# Jump Drive (LPD Sixty8) - Revisited



## MichaelW (Oct 18, 2022)

This is one of those few pedals that I've built that has not lived up my expectations.
I've generally liked all the LPD pedal line up that I've heard and this one is supposed to represent his favorite 68 Plexi.

I really wasn't expecting it to sound EXACTLY like a Plexi, but I dunno, it's not anything like one, nor his description on the website

_*"I wanted something that sounded and felt like my favorite 1968 Plexi. Completely natural note decay, no strange fizzy artifacts. It’s very dynamic, and responds to the guitar volume control and pick dynamics very well. Highly versatile with super-low noise and killer sustain, without needing a ton of distortion or fuzz to get it. "*_

That blurb is what got me excited about building this when it dropped. Then I kinda forgot about it, and when I looked at the board in my pile of PCB's somehow I conflated it with a BSIAB that I'm also working on. (I've been doing a lot of conflating lately it seems....)
It wasn't until @szukalski's build report that I remembered it wasn't an "Eddie-in-a-box" pedal I got excited about it again. I drilled and painted an enclosure and have been waiting for it to try for about a week now (more one that later).

It's not a bad sounding pedal but it's also not knocking my socks off either. I put it side by side with all the MIAB pedals I've built so far....
_Golden Falk_
_XS Drive __ 
King Midas_

To me the Golden Falk still rules, it's the most amp-like and most flexible in terms of available tones. You can get from plexi-ish to JCM800-ish between playing the the two gains and the toggle. 

The Jump drive by comparison sounds like a YATS. It's got a pronounced mid hump and is somewhat muffled. The overdrive itself is pretty smooth but a bit of a one trick pony and it's a bit hard to find that pony. Definitely has that nasally pedal sound as opposed to the bigger more open sounding Falk.

The XS drive has that same "pedal-ish" quality but it's got a lot more tones available and flexibility to it. I can get an early "Custard Pie" or a later JCM sound out of the XS with all it's toggles. 

Tomorrow's agenda is to try some different guitars and amp models with it to see if I can crack the code

So, the enclosure, I really like this "Hammered Black" Krylon color but I think I need to try some different brands or series from Krylon. This thing just won't cure.
It's been sitting for a week drying and I still got fingerprints all over it from how soft the finish is. That's two pedals I've painted with this paint with the same result.
I really tried to go slow, put down a coat of primer then hit it with multiple very thin coats of color over a couple of days. It LOOKED nice before I started handling it.

I love the idea of being able to do rattle cans and have access to more colors than Tayda's powdercoat but at $10 a can, it's getting to be a bit of a discouraging endeavour trying different colors. 

No substitutions on this build. I built off the PCB as there's no BOM or schematic I could find. I used a pair of Russian G223 Ge Diodes that measured ~350-ish on my GM328 tester (which I've found out tests diodes at 10ma). 

The toggle switch, as far as I can tell from the board traces do not control the diodes, seems like those are always on. But rather I "think" it toggles the second BJT transistor. So it's either running a single 2N7000 or both depending on the toggle position. 

Used my @swelchy printed pot covers 

Looking at the pictures it looks like I didn't do a great job cleaning the board off after cleaning the flux off. I've been using the MG Chemicals Flux remover then rinsing with a little QD contact cleaner. I think I wiped the back of the board off after that with a cotton cloth but left some "Schmook" on the front.....hahah.

Built itself went super smooth and a typically thoughtfully laid out @Robert board. Next up in my MIAB series is a long waiting BSIAB2 that's been on the back burner for over a month now....


----------



## Feral Feline (Oct 19, 2022)

I've been wondering whether to get the Jump Drive or not. 

Your build makes me think not, but Szukalski's build makes me think yes.


Maybe try it with another guitar and a different amp some day down the road...


----------



## szukalski (Oct 19, 2022)

Demos or it didn't happen... 

Interesting how yours turned out. The only difference I can see are the diodes, I wasn't happy with the D9's I tested with (~0.28-0.34) as they sounded too muffled in comparison to 1N4148 (which I found a bit too fizzy). With the BA282s in there, it was fire. 1N4148 with a slight tweak of the tone knob could be pretty close to the BA282 though.

If anything, I find mine hi-fi. I run a Chop Shop in front of it with a bunch of sag to blur the edges a bit. Not to muffle it, but just round it out for personal preference.

