# Electrovibe



## Gordo

Figured I'd pre-start this one.  Board is pop'd, chassis is drilled and filed (square cut is about 10 minutes with a few drill holes and a bit of filing).  I lucked out on finding C-dual pots, and I'm using the toggle shown in the original post.  Just need to hit Hobby Lobby or a similar shop for white model paint.  Photos to follow.


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## Gordo

I'm still on the fence as to how to mount the photocells.  Most bulb-type builds mount them flush to the board (I believe my Voodoo Labs is done this way).  I should really mount them in sockets but I'm trying to go for the gusto and finalize.  I'm thinking that since the LEDs are on the other side of then enclosure that I really don't need a light shield.


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## Gordo

Plus I was lucky/greedy enough to snag two boards.  Sorry.  In the spirit of the Waza TB-2W I'll sell one of them for $700.00 though.

Geez I hate the current pedal/concert ticket/gear climate.


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## fig

I pre-like it!


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## JamieJ

I’m also excited to see this.



Gordo said:


> I'm still on the fence as to how to mount the photocells.  Most bulb-type builds mount them flush to the board (I believe my Voodoo Labs is done this way).  I should really mount them in sockets but I'm trying to go for the gusto and finalize.  I'm thinking that since the LEDs are on the other side of then enclosure that I really don't need a light shield.


 
I am about 50% done on my electrovibe build and I am having the same thoughts about the LDRs. In Mr PedalPCBs build there was no light shield. I was thinking about putting lots of electrical tape around the bypass and speed LEDs to ensure it’s dark so to avoid needing an LDR light sheild

Anyways - can’t wait to see this @Gordo !!

You also get bonus points for being the first electrovibe build report.


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## ADAOCE

Can’t wait to see these. I’m in the process of completing mine but I am trying to finish my quaverato


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## ADAOCE

What are you all thinking for enclosure and knobs? I will probably do cream powder coat and cream chickenheads.


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## Gordo

I'm bummed that I can't find grey crackle paint. Maybe it's not made anymore. Gotta find some small chicken heads though.


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## Feral Feline

You can probably get the crackle effect on your oddy-knocky... why you'd want your pedal to crackle when most people are starting troubleshooting threads to get rid of crackle... To each their own.


Shoot your base coat, let it cure.
Shoot your "crackle" coat (different colour/shade recommended) and while it's still wet, scrunch up some cellophane or tinfoil or similar and apply it to the still tacky paint.


OR...




			crackle paint effect with glue - Google Search
		




			crackle paint effect automotive - Google Search
		




			crackle paint effect on metal - Google Search


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## Robert

What about Rustoleum hammered gray?








AmplifiedParts has the mini chickenheads:





						Knob - Chicken Head, mini, high-quality, brass insert, Set Screw | Amplified Parts
					

High quality miniature chicken head knob with set screw for smaller applications. 0.90" long nose to tail. Mini Davies 2300 clone.




					www.amplifiedparts.com


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## Gordo

I did see the hammered and it's closer to the dark grey than the can of Cement textured finish I picked up but haven't tried yet.  I guess my original Vibe was more of a wrinkled finish than crackle and hammered would visually get close.  I need a few parts for other projects that I can snag at AmpParts so I guess I can justify the order.  Justify...who am I kidding...


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## Robert

Smallbear has them too, if that makes more sense.


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## Gordo

Here's what I have so far:


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## Gordo

And here's why I didn't get much stuff done:


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## Robert

Ahh so you did go with the NKK rocker.   Niiice.   

Reckon I better get those faceplates ordered, I suspect some folks are going to want that one after they see yours.


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## Gordo

I went to Hobby Lobby and picked up some paint.  Holy crap that stuff is expensive these days.  Car model kits are $30 and even the little bottles of Testors paint are $2 a pop.  How do kids get into this anymore?


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## Gordo

I went with a lighter hammertone and it's not even close to the original color it looks really nice.  I love this pedal enough that I don't care what color it is.  It sounds killer and has similar noise levels to my original.  Not a good thing, but in the spirit of being legit, this thing has it in spades.


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## Bricksnbeatles

Gordo said:


> I went to Hobby Lobby and picked up some paint.  Holy crap that stuff is expensive these days.  Car model kits are $30 and even the little bottles of Testors paint are $2 a pop.  How do kids get into this anymore?


They don’t. Back when I was a teenager (the 2010s) I was really interested in that kind of stuff, but even to get the basic primary colors it was uber-expensive, and they don’t even mix very well for getting other hues. At one point it was up to $4.50 for a 1/2oz testors bottle at most stores. Shit’s too expensive for kids these days 😪


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## Gordo

That's a drag.  Back when I was a kid (60's/70's) I spent a ton of time building models on a paperboy salary.


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## Gordo

Got the little beastie together and waiting for paint to dry completely.  My switch doesn't look as nice as the PedalPCB version (the painted part) but will touch it up tomorrow.

I'm noticing a slight volume drop at max volume (which, again, is true to the original).  Any thoughts on getting more signal out of this puppy?  Was hoping to hit unity at about 3/4 or so.


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## Gordo

I got all chicken-s**t at the end and put the LDR's at about bulb height and slightly angled in.  I really didn't want to socket them and there's a ton of usable range on the depth knob.  I have it at about 50% and it's what I'd consider normal so lots of room for uber wobble or really subtle.  I think the original was about 3/4 up.


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## Robert

Gordo said:


> My switch doesn't look as nice as the PedalPCB version (the painted part) but will touch it up tomorrow.



Don't beat yourself up, mine probably doesn't look as nice in person as it might in the photo. Hell mine was the wrong switch (momentary, doh) but I decided to paint it anyway as a test run. 

You'll be the first one to use the NKK switch in a _completed _build.

On that note, does anyone ever actually use a Univibe in the "vibrato" mode?


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## Gordo

Truth be told you could realistically leave out the switch altogether and just wire for chorus, which is a misnomer in itself.


