# Your best method for removing thorugh-hole components from a PCB



## andare (Aug 13, 2021)

Hi,

I'm trying to remove a 47uF electrolytic capacitor from a Minnow PCB that is 99% populated. Silly me soldered it where the 4.7uF cap goes...
I'd like to salvage this build because it is expensive and complicated for me but solder sucker and my puny 0.5mm solder wick aren't working.

What is your go-to method from removing through-hole components from a PCB?
Should I just use wider solder wick? 2mm?

Thanks in advance!


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## temol (Aug 13, 2021)

Solder wick is ok but it may not be an easy task if it's a double-sided board with plated holes.  Solder sucker would be better probably.


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## andare (Aug 13, 2021)

temol said:


> Solder wick is ok but it may not be an easy task if it's a double-sided board with plated holes.  Solder sucker would be better probably.


As I wrote solder sucker is not working at all unfortunately. I'm very inexperienced but I suppose all PedalPCB boards are double-sided?


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## SillyOctpuss (Aug 13, 2021)

What kind of solder sucker do you have? I used to have a cheap one which came with a kit I bought when I started and it was useless.  I bought one of these and removing components is much easier now 



			Amazon.co.uk
		


It still takes some patience but it's no longer an impossible task to remove a misplaced component.


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## andare (Aug 13, 2021)

SillyOctpuss said:


> What kind of solder sucker do you have? I used to have a cheap one which came with a kit I bought when I started and it was useless.  I bought one of these and removing components is much easier now
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I have this one that came with my soldering station kit


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## SillyOctpuss (Aug 13, 2021)

That's basically the same as the one I had.  It was useless imho.  Someone else might be able to get them to work but I couldn't.  The one I linked above was about £20 and has been invaluable since I bought it.


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## andare (Aug 13, 2021)

SillyOctpuss said:


> That's basically the same as the one I had.  It was useless imho.  Someone else might be able to get them to work but I couldn't.  The one I linked above was about £20 and has been invaluable since I bought it.


I found it for about 29 Euros on my local Amazon Poland, seems about the same price.
I'll try a wider desoldering braid first and if that doesn't work I'll get this sucker 

Cheers!


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## SillyOctpuss (Aug 13, 2021)

Good luck


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## Flying (Aug 13, 2021)

I find solder wick works much better if you have a tub of flux you can dip the end into before using it, even if the wick is already impregnated with flux.


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## andare (Aug 13, 2021)

Flying said:


> I find solder wick works much better if you have a tub of flux you can dip the end into before using it, even if the wick is already impregnated with flux.


Will try that, thanks


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## Coda (Aug 13, 2021)

I have yet my to figure out how to use solder  wick. I usually use the solder sucker. Sometimes you have to add more solder to get more removed. Sometimes you have to sacrifice the component and snip it out of the circuit. Sometimes you lift a pad and are forced to get to know the schematic. All part of the game, I suppose…


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## temol (Aug 13, 2021)

You need your both hands for this task and third "hand" to keep the board firmly while using a solder sucker. No time to heat the pads and reach for the solder sucker. Heat the pad and already keep tip of the solder sucker next to the pad. Remove the soldering iron and use the sucker immediately. Works even with a cheap one, from allegro  Sometimes it's necessary to repeat the sucking action twice or three times, depending on the amount of the heat you apply.


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## fig (Aug 13, 2021)

Not very helpful, but it is my best method. 
Hope you get it fixed.


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## Robert (Aug 13, 2021)

andare said:


> I'm very inexperienced but I suppose all PedalPCB boards are double-sided?



Almost all modern fabricated PCBs will be double-sided / though-hole plated. 

I add some solder to both pads then heat while pulling gently on the capacitor from the other side.  

You don't want to force it, just enough pressure that it will move when the solder is hot enough.    You could damage the pads or through-hole plating of the PCB if you aren't careful but I've been doing this so long now that I don't even think about it anymore.


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## andare (Aug 13, 2021)

temol said:


> You need your both hands for this task and third "hand" to keep the board firmly while using a solder sucker. No time to heat the pads and reach for the solder sucker. Heat the pad and already keep tip of the solder sucker next to the pad. Remove the soldering iron and use the sucker immediately. Works even with a cheap one, from allegro  Sometimes it's necessary to repeat the sucking action twice or three times, depending on the amount of the heat you apply.


That's how I use the solder sucker but no dice. I stopped after a while because I was afraid of overheating the PCB


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## andare (Aug 13, 2021)

Robert said:


> Almost all modern fabricated PCBs will be double-sided / though-hole plated.
> 
> I add some solder to both pads then heat while pulling gently on the capacitor from the other side.
> 
> You don't want to force it, just enough pressure that it will move when the solder is hot enough.    You could damage the pads or through-hole plating of the PCB if you aren't careful but I've been doing this so long now that I don't even think about it anymore.