Only other thing I can think of is the amp, the JTM45 makes a stinker shine, but I also ran the Jump through my TWE-style head and it was the same.

I know it can't be your wiring, that shizz is great. I like the solid core on the DC jack. I've been thinking about my use of solid core for a while now, I use it for the footswitch to PCB because it's easy for the workflow. I was thinking that it would become a stress point if the footswitch nut came loose, stranded core would just flex but solid could break. It's these damn fine board layouts that get me thinking all utility-like..


----------



## MichaelW (Oct 19, 2022)

szukalski said:


> Demos or it didn't happen...
> 
> Interesting how yours turned out. The only difference I can see are the diodes, I wasn't happy with the D9's I tested with (~0.28-0.34) as they sounded too muffled in comparison to 1N4148 (which I found a bit too fizzy). With the BA282s in there, it was fire. 1N4148 with a slight tweak of the tone knob could be pretty close to the BA282 though.
> 
> ...


Hmmm.....I have some 282's. But I'd have to sacrifice that pair of Ge diodes since I soldered. I didn't think the diodes would make such a huge difference. I'm gonna play it some more today. Maybe I had indigestion when I was testing it....it's all very subjective sometimes I find hahaha.


----------



## music6000 (Oct 19, 2022)

MichaelW said:


> Hmmm.....I have some 282's. But I'd have to sacrifice that pair of Ge diodes since I soldered. I didn't think the diodes would make such a huge difference. I'm gonna play it some more today. Maybe I had indigestion when I was testing it....it's all very subjective sometimes I find hahaha.


This is the first LPD 68 Drive with pushbutton or Toggle from 6 or more years ago , the current LPD 68 that is on the website with the _*I wanted something that sounded and felt like my favorite 1968 Plexi. Completely natural note decay, no strange fizzy artifacts. It’s very dynamic, and responds to the guitar volume control and pick dynamics very well. Highly versatile with super-low noise and killer sustain, without needing a ton of distortion or fuzz to get it*_
...  maybe a different Pedal.


----------



## MichaelW (Oct 19, 2022)

music6000 said:


> This is the first LPD 68 Drive with pushbutton or Toggle from 6 or more years ago , the current LPD 68 that is on the website with the _*I wanted something that sounded and felt like my favorite 1968 Plexi. Completely natural note decay, no strange fizzy artifacts. It’s very dynamic, and responds to the guitar volume control and pick dynamics very well. Highly versatile with super-low noise and killer sustain, without needing a ton of distortion or fuzz to get it*_
> ...  maybe a different Pedal.


Hmmm interesting. There is NO WAY I am getting those low gain sounds like in Mike Herman's demo. I'll have to try it with a Strat today and see if I can replicate some of those sounds.


----------



## MichaelW (Oct 19, 2022)

Also that second demo with the Nash Sonic Blue Strat, those are lovely transparent tones. I'm not getting that.


----------



## music6000 (Oct 19, 2022)

MichaelW said:


> Also that second demo with the Nash Sonic Blue Strat, those are lovely transparent tones. I'm not getting that.


They look like Pedalhacker 1N34A suppose to be the same diodes????

Does it sound like this:


----------



## MichaelW (Oct 19, 2022)

music6000 said:


> They look like Pedalhacker 1N34A suppose to be the same diodes????
> 
> Does it sound like this:


See that's why I built it. That lovely harmonic content. Ok, I'm barely awake yet but I'm gonna fire up my rig and play it some more.......


----------



## MichaelW (Oct 19, 2022)

Ok, just tried it with my LP Special w/Lollars, Eastman w/Lollars, PRS 594 w/58/15 LT's, my Strat w/Lollars.
It just ain't happening. The breakup is not smooth like the videos but a bit harsh and fizzy.
Those sounds Phil McKnight is getting are sublime, I am not hearing any of that in my build.

Sigh, I guess I'm taking it apart today and socketing the diodes....
Maybe the BJT's too? I dunno if it would make a difference, I didn't check the gains on the 2n7000's I used.


----------



## MichaelW (Oct 19, 2022)

music6000 said:


> They look like Pedalhacker 1N34A suppose to be the same diodes????
> 
> Does it sound like this:


I did buy them from PH a while ago. He was selling them as G223's. They've done really well for me in other pedals as a 1N34A sub.


