# 3n9 capacitor



## Phil hodson (Dec 20, 2021)

Hi All

I’m just building a Kliche at the moment and noticed that I missed the 3n9 film capacitor from my last component order. 
Am I right in guessing this is a 3.9nF film capacitor or a 0.0039uF? 
Secondly if this is the one I need I don’t actually have any so would a 0.0033uF be close enough!? 

Cheers in advance

Phil


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## BuddytheReow (Dec 20, 2021)

1. 3.9n = 0.0039uF. The decimal moves 3 places when you go up or down the scale.

2. A 3.3n will affect your treble control slightly. In the interim you can socket the component and try it out until the 3.9n arrives. The circuit will still work with what you have.


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## benny_profane (Dec 20, 2021)

Do you have any other caps in the 3n9–8n2 range? I'd suggest increasing that cap size rather than making it smaller. A common mod is to increase that cap to either 6n8 or 8n2 to make the treble less thin.


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## Phil hodson (Dec 20, 2021)

Thanks guys. I think i will socket it so o can continue with the build. 
I have 0.0033, 0.0047, 0.0068. So will play around with them until I can get some 0.0039. 

Phil


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## spi (Dec 20, 2021)

benny_profane said:


> A common mod is to increase that cap to either 6n8 or 8n2 to make the treble less thin.


+1.   I used a 6n8 on mine.  

Quoting Aion build doc on this matter:
"Tone capacitor mod: A very common and well-regarded modification is to change C14 to either 6n8 or 8n2. It fixes a complaint of Centaur clones that the treble is a little thin, and nearly everyone who’s done it says it’s a huge improvement". 
Note that the Aion C14 refers to the 3n9 cap.


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## Phil hodson (Dec 20, 2021)

That’s interesting. Definitely worth a socket then to try them out. Thanks for the info.


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## jesuscrisp (Dec 21, 2021)

That's interesting, if anything I feel like the Klon usually sounds rather too warm than too thin. 

Best idea would be socketing.


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## Phil hodson (Dec 21, 2021)

Sockets added last night. Will hopefully finish it today and see what it sounds like.


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## Mike52 (Dec 21, 2021)

Your capacitor is discussed in a bit more depth here:





						ElectroSmash - Klon Centaur Analysis
					

Klon Centaur Guitar Pedal Analysis, Input Stage, Op-Amp Gain Stage, Summing Stage, Tone control, Output Stage and Power Supply.




					www.electrosmash.com
				




Just Control+F the phrase "C14"
There's even a handy equation that you could do to determine what your cap is doing to the signal it passes. You know, if you're into that sorta thing.. I suppose with that equation you could socket R21 as well and adjust until you get the same frequency output with the parts you have onhand. How cool is that?


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## Phil hodson (Dec 21, 2021)

Thanks Mike. Much appreciated. I will have a look at that as I’m testing. 
I never knew that missing a capacitor off my order could be such a thing! Seems like it was an important one so I’m glad I’m learning a lot from it. 
I have to say what you said certainly sounds cool. Once I learn more I’m sure it will actually be cool for me 🤣
Thanks to everyone for the continuing huge learning curve!!


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## Mike52 (Dec 21, 2021)

Yeah, when I built mine I didn't have a 390p ceramic cap for the Op-amp gain stage frequency response at C8. I think I used a 800p cap from a Radio Shack grab bag without giving it much thought. I've built a second one with the right value and don't really notice much difference. The Centaur is sorta notorious for using unusual value caps and resistors, IMO.

Hate to say it, and maybe I'll deny it later, but the diodes matter in this pedal. Finnegan's 1n34a's that were blessed by a Hindu monk at the foot of Mt. Everest aren't critical, but whatever you put in there will influence the character of the distortion when its cranked. There are lots of good ones to chose from, including Bat41s, so be sure to socket those connections on the PCB. I think you are just aiming for ballpark .35 Fv. Otherwise, with the distortion down, I think the 18 volts and the feed forward networks are really the thing that makes that pedal special.


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## Phil hodson (Dec 21, 2021)

It is funny how changing somethings so dramatically doesn’t change anything but in some parts it changes a lot. 
I have socketed all the diodes so am prepared to play a little. 
As it stands I have the parts from the list in there. 1N34A, 1N4742 and 1N4001 to start with. I don’t think (very much doubt!) that these were blessed at Mount Everest or any other mountain or even a hill but a good place to start. I have some Bat41i could try but am about to test these and see what the Fv is and go from there. 
Hopefully I can make this one somewhere close to being special. Fingers crossed.


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## jeffwhitfield (Dec 22, 2021)

6n8 in my builds as well. I also use D9E diodes. Combination of this and the 6n8 cal help soften things up a tad bit.


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## Phil hodson (Dec 22, 2021)

I have some D9E I can try too. Sounds like I’m actually going to have to play my guitar more (finally!) and see how to get the best out of this thing. 🤣


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## HamishR (Dec 22, 2021)

Phil hodson said:


> I have some D9E I can try too. Sounds like I’m actually going to have to play my guitar more (finally!) and see how to get the best out of this thing. 🤣


I did that just the other day! I played my guitar. It's really hard, isn't it?


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## HamishR (Dec 23, 2021)

Oddly enough I just finished a Klone Mini. I used the 6n8 cap on the recommendation of the wise folks here and like it. Actually I've built a few Klones and this is possibly my favourite so far.  I had some weird Russian backwards Ge diodes to use - they worked out well - but I think the key  might be to accidentally order 10K1 resistors instead of 10K. I had to use 10K1s in my build and I'm convinced they were the difference. That extra 100ohms - wow.

Next I might try using an elastic band to hold the lid on.


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