# Ungula Build



## D1chotomy (May 28, 2020)

I am really pleased with the way this one came out. It's my 4th PedalPCB build and definitely feel like it's my best. I took my time, measured and re-measured and luckily it all came together and fired up on the first try. Now, some of my internal component placement and wiring still leaves a lot to be desired, but I'm getting there. I love this pedal. It was just what I was looking for in a fuzz! Not sure what do to about labeling the POTS though. Anyone have any suggestions that would keep it clean looking?


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## phi1 (May 28, 2020)

I like that you socketed the top transistors (for experimenting I assume). But I recommend soldering them for the long term, otherwise they’re likely to fall out at some point. (ICs don’t really have a problem though since they fit tighter in the socket).


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## zgrav (May 28, 2020)

in case that was not clear -- you can solder the transistors into the sockets.  and usually do it lightly, or only solder the middle leg if you want to leave open the idea of switching transistors later.


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## D1chotomy (May 28, 2020)

zgrav said:


> in case that was not clear -- you can solder the transistors into the sockets.  and usually do it lightly, or only solder the middle leg if you want to leave open the idea of switching transistors later.


 Actually It wasn't clear to my pea brain at first. Totally get it now. Thanks to both of you.


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## Barry (May 28, 2020)

Looks good, you could use a paint pen and carefully label them


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## Chuck D. Bones (May 29, 2020)

D1chotomy said:


> Not sure what do to about labeling the POTS though. Anyone have any suggestions that would keep it clean looking?



Take a look at the other pedals in Build Reports.  There are quite a few different methods employed.  Some simple, some a little more involved.

Which transistors did you put in the sockets?


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## D1chotomy (May 29, 2020)

Chuck D. Bones said:


> Take a look at the other pedals in Build Reports.  There are quite a few different methods employed.  Some simple, some a little more involved.
> 
> Which transistors did you put in the sockets?



Hey there, thanks for replying. I think on this one, because it has such a clean look, I may try to use a clear tape label maker and just pray I get them on straight. I could always paint them on, too.

The socketed transistors are MPAS13's and then the other two are 2N3904. So... partial Cleft Mod? I guess not as I used all 4 LED's.  I used what I had, but I think it sounds killer.


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## gri (May 29, 2020)

D1chotomy said:


> Hey there, thanks for replying. I think on this one, because it has such a clean look, I may try to use a clear tape label maker and just pray I get them on straight. I could always paint them on, too.
> 
> The socketed transistors are MPAS13's and then the other two are 2N3904. So... partial Cleft Mod? I guess not as I used all 4 LED's.  I used what I had, but I think it sounds killer.




I did the same. just trouble shootin mine,.  MPAS13 and 2N3904.  but i omit the 470P cap as per cleft mod and went 2 RED led / 2 cleft Diode. and im having a hum issue. checked all my grounds. and its super sputtering like starving for juice. the led barely light up if at all. should i try your combo perhaps. i assumed the combo of transistors would work..  any advice appreciated


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## D1chotomy (May 29, 2020)

gri said:


> I did the same. just trouble shootin mine,.  MPAS13 and 2N3904.  but i omit the 470P cap as per cleft mod and went 2 RED led / 2 cleft Diode. and im having a hum issue. checked all my grounds. and its super sputtering like starving for juice. the led barely light up if at all. should i try your combo perhaps. i assumed the combo of transistors would work..  any advice appreciated



Worth a shot, I suppose. Mine is quiet actually. No hum or unwanted noise at all. So, maybe I just got lucky. I did not omit the 470P, used 4 red LED's and then the transistor combo you mentioned. I really, really love this pedal. I hope it works out for you.


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## gri (May 29, 2020)

D1chotomy said:


> Worth a shot, I suppose. Mine is quiet actually. No hum or unwanted noise at all. So, maybe I just got lucky. I did not omit the 470P, used 4 red LED's and then the transistor combo you mentioned. I really, really love this pedal. I hope it works out for you.


 
well if it works for you i may try your combo then. someone told me the MPS are crazy high gain and i might be pushing to much. but it sounds starved like no sustain wants to die. dead battery velcro sound.


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## Chuck D. Bones (May 30, 2020)

gri said:


> I did the same. just trouble shootin mine,.  MPAS13 and 2N3904.  but i omit the 470P cap as per cleft mod and went 2 RED led / 2 cleft Diode. and im having a hum issue. checked all my grounds. and its super sputtering like starving for juice. the led barely light up if at all. should i try your combo perhaps. i assumed the combo of transistors would work..  any advice appreciated



The LEDs are not supposed to light up, the current in them is very low.

If you need help troubleshooting, see you in the Troubleshooting forum.


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## gri (May 30, 2020)

Chuck D. Bones said:


> The LEDs are not supposed to light up, the current in them is very low.
> 
> If you need help troubleshooting, see you in the Troubleshooting forum.



thanks. im fairly new this is my 3rd build previous included rats so LED for clipping lit up bright. assumed was similar case. with diodes removed still makes no difference in starved sputtery quiet sound. so assuming it lies elsewhere


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## Chuck D. Bones (May 30, 2020)

When these are built right, they work right.  You can just keep swapping parts hoping that something good will happen, or you can make sure you built it right.  VISUAL INSPECTION is a much better way to troubleshoot than blindly changing parts.  Verify all parts match the BOM.  Check orientation of diodes, transistors, electrolytic caps.  Check your solder joints.  Visit the Troubleshooting forum and read how other people fixed their pedals.


