# Pads Done Come Off...



## Coda (Apr 15, 2021)

not paying close enough attention, I soldered a pot in upside down. It was hell to remove (new, lead free solder...it’s very sticky, seemingly). Anywho, when I got the pot out, two of the three pads came with it. Is it game over for this PCB? Will it make a difference? Is it fixable?...


----------



## fig (Apr 15, 2021)

You'll want a second opinion, but I've jumped from the pot lug to the next component in a pinch.


----------



## SYLV9ST9R (Apr 15, 2021)

fig said:


> You'll want a second opinion, but I've jumped from the pot lug to the next component in a pinch.


Yep, done that too after someone on the forum recommended that.


----------



## Coda (Apr 15, 2021)

Ok, a follow up. How do I know which side of the resistor to connect the jump to? The schematic has “1” and “2” labels, so how does that correspond to the pcb?


----------



## fig (Apr 15, 2021)

I think a bit more info will be needed;

What are you building, and which pad was damaged?


----------



## Coda (Apr 15, 2021)

fig said:


> I think a bit more info will be needed;
> 
> What are you building, and which pad was damaged?


Univox Super Fuzz, pads 2 and 3 off of the Balance pot.


----------



## fig (Apr 15, 2021)

Looks like lug 2 will go to the negative side of C14 and lug 3 will go to the tone switch (the lug with the resistor?).

I'd try jumpers before soldering, or maybe someone can verify?


----------



## Coda (Apr 15, 2021)

Good catch. I completely overlooked the tone switch. Looks like it would connect to the middle lug of the switch.

Are there any rules for jumps? Which side of the board, regular wire, etc?...


----------



## fig (Apr 15, 2021)

Coda said:


> Good catch. I completely overlooked the tone switch. Looks like it would connect to the middle lug of the switch.
> 
> Are there any rules for jumps? Which side of the board, regular wire, etc?...


rules? we don't need no stinkin' rules!

Point A to B and nothing in between. Mind the clearances where necessary. solder-side is usually easier, but you decide.


----------



## music6000 (Apr 15, 2021)

Coda said:


> Good catch. I completely overlooked the tone switch. Looks like it would connect to the middle lug of the switch.
> 
> Are there any rules for jumps? Which side of the board, regular wire, etc?...


Solder side of the Board, Twist wire in a circle around Pot leg to form a new pad :


----------



## Coda (Apr 15, 2021)

music6000 said:


> Solder side of the Board, Twist wire in a circle around Pot leg to form a new pad :
> 
> View attachment 11015


I only need to jump red and green. The blue  pad is still there.


----------



## music6000 (Apr 15, 2021)

Coda said:


> I only need to jump red and green. The blue  pad is still there.


I did that because Pad 1 is Green, Pad 2 is Red, Pad 3 is Blue on all Pot Legs !!!
Test for Continuity from Blue Pad 3 to Toggle switch Blue centre pad.


----------



## Coda (Apr 15, 2021)

music6000 said:


> I did that because Pad 1 is Green, Pad 2 is Red, Pad 3 is Blue on Pot Legs !!!
> Test for Continuity from Blue Pad 3 to Toggle switch Blue centre pad.


Well, I did say I had it in upside down, originally. I just checked the points you specified, and all of them are connected to each other. So this means I’m good, right?


----------



## music6000 (Apr 15, 2021)

Yes, Should be good to go!
Green is Ground.


----------



## Coda (Apr 15, 2021)

music6000 said:


> Yes, Should be good to go!
> Green is Ground.


Ok. Good. Now I have to make sure that my 1N34A’s are actually 1N34A’s...


----------



## music6000 (Apr 16, 2021)

Coda said:


> Ok. Good. Now I have to make sure that my 1N34A’s are actually 1N34A’s...


What is the forward voltage, Are they from Tayda or Ebay?


----------



## Coda (Apr 16, 2021)

music6000 said:


> What is the forward voltage, Are they from Tayda or Ebay?


Guitar Parts Plus, .254. It was also pointed out that they could be Schottkeys...


----------



## fig (Apr 16, 2021)

It's in range of an 1n34A, maybe a bit on the lower end. Could be like an NTE109 maybe?


----------



## Coda (Apr 16, 2021)

fig said:


> It's in range of an 1n34A, maybe a bit on the lower end. Could be like an NTE109 maybe?


Wouldn't a Schottkey be about .2? I do have some hesitance in using them in this circuit (Super Fuzz). I attempted to build a Tone Machine last autumn, and could never get it to work. I wonder if these diodes were the reason, since they may not be what they are labeled.