Thanks I'll try that although I can't add solder under the capacitor because it's flush with the PCB and it's surrounded by components anyway. I always add electrolytics last.


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## Mcknib (Aug 13, 2021)

I'd agree with adding more solder doing that you can heat the edge of the joint and get your solder sucker right over the joint as it's melting 

With a single 2 pin component I'd do what @PedalPCB suggests with the leads being so close together you should be able to heat both at the same time and gently wiggle it out and remove any remaining solder with your sucker 

Again I'd add more solder first and cut the leads as much as possible


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## matt3310 (Aug 13, 2021)

Send it to me if you want. I'll fix it for you.


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## Harry Klippton (Aug 13, 2021)

I like to use these now









						Stainless Steel Desoldering Needles
					

Top Quality Parts for Guitar Effects Pedals and DIY Music Devices. Knobs, Pots, Switches, Kits, LEDs, Enclosures, Jacks, Wire, Resistors, Capacitors, Semiconductors




					stompboxparts.com


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## maxl0rd (Aug 13, 2021)

Unless it's a super valuable part, I cut it out because it reduces the risk of damaging the pcb. You won't need as much heat to desolder. Then the problem is reduced to removing the solder and the little bit of lead left.

It's possible to do it even with one of those cheapo suckers. I put the board vertically, and place the solder sucker on the under side, with the tip flush against the pcb. It needs to create a vacuum to suck. Heat the component side with the iron, and start triggering the sucker once the solder is moving. You might need to pop it a few times to get everything out.

There are more precise tools for the job, but that's how I do it with the commonly available dingus.


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## andare (Aug 13, 2021)

Hi,

I'm trying to remove a 47uF electrolytic capacitor from a Minnow PCB that is 99% populated. Silly me soldered it where the 4.7uF cap goes...
I'd like to salvage this build because it is expensive and complicated for me but solder sucker and my puny 0.5mm solder wick aren't working.

What is your go-to method from removing through-hole components from a PCB?
Should I just use wider solder wick? 2mm?

Thanks in advance!


----------



## andare (Aug 13, 2021)

matt3310 said:


> Send it to me if you want. I'll fix it for you.


Very generous of you but I don't suppose you live in Krakow?


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## andare (Aug 13, 2021)

maxl0rd said:


> Unless it's a super valuable part, I cut it out because it reduces the risk of damaging the pcb. You won't need as much heat to desolder. Then the problem is reduced to removing the solder and the little bit of lead left.
> 
> It's possible to do it even with one of those cheapo suckers. I put the board vertically, and place the solder sucker on the under side, with the tip flush against the pcb. It needs to create a vacuum to suck. Heat the component side with the iron, and start triggering the sucker once the solder is moving. You might need to pop it a few times to get everything out.
> 
> There are more precise tools for the job, but that's how I do it with the commonly available dingus.


Unfortunately the cap is right in the middle of the PCB and there's no way I can reach the bottom with cutters or the iron.


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## andare (Aug 13, 2021)

Harry Klippton said:


> I like to use these now
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Really cool tools. I'll see if I can find them here. Cheers


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## Harry Klippton (Aug 13, 2021)

andare said:


> Really cool tools. I'll see if I can find them here. Cheers


Once the solder is flowing, you can just push the legs out with the resoldering needle and then clean out the hole with your solder wick


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## Paradox916 (Aug 13, 2021)

I usually hit it with the solder sucker then wick the rest out... taking my time sometimes the components with just fall out. I have learned the hard way a few time if you try and force things and rush you are going to screw up.


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## spi (Aug 13, 2021)

First I use a sucker to get as much solder out as possible.  Then I heat again to pull the component out.

Once I get the component out, if there's solder plugging the hole, I push a needle through while heating the pad.  That usually clears it out.  

I also usually end up stabbing myself with the needle.  That part is optional, but it's a good reminder to double check the component the first time.


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## spi (Aug 13, 2021)

Harry Klippton said:


> I like to use these now
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Nice!  Any needle will do--I use pin needles, but having a handle like that would sure make it easier to work with.


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## Harry Klippton (Aug 13, 2021)

spi said:


> Nice!  Any needle will do--I use pin needles, but having a handle like that would sure make it easier to work with.


These have a flat end and are hollow. They cup the end of a component leg nicely


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## temol (Aug 13, 2021)

fig said:


> Not very helpful, but it is my best method.


I second that. I have a desoldering station.  One of the best purchase decisions


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## temol (Aug 13, 2021)

andare said:


> Very generous of you but I don't suppose you live in Krakow?


ekhm.. really? Krakow?


