# Parentheses Fuzz: Distortion switch kills the signal.



## clipped_diode

*Click here to see the "completed" build outside of an enclosure*.

I've only done three kits before sourcing parts for this PCB, so I'm still relatively new to DIY pedals. I expected some trouble from the finished pedal because throughout the build several pads popped off and the copper plate is slightly exposed in a few spots. (Ultimately, I don't think the pads caused a problem because in each instance at least one side still had a pad.)

I am using an audio signal probe to diagnose. This post is probably a little premature because I'm still trying to understand the schematic, but here's what I know right now.

True bypass works.
The effect seems to work. I get a heavy distortion (almost 8-bit velcro ) and an octave sound. I'm not sure how much this pedal is meant to clean up but even with distortion all the way off it is still heavily distorted. EDIT: Playing with a guitar it is clear that this is way more "gated" sounding than it should be. I have to strum HARD for a short spike of sound that quickly falls off. (Like velcro settings on Fuzz Factory or similar.)
Turning the octave knob down lowers the total output volume.
If I switch the octave switch, the output dies.
If I switch the boost switch, the output dies.
I don't have LEDs installed so it's not clear if the sound dies when I engage or disengage the switches. I assume the octave OFF kills the sound because I can hear an octave otherwise. It's not clear to me if the boost is ON or OFF however.

EDIT: Updated title to reflect current issue. It's the distortion switch that kills the signal. Octave switch does nothing. I got the boost side working after replacing a part.


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## Chuck D. Bones

The pedal is definitely not working the way it is supposed to work.  I can see you used top-shelf parts.
Solder side looks pretty sketchy.  Way too much solder on the pads.  Lotta flux residue.  Some of the solder joints look cold.  Not enough resolution in the photos to tell if there are any shorts, but I'll wager there are some.  You're gonna have to clean all of that up before we can proceed with the troubleshooting.  Use a solder sucker or solder wick to remove the excess solder.  Reflow any joints that are not shiny.  Keep the heat to a minimum on the germanium diodes; don't reflow those solder joints. Wash & scrub the board with IPA.  Do a thorough visual inspection.  Repeat as necessary.  When it all looks good, power it up and see if it works.  If you're still having trouble, post some new pix and we'll dig into it with you.


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## clipped_diode

*I added two photos to the bottom of the album*. I used a solder sucker and removed as much solder as I could from every contact on the solder side. If the contact was flat I simply reflowed the contact. I did actually reflow the GE diodes before realizing it, but I was quick. I applied 91% isopropyl alcohol about 6 times and wiped as best as I could. Unfortunately the sharp solder joints make it difficult to really clear a lot of it with a cloth.

I powered it up and now it's not working at all except when bypassed. If I engage the boost switch even the bypassed signal dies. I'm going to try to test a few spots with the audio signal probe tomorrow.


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## Chuck D. Bones

Try a toothbrush for cleaning. 

If engaging the boost kills the bypass, then maybe the bypass stomp switch has a problem.  The boost is the last functional block in the signal chain and the bypass switch should completely disconnect it from the output jack when in bypass mode.  The wiring looks correct in the photos, and as far as I can tell, the switches are oriented properly.  Maybe a solder bridge between the switch & board?  Or a tiny whisker of trimmed wire shorting something out? 

I'd just start at the input end with the audio probe and work your way downstream 'til the signal drops out.  You may not get past the bypass switch.


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## clipped_diode

Thanks. I started with what I believe is the boost circuit (*layout and schematic*). I assume the signal runs from BOOST_IN to _BOOST_OUT here.

Engaging the switch kills the audio signal to the main output. Moving to the switch, I can hear the signal leave the switch and move through R28, R29, and C22. I can hear all three legs of Q6 (leg 1 is boosted).

I can't hear anything at C23 or the boost pot. The C23 anode contact is one of the ones that popped out (see below for a "before" photo). I suppose I could wire it directly from part to part. I added a bit of solder to the contact and it hasn't helped. (Briefly, this post said the added solder fixed the issue but that was incorrect.) Bridging the connection with a spare 10u capacitor works perfectly so I think I'll just solder it in.





