# [SOLVED] FACE Melter trouble... Please HELP :(



## Arasek (Aug 10, 2021)

Hi guys, I am lost... This is not my first build, i have build 3 tube screamers and everyone work just fine. But this face melter is melting my brain right now.. I really dont know what to do now. Please help me find a solution.. Or at least post your PCB wich are working..

When i turn pedal on, i hear Loud 50HZ. Pots doesn't work. Even switch doesn't do anything. When turned off i can hear guitar playing.

There are few links to photos of PCB..
and documentation
https://docs.pedalpcb.com/project/FaceMelter.pdfThank you !









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Ales


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## temol (Aug 10, 2021)

Maybe you should reverse OUT jack wires? Looks like OUT jack tip is connected to pcb GND instead of the 3pdt daughterboard.


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## Arasek (Aug 10, 2021)

temol said:


> Maybe you should reverse OUT jack wires? Looks like OUT jack tip is connected to pcb GND instead of the 3pdt daughterboard.


Hi thanks for your advice. I have replaced wires and finaly i can hear something... Now after turn on i can hear really weak distorted guitar signal. But the pots doesnt work.. What now? Any ideas how to find an issue ?


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## temol (Aug 10, 2021)

What do you mean by "turn on"? Power on or engaging 3pdt switch? Do you have clean guitar signal when bypased?
How about volume pot (labeled LOAD)? Any difference between min and max position? 
What's the voltage on the pins 1, 2, 3, 8 of the IC?


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## Arasek (Aug 10, 2021)

temol said:


> What do you mean by "turn on"? Power on or engaging 3pdt switch? Do you have clean guitar signal when bypased?
> How about volume pot (labeled LOAD)? Any difference between min and max position?
> What's the voltage on the pins 1, 2, 3, 8 of the IC?


Sorry for not being clear. I am not native speaker so excuse my language. I have clean guitar signal when bypassed. When i trigger footswitch[3pdt] and rise volume [load] to max, I hear really but really weak distorted sound. Other POTS doesnt work. The MOIST and GUSH Switch do the job (at least i think since the output signal is so weak.)

1-4,53V
2-4,56V
3-4,34V
4-8,80V
5-0,26V
6-4,55V
7-4,55V
8-4,54V

I also tried to measure diodes and found that diode no.80 (the black one - 1N5817) Has 0,26V on cathode and 0 on Anode. Could this be an issue?


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## Feral Feline (Aug 10, 2021)

Please show a photo of the solder-side of your board.


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## burger-patty-and-bacon (Aug 10, 2021)

If you are using the PCB IO board you should not be soldering anything at all to any of the LUGS on the 3PDT, only the IN OUT SW GND and the far left and far right of that PCB io board go to your in and out jacks.  Wire it EXACTLY like this - don't solder any wires to the 3DPT lugs as you have done.  And do not socket the PCB IO like you've done, those are permanent connections and should be all direct wired.


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## temol (Aug 11, 2021)

Arasek said:


> 1-4,53V
> 2-4,56V
> 3-4,34V
> *4-8,80V*
> ...


Are sou sure about this? Pin 4 it's a GND and should read 0V, pin 8 should read around 9V (minus voltage drop on a 1N5817 diode).
Also - make sure you did not swap places 5k and 500k potentiometers (Dirty, Booty).
Here's a signal path. Make an audio probe (I won't describe how, it's been discussed here many times, use search function) and check the signal level at points marked blue. You should have clean guitar, without boost, up to pin 3 of the IC, then  signal distorted and boosted starting from pin 1.





ps. for the testing you do not need a 3pdt switch. You can wire IN/OUT jacks directly to the board.


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## Stickman393 (Aug 11, 2021)

While I'm certainly a fan of socketing the foot switch board, I'd recommend a JST or similar type connector for this purpose.  The mill-max style pin sockets are not great for wire to board connections...

My primary suggestion here is to clean all the wire to board connections.  Solid core 24AWG copper wire might be a good choice for you; it doesn't fray and it's easy to route.  Use solder wick & a desoldering pump, try to be quick with it...don't linger too long or you'll lift a pad.

Right now, without wanting to be unkind, it's a bit unruly.  A random strand could be creating a short somewhere and it would be difficult to figure out where to start looking.

Best of luck here.


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## burger-patty-and-bacon (Aug 12, 2021)

Op - Did you get your pedal working?


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## Arasek (Aug 13, 2021)

Hey, thank you all for your suggestions. I will look at it at the weekend. Currently i am busy (work, etc...). I ll let you know where the mistakes were made.  <3


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## Arasek (Aug 13, 2021)

UPDATE: Hi guys, i have removed pots, wires and 3pdt board.

I tried to make sure there is not any shorts or weak spots. Also clean the board with Alcohol .
But... There are few things that are wrong, at least i think.
1) I have measured IC pins and there is still 8,4 V on PIN 4. There should be a 0V since it goes to ground.
2) Also there is 4,5 V on PIN 8. There should be 9V - Voltage drop on Diode 1N5817.
3) Voltage measured on DIODE 1n5817 is 0,26V.

What i should do now ?

For now i am not going to even try to put on pots, jacks etc... Because i dont want to destroy PCB..
There is the Solder-side of my board.

THANK YOU GUYS!!! 

[NOTE: I have measured voltage on pins with IC on it... This is just photo without IC. ]









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## PJS (Aug 13, 2021)

First make sure you are numbering the pins correctly.  This is different chip, but all dual op amp ICs have the same pinouts.  Your voltages could be pretty correct if you are numbering the pins incorrectly.