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## Paradox916 (Aug 13, 2021)

And it never hurts to check the board with your DMM after removal to make sure you didn’t F up... in the event of a future troubleshooting issue you know that the board isn’t the problem... first hand experience: when that sucker doesn’t work right and you didn’t check the board that the first thing that popped in my head... it wasn’t the issue but still... that piece of mind is priceless.


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## andare (Aug 13, 2021)

Paradox916 said:


> And it never hurts to check the board with your DMM after removal to make sure you didn’t F up... in the event of a future troubleshooting issue you know that the board isn’t the problem... first hand experience: when that sucker doesn’t work right and you didn’t check the board that the first thing that popped in my head... it wasn’t the issue but still... that piece of mind is priceless.


What do you mean exactly?


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## andare (Aug 13, 2021)

temol said:


> ekhm.. really? Krakow?


That's where I live.


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## mnemonic (Aug 13, 2021)

When I’ve pulled parts on pedalpcb boards (which I’ve done a few times, and luckily it’s usually just been mods rather than mistakes), I hold the part from the component side, heat the pad on the solder side, and lightly pull (not hard).

resistors are easy since you can bend the lead as you lift it up. Caps are harder since the other leg holds it solid. Usually I have to go back and fourth between each leg, pulling it out just a little bit at a time. Haven’t killed any pads yet, luckily.



fig said:


> Not very helpful, but it is my best method.
> Hope you get it fixed.


I saw someone remove an 8 pin op amp in about 10 seconds with one of these once, and I’ve wanted one ever since.


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## danfrank (Aug 13, 2021)

Harry Klippton said:


> I like to use these now
> 
> 
> 
> ...


These are the way to go... I find that anything soldered to the ground plane is the problem. Did you notice that one lead of your cap moved easier than the other? I had this problem yesterday with a power supply cap on a board I'm working on... The cap was fairly easy to take out (caps are easy to remove because the leads are so close together, you can heat both leads at the same time with a chisel tip iron) but clearing one of the holes (ground plane) was nearly impossible to do. Wick won't do it and a solder sucker won't either. What does work is those SS fine point desoldering tools but a 3rd hand is needed. Another thing that works well is compressed air coming out of a very fine point, but this method is messy.


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## Harry Klippton (Aug 13, 2021)

danfrank said:


> These are the way to go... I find that anything soldered to the ground plane is the problem. Did you notice that one lead of your cap moved easier than the other? I had this problem yesterday with a power supply cap on a board I'm working on... The cap was fairly easy to take out (caps are easy to remove because the leads are so close together, you can heat both leads at the same time with a chisel tip iron) but clearing one of the holes (ground plane) was nearly impossible to do. Wick won't do it and a solder sucker won't either. What does work is those SS fine point desoldering tools but a 3rd hand is needed. Another thing that works well is compressed air coming out of a very fine point, but this method is messy.


Thanks Dan. Never thought about the ground plane issue. Hopefully that saves me from trying to overheat boards in the future


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## andare (Aug 13, 2021)

danfrank said:


> These are the way to go... I find that anything soldered to the ground plane is the problem. Did you notice that one lead of your cap moved easier than the other? I had this problem yesterday with a power supply cap on a board I'm working on... The cap was fairly easy to take out (caps are easy to remove because the leads are so close together, you can heat both leads at the same time with a chisel tip iron) but clearing one of the holes (ground plane) was nearly impossible to do. Wick won't do it and a solder sucker won't either. What does work is those SS fine point desoldering tools but a 3rd hand is needed. Another thing that works well is compressed air coming out of a very fine point, but this method is messy.


What is the ground plane of the PCB?


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## danfrank (Aug 13, 2021)

andare said:


> What is the ground plane of the PCB?


The ground of the circuit, its what covers most of the PCB


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## andare (Aug 13, 2021)

danfrank said:


> The ground of the circuit, its what covers most of the PCB


Aha I didn't know there was one big ground plane. That explains why I see component legs going nowhere


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## andare (Aug 13, 2021)

Ok guys I did it!
I added some solder, put the PCB in the third hand, heated up the joints and jiggled the cap on the other side until it came out. Binned it and ordered a new part.
My cheap solder sucker, after much cajoling, finally cleared both holes.

Thanks a lot to everybody who helped me out, you guys rock.
See you in my next post when the pedal doesn't work for other reasons


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## andare (Aug 13, 2021)

Hi,

I'm trying to remove a 47uF electrolytic capacitor from a Minnow PCB that is 99% populated. Silly me soldered it where the 4.7uF cap goes...
I'd like to salvage this build because it is expensive and complicated for me but solder sucker and my puny 0.5mm solder wick aren't working.

What is your go-to method from removing through-hole components from a PCB?
Should I just use wider solder wick? 2mm?

Thanks in advance!