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## Bricksnbeatles

Robert said:


> On that note, does anyone ever actually use a Univibe in the "vibrato" mode?


Todd Rundgren almost certainly did on some *live* versions of Sweeter Memories.


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## Billyhank

Gordo said:


> Here's what I have so far:


How is the speed switch board wired? Is it just hole for hole? 
Looks really good!! Nice job


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## benny_profane

Robert said:


> On that note, does anyone ever actually use a Univibe in the "vibrato" mode?


It’s not a bad sound at all—but it’s a pretty elaborate way to add a bit of movement.


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## jjjimi84

Robert said:


> Don't beat yourself up, mine probably doesn't look as nice in person as it might in the photo. Hell mine was the wrong switch (momentary, doh) but I decided to paint it anyway as a test run.
> 
> You'll be the first one to use the NKK switch in a _completed _build.
> 
> On that note, does anyone ever actually use a Univibe in the "vibrato" mode?



No, why use that vibrato sound when the cjorus sound is that good. I got mine boxed up and it sounds and looks great, the faceplate is really killer


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## Gordo

Here's how it wrapped up.  I couldn't get the LEDs flush so I'll revisit those when I get some more Red 5mm.  You can see the angled LDRs in the second photo.  And the third is my little buddy reminding me that it's ok to lighten up and play from time to time.

I'll fiddle with light shields but to be honest I don't think it really needs one once you get it all together.  I doubt that unless you're using super brights on the front panel that the ambient within the chassis will goof it up.


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## JamieJ

The painted switch looks great!


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## Feral Feline

So does the dog! Name?


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## fig

I real-time love it! Well done.


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## Feral Feline

So you're saying you don't love it in fake-time? 

What's not to love?


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## Gordo

Little guy's name is Dylan. He's not a fan of the hobby but checks in on me from time to time.


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## carlinb17

any chance there is a the parts list for this floating around? I saw the drill template and comments about what light and ldr to use


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## fig

Feral Feline said:


> So you're saying you don't love it in fake-time?
> 
> What's not to love?


I love it on alternate time-lines so there! 🤣


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## Gordo

Yupp, I believe this is pretty accurate: https://forum.pedalpcb.com/threads/electrovibe-parts-list.7357/


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## carlinb17

Gordo said:


> Yupp, I believe this is pretty accurate: https://forum.pedalpcb.com/threads/electrovibe-parts-list.7357/


Thank you


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## ADAOCE

Great build! I noticed you didn’t socket all the 5088s. Do these transistors need to be checked for certain characteristics or can we just grab a bunch and solder them all in? I need to get a component tester I’m not the biggest fan of using sockets.


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## Gordo

I just let fly.  The only thing I matched is the manufacturer.  I really should use sockets but unless it's going to be critical I get too lazy.  Maybe the next time around I'll match them and see if it makes a difference.


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## jjjimi84

Gordo said:


> I just let fly.  The only thing I matched is the manufacturer.  I really should use sockets but unless it's going to be critical I get too lazy.  Maybe the next time around I'll match them and see if it makes a difference.



Same for me, just gain buckets


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## ADAOCE

Sweet thanks for the replies I’m just gonna send it


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## Gordo

And the money shot.  I got the knobs in from SmallBear today (and if you've been noticing a delay in shipping lately due to staffing and Covid, it's pretty much gone and service is very fast).  This thing is sick.


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## cooder

Top notch stuff, Gordo!


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## Harry Klippton

Looking great! Where'd you source your rocker switch?


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## Gordo

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/633-M201503DC


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## Harry Klippton

Dank you good sir


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## Gordo

Thanks folks.  This is a really special one for me in that it duplicates both the coolest parts, and the short comings of the original.  I think it would be hard to do one without the other in terms of being legit.

I'm building the other board I got for a buddy of mine so I'll get a bit more detailed on this one.  I need to bone up on the tech dissection from GEO to see if I'm missing anything.

Is this the be all end all Univibe?  Maybe.  But I'd bet no two vibes sound the same and with a half dozen under my belt none of them sound the same either.  It's like building Fuzz Faces.  This one doesn't cut corners or introduce much in terms of progress.  It simply displays what the original was/is.  I'll detail any differences on the second version.  I'm interested to see how this pans out.


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## Gordo

Here's the revised (new LED's) first one and the buddy-build.  Fancy light shield and shielded cable don't seem to make any difference at all, nor does making sure the transistors are all in range of each other.  For the record I found it easier to dial in the sound if there was some distance between the LDR's and the lamp.  You can drive the lamp a little bit brighter and have a bit more range on the Bias trimmer.


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## JamieJ

Good work @Gordo - it’s interesting to hear that the LDR placement makes minimal difference to the sound.


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## cooder

Excellent and thanks for the details on lamp ldr placement and stuff.
As I have never had the chance to play an original, what do you mean exactly with 'coolest parts and shortcomings of original'; would love to hear your take on that a bit more in detail. You mentioned noise being an issue?


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## Robert

Gordo said:


> This one doesn't cut corners or introduce much in terms of progress.  It simply displays what the original was/is.



I appreciate this comment, that was my goal.   (Aside from being AC powered or needing a weird expression pedal to control the rate)

I do have plans for another version that has a bit more "modern" treatment.


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## Big Monk

Anybody know the current draw for the Electrovibe? I don’t have any taps greater than 100 mA on my two power bricks anymore.


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## caiofilipini

@Gordo did you figure out how to squeeze a little more volume out of it after all?


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## JamieJ

Big Monk said:


> Anybody know the current draw for the Electrovibe? I don’t have any taps greater than 100 mA on my two power bricks anymore.


I’ll try and test it on my build this evening and let you know.


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## Big Monk

Gordo said:


> Got the little beastie together and waiting for paint to dry completely.  My switch doesn't look as nice as the PedalPCB version (the painted part) but will touch it up tomorrow.
> 
> I'm noticing a slight volume drop at max volume (which, again, is true to the original).  Any thoughts on getting more signal out of this puppy?  Was hoping to hit unity at about 3/4 or so.





caiofilipini said:


> @Gordo did you figure out how to squeeze a little more volume out of it after all?



