# THAT4305/FXCore/FV-1



## fig (Nov 19, 2021)

This is on the way to me, and a few spare chips. I'm thinking mind-blowing compression 🤯



			https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/407/4305data-2915.pdf


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## Paradox916 (Nov 19, 2021)

I have looked at that one too... kinda cool.


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## Mcknib (Nov 19, 2021)

Ooh nice I don't know what it is but

Make a dynamic ducker sounds cool






						Ducking - Wikipedia
					






					en.wikipedia.org


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## fig (Nov 19, 2021)

Mcknib said:


> Ooh nice I don't know what it is but
> 
> Make a dynamic ducker sounds cool
> 
> ...


Hmm, a ducky dynamic ducker you say? I'll twy to cwack that out.


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## Mcknib (Nov 19, 2021)

Interesting









						What Is Sidechain and How To Use It? Abbey Road Recordist Matt Jones Explains
					

Do you ever find your mix sounds great on one section of your track, but overcrowded or muddy on another part once more textures come in? If so, you may want to try using sidechaining. Abbey Road Recordist Matt Jones explains what sidechaining is, how to use it and his tips on how to achieve the...




					www.abbeyroad.com
				



















						Pumping (audio) - Wikipedia
					






					en.wikipedia.org
				




Do a ducking pumpin side chain compressor.......

My wallets out already


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## fig (Nov 19, 2021)

Looks like I've got all the needed intel...I'll do some reading, thanks! 😃

Lets put a donk on it


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## fig (Nov 24, 2021)

Mcknib said:


> Interesting
> 
> 
> 
> ...


The THAT4305 dev board and info packet arrived today from Mouser....in case anyone has an interest in what you get...















I'm reading up on the side-chaining feature. 😎


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## benny_profane (Nov 24, 2021)

I'm really surprised to see through-hole parts on an EV kit / demo board. Interested to learn what you find out here.


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## fig (Nov 30, 2021)

Deeper fig, you must go deeeeeeeper ....


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## Bricksnbeatles (Nov 30, 2021)

fig said:


> Deeper fig, you must go deeeeeeeper ....


Are those the FXcore that you ordered on the bubble back in the top left?


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## fig (Nov 30, 2021)

Bricksnbeatles said:


> Are those the FXcore that you ordered on the bubble back in the top left?


Yes sir. Ohhh so why did I post it here? Gotcha. No idea....Too many projects, not enough brain cells.
The dev board seems good for testing features and programming in an end-user environment, but as others have noted, not a realistic framework for a pedal. The PedalPCB FV-1 dev board bridges that gap. I'm not all that interested in the coding of any of these chips in the sense of creativity. I _am_ interested in the viability of these cheeps in terms of DIY, as well as the challenges they present.

Edit: Challenge #1 being finally editing all the typos in this post. sheesh!


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## fig (Dec 1, 2021)

Here's the FXCore dev board...


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## fig (Dec 1, 2021)

Someone walk me off this ledge or go on and give me a shove...

THIS looks stupid-simple.....


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## Bricksnbeatles (Dec 1, 2021)

fig said:


> Someone walk me off this ledge or go on and give me a shove...
> 
> THIS looks stupid-simple.....


Solder paste is quite literally that simple to use. For stuff where there’s only SMD on one side of the board you can even use a toaster oven instead of a dedicated hot air station if you’re careful. That’s actually the only method in which I’ve used solder paste myself (hot air stations are expensive!) and it worked quite well— I used the same toaster that I use for curing paint and stabilizing resin. Just don’t use anything you actually put food in


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## Harry Klippton (Dec 1, 2021)

Bricksnbeatles said:


> Solder paste is quite literally that simple to use. For stuff where there’s only SMD on one side of the board you can even use a toaster oven instead of a dedicated hot air station if you’re careful. That’s actually the only method in which I’ve used solder paste myself (hot air stations are expensive!) and it worked quite well— I used the same toaster that I use for curing paint and stabilizing resin. Just don’t use anything you actually put food in


My sole attempt at curing paint in my toaster oven did not yield the results I was hoping for. Got any pointers Nick?


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## vigilante398 (Dec 1, 2021)

Bricksnbeatles said:


> hot air stations are expensive!


My hot air station was only $60. There are expensive stations out there, but you don't need fancy to get the job done. When I do whole boards with stencil and paste I use my $200 reflow oven (also a bargain if you're doing a lot of SMD), but for two or three components on a board I'll use the hot air station.

With regards to FXCore I've been impressed with the sound quality and options compared to FV-1, but I haven't had a chance to actually do anything DIY with FXCore since the external ADC/DAC I was looking at got hit by the semiconductor shortage. I know Alexander uses it in one of his new pedals, and I saw one guy do a build with one on another forum, but that's all I've seen of FXCore in the wild.


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## vigilante398 (Dec 1, 2021)

Harry Klippton said:


> My sole attempt at curing paint in my toaster oven did not yield the results I was hoping for. Got any pointers Nick?


THIN COATS OF PAINT.

I always did 15 minutes at 300 degrees, but I've seen people do lower temps for longer times as well.