It's unclear to me from the layout and schematic where the signal goes next.


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## Chuck D. Bones

If you broke a trace or a pad, you have to jumper over the broken area and then test it for continuity with a DMM.  Always jumper from pad to pad, don't try to solder to a trace.  Install a jumper from C23+ to Q6-1 on the solder side.  Use solid wire, like a trimmed resistor lead.


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## clipped_diode

Here's how it turned out with a new 10u. Negative side is in the pad and I connected the positive side to Q6-1. I did this before seeing your post or else I probably would have done it on the solder side





It works! Not only at the trim pot, but now I am getting a signal from the main output that is responsive to the boost pot setting. Switching the distortion switch on kills the signal. Switching the octave switch does nothing.

Where do I go next? I think the distortion side?

Also, can anyone tell me why it looks like the distortion LED path runs through R100 and into the IC? Is this just sending power?


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## clipped_diode

I've confirmed that the audio signal is moving through every component on the distortion circuit properly — at least the top part of the schematic. The remaining problems must be in the octave circuit.


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## Chuck D. Bones

Take a look at the other posts in this forum re: Parentheses.  A few people have had problems with the octave circuit.  Check the transistor voltages on the octave circuit and compare them with the results in the other posts.


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## clipped_diode

The (first) problem is at the IC. I hear the signal enter at pin 3 per the schematic but all other pins are silent. How can I test if the IC is functional or not?


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## DGWVI

Where did you source the 308?


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## clipped_diode

*Amazon*.


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## DGWVI

I've used a lot of DIP 308s. National, Motorola, ST... They all had an extra dimple right next to pin 1. I think you may have a fake.
If you have any other single opamps, give those a try


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## DGWVI

Here are some of my confirmed fakes. Also got them from Amazon


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## clipped_diode

Thanks, that's helpful. I just replaced it with an LM 308N I pulled from a BYOC Rat clone (that works) and it is behaving in exactly the same way. I reflowed all of the joints of the socket but I'm still not having any luck. Is there a way to test if the IC is receiving power? Based on the schematic, VCC hooks up to pin 7.

I don't have the LED installed — it looks like there is a trace running from pin 7 into R100 and into the LED above the switch. Would that do it?

EDIT: Yes, after floating an LED there I am getting a signal now (though not from the fake IC). Totally missed that detail on the schematic.


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## clipped_diode

Here's an update. I created a couple of wire bridges from contacts between C11 and the IC that were not holding up well on their own. Now the signal flows through — and with that, the signal now reaches the output. All switches are working and nothing kills the signal.

*However, the sound of the distortion is extremely gated* (as I described before), like *a velcro-type fuzz*. It sounds like this both at pin 6 of the IC (output) and the main output. What could be causing this kind of fuzz? Is it possible it's a power issue? I am using a standard 9v adapter. I haven't necessarily been testing each path to ground in the schematic.

Also, the octave sounds more like a ring mod. I'm not sure if this is just the nature of an analog octave and it's hard to hear clearly because of the above issue with the distortion.


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## Nostradoomus

What voltages are you getting on the transistor and IC of the Rat portion of the circuit? I have built a voltage sag box and run a Rat through it and it definitely goes velcro, sounds like it’s not getting enough juice!


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## clipped_diode

Pin 7 is reading .9 - 1 m V DC.

Not sure I can accurately measure voltages without it being in an enclosure. I don't have one drilled yet, but if it's necessary maybe that's my next step.


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## DGWVI

Pin 7 should be getting the full voltage from your power supply. Looking at the pics, that solder joint looks pretty dull. Hit it with some fresh solder



clipped_diode said:


> Also, the octave sounds more like a ring mod. I'm not sure if this is just the nature of an analog octave and it's hard to hear clearly because of the above issue with the distortion.



That's the nature of the Green Ringer circuit. Definitely a far cry from a clean octave sound. Gets flutey sounding with your neck pickup and tone rolled off


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## Nostradoomus

You can definitely check it out of the enclosure, have you got a testing rig for proper grounding and such?