I was looking through the schematic after seeing these two posts and here's my take (could be way off here)...

Not knowing a ton about the univibe architecture, I assumed that the switch right before the Volume control is the SPST for Chorus/Vibrato. I ended up pulling R.G.'s "Technology of the Univibe" to confirm:









Again, I'm taking a shot at this but could be wrong. I'm assuming most people don't actually use Vibrato mode here but I'll crunch the numbers anyway.

In Chorus mode, you take the output off the 100k/100k voltage divider into the Volume control. I assumed the Volume control in parallel with R17 here and then calculated the output signal as a percentage of the signal hitting R16 and got 33%. This should be similar to those who have ever modified an Epiphone Valve Junior, as that circuit has a similar arrangement but with 1M.

So if we simulate an infinite impedance by using 5M for R17, we'd get 50% signal through instead of 33%. What I'm not sure of is how this affects the rest of the circuit. A less invasive measure for the actual circuit topology might be to swap the Volume control out for a higher value.

If we swap the 100kB for a 250kB and 500kB, respectively, the available amount of output signal goes up to 42% and 45%.

For Vibrato mode, the output is taken off the R20/R18 divider. There seems to be considerably more signal getting through to the Volume control here so you'd have to adjust the Volume control in this mode or tweak the resistive divider, which again, may have downstream impacts.

A simpler way might be to change R4 and get more signal into the circuit in the beginning:




Again, fans of the Epiphone Valve Junior will remember that one of the earliest mods was correcting the input voltage divider that was present on the V1 and V2 circuits. In this configuration, the 1M resistor originally found across the input jacks in the Tweed Champ circuits was placed AFTER the input resistor in the early Valve Juniors. This formed a resistive divider at the input.

Here, the R1/R4 divider can be tweaked to allow more signal to pass into the circuit. Stock, it lets 41% of the signal get through. So if you find that you are having volume issues, you can tweak R7 up. For example, 100k goes to 45%, 250k to 48%, 2M to 50%, etc.

Here, the R1/R4 divider can be tweaked to allow more signal to pass into the circuit. Stock, it lets 68% of the signal get through. So if you find that you are having volume issues, you can tweak R7 up. For example, 100k goes to 82%, 250k to 92%, 2M to 99%, etc.

(Edited because my simple voltage divider calcs were off because of a copy/paste error in Excel)

Not sure if I'm way off base here or not.


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## Gordo

I might diddle with this a bit.  My assumption is that the unity or even slight volume drop matches the original to my recollection.  It doesn't bother me but it would be cool to have a bit more umph.  Vibes round out the top end a bit so there is a perceived level difference as well.


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## Big Monk

Gordo said:


> I might diddle with this a bit.  My assumption is that the unity or even slight volume drop matches the original to my recollection.  It doesn't bother me but it would be cool to have a bit more umph.  Vibes round out the top end a bit so there is a perceived level difference as well.



When it comes to reaching Unity Gain, there is no need to be traditional!


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## Big Monk

JamieJ said:


> I’ll try and test it on my build this evening and let you know.



What are you running it with? If it will run on a 100 mA tap, I’m good. If not, I’ll need an external supply.


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## Big Monk

I’m getting my parts order together. The only thing I’m going to deviate on is increasing R4 for better control over unity gain and to use a bi-color LED for speed.

I’m going to have a matte dark gray enclosure drilled through Tayda.


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## JamieJ

Big Monk said:


> What are you running it with? If it will run on a 100 mA tap, I’m good. If not, I’ll need an external supply.


Yeah mine is on a 100ma supply.


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## Gordo

Bi-color would be slick.  Let me know how the R4 mod works for you.  I'd be concerned with clipping but then again that might add some cool character too.  Looking forward to seeing what you do.


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## Big Monk

Gordo said:


> Bi-color would be slick.  Let me know how the R4 mod works for you.  I'd be concerned with clipping but then again that might add some cool character too.  Looking forward to seeing what you do.



R.G. discusses this mod in “Technology of the UniVibe”. The Uni-Vibe Preamp section has about 12 dB of gain on tap. He recommends upwards of 2.2 Meg of resistance at R4, which essentially allows 100% of the inout signal to go through.

Well, the values I listed were just common resistors. For instance, if R4 = 47k (stock) lets 68% of the input signal through, and R4= 100k lets 82% through, we have other common values to entertain there in the middle. I guess we’d have to know the effect of going from 68% signal to 100% on the rest of the circuit.

In my mind, allowing more signal through simple makes it so I have more range on the volume knob, but that may not be a 1:1 correlation. Ideally, what might be best is to take a spare 1590BB baseplate, notch it, and fly leads tacked onto the R4 pads outside the chassis to a 100k-1M pot. Then you could tweak that pot and the volume control and test if clipping becomes an issue.

As for the Bi-color LEDs, they are common cathode so I’d have to switch the anodes and I’m unsure if that would cause any noise issues. I have to look into it a little more. I’d love to do it though.

EDIT: I found common anode bi-color LEDs so I’ll simply tap directly to the 3rd pole of the Speed switch with a Cathode on each side and tap into the the power from the board anode tap.


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## Big Monk

I think what I'll do on this one is connect the common anode and either the blue or red LED to the pads on the board:





Then it's simply a matter of find the spare terminal on the speed switch and connecting the other LED cathode there with a separate wire. I'll find it prior to soldering the switch in and run it underneath everything to hide it.


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## Robert

The design originally had a 2-color LED but there was no obvious indication of which color corresponded to which Speed control, so it was scrapped.

It'll be a little tricky to use the Speed breakout board.   The lug you'll need to use is tied to another one, but it'd be fairly easy to wire it up without the breakout board.


