# 6 Band EQ



## dmnCrawler (Sep 24, 2020)

Not fully complete. Waiting for 5/8 step drill for led stomp and my little elephant in the corner. This was a really fun and challenging build. Really hard to do the enclosure with hand tools and files. My power is also too low because of the plexiglass. This one is imperfect but then again all of them are. I really like the way this works as well. I also used the W20K potentiometers and like the way they work. I have b50k for the next one as well.

I tried to make the interior light up so I could see where it was set even before I turn it on and in the dark.
All in all another great PedalPCB product.

One thing I would like is a 9mm level pot. There is room on the lower right of the board but I was not about to start drilling holes in it just yet .


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## Chuck D. Bones (Sep 24, 2020)

Lookin' good, I dig the 400nm LEDs.


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## Jbanks (Sep 28, 2020)

dmnCrawler said:


> Not fully complete. Waiting for 5/8 step drill for led stomp and my little elephant in the corner. This was a really fun and challenging build. Really hard to do the enclosure with hand tools and files. My power is also too low because of the plexiglass. This one is imperfect but then again all of them are. I really like the way this works as well. I also used the W20K potentiometers and like the way they work. I have b50k for the next one as well.
> 
> I tried to make the interior light up so I could see where it was set even before I turn it on and in the dark.
> All in all another great PedalPCB product.
> ...


Is it obvious how all the screws and bolts work together with the upper deck slider board? Just about to build this and curious how challenging it is. I've built the Muffin Factory with the face plate and DIP switch board so I'm guessing it'll make more sense as I put it together.


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## dmnCrawler (Sep 28, 2020)

Make sure you screw the studs onto the slider board before you mate the boards together. I actually used the faceplate to hold the sliders in place before I even soldered them. These instructions from the project development thread are really good. The faceplate does a good job of covering my filing. If you are not going to use a faceplate I would advise not drilling the top and bottom most holes on the drill template. You can see my center punches here and I never quite reached them. These slots have full travel of my sliders. (From Tayda)


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## dlazzarini (Sep 29, 2020)

dmnCrawler said:


> Make sure you screw the studs onto the slider board before you mate the boards together. I actually used the faceplate to hold the sliders in place before I even soldered them. These instructions from the project development thread are really good. The faceplate does a good job of covering my filing. If you are not going to use a faceplate I would advise not drilling the top and bottom most holes on the drill template. You can see my center punches here and I never quite reached them. These slots have full travel of my sliders. (From Tayda)
> 
> View attachment 6610


You did the same thing as I did when marking the slots. I think the dots on the template are assuming you’re using the face plate which in your case you did. I didn’t discover this until after I’d already milled my slots. So, if anybody is planning on milling their slots and NOT using the face plate I would suggest using the face plate to mark your slots instead of the template. My slots ended extending further in both directions than need be but it’s not really too noticeable.


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## Gordo (Sep 29, 2020)

That back lighting looks very slick.


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## BurntFingers (Sep 30, 2020)

Do tayda sell the milled enclosures for this circuit?


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## Jbanks (Oct 2, 2020)

BurntFingers said:


> Do tayda sell the milled enclosures for this circuit?


Not yet but working on it.


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## RipleyandtheGhost (Jan 31, 2021)

dmnCrawler said:


> Not fully complete. Waiting for 5/8 step drill for led stomp and my little elephant in the corner. This was a really fun and challenging build. Really hard to do the enclosure with hand tools and files. My power is also too low because of the plexiglass. This one is imperfect but then again all of them are. I really like the way this works as well. I also used the W20K potentiometers and like the way they work. I have b50k for the next one as well.
> 
> I tried to make the interior light up so I could see where it was set even before I turn it on and in the dark.
> All in all another great PedalPCB product.
> ...


How much of a discernible difference is there between w20s and b50s? Tayda's been out of b50s for a minute, i'm getting impatient trying to start this build


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## dmnCrawler (Feb 1, 2021)

I do not know if there is a difference because I have not built one yet with the b50k potentiometer. I do know that the w-taper gives me better less control of the change in signal at the extreme.


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## Guybrush (Apr 3, 2021)

Great work. You must be really happy with how it turned out. 

Just wondered if you'd be able to tell me where you got the white tips for the faders from please?

Cheers!


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## dmnCrawler (Apr 3, 2021)

Guybrush said:


> Great work. You must be really happy with how it turned out.
> 
> Just wondered if you'd be able to tell me where you got the white tips for the faders from please?
> 
> Cheers!


I purchased those from tayda. They are switch tips.


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## Guybrush (Apr 3, 2021)

Thanks, much appreciated.

Just need the actual slide pits to come back into stock on Tayda now.

Thanks again.


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