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## gri (May 30, 2020)

D1chotomy said:


> Hey there, thanks for replying. I think on this one, because it has such a clean look, I may try to use a clear tape label maker and just pray I get them on straight. I could always paint them on, too.
> 
> The socketed transistors are MPAS13's and then the other two are 2N3904. So... partial Cleft Mod? I guess not as I used all 4 LED's.  I used what I had, but I think it sounds killer.



looking at your transistors. the MPSA13 you have them orientated the same way as the 2 bellow? flat side bottom. of the pcb? this could be my problem. i think i have emiter and collector reversed.


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## Chuck D. Bones (May 30, 2020)

Definitely.  The MPSA13's are in backwards.


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## Bobbyd67 (May 31, 2020)

Chuck D. Bones said:


> When these are built right, they work right.  You can just keep swapping parts hoping that something good will happen, or you can make sure you built it right.  VISUAL INSPECTION is a much better way to troubleshoot than blindly changing parts.  Verify all parts match the BOM.  Check orientation of diodes, transistors, electrolytic caps.  Check your solder joints.  Visit the Troubleshooting forum and read how other people fixed their pedals.



If all that and the troubleshooting forums don't help, you just gotta swear a buttload..., then let your brain obsesse on what could be the source of the problem to a point where even in a conversation with your significant other you just stop listening and start troubleshooting in your head... Then , when your finally out of ideas, you keep the board and forget about it ... A couple of weeks later your gonna have the great though of " hey... I am pretty sure I can figure it out".... Repeat all of the above from the swearing part, this usually happens 1 to 3 times... 4 if it's a circuit you really wanna have. Then after all of that ...you place it in your box o shame and try never to think about again xD...

But the troubleshooting forums usually work great ^^ if it's just your 3rd build let me welcome you to the hobby  it's a hole bucket of fun  just get that box of shame ready!


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## D1chotomy (May 31, 2020)

gri said:


> looking at your transistors. the MPSA13 you have them orientated the same way as the 2 bellow? flat side bottom. of the pcb? this could be my problem. i think i have emiter and collector reversed.



Your MPSA13's are in backwards. Flip em around and I bet it works.


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## gri (May 31, 2020)

D1chotomy said:


> Your MPSA13's are in backwards. Flip em around and I bet it works.


 flipped them around and IT DOOOOMS!! its alive!!  may play with the diodes. a bit. but sounds great!!


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## Chuck D. Bones (May 31, 2020)

You can always put the diodes on a switch.  Check out my Pyrocumulus mod.


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## D1chotomy (May 31, 2020)

gri said:


> flipped them around and IT DOOOOMS!! its alive!!  may play with the diodes. a bit. but sounds great!!



Great sounding pedal isn’t it?


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## gri (Jun 3, 2020)

D1chotomy said:


> Great sounding pedal isn’t it?


Heavy AF. Puts my NYC muff to shame. Find the bias knob doesnt do much though


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## D1chotomy (Jun 3, 2020)

gri said:


> Heavy AF. Puts my NYC muff to shame. Find the bias knob doesnt do much though



It is indeed heavy. Let me mess with mine tonight and see what my (edit because I think we're talking about the Shift control) bias knob is doing. I felt like it was definitely noticeable though. One thing I like about this pedal over other fuzz's like a Big Muff is that it just feels tighter, like you can actually dig in and palm mute a little bit and not have it sound all wooly and flubby, if that makes sense...

Now if I can just debug this Informant I just built. Whole 'nother story though.


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## Chuck D. Bones (Jun 3, 2020)

Right, there is no "bias" knob on the Ungula.  The SHIFT knob has a strong effect when TONE is above noon and no effect when TONE is at zero.


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## D1chotomy (Jun 3, 2020)

Chuck D. Bones said:


> Right, there is no "bias" knob on the Ungula.  The SHIFT knob has a strong effect when TONE is above noon and no effect when TONE is at zero.



Thanks for clarifying.


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## gri (Jun 5, 2020)

Ahhh ok. Ill test later. Didnt know if it was because of omitting diodes. I like tone rolled all the way back almost really doomy dark. So maybe why I didnt see much shift.




Chuck D. Bones said:


> Right, there is no "bias" knob on the Ungula.  The SHIFT knob has a strong effect when TONE is above noon and no effect when TONE is at zero.


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## Chuck D. Bones (Jun 5, 2020)

I found most of the range of the SHIFT knob useless.  Makes a HUGE mid scoop when turned clockwise.  I ended up increasing C10 to 22nF.  Now SHIFT sweeps from a mid hump to a mid scoop.


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## gri (Jun 6, 2020)

Chuck D. Bones said:


> I found most of the range of the SHIFT knob useless.  Makes a HUGE mid scoop when turned clockwise.  I ended up increasing C10 to 22nF.  Now SHIFT sweeps from a mid hump to a mid scoop.



im also curious if you know that the ommited cap adds to the ungula cleft mod? i have it in currently. added it when i was trouble shooting. now im kinda a half and half.


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## Chuck D. Bones (Jun 6, 2020)

You're talking about C6, that's the cap that's omitted in the Cleft version.  C2, C6 & C9 all do the same thing: they roll-off treble in the 1st, 2nd & 3rd stages, respectively.  Making those caps bigger darkens the sound; making them smaller brightens the sound.  How much of a difference it makes by leaving C6 out is anyone's guess.  I stopped trying to understand why EQD does the things they do.  If it sounds good the way it is, maybe it's time to put down the soldering iron, screw on the bottom cover and play guitar.


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