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## Big Monk

Robert said:


> The design originally had a 2-color LED but there was no obvious indication of which color corresponded to which Speed control, so it was scrapped.
> 
> It'll be a little tricky to use the Speed breakout board.   The lug you'll need to use is tied to another one, but it'd be fairly easy to wire it up without the breakout board.



Understood. Just out of curiosity, what was the trouble with how the indication worked out? Wouldn't you just assume a color for each speed control, i.e. Speed 1 = Red and Speed 2 = Blue?

Do you have a rough layout of the connections on the Speed breakout board? I like the idea of the breakout boards for general cleanliness so I don't want to scrap that idea at all. Obviously if the spare middle lug is not available you are 100% right and i'd have to scrap the idea if i want to keep the board AND do the Bi-color LED.

Dang!


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## Big Monk

So, armed with the above comments from @PedalPCB, my multimeter and the Speed breakout board, I did a little research and continuity checking. 

The center switch on the Speed board has the top most lugged tied to the center and connecting to ground through the pad on the main board. 

I popped a switch in the breakout board to check whether leaving these 2 pads unsoldered on the board would allow me to bypass the integrated jumper trace. Other than normal switching continuity, there was never continuity between pads due to the integrated jumper. This is good news with respect to using a bicolor LED!

So here is how I see this going:

1.) Install 1/2 of the Bi LED as normal. The common anode makes connection on the main board to power and one of the cathodes makes connection to the bottom lug of the center switch as normal. 

2.) Leave the top and center lugs of the Speed switch unsoldered on the breakout board. This nullifies the integrated jumper. Use the main board ground pad on the Speed switch rail to run a wire to the center lug of the center switch. 

3.) Attach a wire to the remaining Bi LED cathode and attach it to the top lug on the Speed switch center switch. 

This should look very clean as the wires can be hidden under the Speed switch breakout board. You simply have to suss out which color corresponds to what Speed control.


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## Robert

Big Monk said:


> Understood. Just out of curiosity, what was the trouble with how the indication worked out? Wouldn't you just assume a color for each speed control, i.e. Speed 1 = Red and Speed 2 = Blue?



Sure, but it was just as easy to assume LED On = Speed 1, LED Off = Speed 2.    It seemed more obvious that the LED near the Speed 1 knob being lit indicated that it was the active control.

Two colors looks cool, it just didn't offer any more clarity as to which mode was selected.    If I had it to do over again I'd probably leave the bi-color LED pads in place and let the builder decide.

If you're going to use the breakout board you might consider just cutting the jumper trace, then you can solder all of the lugs and add your jumper wire.


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## Big Monk

Robert said:


> Sure, but it was just as easy to assume LED On = Speed 1, LED Off = Speed 2.    It seemed more obvious that the LED near the Speed 1 knob being lit indicated that it was the active control.



That's what I figured. Either way it works but not using the bi-color is definitely easier. 



Robert said:


> If you're going to use the breakout board you might consider just cutting the jumper trace, then you can solder all of the lugs and add your jumper wire.



I thought about this but the ground connection is through the jumper from the top lug. If I cut the jumper, I'd still need a jumper wire to ground for the middle lug. It just seemed easier to leave the board alone and leave those two pads unsoldered.


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## Gordo

Robert said:


> If I had it to do over again I'd probably leave the bi-color LED pads in place and let the builder decide.


Would also be cool to have an LED next to each speed knob.


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## Gordo

cooder said:


> Excellent and thanks for the details on lamp ldr placement and stuff.
> As I have never had the chance to play an original, what do you mean exactly with 'coolest parts and shortcomings of original'; would love to hear your take on that a bit more in detail. You mentioned noise being an issue?


Thanks Cooder.  The original, besides being the size of a loaf of bread, had a slight drop in volume.  I think because it had a tendancy to drop a tiny bit off the top and the bottom frequencies it was likely more of a perceived volume loss.  The pedal was a bit hissy, although hardly a deal breaker.  I always liked it early in the signal chain so that it became a bit more evil sounding than "effect-y".  The coolest part was that the LFO was kinda lumpy in a way that I haven't heard many clones capture.

That's not to say that the more modern versions aren't cool, just in a different way.  I've enjoyed Bean's Harbinger series as well as a few commercially available pedals.

After doing a bit of reading on the originals I realized that mine was the first gen Unicord version.  I always thought it was Univox.  I guess they were only made for a short time before Shin-Ei started making them.


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## andare

Big Monk said:


> So, armed with the above comments from @PedalPCB, my multimeter and the Speed breakout board, I did a little research and continuity checking.
> 
> The center switch on the Speed board has the top most lugged tied to the center and connecting to ground through the pad on the main board.
> 
> I popped a switch in the breakout board to check whether leaving these 2 pads unsoldered on the board would allow me to bypass the integrated jumper trace. Other than normal switching continuity, there was never continuity between pads due to the integrated jumper. This is good news with respect to using a bicolor LED!
> 
> So here is how I see this going:
> 
> 1.) Install 1/2 of the Bi LED as normal. The common anode makes connection on the main board to power and one of the cathodes makes connection to the bottom lug of the center switch as normal.
> 
> 2.) Leave the top and center lugs of the Speed switch unsoldered on the breakout board. This nullifies the integrated jumper. Use the main board ground pad on the Speed switch rail to run a wire to the center lug of the center switch.
> 
> 3.) Attach a wire to the remaining Bi LED cathode and attach it to the top lug on the Speed switch center switch.
> 
> This should look very clean as the wires can be hidden under the Speed switch breakout board. You simply have to suss out which color corresponds to what Speed control.


If one doesn't solder those two footswitch lugs to the breakout board isn't it possible that they still make contact with the pads?


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## Big Monk

andare said:


> If one doesn't solder those two footswitch lugs to the breakout board isn't it possible that they still make contact with the pads?



I tested that with the breakout board sitting unsoldered on top of a new switch. There was no continuity between the unsoldered lugs in the middle. That is, other than normal switch continuity, i.e. the jumper did not come into play.