----------



## MichaelW (Oct 19, 2022)

szukalski said:


> Demos or it didn't happen...
> 
> Interesting how yours turned out. The only difference I can see are the diodes, I wasn't happy with the D9's I tested with (~0.28-0.34) as they sounded too muffled in comparison to 1N4148 (which I found a bit too fizzy). With the BA282s in there, it was fire. 1N4148 with a slight tweak of the tone knob could be pretty close to the BA282 though.
> 
> ...


The downside to using buss wire for the DC jacks is there's no way I can take the board out w/o unsoldering.
But the DC in was so close to the jack it didn't make sense to run wires.


----------



## szukalski (Oct 19, 2022)

MichaelW said:


> Hmmm interesting. There is NO WAY I am getting those low gain sounds like in Mike Herman's demo. I'll have to try it with a Strat today and see if I can replicate some of those sounds.


I am getting those tones, albeit with the colouration of my amp. I can hear the amp from the Herman and McKnight demos, the old YT challenge, but I can hear the pedal is pretty close to mine.

My 2N7000 were from Tayda if that makes any difference.

The main difference I noticed was the diodes. I did socket mine because I was too lazy to breadboard it first, and there were large enough differences in the ones I tested to say that it mattered.

Harsh and fizzy is what I was getting with 1N4148 (maybe I am too hard on them, but I do remember them being harsher to my ears).

If you can't get it going, I'll ship you mine in exchange for a replacement PCB


----------



## MichaelW (Oct 19, 2022)

szukalski said:


> I am getting those tones, albeit with the colouration of my amp. I can hear the amp from the Herman and McKnight demos, the old YT challenge, but I can hear the pedal is pretty close to mine.
> 
> My 2N7000 were from Tayda if that makes any difference.
> 
> ...


Well I just tried it with a different amp model. I'd been using a Friedman Buxom Betty clean model but that's a bit of a bottom heavy EL34 type amp. I switched to a 6L6 blackface type and it seemed to open up the pedal a bit more. I'll mess with the diodes later today.


----------



## MichaelW (Oct 19, 2022)

Ok, I got the Ge's out intact. Gotta love the Engineers Solder Sucker, that thing is worth it's weight in gold!

So, here's what I've tried:

*BA282* - Vf ~.92 - Better but lost a lot of compression and saturation

*1N34A* - I have some 34A's that measure super high, like all in the mid-900's. I've never found a use for them. I tried them in this pedal and it sounded better than the original low Vf Ge's I had in there.  But one of the really odd things about these diodes (aside from the high Vf) is that they always introduce noise. Super noisy Ge diodes, distractingly noisy. I should just pitch those.

*BAT41 *- Vf ~.635. You'd think these would be fizzy and splatty, but they actually sound the best of all of the ones I've tried. These are the Vishay ones. They're staying in and I think I'm calling this pedal done. It still does not sound like the demo's. I WISH it sounded like Phil McKnight's demo but it doesn't. So either I borked something, or it's my paint job, or it's the phase of the moon, or something. 

Again, not a BAD sounding pedal, but my build is not as nuanced and sublime as the demo video's sound.


----------



## harmaes (Oct 19, 2022)

Hey Mike, I noticed a difference in the 4558D you used and the 4558P used by szukalski but I wouldn’t expect it to make a huge difference. It’s unclear which diodes were in the original so it’s trial and error. I will build this one when I receive the PCB, probably next week. I might try some OA1182 as they‘re one of my favs in my Klon. 
To me this one sounds more open than the Falk. In other demos I hear a lot about the feel of the pedal being better than a box of rock for instance. 
Curious how it compares to the Falk. Somehow the Falk sounds better into an IR pedal where it reacts more as a Plexi amp than into a Fender like amp (Dream65) where it quickly becomes bright.


----------



## MichaelW (Oct 19, 2022)

harmaes said:


> Hey Mike, I noticed a difference in the 4558D you used and the 4558P used by szukalski but I wouldn’t expect it to make a huge difference. It’s unclear which diodes were in the original so it’s trial and error. I will build this one when I receive the PCB, probably next week. I might try some OA1182 as they‘re one of my favs in my Klon.
> To me this one sounds more open than the Falk. In other demos I hear a lot about the feel of the pedal being better than a box of rock for instance.
> Curious how it compares to the Falk. Somehow the Falk sounds better into an IR pedal where it reacts more as a Plexi amp than into a Fender like amp (Dream65) where it quickly becomes bright.


