# Flock Harmonizing Fuzz - Arriving Soon!!!



## music6000

Flock Harmonizing Fuzz - PedalPCB.com
					

Compare to Beetronics Swarm




					www.pedalpcb.com


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## cwsquared

Apparently not available right now.  It was until I went to add to my cart.  I was too slow.  Maybe it was a sign I need to build what I already have.


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## Dan0h

Dang it! I knew I should of rage ordered at work when I had it in my cart. This one I almost considered buying the real one.


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## music6000

Dan0h said:


> Dang it! I knew I should of rage ordered at work when I had it in my cart. This one I almost considered buying the real one.


First In, First Served!


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## Robert

Dan0h said:


> Dang it! I knew I should of rage ordered at work when I had it in my cart. This one I almost considered buying the real one.



More are on the way, this was a small prototype batch.


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## Snowcdh

Robert said:


> More are on the way, this was a small prototype batch.


1 pole 12 position switch? Alpha SR2511 work?


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## Dan0h

Ironically I dug out my Mammoth Deviator build and was able to get a few of the swarmy sounds out of it. That will tide me over until stock comes back in. 

Is this just two blue boxes with better tweak-ability in one box?


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## Robert

Snowcdh said:


> 1 pole 12 position switch? Alpha SR2511 work?



The PCB was designed for the SR2612F type rotary switches. (or SR2611F with the solder eyelets clipped off)


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## music6000

Robert said:


> The PCB was designed for the SR2612F type rotary switches. (or SR2611F with the solder eyelets clipped off)


This one needs to be the 1 pole - 12 position adjustable type so you can restrict it to 9 poles.
This is done with a adjustable locking washer at the base of the shaft to go from 2 positions to 12 positions.
It takes a 3/8'' or 10mm  mounting hole!


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## Ctrl4Smilerz

Awesome, really looking forward to building this one. Does anyone know if this circuit is a PLL? I thought I had read that somewhere, but can't find it now.


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## Bricksnbeatles

Ctrl4Smilerz said:


> Awesome, really looking forward to building this one. Does anyone know if this circuit is a PLL? I thought I had read that somewhere, but can't find it now.


Indeed it is


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## Bobbyd67

cwsquared said:


> Apparently not available right now.  It was until I went to add to my cart.  I was too slow.  Maybe it was a sign I need to build what I already have.


Yeah definitely am gonna wait and finish my 4th of July order before ordering one of these too xD. Kinda glad they sold out fast


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## music6000

Ctrl4Smilerz said:


> Awesome, really looking forward to building this one. Does anyone know if this circuit is a PLL? I thought I had read that somewhere, but can't find it now.


Here's a good read! :








						9 of the Best Compact and Medium Format Schumann PLL Style Harmonizer Fuzz Pedals
					

Guitar Pedals, Guitars and Amps -  contextual overviews and comparisons, insights and recommendations




					www.guitarpedalx.com


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## Quirkey

Very excited for this! What are the ICs?


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## fevezzani

Quirkey said:


> Very excited for this! What are the ICs?


Based on a photo of the original circuit, is: 
- TL022
- CD4017
- CD4024
- CD4046

Problaby is the same ICs for the Flock!


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## G.G.

Can anyone give their elevator pitch for the difference between the Swarm & the Data Corrupter? I watched a few vids and really liked the sounds in ThePedalZone Data Corrupter vid, but not so much in others. Maybe depends who's playing it? The Swarm sounds interesting too but again depending on who's playing it. Any thoughts?


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## DGWVI

music6000 said:


> Here's a good read! :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 9 of the Best Compact and Medium Format Schumann PLL Style Harmonizer Fuzz Pedals
> 
> 
> Guitar Pedals, Guitars and Amps -  contextual overviews and comparisons, insights and recommendations
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.guitarpedalx.com


I feel like they left out Parasit's best PLL- the Into the Unknown. I'm also quite fond of the Multiwave


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## Robert

I've decided to make an update to the Flock PCB....  

I initially wanted to avoid a breakout board for the rotary switch because someone inevitably will install it upside down on the rotary, but after some debating with myself I've decided to go ahead and go that direction.

The rotary switch puts the PCB at a height where 16mm pot pins just barely make it.   It's absolutely doable, but a little tricky to assemble.

Washers under each pot (inside the enclosure) can lift them up enough that this is not an issue at all, but in the end I decided it'd just be easier to include a breakout board.


I've also updated the rotary switch footprint to work with the solder lug rotary switches available from Tayda Electronics, since the PCB pin mount versions can be harder to find.     No lead clipping required!    