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## Bricksnbeatles

When I make mine, I’m going to do the bi-color led (no breakout board), and just use a red and a blue chicken head knob for the two speed controls.


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## Gordo

Now that is a cool idea that's been staring at us all along.  I love it.


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## Big Monk

Bricksnbeatles said:


> When I make mine, I’m going to do the bi-color led (no breakout board), and just use a red and a blue chicken head knob for the two speed controls.



That’s a slick idea. Although, I’m sticking with the breakout board because I’m using pin headers to eliminate the hookup wires and make everything look cleaner.


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## ChunkyKarma

Gordo said:


> https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/633-M201503DC


That link takes you to a switch that is ON - (OFF).  Isn't this the one we're looking for: ON-ON? It's less expensive as well:


			https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/633-M2012TNW01-DC


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## Gordo

Hmmm, when I hit the link it takes me to an on-on switch.


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## Big Monk

Gordo said:


> Hmmm, when I hit the link it takes me to an on-on switch.



Same here.


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## Robert

The switch at the link shows "ON-(ON)" in the description, but "ON-(OFF)" lower down the page in the specs.

One thing you have to be careful for is when a state is shown in parentheses the switch is usually momentary in that position.

This is the switch I used:


			https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/633-M2012TNW01-DC


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## Big Monk

Just a heads up: I was putting my order list together for the Paragon Mini, Kliche Mini and Electrovibe. I found everything I needed between Small Bear, Tayda, and Jameco.

Jameco has the 9203 LDRs in stock. They have a $20 minimum on orders or else you get hit with a $10 surcharge so I bought 8 and a couple of Burr Brown ICs for auditioning in my Boss SD-1 once i get an IC socket in there.


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## Gordo

Double checked my bom from Mouser and it's the:

M2012TNW01-DC
NKK Rocker Switches
US HTS:8536509065 ECCN:EAR99 COO:CN

I have to admit though that I'm always nervous ordering from Mouser for odd stuff like this cuz I usually goof it up.  This one was a winner though.


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## highway31

Hey boys and girls,
I just finished my Electovibe 😊 Building was great and it works like expected! 👍
I attach some pictures.
Jimi


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## andare

highway31 said:


> Hey boys and girls,
> I just finished my Electovibe 😊 Building was great and it works like expected! 👍
> I attach some pictures.
> Jimi


Beautiful work! How did you make the light shield?


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## Big Monk

N


highway31 said:


> Hey boys and girls,
> I just finished my Electovibe 😊 Building was great and it works like expected! 👍
> I attach some pictures.
> Jimi


Nice build!

I will say though, I believe some members and admins here have shown that the light shield is not really required.


----------



## Gordo

Light shield is nice for the setup but once it's closed up you should be good.  Man, that's a great job.  I love the red knobs and the way the red/black theme carries over to the inside.  Nicely done!


----------



## andare

I've been seeing those red electros on boards everywhere lately.


----------



## andare

Big Monk said:


> That’s a slick idea. Although, I’m sticking with the breakout board because I’m using pin headers to eliminate the hookup wires and make everything look cleaner.


Noob question: how do you connect the pin headers on the PCB to those on the breakout board?


----------



## Big Monk

andare said:


> Noob question: how do you connect the pin headers on the PCB to those on the breakout board?


Well, there’s pins on both sides. So one side goes to the main board and the other to the breakout board. 

In my case I’ll break off a 1x3 and 1x4 because I’m running a jumper from the ground pad to my switch for enabling the bi-color LED.


----------



## Nostradoomus

andare said:


> I've been seeing those red electros on boards everywhere lately.



They are Wurth brand, I usually get them from DigiKey. Been using them for quite some time and they’re pretty solid!


----------



## andare

Big Monk said:


> Well, there’s pins on both sides. So one side goes to the main board and the other to the breakout board.
> 
> In my case I’ll break off a 1x3 and 1x4 because I’m running a jumper from the ground pad to my switch for enabling the bi-color LED.


So you put the pin headers in the pads on both the PCB and the breakout board but how do you connect the two boards together? Do you use one of those ribbon wires with the white plastic female connector like they use in wah pedals?

As for wiring the bi-color LED I'll have to process it a bit longer haha. If you weren't doing that you would just use two 1x9 headers, right?


----------



## highway31

andare said:


> Beautiful work! How did you make the light shield?


DIY with a thin aluminium sheet and an exacto knife


----------



## Big Monk

andare said:


> So you put the pin headers in the pads on both the PCB and the breakout board but how do you connect the two boards together? Do you use one of those ribbon wires with the white plastic female connector like they use in wah pedals?
> 
> As for wiring the bi-color LED I'll have to process it a bit longer haha. If you weren't doing that you would just use two 1x9 headers, right?



They have pins on both sides:


----------



## andare

Big Monk said:


> They have pins on both sides:


Of course, so the boards will simply overlap. Here I was picturing all kinds of wiring haha.

Thanks!


----------



## Big Monk

andare said:


> Of course, so the boards will simply overlap. Here I was picturing all kinds of wiring haha.
> 
> Thanks!



Nope! That's what I'm hoping to eliminate!


----------



## andare

Big Monk said:


> Nope! That's what I'm hoping to eliminate!


The overlap or the wiring?


----------



## Big Monk

andare said:


> The overlap or the wiring?



The wiring.


----------



## andare

Big Monk said:


> The wiring.


Thanks for the patience!


----------



## Big Monk

andare said:


> Thanks for the patience!



No sweat! This circuit is new to me as well.


----------



## pi.cast

Terrific builds on this thread!
For people who have already built an electrovibe: could you point me to the LDRs and Bulb you have used?
I just received my PCB today and I'm in the process of ordering the components, but hadn't any luck finding 9203 or 7532 LDRs anywhere.