----------



## music6000 (Apr 16, 2021)

If this is it, It's not a 1N34A Germanium!
Maybe a 1N60?









						1N34A Germanium Diode
					

1N34A Germanium Diode - great for signal clipping!




					guitarpedalparts.com


----------



## Coda (Apr 15, 2021)

not paying close enough attention, I soldered a pot in upside down. It was hell to remove (new, lead free solder...it’s very sticky, seemingly). Anywho, when I got the pot out, two of the three pads came with it. Is it game over for this PCB? Will it make a difference? Is it fixable?...


----------



## Coda (Apr 16, 2021)

music6000 said:


> If this is it, It's not a 1N34A Germanium!
> Maybe a 1N60?
> 
> 
> ...



That's it. I sent an email to the company.


----------



## music6000 (Apr 16, 2021)

1N34A come in a DO-7 Glass package.
Yours are a DO-35 package, Way smaller!


----------



## fig (Apr 16, 2021)

Here are two of mine, different casings


----------



## fig (Apr 16, 2021)

@music6000 is right though...size is relative.

Why, this diode is the size of a full-grown Wookie


----------



## Chuck D. Bones (Apr 16, 2021)

Measure the reverse resistance.  Then warm it up with your fingers and watch how the resistance drops.  Most Germanium diodes are very leaky and the leakage is very temperature sensitive.


----------



## Coda (Apr 16, 2021)

Chuck D. Bones said:


> Measure the reverse resistance.  Then warm it up with your fingers and watch how the resistance drops.  Most Germanium diodes are very leaky and the leakage is very temperature sensitive.


I measured it again and got .266, which is about what I got earlier. I held it between two fingers for a few minutes, and measured again. The numbers went all over the place; from .335 to .1024. Did I do it right?


----------



## Chuck D. Bones (Apr 16, 2021)

No


----------



## Chuck D. Bones (Apr 16, 2021)

Reverse the meter leads so that the red lead is on the cathode.  Set the meter to measure resistance.  If your meter auto-ranges, it will probably bounce round.  Find the manual range that gives the highers reading.  Now try the touch test again.

Some Schottky diodes are leaky, but not all that temperature dependent.  Other Schottky diodes have very low leakage and will read OL on any resistance range.


----------



## Coda (Apr 16, 2021)

Chuck D. Bones said:


> Reverse the meter leads so that the red lead is on the cathode.  Set the meter to measure resistance.  If your meter auto-ranges, it will probably bounce round.  Find the manual range that gives the highers reading.  Now try the touch test again.
> 
> Some Schottky diodes are leaky, but not all that temperature dependent.  Other Schottky diodes have very low leakage and will read OL on any resistance range.


Measured in reverse I get OL, with and without finger warmth.


----------



## Chuck D. Bones (Apr 16, 2021)

You tried all of the resistance ranges?


----------



## Coda (Apr 17, 2021)

Chuck D. Bones said:


> You tried all of the resistance ranges?


Just re-ran the rest though all settings;

20M: 0.83 (forward), around 5 (reverse)
2000k: 280, OL
200k: 65.7, OL
20k: 14.74, OL
2000: 287, OL
200: OL, OL

When I performed the heat test in reverse voltage, I got OL across the board...except in the 20M setting, which started at 1.3, and climbed to 5.21.


----------



## Chuck D. Bones (Apr 17, 2021)

Based on the 20M data, you have either a very low leakage Germanium (unlikely) or a Schottky diode (very likely).  If your diode looks like the one in the GPP photo, then I'm confident that it is Schottky.  GPP should know better than to sell Schottky and call it Germanium.  Those diodes will work ok in that pedal.  Some people (I'm one of 'em) prefer Schottkys in the octave section (D1 & D4).  D2 & D3 need to be real Ge for the true mojo, doesn't have to be 1N34A.  Will anyone hear the difference?  Mmmmmmmmaaaaaaybeeeeeeeee.


----------



## fig (Apr 17, 2021)

That's a big maybe!


----------



## peccary (Apr 17, 2021)

I've had a good experience with Pedal Hacker. Might want to check them out if you're able. 



			Pedalhacker Audio Grade Guitar Effect Pedal Electronic Components


----------



## Barry (Apr 17, 2021)

peccary said:


> I've had a good experience with Pedal Hacker. Might want to check them out if you're able.
> 
> 
> 
> Pedalhacker Audio Grade Guitar Effect Pedal Electronic Components


+1 for pedal hacker


----------