If you received one of the first revision PCBs and would like the updated board just shoot me a message.


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## Dan0h

Robert said:


> I've decided to make an update to the Flock PCB....
> 
> I initially wanted to avoid a breakout board for the rotary switch because someone inevitably will install it upside down on the rotary, but after some debating with myself I've decided to go ahead and go that direction.
> 
> The rotary switch puts the PCB at a height where 16mm pot pins just barely make it.   It's absolutely doable, but a little tricky to assemble.
> 
> Washers under each pot (inside the enclosure) can lift them up enough that this is not an issue at all, but in the end I decided it'd just be easier to include a breakout board.
> 
> 
> If you received one of the first revision PCBs and would like the updated board just shoot me a message.
> 
> View attachment 30385


Saw this and thought they were in stock…. 🤣


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## jeffwhitfield

Robert said:


> I've decided to make an update to the Flock PCB....
> 
> I initially wanted to avoid a breakout board for the rotary switch because someone inevitably will install it upside down on the rotary, but after some debating with myself I've decided to go ahead and go that direction.
> 
> The rotary switch puts the PCB at a height where 16mm pot pins just barely make it.   It's absolutely doable, but a little tricky to assemble.
> 
> Washers under each pot (inside the enclosure) can lift them up enough that this is not an issue at all, but in the end I decided it'd just be easier to include a breakout board.
> 
> 
> I've also updated the rotary switch footprint to work with the solder lug rotary switches available from Tayda Electronics, since the PCB pin mount versions can be harder to find.     No lead clipping required!
> 
> If you received one of the first revision PCBs and would like the updated board just shoot me a message.
> 
> View attachment 30385


Other than the updated rotary, if everything else is the same, I'll be happy to just stick with the first revision. No biggie. 

Good tip on the pots. I might end up using the longer lead pots for mine to avoid any issues with the height.


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## Robert

That's the only difference.

I did a contract PCB for a particular builder a few years ago who insisted on using the larger type rotary switch (and no breakout) even though the mini 16mm rotary switches would have worked fine.   What they did was bend the pot lugs near the body slightly to get a bit more length.

It really isn't necessary though, they _will _reach, you just can't drop them all the way down to sit flush against the PCB.


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## music6000

jeffwhitfield said:


> Other than the updated rotary, if everything else is the same, I'll be happy to just stick with the first revision. No biggie.
> 
> Good tip on the pots. I might end up using the longer lead pots for mine to avoid any issues with the height.


That becomes a bigger issue in the 1590BB as it is to close to the Lid for components.
I would just carefully pushed the 16mm pot legs up a little higher & straighten them up!


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## Robert

As long as you mount the PCB to the rotary switch first then bend the leads of the long pin pots to match that height you shouldn't have any problems.


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## fig

Robert said:


> As long as you mount the PCB to the rotary switch first then bend the leads of the long pin pots to match that height you shouldn't have any problems.


Cool, so the IRS audit will go away. I’m on it!


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## Robert

fig said:


> Cool, so the IRS audit will go away. I’m on it!



I make no guarantees but it's worth a shot.


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## jeffwhitfield

With boards that use rotary switches, I typically mount the pots to the board first by spot soldering the center pin a bit to hold it in place. I don't typically mount it flush to the board but instead just enough for the pin to stick up a bit off the PCB. From there, I add the rotary switch to the board but don't solder it yet. Instead, I just bend the leads in a bit to hold it in place. Once it's all in, I'll add the washers and nuts but only hand tighten them just so that everything is flush to the enclosure. From there, solder the pots in place followed by the rotary switch. Works well and insures that the pots are positioned well.


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## Quirkey

Robert said:


> I've decided to make an update to the Flock PCB....
> 
> I initially wanted to avoid a breakout board for the rotary switch because someone inevitably will install it upside down on the rotary, but after some debating with myself I've decided to go ahead and go that direction.
> 
> The rotary switch puts the PCB at a height where 16mm pot pins just barely make it.   It's absolutely doable, but a little tricky to assemble.
> 
> Washers under each pot (inside the enclosure) can lift them up enough that this is not an issue at all, but in the end I decided it'd just be easier to include a breakout board.
> 
> 
> I've also updated the rotary switch footprint to work with the solder lug rotary switches available from Tayda Electronics, since the PCB pin mount versions can be harder to find.     No lead clipping required!
> 
> If you received one of the first revision PCBs and would like the updated board just shoot me a message.
> 
> View attachment 30385


I have an original but got the right switch so I'm ok. Would love a drill template, though!