Pin 7 should be at full voltage, what are your other pins and FET reading?


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## clipped_diode

*Click here to see the "completed" build outside of an enclosure*.

I've only done three kits before sourcing parts for this PCB, so I'm still relatively new to DIY pedals. I expected some trouble from the finished pedal because throughout the build several pads popped off and the copper plate is slightly exposed in a few spots. (Ultimately, I don't think the pads caused a problem because in each instance at least one side still had a pad.)

I am using an audio signal probe to diagnose. This post is probably a little premature because I'm still trying to understand the schematic, but here's what I know right now.

True bypass works.
The effect seems to work. I get a heavy distortion (almost 8-bit velcro ) and an octave sound. I'm not sure how much this pedal is meant to clean up but even with distortion all the way off it is still heavily distorted. EDIT: Playing with a guitar it is clear that this is way more "gated" sounding than it should be. I have to strum HARD for a short spike of sound that quickly falls off. (Like velcro settings on Fuzz Factory or similar.)
Turning the octave knob down lowers the total output volume.
If I switch the octave switch, the output dies.
If I switch the boost switch, the output dies.
I don't have LEDs installed so it's not clear if the sound dies when I engage or disengage the switches. I assume the octave OFF kills the sound because I can hear an octave otherwise. It's not clear to me if the boost is ON or OFF however.

EDIT: Updated title to reflect current issue. It's the distortion switch that kills the signal. Octave switch does nothing. I got the boost side working after replacing a part.


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## clipped_diode

Thanks all. I am not sure what a testing rig would be, but I am getting consistent power readings now. Unfortunately the sound is still coming out of pin 6 like velcro and I'm not getting sound out of pins 2 which I believe should be producing sound. Here are my notes on power and sound.


IC1*PIN**POWER**SOUND*PIN 18.46 VGated fuzz, about as loud as bypass signalPIN 24.10 VNonePIN 34.18 VCleanPIN 40.00 VNonePIN 50.50 mVVery quiet, distortedPIN 68.64 VGated fuzz, extremely loudPIN 79.21 VNonePIN 89.02 VGated fuzz, extremely loud

Q5*LEG**POWER**SOUND*LEG 19.20 VNoneLEG 21.20 VGated fuzz, loudLEG 30.80 V (but multimeter flashes numbers erratically)Gated fuzz, loud
For reference, below is the part of the schematic relevant to the IC and *here is a link* to the full schematic.








Also note that I directly wired pin 2 to C11 and then C11 to pin 6 because of a broken pad on C11 (see photos below). Let me know if you think I misread the schematic here.


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## Nostradoomus

I would desolder your PF5102 and put a socket in there, this circuit is pretty picky as the output buffer can overload pretty easily...I had to try a few before it sounded good...actually ended up with a 2n5458 in there like Proco does. Your opamp  voltages aren’t bad...dunno why Pin 5 has any voltage, it’s not connected to anything.


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## clipped_diode

Nostradoomus said:


> I would desolder your PF5102 and put a socket in there, this circuit is pretty picky as the output buffer can overload pretty easily...I had to try a few before it sounded good...actually ended up with a 2n5458 in there like Proco does. Your opamp  voltages aren’t bad...dunno why Pin 5 has any voltage, it’s not connected to anything.



Thanks. I can try swapping out the PF5102 and using a socket in the coming days. But I think the issue is further upstream in the schematic, right? Because the sound is leaving the IC with a heavily gated sound. Is that how it sounds coming out of your IC?

Regarding pin 5 voltage, the reading is actually mV, so it's actually an incredibly low reading. I edited my post to update it.


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## Nostradoomus

Couple things to check just for fun...R22 and R21 are the correct value? 560r and 47r?

30pf cap between Pin 1-8 correct value?

 Each end of the 1M resistor at R6 measuring around half of the supply voltage?

Distortion pot the correct value?


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## clipped_diode

Nostradoomus said:


> Couple things to check just for fun...R22 and R21 are the correct value? 560r and 47r?



Yes — these are the correct values, and each end measures around 4.10 V.