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## Harry Klippton (Dec 1, 2021)

vigilante398 said:


> THIN COATS OF PAINT.
> 
> I always did 15 minutes at 300 degrees, but I've seen people do lower temps for longer times as well.


It was hammertone, which I found didn't hammer as well with thin coats


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## fig (Dec 1, 2021)

vigilante398 said:


> My hot air station was only $60. There are expensive stations out there, but you don't need fancy to get the job done. When I do whole boards with stencil and paste I use my $200 reflow oven (also a bargain if you're doing a lot of SMD), but for two or three components on a board I'll use the hot air station.
> 
> With regards to FXCore I've been impressed with the sound quality and options compared to FV-1, but I haven't had a chance to actually do anything DIY with FXCore since the external ADC/DAC I was looking at got hit by the semiconductor shortage. I know Alexander uses it in one of his new pedals, and I saw one guy do a build with one on another forum, but that's all I've seen of FXCore in the wild.


Absolutely. The M8000s are rare...I have a couple of CS5368s I hope will play along nicely. CabinTech has some M9000s.


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## Bricksnbeatles (Dec 1, 2021)

Harry Klippton said:


> My sole attempt at curing paint in my toaster oven did not yield the results I was hoping for. Got any pointers Nick?


Primer and paint I’ve had good results with 250° for 25 min. Still haven’t found good results of any kind with clear coats— baked or not.


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## vigilante398 (Dec 1, 2021)

Harry Klippton said:


> It was hammertone, which I found didn't hammer as well with thin coats


Is that the Rustoleum? I did a Rustoleum hammered spray a couple times in my toaster oven with the same settings, trying to remember if I used primer first. I guess still go as thin as possible while still getting the look?



fig said:


> Absolutely. The M8000s are rare...I have a couple of CS5368s I hope will play along nicely. CabinTech has some M9000s.


Ah, good to know, thanks! 



Bricksnbeatles said:


> Primer and paint I’ve had good results with 250° for 25 min. Still haven’t found good results of any kind with clear coats— baked or not.


I used to use Rustoleum gloss clear baked at 300° and it looked okay after a couple coats, but I was never thrilled with it. Now I'm fancy and do powdercoating so all my clears look amazing


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## Bricksnbeatles (Dec 1, 2021)

vigilante398 said:


> I used to use Rustoleum gloss clear baked at 300° and it looked okay after a couple coats, but I was never thrilled with it. Now I'm fancy and do powdercoating so all my clears look amazing


I found the rustoleum to be pretty good as far as not-staying tacky goes, and it’s moderately scratch resistant. I also found it to develop impressions in it over time around hardware and when sitting on surfaces, and even with proper prep, it had adhesion issues and flaked quite a lot wherever it was exposed to moderate pressure.
The duplicolor clear went on nice and looks good, but it doesn’t dry well— both baked and unbaked, I found that it stayed tacky and prone to getting caked with dust and pet hair even 2 full years later. 
The Kyrlon stuff was just terrible— yellowed way too much, and only about as durable as Polycrylic. 

I’ve heavily considered powder coating more recently, but oh boy it’s a bit of a steep upfront  investment!


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## vigilante398 (Dec 1, 2021)

Bricksnbeatles said:


> I found the rustoleum to be pretty good as far as not-staying tacky goes, and it’s moderately scratch resistant. I also found it to develop impressions in it over time around hardware and when sitting on surfaces, and even with proper prep, it had adhesion issues and flaked quite a lot wherever it was exposed to moderate pressure.
> The duplicolor clear went on nice and looks good, but it doesn’t dry well— both baked and unbaked, I found that it stayed tacky and prone to getting caked with dust and pet hair even 2 full years later.
> The Kyrlon stuff was just terrible— yellowed way too much, and only about as durable as Polycrylic.
> 
> I’ve heavily considered powder coating more recently, but oh boy it’s a bit of a steep upfront  investment!


I always went with Rustoleum, I particularly liked their metallic finishes. They did always seem to flake though. I had pretty good luck with solid color Rustoleum. Never tried Duplicolor, but my experience with Krylon was the same, completely awful.

I started with a $70 powdercoating setup from Harbor Freight Tools, it got the job done. Got a large cardboard box, cut one side off, ran a piece of baling wire through it for the ground to clip on to, and boom had my low-cost powder coating setup. Powders range from $10 (HFT) to $20 or so (Prismatic) for a pound, which coats a good number of pedals. I also kept using my paint-curing toaster oven for powder coat curing and it did just fine. I guess you do need an air compressor, so if you don't already have one that's a cost. Also if you don't have space to do it outside you'll need some way to control/contain the mess, so that's a thing as well.

I guess all things considered you're probably looking at $200-ish to get started in powdercoating, so a bit of an investment for a hobby, but it was well worth it to me. Plus my wife has been impressed with the results so she commissions me to powdercoat various things around the house to match the color scheme she has, and if my wife encourages me to use one tool, that's implied consent to buy another


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## fig (Dec 3, 2021)

The large corkscrew is an enclosure screw for scale.


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