I'd be very interested in how yours turns out. In the demo videos it DOES sound more "open" than the Falk but in my rig it's the exact opposite.

I even auditioned it outside my chain, just guitar->pedal-> interface. Sounds.....well, like a Tube Screamer If yours turns out as good as David's then I may buy a second board and try it again. I'm not seeing any resistor value or cap value errors in mine though. I did validate resistors before stuffing them but I did NOT validate the caps.....got lazy. Maybe I have a bum cap that's way out of spec, who knows....


----------



## Feral Feline (Oct 19, 2022)

Don't throw away the super-noisey Ge diodes, keep them as a reference comparison for future builds. Hell, you might even find a build you can use them in, like a faux-AM-radio thing that you can use in intros/outros/breakdowns etc. 

If you must pitch them, throw them my way — I may have just the circuit for them...




I'm just a pack-rat, though, never know when something will prove useful — like Cybercow's coffee stir "sticks", making great LED-leg insulators on builds...

A minute after I throw something away that I've kept for forever already, is _the_ minute that I find a need for that thing.


----------



## MichaelW (Oct 20, 2022)

Feral Feline said:


> Don't throw away the super-noisey Ge diodes, keep them as a reference comparison for future builds. Hell, you might even find a build you can use them in, like a faux-AM-radio thing that you can use in intros/outros/breakdowns etc.
> 
> If you must pitch them, throw them my way — I may have just the circuit for them...
> 
> ...


I was just kidding, I'm a pack rat too. I find stuff in my garage from like 30 years ago all the time.....I can't even throw away those little cheap Allen wrenches that come with cheap pressboard furniture that let's you assemble them....I have a bucket full of them....because "you never know....."


----------



## Feral Feline (Oct 20, 2022)

I've got the perfect circuit to add those noisy diodes to...


Escobedo's LofoMofo.


----------



## spi (Oct 20, 2022)

MichaelW said:


> I was just kidding, I'm a pack rat too. I find stuff in my garage from like 30 years ago all the time.....I can't even throw away those little cheap Allen wrenches that come with cheap pressboard furniture that let's you assemble them....I have a bucket full of them....because "you never know....."


I find stuff in my garage I saved because I thought it would be useful later.  20 years later I don't even know what they're for.  I can't throw them away now though, because I thought they were important enough to keep for 20 years.


----------



## harmaes (Oct 28, 2022)

MichaelW said:


> I'd be very interested in how yours turns out. In the demo videos it DOES sound more "open" than the Falk but in my rig it's the exact opposite.
> 
> I even auditioned it outside my chain, just guitar->pedal-> interface. Sounds.....well, like a Tube Screamer If yours turns out as good as David's then I may buy a second board and try it again. I'm not seeing any resistor value or cap value errors in mine though. I did validate resistors before stuffing them but I did NOT validate the caps.....got lazy. Maybe I have a bum cap that's way out of spec, who knows....


I just populated the Jump Drive PCB and had to use some combinations of caps and resistors to build it, but these were close to the values mentioned.
I used RC4558P opamps and OA1182 germanium diodes with a Uf around 359mV. To me this pedal behaves to what I’m hearing in the demos, there’s a singing quality with some pushed sustain to it with a mid focus and somewhat reduced lows. In demos comparing it to the Box of rock I‘ve heard about the feel of this pedal and to me it indeed has a nice feel/touch to play.
Not sure what went wrong with yours but I’m going to box it for sure.


----------



## Alan W (Oct 28, 2022)

Michael—do you know if the primer you used was compatible with the paint? When paint doesnt dry (and if it’s still tacky after a week, that’s a problem…) that’s almost always the cause. Even if both were Krylon; the larger companies make several lines of paint and primers, and a lot of times they are not compatible with each other, the usual symptom being multi week tackiness. Seriously, if after two weeks it’s still not cured, clean it off to bare metal and start over.


----------



## MichaelW (Oct 29, 2022)

Alan W said:


> Michael—do you know if the primer you used was compatible with the paint? When paint doesnt dry (and if it’s still tacky after a week, that’s a problem…) that’s almost always the cause. Even if both were Krylon; the larger companies make several lines of paint and primers, and a lot of times they are not compatible with each other, the usual symptom being multi week tackiness. Seriously, if after two weeks it’s still not cured, clean it off to bare metal and start over.