Nostradoomus said:


> 30pf cap between Pin 1-8 correct value?



Yes it is a 30pf cap I ordered from Pedal Parts Plus. Small Bear had none in stock. It was the only PCB component I ordered from Pedal Parts Plus. Unfortunately I didn't test it before installing it and I can't get a reading on it mounted to the PCB.

I am may just directly wire this connection just to eliminate another potential point of failure.



Nostradoomus said:


> Each end of the 1M resistor at R6 measuring around half of the supply voltage?



The top measures 4.18 V and the bottom is 4.60 V.



Nostradoomus said:


> Distortion pot the correct value?



Yes — Alpha A 100K.


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## Nostradoomus

Hmmm, the 30pf cap could be your issue. It’s pretty integral to the gain bandwidth of the chip. You can check it by desoldering one leg.

The LM308 is not a stable chip by any means, the Rats sound came partly by the designer putting a 47r resistor in place when he meant to put 470r, overloading the op amp. You could try upping the value of 47r to 100r to try and tame it a bit.


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## clipped_diode

Nostradoomus said:


> Hmmm, the 30pf cap could be your issue. It’s pretty integral to the gain bandwidth of the chip. You can check it by desoldering one leg.
> 
> The LM308 is not a stable chip by any means, the Rats sound came partly by the designer putting a 47r resistor in place when he meant to put 470r, overloading the op amp. You could try upping the value of 47r to 100r to try and tame it a bit.



Thanks. I clipped one leg of the 30pf cap and still wasn't getting a reading. So I cut the other leg out and tested it off the PCB. No reading. Tested some polarized caps I have lying around and the multimeter is working fine. I'll order a new 30pf cap and hopefully that solves the issue. 

Took forever to arrive the first time so I'll shop around.


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## Nostradoomus

Some meters have trouble reading caps at such small values, but I’m not sure which one you are using. I have one of those eBay transistor tester things that reads small caps pretty well.

Well now that you have the cap out have you got an LM741 by any chance? If you do swap the 308 out and see what it does. If not try putting the cap back in and upping the 47r.


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## clipped_diode

Nostradoomus said:


> Some meters have trouble reading caps at such small values, but I’m not sure which one you are using. I have one of those eBay transistor tester things that reads small caps pretty well.
> 
> Well now that you have the cap out have you got an LM741 by any chance? If you do swap the 308 out and see what it does. If not try putting the cap back in and upping the 47r.



I have *this AstroAI*. Unfortunately I don't have an LM741 on hand.


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## Nostradoomus

Hm well I think most DMMs are not super capable of doing 30pf but if you have a larger cap like 470pf measure it then measure both of them together and see if it adds up.

Did you leave enough leg to re-solder it back? I would try the 47r to 100r swap before you spend more money


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## DGWVI

Any standard single opamp will work in the circuit, if you have any lying around. 
Do the controls for the Rat have any bearing on the sound? 
And, just to be thorough, the octave is disengaged? It's a very gated circuit


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## Nostradoomus

If you have the compensation cap out yeah you can try some others. TL070 Or TL061 seem to be favourable but chuck anything in and see how it goes.


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## DGWVI

Nostradoomus said:


> If you have the compensation cap out yeah you can try some others. TL070 Or TL061 seem to be favourable but chuck anything in and see how it goes.


I've not any issues using other singles with or without the comp cap. Even the 308 runs fine without it (one half of my dual distortion+ uses the 308, and I've built an opamp Big Muff using on in the clipping stage)


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## Nostradoomus

Weird. My Rat goes directly to ass territory if I mess with it haha


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## DGWVI

I've had some rats go haywire (huge sag, and gating) with the Fairchild metal can versions, but the DIP versions don't seem to care


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## Nostradoomus

Mine are DIP versions too, who knows. This circuit was designed around exploiting the flaws in the LM308 so it’s not exactly stable hahah


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## clipped_diode

Following up here. I replaced the 30p capacitor. It did not change the sound at all. I am getting an intensely gated fuzz from pin 6 of the IC, and basically the same sound out of the output. The fuzz is so extreme that the octave makes no real audible difference, but just to be clear — yes, I am testing it with the octave off. This is not a gated-but-usable sound. It sounds like you're tuning an AM station between stations and getting flashes of silence (when it's under threshold) and flashes of blow-your-ears-out white noise that vaguely sounds like the main vocal melody of the song I'm in fact playing through the pedal.