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## Arasek (Aug 14, 2021)

Okay, i am idiot. The correct values are..
1 - 4,54V
2 - 4,56V
3 - 4,53V
4 - 8,56V
5 - 4,50V
6 - 4,59V
7 - 4,57V
8 - 0,26

Gotta check continuity of all spots via schematic. I'll keep you informed.


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## temol (Aug 14, 2021)

Still wrong... pin 4 should read 0V, pin 8 - 8.56V.


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## music6000 (Aug 14, 2021)

If you look at the Board pictured, you can see the Ground pads have 4 small lines!
*Update :* The 2 Circles in Red are Trace from Load 2 pad to Output Pad.


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## Arasek (Aug 14, 2021)

temol said:


> Still wrong... pin 4 should read 0V, pin 8 - 8.56V.


I feel so embarrassed.. Please i need explanation.. When i measured the pins for the first time, i  placed "+" (red probe) to "+"  on pcb board, then i placed (COM black probe) to pin no. 4. IT showed me 8,5V.

THEN i tried second method.. I placed black probe on ground and red probe to pin no. 4. Now i can read the 0 V. This method also show right voltage on pin no. 8 - 8,6V .
How is that even possible.. I am sooo confused. Thanks in advance..


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## Arasek (Aug 14, 2021)

So, i have finally solved the problem, except one humming problem.. As you can see on video, there is white wire which is basically jumper. There was destroyed pad on pcb.








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Please, help me solve this humming problem.. 









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## temol (Aug 14, 2021)

Take deep breath.. relax.. take a look at the schematic. You have to be very meticulous when it comes to troubleshooting.
The red line on a pcb layout connects OUT and middle leg of the DIRTY potentiometer. Are you sure? Maybe middle leg of the LOAD potentiometer?
I do not hear any problems with hum.. it's normal for the drive pedal to hum a bit with controls maxed, expecially bare board, without the enclosure.
Box it and we'll see..
ps. What pickups is your guitar equipped with? Single coils, humbuckers?


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## music6000 (Aug 14, 2021)

Look at my PCB board *Update* above as *temol* has noted, this must be what you have done with the Jumper?


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## Arasek (Aug 10, 2021)

Hi guys, I am lost... This is not my first build, i have build 3 tube screamers and everyone work just fine. But this face melter is melting my brain right now.. I really dont know what to do now. Please help me find a solution.. Or at least post your PCB wich are working..

When i turn pedal on, i hear Loud 50HZ. Pots doesn't work. Even switch doesn't do anything. When turned off i can hear guitar playing.

There are few links to photos of PCB..
and documentation
https://docs.pedalpcb.com/project/FaceMelter.pdfThank you !









						20210810-134557
					

Image 20210810-134557 hosted in ImgBB




					ibb.co
				











						20210810-134633
					

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						20210810-134641
					

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					ibb.co
				











						20210810-134759
					

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					ibb.co
				











						20210810-134843
					

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					ibb.co
				











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						20210810-134927
					

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					ibb.co
				





Ales


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## Arasek (Aug 14, 2021)

music6000 said:


> Look at my PCB board *Update* above as *temol* has noted, this must be what you have done with the Jumper?


Yea this is excatly what i have done. I have marked wrong since its mirrored. :/


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## Arasek (Aug 14, 2021)

*[SOLVED]*
I would like to thank you all for your messages and help... The problem was in damaged pad under pot leg. LUCKILY it was just A->B spot so making jumper was really easy. Needles to say I have also cleaned solder-side board with toothbrush and Alcohol. And re-solder every single spot on it (which could also help, but don't know for sure). There was also problem with humming and beeping which was solved by different (isolated power supply in my pedalboard) power supply.

Conclusion:
Don't be a silly Billy like me. And work calmly with a clear mind, and If something goes wrong, get some sleep and try it next day otherwise you could make it even worse.. 

Here is small low q video of pedal.








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THANK YOU  <3


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## Chris420 (Aug 30, 2021)

Arasek said:


> *[SOLVED]*
> I would like to thank you all for your messages and help... The problem was in damaged pad under pot leg. LUCKILY it was just A->B spot so making jumper was really easy. Needles to say I have also cleaned solder-side board with toothbrush and Alcohol. And re-solder every single spot on it (which could also help, but don't know for sure). There was also problem with humming and beeping which was solved by different (isolated power supply in my pedalboard) power supply.
> 
> Conclusion:
> ...


Hi Awesome job!! could you post a close up picture of the finished board is possible.I just bought this pcb and I’m trying to figure out what the right parts to buy are. Im new to this and some of the parts are a little confusing for me. The parts have different voltages (as shown in picture) and im not sure which i need. Any help building this would be greatly appreciated 🙂


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## Robert (Aug 30, 2021)

Chris420 said:


> The parts have different voltages (as shown in picture) and im not sure which i need.


For the electrolytic capacitors on this build you would want 16V - 25V.      Any voltage 16V or higher will work, but the physical size increases with voltage so higher voltage capacitors would be a tight fit.


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## Chris420 (Aug 30, 2021)

Robert said:


> For the electrolytic capacitors on this build you would want 16V - 25V.      Any voltage 16V or higher will work, but the physical size increases with voltage so higher voltage capacitors would be a tight fit.


Thank you so much 🙂 would you happen to be able to point me in the right direction for the input/output/power supply parts? Ive seen some that are combined into one piece but I’m not sure if it would work or if it has to be individual to work with the pcb. Unfortunately I did not see those parts listed on the document and not sure what to search to find them to purchase them. 
Thanks again very much appreciated the fast reply. 🥰


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## spi (Aug 31, 2021)

@Arasek there's a button to mark a troubleshooting thread as solved (so you don't have to change the title--it'll post a pretty icon there for you).


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