----------



## Paradox916 (Aug 13, 2021)

andare said:


> What do you mean exactly?


If you are afraid you might have damaged the pad or traces just check it with the DMM


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## fig (Aug 13, 2021)

I believe they do reside in Poland if memory serves correctly.

Hot dog! Great work, and great advice all.


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## temol (Aug 13, 2021)

andare said:


> That's where I live.


What a coincidence... zupełnieprzypadkowo...


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## andare (Aug 13, 2021)

Paradox916 said:


> If you are afraid you might have damaged the pad or traces just check it with the DMM


You're right, of course. Need to stop soldering at 2am


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## andare (Aug 13, 2021)

temol said:


> What a coincidence... zupełnieprzypadkowo...


A jak, naprawdę!


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## Barry (Aug 14, 2021)

fig said:


> Not very helpful, but it is my best method.
> Hope you get it fixed.


I invested in one of these when I was doing a lot of pedal mods, it's great


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## Feral Feline (Aug 14, 2021)

Congrats on freeing your board.

I can relate. My friend has both a small solder-sucker and a large solder-sucker. The small one is the same size as mine, and works for most jobs, but I had a few times where I was working in his shop and that big'n came in super-duper handy. 

Big-Volume Solder-Pump is on my shopping list!


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## mnemonic (Aug 25, 2021)

SillyOctpuss said:


> What kind of solder sucker do you have? I used to have a cheap one which came with a kit I bought when I started and it was useless.  I bought one of these and removing components is much easier now
> 
> 
> 
> ...



I bought one of these since it looks quality, arrived yesterday and today I’ve been pulling electrolytic caps out of a pedal from the mid-80’s since it stopped working last week.

that pump is unreasonably good. Pretty much clears the entire pad on the first shot, so I can just lift the component right off.

highly recommended.

i am using it on a single-sided board though, maybe a through plated board would be tougher.


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## music6000 (Aug 25, 2021)

1. Add a bit of solder to both pads with soldering Iron.
2. Alternate between the 2 pads quickly with Iron while pulling gently & it (Component) should fall out.
3. I use a standard dress makers Pin & heat the Pad & QUICKLY poke the pin through the hole while the solder is still molten & jiggle it so it forms a hole until solder sets.
4. Repeat Number 3 on the 2nd Pad.
Sometimes the excess solder sticks to the Pin but slides off easily.
Sometimes the Solder hangs from the Pad, just nip the excess with wire cutters.


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## SillyOctpuss (Aug 25, 2021)

mnemonic said:


> I bought one of these since it looks quality, arrived yesterday and today I’ve been pulling electrolytic caps out of a pedal from the mid-80’s since it stopped working last week.
> 
> that pump is unreasonably good. Pretty much clears the entire pad on the first shot, so I can just lift the component right off.
> 
> ...


A double sided board definitely isn't as easy as vero or single sided but it's definitely doable.  I'll usually take a few goes but it's much easier with that solder sucker than the old el cheapo one I used to use.


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## spilla (Aug 26, 2021)

This has been a great upgrade to the standard solder suckers. It has sacrificial/replacable silicon tips. You can suck up the solder while the iron is still touching the part. The silicone tips are very hardy. I'm still on my original tips a yr after buying it.






						ENGINEER SS-02 Solder Sucker/Desoldering Pump with Innovative Silicone Nozzle, Efficient Absorption, 153mm Aluminum Durable Body Ideal for one-Handed Operation, Made in Japan : Amazon.com.au: Home Improvement
					

ENGINEER SS-02 Solder Sucker/Desoldering Pump with Innovative Silicone Nozzle, Efficient Absorption, 153mm Aluminum Durable Body Ideal for one-Handed Operation, Made in Japan : Amazon.com.au: Home Improvement



					www.amazon.com.au


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## andare (Aug 26, 2021)

spilla said:


> This has been a great upgrade to the standard solder suckers. It has sacrificial/replacable silicon tips. You can suck up the solder while the iron is still touching the part. The silicone tips are very hardy. I'm still on my original tips a yr after buying it.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Looks great. I actually managed to get it done with my cheap sucker and I bought 1.5mm solder wick which works beautifully without adding flux.
Still working on this Minnow build but I should be done this weekend and I'll post an update.


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## Bricksnbeatles (Aug 26, 2021)

I’ve always used a heated desoldering pump.

got one like this many years ago, and it works great








						RadioShack 45W Desoldering Iron with Vacuum Bulb
					

With a vacuum bulb and a 45W heating element, this desoldering iron makes it easy to remove molten solder from boards and wires safely while still keeping one hand free. Includes a stand for safe placement. Part Number 6402052 Tip Hole Diameter 0.055in (1.4mm) Power Rating 45W Tip Material...




					www.radioshack.com


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