Yah, I've given that some thought. I think it's actually a Krylon primer (and I'm almost at the end of it). It seems to work well with all the other paints I've tried. But I think I will start trying to get everything the same brand going forward.

I'm getting the hang of painting enclosures and rather enjoy it now. I've also been working out a system of "plugging" old unused or mistakes, re-sanding and painting them. (Have an orbital sander helps a lot! heh......


----------



## Alan W (Oct 29, 2022)

MichaelW said:


> Yah, I've given that some thought. I think it's actually a Krylon primer (and I'm almost at the end of it). It seems to work well with all the other paints I've tried. But I think I will start trying to get everything the same brand going forward.
> 
> I'm getting the hang of painting enclosures and rather enjoy it now. I've also been working out a system of "plugging" old unused or mistakes, re-sanding and painting them. (Have an orbital sander helps a lot! heh......


Even though it’s a Krylon primer, it may not be from the same series as the color coat; I had all sorts of issues with students’ projects that had similar issues. Sometimes the paint would look good while wet and then begin to take on a cottage cheese appearance as it dried, sometimes it just didn’t dry, sometimes it crazed… In my spray booth we also had set primers for certain lacquers.

For plugging holes, bondo is the tried and true, and probably the easiest material to use. I’d recommend a small can of higher quality bondo; if you keep the can closed, and are careful with not contaminating it with hardener, it will last for years. This is my favorite. Needs ventilation, do not breathe the polyester!


----------



## music6000 (Oct 29, 2022)

JB Weld is one of the strongest epoxy's available, Truckers use it when their centre diff housings start getting rust holes in the top from exposure to years of dirt and moisture.
Check out a youtuber called '' Project Farm '', He tests nearly every known product available to man!


----------



## MichaelW (Oct 29, 2022)

Alan W said:


> Even though it’s a Krylon primer, it may not be from the same series as the color coat; I had all sorts of issues with students’ projects that had similar issues. Sometimes the paint would look good while wet and then begin to take on a cottage cheese appearance as it dried, sometimes it just didn’t dry, sometimes it crazed… In my spray booth we also had set primers for certain lacquers.
> 
> For plugging holes, bondo is the tried and true, and probably the easiest material to use. I’d recommend a small can of higher quality bondo; if you keep the can closed, and are careful with not contaminating it with hardener, it will last for years. This is my favorite. Needs ventilation, do not breathe the polyester!View attachment 34725


Just got back from Home Depot with some new colors woohoo! 

The problem with bondo is that it's mainly cosmetic. I need something that's drillable without crumbling. Can't beat JB Weld "Steel" or MarineTex for that. I'm working a way to do it that's less messy. I'm doing one today and will document my current process.


----------



## Alan W (Oct 29, 2022)

MichaelW said:


> Just got back from Home Depot with some new colors woohoo!
> 
> The problem with bondo is that it's mainly cosmetic. I need something that's drillable without crumbling. Can't beat JB Weld "Steel" or MarineTex for that. I'm working a way to do it that's less messy. I'm doing one today and will document my current process.


I hear you, and when @music6000 suggested JBWeld, I think that makes sense. I still tend to think like a machinist, and with sharp tooling, a fine grained bondo like the Evercoat is fine. (This would be for holes under maybe 3/4 inch.) Putty, cure, sand flush and rebore, all in an hour. But JB is amazing. Pro tip—put some masking tape inside the box before you smear the JB on.


----------



## jimilee (Oct 29, 2022)

MichaelW said:


> Just got back from Home Depot with some new colors woohoo!
> 
> The problem with bondo is that it's mainly cosmetic. I need something that's drillable without crumbling. Can't beat JB Weld "Steel" or MarineTex for that. I'm working a way to do it that's less messy. I'm doing one today and will document my current process.


This is what I use if I can’t find googly eyes to cover the hole.


----------



## MichaelW (Oct 29, 2022)

Alan W said:


> I hear you, and when @music6000 suggested JBWeld, I think that makes sense. I still tend to think like a machinist, and with sharp tooling, a fine grained bondo like the Evercoat is fine. (This would be for holes under maybe 3/4 inch.) Putty, cure, sand flush and rebore, all in an hour. But JB is amazing. Pro tip—put some masking tape inside the box before you smear the JB on.