The issue is happening at the IC before the audio signal leaves pin 6. The audio signal enters at pin 3 mostly clean (or octaved if that switch is on). But it leaves pin 6 a total mess. I have a hunch that the issue is with the power. I don't understand how the power is coming in as "VCC" on the schematic, but on the actual PCB the power traces multiple components sometimes before hitting my target component. That means there is an opportunity for error. But I'm not seeing that clearly depicted on the schematic. How do I check every point of power before it hits the IC? And how do I check all of these lines that branch off and run through resistors/caps and then to ground?

The only ICs I have are ones that are in working pedals I've built. I have a BYOC Rat clone that has the LM308N I have been using. I have a BYOC Klon clone with two TL072s and a 7660SCPA. I have an Aion Lovepedal clone with an NE5532P. A replacement LM308N will be here in a few days.

Things I will try now:

1. Directly wire the IC to the 30p cap.

2. Replace R22 with a 100R resistor. I'm skeptical this will solve the issue because the gate is really intense (absolute silence) and the fuzz, when it's past the threshold, is totally blown out. But it's easy enough to try.


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## Chuck D. Bones

IC1-6 is not supposed to be at 8.64V.  Pins 2, 3 & 6 should all be near 4.5V and more-or-less equal.  Something is wrong in IC1's feedback circuit.  With power off, SW1 in the middle position and IC1 out of the socket, measure resistance from pin 2 to ground.  The reading should start low and climb as C13 & C14 are charged up by the meter.  Should get to 100K or higher, depending on the meter and the leakage in C13 & C14.  Also, make sure C13 & C14 are oriented correctly.


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## clipped_diode

Chuck D. Bones said:


> IC1-6 is not supposed to be at 8.64V.  Pins 2, 3 & 6 should all be near 4.5V and more-or-less equal.  Something is wrong in IC1's feedback circuit.  With power off, SW1 in the middle position and IC1 out of the socket, measure resistance from pin 2 to ground.  The reading should start low and climb as C13 & C14 are charged up by the meter.  Should get to 100K or higher, depending on the meter and the leakage in C13 & C14.  Also, make sure C13 & C14 are oriented correctly.



Thanks. Measuring resistance with the red probe at pin 2 and the black probe at pin 4 I don't get any resistance reading. I also tried the black probe on the enclosure and got the same result. Does this indicate a problem with C13 or C14? They are both oriented correctly.


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## Chuck D. Bones

That's good.  The resistance is off the scale, as it should be.  See if any of the other pins on IC1 read resistance to ground.  

Then measure the resistance between pis 2 & 6 with the distortion pot at zero, noon & max.  Those measurements should be 0 Ohms, 15K and 100K, more-or-less.  

One more resistance measurement: pin 1 to pin 8.  Should be off the scale.


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## clipped_diode

*Click here to see the "completed" build outside of an enclosure*.

I've only done three kits before sourcing parts for this PCB, so I'm still relatively new to DIY pedals. I expected some trouble from the finished pedal because throughout the build several pads popped off and the copper plate is slightly exposed in a few spots. (Ultimately, I don't think the pads caused a problem because in each instance at least one side still had a pad.)

I am using an audio signal probe to diagnose. This post is probably a little premature because I'm still trying to understand the schematic, but here's what I know right now.

True bypass works.
The effect seems to work. I get a heavy distortion (almost 8-bit velcro ) and an octave sound. I'm not sure how much this pedal is meant to clean up but even with distortion all the way off it is still heavily distorted. EDIT: Playing with a guitar it is clear that this is way more "gated" sounding than it should be. I have to strum HARD for a short spike of sound that quickly falls off. (Like velcro settings on Fuzz Factory or similar.)
Turning the octave knob down lowers the total output volume.
If I switch the octave switch, the output dies.
If I switch the boost switch, the output dies.
I don't have LEDs installed so it's not clear if the sound dies when I engage or disengage the switches. I assume the octave OFF kills the sound because I can hear an octave otherwise. It's not clear to me if the boost is ON or OFF however.

