# Circulator R4 print error



## markseo (Nov 11, 2020)

Hi, first time here. Loving all the designs by PedalPCB and really looking forward into building quite a bunch. But I have found an issue when starting a Circulator. My PCB has the values of each component instead of R1, R2, etc printed (so for example, in the place of R1 it directly says 10k). Problem is checking the BOM R4 is supposed to be a 10k resistor, but on my PCB the print says 100K, so R26 and R4 seem to be the other way around. Is this something known (I havent found anything doing a quick search)?

I am following the official pdf (https://docs.pedalpcb.com/project/Circulator.pdf) but my PCB only has the actual component values printed. 
Thanks!


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## markseo (Nov 11, 2020)

uhm also R100 reads as 1M on my PCB, but the BOM says its 4k7 ... All this is getting extremely misleading...


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## Betty Wont (Nov 11, 2020)

Go by what is printed on the pcb. Some have been revised.


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## markseo (Nov 11, 2020)

In such case I am missing stuff from a musikding kit cause it came with the resistors for the BOM, not for the printed PCB (as for example, Ill need more 1M resistors).... this is a big PITA


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## Robert (Nov 11, 2020)

You really shouldn't be missing parts.   The components were just moved around on the board, the values weren't changed.

There should still be the same number of 1M resistors, they're just in different places compared to the image in the build doc.

Follow what is printed on your PCB.

This should be the correct PDF for your revision of the PCB:


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## markseo (Nov 11, 2020)

The kit came with 2 1M resistors (as the BOM states), but in my PCB it says I need 3, one for R2, another for R3 and another one for R100


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## markseo (Nov 11, 2020)

Oh indeed I see R3 is 1K, and there is another 1K right under the IC3 and the 1M resistor

1K resistors where not included with the kit.


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## markseo (Nov 11, 2020)

That looks more like my PCB, thank you


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## markseo (Nov 11, 2020)

No, the values are still not matching.


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## Robert (Nov 11, 2020)

Okay I see, you have the first revision of the board (there have been three).    That's a fairly old one, the only changes made have been to the LED circuit.    Use a 4K7 in the place of that 1K (since that's what you have), it's the current limiting resistor for the LED.   If you find that the LED isn't bright enough you can reduce it. 

Aside from that, follow what is marked on the board.    The board is correct.

It looks like Musikding is using the current build docs but still had an old version of the board.


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## markseo (Nov 11, 2020)

So everything is the same as the documentation you have sent me except for those 1k resistors that I need to replace with the 4k7s?


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## Robert (Nov 11, 2020)

Did you receive a dual LED (3-pin) or a standard 2-pin LED?


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## markseo (Nov 11, 2020)

In that case, theres one 4k7 missing. As the printed PCB already has 2 correctly named 4k7, plus other 2 named 1K but the kit came with 3 4k7 resistors. I guess I have spares, but this is incredibly misleading and gives and absolute sense of abandoning clients


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## markseo (Nov 11, 2020)

I have a 2 pin LED, although the PCB has 3 holes for the LED


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## markseo (Nov 11, 2020)

Funny thing is I bought 10 days ago two kits from musikding, both are exactly the same.


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## Robert (Nov 11, 2020)

Install the long lead of the LED (Anode) into the center pad and the short lead into the pad on the right (marked G).

You can omit the 1K resistor on the bottom left-hand side of the board, it was only used for the dual color LED which was later removed because it never really worked all that great with most two-color LEDs.

I apologize for the confusion but that board was updated over a year ago, I had no idea there were even still any of those left in the world.


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## markseo (Nov 11, 2020)

Do I need to use a jumper on that 1K pads?


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## Robert (Nov 11, 2020)

Nope, just leave it out.


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## markseo (Nov 11, 2020)

Also theres a 1u electrolytic (I guess C13), but all the 1u caps on the kit are film, so no polarity. Should I just solder any of the 6 film caps included (which by the way, are quite big so dont properly fit on the board).

I hope you find someone else to sell kits in Europe because I am not getting nothing from musikding ever again, this is extremely discouraging.


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## Robert (Nov 11, 2020)

Yes, the film cap will be fine for C13.


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## markseo (Nov 11, 2020)

Nah man those 1u film caps are massive, impossible to solder and even think about having space for the pots, etc. 

This feels like an absolute scam from Musikding's side. I have already emailed them. Some sort of refund or compensation should be in place. And please, find someone else in Europe to deal with your kits. Your designs seem amazing, but Musikding is just an absolute disgrace.


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## Robert (Nov 11, 2020)

The pots go on the opposite side of the board, so the caps won't be a problem.  Those 1uF film caps really should have been MLCC, but that isn't specifically spelled out in the build docs so it's not _entirely_ on Musikding.

They're usually good about correcting any issues, and I'll shoot them an email to see about getting those outdated boards replaced.


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## Seasoned Novice (Feb 25, 2022)

Robert said:


> The pots go on the opposite side of the board, so the caps won't be a problem.  Those 1uF film caps really should have been MLCC, but that isn't specifically spelled out in the build docs so it's not _entirely_ on Musikding.
> 
> They're usually good about correcting any issues, and I'll shoot them an email to see about getting those outdated boards replaced.


Sorry to bump and old thread. Also, I'm new here. I just started my build last night and ran into this. Thinking the tall 1uF film caps I used would be okay as long as they're no taller than the electrolytic caps. Is that correct? And is there something special about how the MLCC caps affect the circuit or is it just a matter of fitting on the board? Can I just keep the film caps provided there's enough clearance in the enclosure?  Thanks in advance!!


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## Betty Wont (Feb 25, 2022)

Seasoned Novice said:


> Sorry to bump and old thread. Also, I'm new here. I just started my build last night and ran into this. Thinking the tall 1uF film caps I used would be okay as long as they're no taller than the electrolytic caps. Is that correct? And is there something special about how the MLCC caps affect the circuit or is it just a matter of fitting on the board? Can I just keep the film caps provided there's enough clearance in the enclosure?  Thanks in advance!!View attachment 23500


You are fine as long as everything fits the enclosure. It's all a matter of size and form. You won't notice any audio difference between the caps.


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## Seasoned Novice (Feb 25, 2022)

Betty Wont said:


> You are fine as long as everything fits the enclosure. It's all a matter of size and form. You won't notice any audio difference between the caps.


Awesome, thank you!!


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## fig (Feb 25, 2022)

Betty Wont said:


> It's all a matter of size and form


So, this guy walks into a joke..


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## Betty Wont (Feb 25, 2022)

fig said:


> So, this guy walks into a joke..


Does this knob make my muff look big?


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## Seasoned Novice (Feb 26, 2022)

fig said:


> So, this guy walks into a joke..


Thanks for turning all that into a dick joke!


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## fig (Feb 26, 2022)

I see your point.....my apologies. It was a good read with good info, and your build looks really neat! 
BTW, Welcome to the forum!


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## giovanni (Feb 26, 2022)

@fig turning things into dick jokes since 1983? 1974? 1991? 2002?!? I don’t know your age.


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## fig (Feb 26, 2022)

giovanni said:


> @fig turning things into dick jokes since 1983? 1974? 1991? 2002?!? I don’t know your age.


A few decades shy. Think "Eisenhour"


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## Seasoned Novice (Feb 26, 2022)

fig said:


> I see your point.....my apologies. It was a good read with good info, and your build looks really neat!
> BTW, Welcome to the forum!


All good. Dick jokes are the best!


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