That's exactly what I did, I'll post a PSA/tutorial of my process, just painted one of my efforts today for the Tellurian drive. (Sarno Earth Drive). I'm hoping it's cured enough to handle by tomorrow afternoon.


----------



## MichaelW (Oct 29, 2022)

Speaking of the Jump Drive, @music6000 turned me onto some ITT Ge diodes that are supposed to be the chiznits.

I've currently got Bat41's in it for clippers but I think I'm going to pull it apart and redo the enclosure finish with one of the new paints I got. Still not happy with the tackiness of the finish. While I'm at it also do a little Ge diode tasting, I've got a bunch coming from the recent SmallBear sale...including some glass radial ones......


----------



## MichaelW (Nov 1, 2022)

*Update: *

After chatting a bit with @harmaes offline about the Ge diodes he used in his build and with the new Ge's that @music6000 recently turned me onto, I decided to revisit the Jump Drive.

In my OP, you can tell I was a little underwhelmed by the pedal. So couple of things I probably should stop doing.....

1) Read marketing ad copy.....and buying into the superlatives heh. The LPD website mentioned that this pedal was inspired by a 68 Plexi so I was expecting a "Marshall-in-a-box" that sounds like a 68 plexi, which I still don't think this sounds anything like.

2) Because of #1 above, when I first fired it up after testing voltages at my bench, I pulled out all my MIAB builds and started immediately comparing them, instead of just spending some time with the pedal on its own before diving into that.

So lessons learned. I ordered an array of Ge Diodes during the SmallBear sale, as mentioned in my Tellurian build report Ge diode taste testing.

Smallbear is usually not the quickest shipping for me, I was expecting at least a week to two before getting the order (I got them in 48 hours...)
so I decided to take my Jump Drive build apart and repaint the enclosure. In my OP I also mentioned that I used a "hammered finish" paint that doesn't like to dry for some reason. It stays soft, a bit tacky and easy to scuff. So I decided to sand it all back off down to bare metal and start over while waiting for the diodes.

I painted this enclosure over 3 weeks ago, when I went to sand off the finish it was STILL soft and gooey. So it still hadn't completely cured.
I guess I'm not using that color paint anymore. I put a new coat of primer and used probably my favorite of the new batch of colors I got.
It's called "Burnished Amber". I love the color but more than that, I love that it dries completely in a couple of hours and leaves no fingerprints and seems pretty durable.

Here's the re-painted enclosure:





Ok, so for the Ge diode testing it was pretty much the same protocol as with the Tellurian. I started out with the ITT Red Band Ge Diodes. Actually the same set that I first tested in my Tellurian. They measured in the mid 300's in my tester. They sounded great! They sounded better than the Russian G223's I had initially tried in the pedal before swapping them out for first BA282's then settling on BAT41's.

I know I've been raving a bit about these ITT diodes but they really do sound better (to me) than any of the NOS Russian variety I've been using up to this point.

*BUT.....*like the Tellurian, they did not stay in the pedal. I tested a few other diodes and once again it was the Phillips/Mullard OA9's that sounded the best. Just something about these Mullard diodes, the OA9 and the CV7364's that sound sooooo good. I mentioned this in my Tellurian build but there's like a flute-like hollowness to them that I've never heard in a clipping diode before. Kinda like the difference between a Humbucker and a P90. Just a super cool sound. It's a little scary how much I'm liking these diodes. I looked around and they don't seem to be very commonly available. Smallbear is the only place I've seen them so far. And at $1.45/ea it's a steal. I've paid that much for crappy 1n34A's from a certain diode vender who shall remain un-named...(hack hack hack).

Anyway, I'm really enjoying this pedal a lot more now, still dialing some sounds and trying some different guitars. Right now I'm playing my PRS Vela through it and the big fat single coil has a beautiful vocal quality with the gain pushed around to 2 o-clock.
After a couple weeks, some fresh ears, and coming to it and treating it as a very nice overdrive pedal, which it is! makes all the difference

If you'd have asked me a couple weeks ago if I thought that the brand of the Ge diodes would that much difference I would have emphatically said "no, it's all about the forward voltage.....". Well, I'm wrong. Which kinda opens up a whole can of worms for me now...trying not to fall down the "mojo Ge diode rabbit hole".....hahahaha.

Edit: The new diodes, I need to figure out a better way to place them.....


----------