Also, would Mouser 560-7371 bulb be correct?



			https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/JKL-Components/7371?qs=Xy34DXS8EhZj5jJNfs41vw%3D%3D


----------



## Big Monk

pi.cast said:


> Terrific builds on this thread!
> For people who have already built an electrovibe: could you point me to the LDRs and Bulb you have used?
> I just received my PCB today and I'm in the process of ordering the components, but hadn't any luck finding 9203 or 7532 LDRs anywhere.
> 
> Also, would Mouser 560-7371 bulb be correct?
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/JKL-Components/7371?qs=Xy34DXS8EhZj5jJNfs41vw%3D%3D



Jameco has the 9203 LDRs in stock. That’s where I just got mine.


----------



## jjjimi84

pi.cast said:


> Terrific builds on this thread!
> For people who have already built an electrovibe: could you point me to the LDRs and Bulb you have used?
> I just received my PCB today and I'm in the process of ordering the components, but hadn't any luck finding 9203 or 7532 LDRs anywhere.
> 
> Also, would Mouser 560-7371 bulb be correct?
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/JKL-Components/7371?qs=Xy34DXS8EhZj5jJNfs41vw%3D%3D


Smallbear has the 9203 ldr and the 7371, that is what i used in both my electrovibe builds


----------



## pi.cast

@Big Monk @jjjimi84  thanks both for the replies!
I did forget to mention I'm located in Europe so would like to avoid buying overseas because of duties and long times.
I'll keep these two sources in mind however, If I cannot find anything within shorter reach.


----------



## Gordo

Looks like SB is out of the 9203's but the do have the 7371.  The Mouser part would be fine as well.


----------



## pi.cast

Searching more about Univibe components, I've found this list of compatible LDRs:





Some of them are available in Europe through Digi-key. I think I'll try to order some of the following:


Digi-Key CodeManuf. CodeManufacturerDescriptionRise TimeFall TimeMin. Dark ResistanceLight Resistance Min-MaxNSL-6112-NDNSL-6112Advanced PhotonixPHOTOCELL--1,3 MOhms @ 5s0,17 ~ 2kohm a 21 luxNSL-4960-NDNSL-4960Advanced PhotonixPHOTOCELL--1 MOhms @ 5s0,5 ~ 17kohm a 10 luxNSL-5152-NDNSL-5152Advanced PhotonixPHOTOCELL CDS 400OHM TO-18--5 MOhms @ 5s10 ~ 20kohm a 21 luxNSL-5112-NDNSL-5112Advanced PhotonixPHOTOCELL CDS 700OHM TO-18--670 kOhms @ 5s6 ~ 14kohm a 21 lux

Please note that Digi-Key has some LDRs from Advanced Photonix named 9203, but the specs are different from Small-bear or Jameco.

Hope this might help other european members!


----------



## Big Monk

jjjimi84 said:


> Smallbear has the 9203 ldr and the 7371, that is what i used in both my electrovibe builds



I think Small Bear is out of stock on the 9203. That’s why needed up going with Jameco.


----------



## jcrhee

Newb question, is the light shield needed for this build?


----------



## jjjimi84

jcrhee said:


> Newb question, is the light shield needed for this build?


I didnt make one but you could


----------



## Coda

jcrhee said:


> Newb question, is the light shield needed for this build?


Out side the enclosure, yes. But once buttoned up, it shouldn’t be a problem…


----------



## pi.cast

Hi everybody,
I’ve finally started putting together the electrovibe pcb. Has someone already located the 47k input resistor that R.G. Keen suggests replacing to increase volume?

I’ve read before in this thread that it should be R4 but resistors are not numbered on the pcb and full docs aren’t available yet.

Thank you!


----------



## Big Monk

pi.cast said:


> Hi everybody,
> I’ve finally started putting together the electrovibe pcb. Has someone already located the 47k input resistor that R.G. Keen suggests replacing to increase volume?
> 
> I’ve read before in this thread that it should be R4 but resistors are not numbered on the pcb and full docs aren’t available yet.
> 
> Thank you!


----------



## pi.cast

Big Monk said:


>


Thanks a lot!


----------



## Big Monk

Predrilled Dark Matte Grey Enclosure is in for my Electrovibe:





It is a perfect match for the faceplate. I have the Tayda dimensions if anyone needs them. I just need to enlarge a few holes prior to assembly. The Chorus/Vibrato hole is a touch too small and I need to enlarge the DC Jack, Output jack and LED Bezel holes.


----------



## andare

Big Monk said:


> Predrilled Dark Matte Grey Enclosure is in for my Electrovibe:
> 
> View attachment 16142
> 
> It is a perfect match for the faceplate. I have the Tayda dimensions if anyone needs them. I just need to enlarge a few holes prior to assembly. The Chorus/Vibrato hole is a touch too small and I need to enlarge the DC Jack, Output jack and LED Bezel holes.


Tayda dimensions would be cool for sure although I can get them from the drill template.


----------



## Big Monk

Anyone have any comments or procedure around tuning the Electrovibe once built? I’m mainly thinking the biasing pot, etc and how to tune the pedal, ideal settings, etc.


----------



## JamieJ

Check out Dan’s Electrovibe. He demos all of that.


----------



## Chris411

Gordo said:


> I'm bummed that I can't find grey crackle paint. Maybe it's not made anymore. Gotta find some small chicken heads though.


Sorry for this late reply, but I'm just catching up on my ElectroVibe threads as I'm troubleshooting mine...



			Amazon.com


----------



## Chris411

And I made a light shield using the cap from an Elmer's glue stick.  It has to be trimmed a little to fit inside of the 1590BB2 enclosure I used, but might not need to be if you use a 1590BBS. I painted the inside of the cap with mirror silver paint, and after I get done troubleshooting and tuning, I'm probably going put in in the right spot and then use some double-sided tape on the top of the cap to affix it to the cover of the enclosure when I screw it all together.  That way I can easily change the lamp when the time comes.