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## Quirkey

Robert said:


> https://docs.pedalpcb.com/project/drill/1590BB-DrillTemplate_Flock.pdf


🙏 thanks!!


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## Ctrl4Smilerz

Any chance we can get a parts list for this? I missed a capacitor on my Derailer build and need to place a Mouser order, so I'd like to order the parts for this along with it. TIA


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## Robert

You _might_ want to get the rotary switch from Tayda.    I have one from Mouser and the shaft is way too long.

If you already have the PCB you'll need to clip the solder lugs off the rotary switch (don't clip them too short) and you won't need the pinheaders at the bottom of the list.

If you're waiting for the restock the solder lugs should fit on that revision, and you'll either want the pinheaders or some solid core wire / lead clippings to connect the breakout boards.


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## Ctrl4Smilerz

Robert said:


> You _might_ want to get the rotary switch from Tayda.    I have one from Mouser and the shaft is way too long.
> 
> If you already have the PCB you'll need to clip the solder lugs off the rotary switch (don't clip them too short) and you won't need the pinheaders at the bottom of the list.
> 
> If you're waiting for the restock the solder lugs should fit on that revision, and you'll either want the pinheaders or some solid core wire / lead clippings to connect the breakout boards.


Awesome, thanks!


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## Ctrl4Smilerz

Robert said:


> You _might_ want to get the rotary switch from Tayda.    I have one from Mouser and the shaft is way too long.
> 
> If you already have the PCB you'll need to clip the solder lugs off the rotary switch (don't clip them too short) and you won't need the pinheaders at the bottom of the list.
> 
> If you're waiting for the restock the solder lugs should fit on that revision, and you'll either want the pinheaders or some solid core wire / lead clippings to connect the breakout boards.


The 10u and 100u caps are electrolytic? And the pinheader should be straight, not right angled?


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## Robert

They are, and that's correct.

I haven't built the new revision with the breakout boards yet (because they aren't here yet, lol) but I don't expect there to be a problem.   The pads between the boards _should _align properly so straight pinheaders can be used between them.

I will, of course, build one as soon as they arrive to confirm that everything is good to go.


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## Robusto

fevezzani said:


> Based on a photo of the original circuit, is:
> - TL022
> - CD4017
> - CD4024
> - CD4046
> 
> Problaby is the same ICs for the Flock!




@PedalPCB please do tell - is this correct? I want to plan ahead for this! Very excited! x100 😘


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## Robert

The parts list is here:






						Flock Harmonizing Fuzz
					

Flock Harmonizing Fuzz




					forum.pedalpcb.com


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## PangeaDestructor

Any suggestions on a good knob for that rotary switch? I usually use the knurled shaft for rotaries, no experience with the plastic shafts like on the suggested one. Do you just crank the screw so it digs into the plastic shaft?


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## Robert

PangeaDestructor said:


> Any suggestions on a good knob for that rotary switch? I usually use the knurled shaft for rotaries, no experience with the plastic shafts like on the suggested one. Do you just crank the screw so it digs into the plastic shaft?



That's what I've done.   It doesn't take a whole lot of force, they seem to grab pretty good without much "digging in" needed.


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## Nickpick67

Robert said:


> I've decided to make an update to the Flock PCB....
> 
> I initially wanted to avoid a breakout board for the rotary switch because someone inevitably will install it upside down on the rotary, but after some debating with myself I've decided to go ahead and go that direction.
> 
> The rotary switch puts the PCB at a height where 16mm pot pins just barely make it.   It's absolutely doable, but a little tricky to assemble.
> 
> Washers under each pot (inside the enclosure) can lift them up enough that this is not an issue at all, but in the end I decided it'd just be easier to include a breakout board.
> 
> 
> I've also updated the rotary switch footprint to work with the solder lug rotary switches available from Tayda Electronics, since the PCB pin mount versions can be harder to find.     No lead clipping required!
> 
> If you received one of the first revision PCBs and would like the updated board just shoot me a message.
> 
> View attachment 30385


I would love to receive the newer revision, if it's not too late!


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## Robert

Nickpick67 said:


> I would love to receive the newer revision, if it's not too late!



Yours should be the new revision.


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## Nickpick67

okay.  Thanks!


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## Morbidpale

Is the schematic going to be available soon? Mine isn't working right yet and it will help me troubleshoot.


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## fontoponto

Bump * Is there a rough date for the Build documentation?


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