EDIT: Updated title to reflect current issue. It's the distortion switch that kills the signal. Octave switch does nothing. I got the boost side working after replacing a part.


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## clipped_diode

Chuck D. Bones said:


> That's good.  The resistance is off the scale, as it should be.  See if any of the other pins on IC1 read resistance to ground.



Pin 1: No reading
Pin 2: No reading
Pin 3: 1M
Pin 4: Ground
Pin 5: No reading
Pin 6: No reading
Pin 7: 3.7K and climbing fast
Pin 8: No reading



Chuck D. Bones said:


> Then measure the resistance between pis 2 & 6 with the distortion pot at zero, noon & max.  Those measurements should be 0 Ohms, 15K and 100K, more-or-less.



Pin 2 to 6 at zero: No reading
Pin 2 to 6 at noon: No reading 
Pin 2 to 6 at max: No reading

Does the pedal need power for this test?



Chuck D. Bones said:


> One more resistance measurement: pin 1 to pin 8.  Should be off the scale.



Pin 1 to 8: No reading


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## Chuck D. Bones

Power should be off for the entire test.  Your readings point to a problem with the DISTORTION pot.  It's either broken or one of the traces to it is broken.

We're almost there.

Measure from IC1 pin 2 to pin 3 of the DISTORTION pot.
Measure from IC1 pin 6 to pin 1 of the DISTORTION pot.
Measure from pin 1 to pin 3 on the DISTORTION pot.

Just to be clear, pin 1 on the DISTORTION pot has a square pad.

At least one of those measurements will read off the scale.


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## clipped_diode

Chuck D. Bones said:


> Measure from IC1 pin 2 to pin 3 of the DISTORTION pot.



No reading.



Chuck D. Bones said:


> Measure from IC1 pin 6 to pin 1 of the DISTORTION pot.



0.2R



Chuck D. Bones said:


> Measure from pin 1 to pin 3 on the DISTORTION pot.



92 K cranked.


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## Chuck D. Bones

Are you measuring on the pot or on the circuit board pads where the wires to the pot are soldered?  Time for some visual inspection.  Look for a bad or missing solder joint on pin 3 of the DISTORTION pot (both ends of the purple wire) or a cracked trace.  Look on both sides of the board.  Did you happen to remove and replace C15?


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## clipped_diode

Chuck D. Bones said:


> Are you measuring on the pot or on the circuit board pads where the wires to the pot are soldered?  Time for some visual inspection.  Look for a bad or missing solder joint on pin 3 of the DISTORTION pot (both ends of the purple wire) or a cracked trace.  Look on both sides of the board.  Did you happen to remove and replace C15?



Those measurements are at the PCB joints for the respective pot lugs. I get the same readings if I test at the actual lugs.

Here's what the area looks like (super high res). The distortion pot is at the top-middle. I can try reflowing again.



https://imgur.com/gk8ivH2




https://imgur.com/1AXFasg


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## Chuck D. Bones

Does your meter auto-range?  You should be getting 100K when you measure from pin 1 to pin 3 right at the pot.  If it reads off-scale there, then either the meter is on the wrong resistance range or that pot is toast.


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## clipped_diode

Chuck D. Bones said:


> Does your meter auto-range?  You should be getting 100K when you measure from pin 1 to pin 3 right at the pot.  If it reads off-scale there, then either the meter is on the wrong resistance range or that pot is toast.



I was wrong. From lug 1 to lug 3 it's 92+K when the pot is cranked. It's responsive to turns of the pot. I measured from the IC before. The meter does auto range.


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## Nostradoomus




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## clipped_diode

Should I be hearing audio out of more IC pins? How come I can't hear it leaving pin 2 and going to the pot? I do hear it at lug 1 and 2 of the pot, it's just completely gated and blown out — even at lug 2, which I think should be relatively clean.


