 shipping I will always pick DHL as it usually arrives before they've even shipped with USPS. Canadians seem to have a rough time with DHL, though.


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## laundryman (Feb 16, 2021)

peccary said:


> I think it depends of if the PCB needs updating or anything like that. For example I've been on the Valhalla waitlist for a long time now, but there are some revisions and testing that had to be done. I'm also assuming that Mr PedalPCB knows the number of people on a given waitlist which probably figures in to it somehow as well. The best I can say is that if you've waited a while for one to come in I wouldn't wait much longer to place your order once it becomes available.
> 
> If you are ordering from Tayda and in the US I can say that shipping from their Thailand address has been incredibly fast for me when using DHL (west coast USA) - I actually received something from them overnight once, which was pretty nuts, but it usually gets to me within maybe 3-4 days from me placing my order. Ordering with USPS is a different story. I think that they must put the USPS orders at the bottom of the stack or something. If I am ordering a good amount and can justify the ~$10 shipping I will always pick DHL as it usually arrives before they've even shipped with USPS. Canadians seem to have a rough time with DHL, though.


Sounds good, thanks for the info.

In the meantime I'm going to go ahead and order a Mahayana (Zendrive) PCB and its parts to build.  (https://docs.pedalpcb.com/project/Mahayana.pdf)

Tayda doesn't carry the AD712 IC, and the 1N34A diodes are out of stock at the moment.  Can anyone point me to a website that I can reliably order both of those from?  I'm going to get everything else from Tayda.  I tried google searching AD712 IC Socketed, and the results are overwhelming, I just wanna make sure I'm getting the right thing.

Thanks again.


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## duffy_lane (Feb 16, 2021)

AD712 IC at Mouser
1N34A diode at pedalhacker





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## twebb6778 (Feb 16, 2021)

Instead of the AD712 you could go for the OPA2134 which is available from Tayda. These are both hifi dual opamps with the same pinout.

For the 1N34A, any germanium diode will work. In fact, you could get away with a silicon diode, but it could make a little change your tone. If you want to build it 100% accurate you could wait until they've back in stock, but I'd recommend socketing that diode and seeing how different components sound - 1N914, 1N4148, 1N4001

Diodes are cheap, grab a bunch and see what you like best.


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## spi (Feb 16, 2021)

laundryman said:


> Does anyone happen to know a rough time estimate for PCB's restocking?


I've waited anywhere from a week to a few weeks for PCBs that are out of stock.  It's seems like they get restocked pretty frequently though.



laundryman said:


> Tayda doesn't carry the AD712 IC, and the 1N34A diodes are out of stock at the moment.


I built a Zendrive using a 5532 IC.  You can also use another bat41 in place of the 1n34a--I don't think their forward voltages are that much different.


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