----------



## Big Monk

Chris411 said:


> And I made a light shield using the cap from an Elmer's glue stick.  It has to be trimmed a little to fit inside of the 1590BB2 enclosure I used, but might not need to be if you use a 1590BBS. I painted the inside of the cap with mirror silver paint, and after I get done troubleshooting and tuning, I'm probably going put in in the right spot and then use some double-sided tape on the top of the cap to affix it to the cover of the enclosure when I screw it all together.  That way I can easily change the lamp when the time comes.



Other than initial tuning, I don’t think you need a permanent light shield.


----------



## Chris411

And if anyone is interested in making art or decals for this, here is a font file:


----------



## mandolintom88

Big Monk said:


> Predrilled Dark Matte Grey Enclosure is in for my Electrovibe:
> 
> View attachment 16142
> 
> It is a perfect match for the faceplate. I have the Tayda dimensions if anyone needs them. I just need to enlarge a few holes prior to assembly. The Chorus/Vibrato hole is a touch too small and I need to enlarge the DC Jack, Output jack and LED Bezel holes.


Did you ever happen to post those drill di


Big Monk said:


> Predrilled Dark Matte Grey Enclosure is in for my Electrovibe:
> 
> View attachment 16142
> 
> It is a perfect match for the faceplate. I have the Tayda dimensions if anyone needs them. I just need to enlarge a few holes prior to assembly. The Chorus/Vibrato hole is a touch too small and I need to enlarge the DC Jack, Output jack and LED Bezel holes.


Did you ever happen to post those tayda drill dimensions?


----------



## Big Monk

mandolintom88 said:


> Did you ever happen to post those drill di
> 
> Did you ever happen to post those tayda drill dimensions?



No, but I can sign into Tayda Drill tomorrow and post them here.


----------



## mandolintom88

Big Monk said:


> No, but I can sign into Tayda Drill tomorrow and post them here.


Thank you, id appreciate it!


----------



## Big Monk

mandolintom88 said:


> Thank you, id appreciate it!



Just tweak the hole sizes to your needs. The positions are bang-on so i wouldnt mess with those:


----------



## mandolintom88

Big Monk said:


> Just tweak the hole sizes to your needs. The positions are bang-on so i wouldnt mess with those:
> 
> View attachment 17071


Thank you! I appreciate it.


----------



## andare

Big Monk said:


> Just tweak the hole sizes to your needs. The positions are bang-on so i wouldnt mess with those:
> 
> View attachment 17071


Fantastic, thanks.


----------



## ntuncer

pi.cast said:


> Searching more about Univibe components, I've found this list of compatible LDRs:
> 
> View attachment 15746
> 
> Some of them are available in Europe through Digi-key. I think I'll try to order some of the following:
> 
> 
> Digi-Key CodeManuf. CodeManufacturerDescriptionRise TimeFall TimeMin. Dark ResistanceLight Resistance Min-MaxNSL-6112-NDNSL-6112Advanced PhotonixPHOTOCELL--1,3 MOhms @ 5s0,17 ~ 2kohm a 21 luxNSL-4960-NDNSL-4960Advanced PhotonixPHOTOCELL--1 MOhms @ 5s0,5 ~ 17kohm a 10 luxNSL-5152-NDNSL-5152Advanced PhotonixPHOTOCELL CDS 400OHM TO-18--5 MOhms @ 5s10 ~ 20kohm a 21 luxNSL-5112-NDNSL-5112Advanced PhotonixPHOTOCELL CDS 700OHM TO-18--670 kOhms @ 5s6 ~ 14kohm a 21 lux
> 
> Please note that Digi-Key has some LDRs from Advanced Photonix named 9203, but the specs are different from Small-bear or Jameco.
> 
> Hope this might help other european members!


Hello, I'd like to order from Digi-key, which should be the right LDR and bulb for the build?
This is the bulb I find:





						7371 Visual Communications Company - VCC | Optoelectronics | DigiKey
					

Order today, ships today. 7371 – Incandescent Lamp Clear 12V Round with Domed Top RT-1 3/4, 6mm Radial - Bi-Pin .125 from Visual Communications Company - VCC. Pricing and Availability on millions of electronic components from Digi-Key Electronics.




					www.digikey.fr
				



This one is the 9203 but you said that specs are different:





						PDV-P9203 Advanced Photonix | Sensors, Transducers | DigiKey
					

Order today, ships today. PDV-P9203 – CdS Cells 520nm 10 ~ 30kOhms @ 10 lux from Advanced Photonix. Pricing and Availability on millions of electronic components from Digi-Key Electronics.




					www.digikey.fr
				




Cheers


----------



## Big Monk

ntuncer said:


> Hello, I'd like to order from Digi-key, which should be the right LDR and bulb for the build?
> This is the bulb I find:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 7371 Visual Communications Company - VCC | Optoelectronics | DigiKey
> 
> 
> Order today, ships today. 7371 – Incandescent Lamp Clear 12V Round with Domed Top RT-1 3/4, 6mm Radial - Bi-Pin .125 from Visual Communications Company - VCC. Pricing and Availability on millions of electronic components from Digi-Key Electronics.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.digikey.fr
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is the 9203 but you said that specs are different:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PDV-P9203 Advanced Photonix | Sensors, Transducers | DigiKey
> 
> 
> Order today, ships today. PDV-P9203 – CdS Cells 520nm 10 ~ 30kOhms @ 10 lux from Advanced Photonix. Pricing and Availability on millions of electronic components from Digi-Key Electronics.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.digikey.fr
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers



I think the Digikey 9203 specs are slightly different than those from SBE but should be perfectly suitable. I was planning on using them in my Electrovibe mini build.


----------



## ntuncer

Big Monk said:


> I think the Digikey 9203 specs are slightly different than those from SBE but should be perfectly suitable. I was planning on using them in my Electrovibe mini build.


Thanks a lot! What about 7371 bulb of Digikey, is it also correct one?


