# Tommy V2 Build start today



## ersa9000 (Mar 10, 2020)

I ve got no plan so it might be a little bit difficult.. but here are some good pics.. but if somebody have some experiences with this I would be pleased to get some hints..


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## Cucurbitam0schata (Mar 10, 2020)

Basic Workflow Tips for Building a PedalPCB - this is a good start!


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## Robert (Mar 10, 2020)

By no means "instructions", but the build docs are here:  http://www.pedalpcb.com/docs/Tommy.v1.pdf


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## ersa9000 (Mar 10, 2020)

Thank you very much for the link!!


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## ersa9000 (Mar 10, 2020)

Part one.. done


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## Chuck D. Bones (Mar 10, 2020)

Make sure you put the switch and pots on the back side of the board.  Been there, done that, bought the T-shirt.  ?

Matching the switch height to the pot height can be challenging.  Don't solder switch or pots until you know they are all properly aligned.

Is that an analog meter?  How retro!


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## Robert (Mar 10, 2020)

Chuck D. Bones said:


> Matching the switch height to the pot height can be challenging.  Don't solder switch or pots until you know they are all properly aligned.



Solder the pots, mount the switch in the enclosure (unsoldered), drop the PCB into the enclosure and fasten down the pots, then solder the switch.

Works every time.


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## Chuck D. Bones (Mar 10, 2020)

This presumes that the pots are as tall as the switch.  I had to do it in the opposite order on my Covert: switch first, then pots.  Even then, I had to put washers under the pots to space them up so they'ed reach the board.  Best move is to measure, test fit, then solder.


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## Robert (Mar 10, 2020)

Why did you have to install the switch first?    I'm trying to picture what could go wrong...  I don't recall ever having a height issue with a toggle switch and standard right-angle pin Alpha pots.

I built hundreds of Daydreams, aligning the toggle switch was never even a consideration.  It just fell right into place every time.

A 3PDT _footswitch_ is a different story, which is why the Paragon now uses a breakout board for them.


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## music6000 (Mar 11, 2020)

I know where Chuck is coming from, the Toggle switches vary in height from manufacturers.
The Small Bear type,  I always use 1 nut at the base of the thread ( The reason for this is your tightening against the nut, not the actual switch body).
No star washers & the PCB just fits neatly down on the Right Angle Pot Legs. You don't need Toggle star washers as the PCB is not not going to move once Pots & toggle are screwed to Pedal Enclosure.
I put the Pots & Toggles in the Enclosure & Double Check that Pot values are correct orientation.
The reason for this is I dont want the PCB or Pots, Switches under Load when Soldered in place.

My 2 cents + - 0 !


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## Robert (Mar 11, 2020)

I'm certainly not discouraging that you measure / test fit / double check...   I've just personally never done it, and never had an issue because of it.

I could definitely see where mounting everything to the PCB then shoving it in the enclosure and cranking down the hardware would put stress on the board, which is why I solder the switch last, once everything has aligned itself.

I know the 3PDT and 4PDT toggles have a taller body height compared to most SPDT and DPDTs, but even then, the length of the pot and switch lugs has always been more than enough to accommodate.


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## Chuck D. Bones (Mar 11, 2020)

Maybe I'm just A-R, but I don't like having 2mm of threaded switch bushing protruding above the surface of the front panel.  I like the switch bushing to be nearly flush with the nut.  Doing that pushes the switch back into the chassis.  I just examined my collection of DPDT toggle switches and found that they do not all have the same dimension from the top to bottom surfaces or the same bushing length.

We all have our way of doing things and they're all valid.


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## Robert (Mar 11, 2020)

Ahh, that makes sense if you're trying to mount it flush.  I've done that with footswitches but never really bothered with toggles.

I wasn't disagreeing, was just curious to know if I was missing something that might need to be taken into consideration on future designs.


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## ersa9000 (Mar 11, 2020)

Chuck D. Bones said:


> Make sure you put the switch and pots on the back side of the board.  Been there, done that, bought the T-shirt.  ?
> 
> Matching the switch height to the pot height can be challenging.  Don't solder switch or pots until you know they are all properly aligned.
> 
> Is that an analog meter?  How retro!


Haha, yes ..This analog meter is a kind of talisman, in east german language „Schätz-Eisen“ .


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## ersa9000 (Mar 11, 2020)

Pcbs finished.. now the boxes..?


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## ersa9000 (Mar 15, 2020)

Mica 100p caps soldered..All cables finished.. ready to mount.. the space between pcb and switch is reserved for 9V battery...


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## HamishR (Mar 16, 2020)

Sehr schön! I like the gay pride wiring of the switches.  No, I really do!

I wish those mini-toggles with the short toggle were easier to find.  And like Chuck I wish it was easier to mount them flush with the enclosure.  Of course these are all first world "problems".


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## ersa9000 (Mar 17, 2020)

Finished both today... identical build... identical sound... great sound...thanx to all here for your support..













btw. the rainbow is a nice thing for hetero guys too..?


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## ersa9000 (Mar 17, 2020)

Photo 1 of the last posting shows: I’ve used little cable connections for the pots, so there where no problems with the mini toggle..and I had the freedom for the arrangement of the pots... a little trick to prevent this cables was this..


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