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## Chuck D. Bones

When it's working right, which it isn't right now, you should hear the same thing on pins 2 & 3.  Pin 6 should be louder and clean with low DISTORTION settings, getting dirty at higher DISTORTION settings.  Probing pins 1 & 8 aren't that useful.  There will be signal on both of them, with pin 8 being louder.  There is a break somewhere between IC1-2 and DISTORTION pin 3.  Measure resistance from IC1-2 to the pad for DISTORTION pin 3.  Then from the pad for DISTORTION pin 3 to the actual pot pin 3.  One of those measurements will be high resistance, the break is somewhere between those two points.  Inspect, reflow, and retest with the meter until it's low resistance from the IC to the pot.  

What's that white wire doing on IC1-2?


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## clipped_diode

Chuck D. Bones said:


> When it's working right, which it isn't right now, you should hear the same thing on pins 2 & 3.  Pin 6 should be louder and clean with low DISTORTION settings, getting dirty at higher DISTORTION settings.  Probing pins 1 & 8 aren't that useful.  There will be signal on both of them, with pin 8 being louder.
> 
> What's that white wire doing on IC1-2?



*Here are details* of what I am hearing out of IC1. The white wires represent my attempts at making sure the connection from *pin 2 > C11 > pin 6* highlighted below is made. One of the pads looked broken to me, so I directly wired it. The post linked at the beginning of this paragraph has photos of the wiring. Did I screw it up?








Chuck D. Bones said:


> There is a break somewhere between IC1-2 and DISTORTION pin 3.  Measure resistance from IC1-2 to the pad for DISTORTION pin 3. Then from the pad for DISTORTION pin 3 to the actual pot pin 3.  One of those measurements will be high resistance, the break is somewhere between those two points.  Inspect, reflow, and retest with the meter until it's low resistance from the IC to the pot.



IC1-2 to DIST 3 pad: No reading
DIST 3 pad to DIST 3 lug: 0.1 R.


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## Chuck D. Bones

It's important that any wire connected to pin 2 is short as possible and lays down on the board so it doesn't act like an antenna.  This is a long thread so please forgive me if I go back over something that was already discussed.  Typical trace repairs are done with 28 or 30 AWG solid wire and have the shortest span possible.  It would appear that your pin 2 trace repair did not repair all of the broken paths because the connection to the DISTORTION pot is not there.  I use 30AWG wire-wrap wire for tiny jumpers and trace repair.  Get some smaller solid wire and run a wire from IC1-2 to C11 and to the DISTORTION pot pad 3.  Run the wires on the solder side of the board and keep them short.  After you've done that, verify that IC1-2 connects to all of these places:
DISTORTION pad 3
R21
R22
C11


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## clipped_diode

Chuck D. Bones said:


> It's important that any wire connected to pin 2 is short as possible and lays down on the board so it doesn't act like an antenna.  This is a long thread so please forgive me if I go back over something that was already discussed.  Typical trace repairs are done with 28 or 30 AWG solid wire and have the shortest span possible.  It would appear that your pin 2 trace repair did not repair all of the broken paths because the connection to the DISTORTION pot is not there.  I use 30AWG wire-wrap wire for tiny jumpers and trace repair.  Get some smaller solid wire and run a wire from IC1-2 to C11 and to the DISTORTION pot pad 3.  Run the wires on the solder side of the board and keep them short.  After you've done that, verify that IC1-2 connects to all of these places:
> DISTORTION pad 3
> R21
> R22
> C11



Thanks so much for sticking with me. I did what you suggested and connected IC1-2 to DIST pad 3, and now I believe the pedal is functioning as it should. I don't know why I didn't consider wiring the pot in just like I did the C11 capacitor. I used 24 AWG wire but I may replace it before boxing it up.

Thanks again to everyone that helped! Cool sounding pedal.


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## Chuck D. Bones

Do us a solid and look in the General Questions forum for the topic "Parentheses - a show of hands."  Please vote what happened to you, I'm keeping score.


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