----------



## Big Monk

ntuncer said:


> Thanks a lot! What about 7371 bulb of Digikey, is it also correct one?



I believe so. That's generic.


----------



## zachlovescoffee

Gordo said:


> Here's what I have so far:


Does it matter how you wire in the bulb?


----------



## pi.cast

ntuncer said:


> Hello, I'd like to order from Digi-key, which should be the right LDR and bulb for the build?
> This is the bulb I find:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 7371 Visual Communications Company - VCC | Optoelectronics | DigiKey
> 
> 
> Order today, ships today. 7371 – Incandescent Lamp Clear 12V Round with Domed Top RT-1 3/4, 6mm Radial - Bi-Pin .125 from Visual Communications Company - VCC. Pricing and Availability on millions of electronic components from Digi-Key Electronics.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.digikey.fr
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is the 9203 but you said that specs are different:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PDV-P9203 Advanced Photonix | Sensors, Transducers | DigiKey
> 
> 
> Order today, ships today. PDV-P9203 – CdS Cells 520nm 10 ~ 30kOhms @ 10 lux from Advanced Photonix. Pricing and Availability on millions of electronic components from Digi-Key Electronics.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.digikey.fr
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers



Actually, before ordering from Digi-key I realized Banzai has the correct bulb as per the bill of material.

Cheers.


----------



## ntuncer

pi.cast said:


> Actually, before ordering from Digi-key I realized Banzai has the correct bulb as per the bill of material.
> 
> Cheers.


That is a great news. I am in EU and struggling to order outside as Digikey also ask 50 euros order for free shipping. Could you please share Banzai link?


----------



## pi.cast

bulb: http://www.banzaimusic.com/Bulb-12V-20mA.html
ldrs: http://www.banzaimusic.com/photo-cell-9203.html


----------



## ntuncer

pi.cast said:


> bulb: http://www.banzaimusic.com/Bulb-12V-20mA.html
> ldrs: http://www.banzaimusic.com/photo-cell-9203.html


Thanks a lot!


----------



## ntuncer

I have just received my pcbs and the parts are on the way! I am not really fan of those 3pdt pcbs. Can anyone help me to show how to wire without them please?


----------



## ntuncer

ntuncer said:


> I have just received my pcbs and the parts are on the way! I am not really fan of those 3pdt pcbs. Can anyone help me to show how to wire without them please?


Here is what I found correct me if I am wrong:

Vibe is normal true bypass wiring.
Speed is like below:



Cheers


----------



## Robert

Yep, that looks correct.


----------



## jrbell1990

Piggybacking here, but I am wondering if I can substitute L78L05 (5V output) for the L78L12 (12V).


----------



## Big Monk

jrbell1990 said:


> Piggybacking here, but I am wondering if I can substitute L78L05 (5V output) for the L78L12 (12V).



I don’t believe so. That voltage regulator is what I believe provides power to the 15v sections, i.e. LFO, etc.


----------



## Robusto

Big Monk said:


> Just tweak the hole sizes to your needs. The positions are bang-on so i wouldnt mess with those:
> 
> View attachment 17071




Does anyone know what the dimensions would be for the square hole lever switch version?


----------



## Big Monk

Robusto said:


> Does anyone know what the dimensions would be for the square hole lever switch version?



Search the ElectroVibe threads. The switch brand is listed in there somewhere. Then you can pull the data sheet for dimensions.


----------



## Bricksnbeatles

Anyone know of a U.S. supplier for the bulb and LDRs now that small bear is out of stock? For some reason I’m not able to order thru Banzai


----------



## Big Monk

Bricksnbeatles said:


> Anyone know of a U.S. supplier for the bulb and LDRs now that small bear is out of stock? For some reason I’m not able to order thru Banzai



Mouser has the bulbs. 

Digikey has 9203 LDRs but they are actually 9200 spec. 

Jameco has legit 9203 LDRs and the bulb but a $20 minimum.


----------



## Harry Klippton

Second for mouser if you're already ordering there


----------



## Bricksnbeatles

Big Monk said:


> Mouser has the bulbs.
> 
> Digikey has 9203 LDRs but they are actually 9200 spec.
> 
> Jameco has legit 9203 LDRs and the bulb but a $20 minimum.


Thanks for the heads up! I should easily be able to find more than $20 worth of stuff to get from jameco.


----------



## Big Monk

Bricksnbeatles said:


> Thanks for the heads up! I should easily be able to find more than $20 worth of stuff to get from jameco.



I’m going to try and test a ton of them when I get the chance.


----------



## AubreySound

Heyo!! any leads on the proper bulb and LDR for this I'm looking at these two from Digikey and wondering if they'll do the job!






						PDV-P9203 Advanced Photonix | Sensors, Transducers | DigiKey
					

Order today, ships today. PDV-P9203 – CdS Cells 520nm 10 ~ 30kOhms @ 10 lux from Advanced Photonix. Pricing and Availability on millions of electronic components from Digi-Key Electronics.




					www.digikey.ca
				








						7371 Visual Communications Company - VCC | Optoelectronics | DigiKey
					

Order today, ships today. 7371 – Incandescent Lamp Clear 12V Round with Domed Top RT-1 3/4, 6mm Radial - Bi-Pin .125 from Visual Communications Company - VCC. Pricing and Availability on millions of electronic components from Digi-Key Electronics.




					www.digikey.ca


----------



## Big Monk

This one from Jameco is actually closer to the spec for the 9203 on the data sheet from SBE:






						CDS Photocell CDS002-9203 Jameco Valuepro
					

Jameco Valuepro CDS002-9203 Photocells, CDS. Products in stock and ready to ship. Quotes, samples and datasheets available at Jameco Electronics.




					www.jameco.com
				




The Digikey units are actually closer in spec to the 9200:





At the end of the day it should make too drastic a difference. I’ve used both and while it seems a marginal amount of extra depth is available with the true 9203, most people won’t notice, especially with the lamp brightness control circuit inside to adjust.


----------

