# Lone King Overdrive



## Pedal2222

I finished my lone king overdrive pedal project today. I used a Hammond 1590B enclosure, not a 125B. It was annoying, but it works ...


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## Pedal2222




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## BuddytheReow

Damn! Super clean. Great lighting!


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## Pedal2222

Thanks!


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## spi

Nice!  Is that enclosure coating called "black sand"?


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## Jovi Bon Kenobi

Flippin beautiful!


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## Pedal2222

spi said:


> Nice!  Is that enclosure coating called "black sand"?


No, it's a standard black powder coated hammond 1590B enclosure.


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## Pedal2222

Jovi Bon Kenobi said:


> Flippin beautiful!


Thank you!


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## Barry

Looks awesome!


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## Cucurbitam0schata

holy smokes - nice clean work!


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## dmnCrawler

That looks really great. Love how clean and tidy it is. Did you solder the grounds on the jacks together?


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## TheSin

Killer work! How’s it sound? Been thinking about building me one.


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## Pedal2222

dmnCrawler said:


> That looks really great. Love how clean and tidy it is. Did you solder the grounds on the jacks together?


Thanks! Yes, I soldered them together with one ground wire connected to the board.


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## Dan0h

Super clean!


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## Pedal2222

TheSin said:


> Killer work! How’s it sound? Been thinking about building me one.


Thank you! It seems to sound like the A Side of my kingtone duallist, thats my first impression. I will make a A/B test later. The reason to build this project was to have the extra body control and the edge setting.


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## Pedal2222

Dan0h said:


> Super clean!


Thanks!


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## Pedal2222

Barry said:


> Looks awesome!


Thanks


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## Pedal2222

Cucurbitam0schata said:


> holy smokes - nice clean work!


Thanks!


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## cooder

Sweet, perfect and clean as a whistle! Would love to see a schematic of this...


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## Pedal2222

cooder said:


> Sweet, perfect and clean as a whistle! Would love to see a schematic of this...


Thanks!


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## HamishR

Damn! Now that's how it's done!


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## TheSin

What did you use for the W25k and C150k pots? Thanks.


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## K Pedals

???
That’s immaculate man!!!
Awesome work!!!


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## Travis

Nice work men!!

Can I replace the C150K with a switch for fat sound!

Thanks!!


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## Pedal2222

TheSin said:


> What did you use for the W25k and C150k pots? Thanks.


I used alpha potentiometers (pcb mount). These pots have 20% tolerance. I used a W20K (mesured  22,8 K), thats close enough. The C150K pot was a standard alpha pot, I modified it with wire for PCB mounting.


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## Pedal2222

Travis said:


> Nice work men!!
> 
> Can I replace the C150K with a switch for fat sound!
> 
> Thanks!!


Thank you! Yes, but the fat setting is around 12 o'clock with the C-150K pot. You have to reduce the resistance for that. At 12 o'clock you have already 85% of the total resistance (rev log).


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## Pedal2222

HamishR said:


> Damn! Now that's how it's done!


Thanks


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## Pedal2222

K Pedals said:


> ???
> That’s immaculate man!!!
> Awesome work!!!


Thank you!


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## Chuck D. Bones

What they said!  Very clean work.


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## bschobs

Very nice, where did you get those resistors?


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## Chas Grant

Super clean!!! Looks Great!


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## Pedal2222

bschobs said:


> Very nice, where did you get those resistors?


Thanks, I got them from a local dealer here in germany. These are vishay dale resistors (cmf-55).


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## Pedal2222

Chas Grant said:


> Super clean!!! Looks Great!


Thanks!


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## giovanni

Very nice! I have a couple 1590B that I would like to use for some project. Gotta find the right size board.


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## sdeyoung

I'm building this pedal now. Have a question about what is soldered to A-K. Also the 220n caps, do they have to by polarized?


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## Barry

A-K is anode kathode of your LED, I would stay with the tantalum caps spec'd


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## Pedal2222

sdeyoung said:


> I'm building this pedal now. Have a question about what is soldered to A-K. Also the 220n caps, do they have to by polarized?


There is no need to use polarizied caps 220n. I've used wima film caps 220n in the tone stack. In my opinion the better choise in this position.


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## sdeyoung

Pedal2222 said:


> There is no need to use polarizied caps 220n. I've used wima film caps 220n in the tone stack. In my opinion the better choise in this position.


Awesome! Thanks for the info!


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## sdeyoung

Barry said:


> A-K is anode kathode of your LED, I would stay with the tantalum caps spec'd


Thank you!


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## sdeyoung

I got everything finished last night. Unfortunately I'm not getting any sound. LED comes on, works while in bypass mode but as soon as pedal is engaged I get nothing. Super bummed about this since I spent the weekend soldering and waited over a month for all my parts to come in. I'll post some pics tonight but does anyone have anything to suggest that I could try?


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## Pedal2222

sdeyoung said:


> I got everything finished last night. Unfortunately I'm not getting any sound. LED comes on, works while in bypass mode but as soon as pedal is engaged I get nothing. Super bummed about this since I spent the weekend soldering and waited over a month for all my parts to come in. I'll post some pics tonight but does anyone have anything to suggest that I could try?


It's hard to tell without seeing the pics...


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## sdeyoung

Pedal2222 said:


> It's hard to tell without seeing the pics...


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## sdeyoung

I’m getting voltage on IC, about 9V each pin. I’m getting a reading on each pot except the volume one


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## Pedal2222

I can't find any fault. Try another Opamp first and than check all solder connections on the PCB back side. If none of the components are damaged, I'll bet there is an unwanted ground connection on the PCB.

Does the led socket have contact with the pcb back side (solder joints)?


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## music6000

You need to reflow the solder on your joints.
You should see solder on the top side around pad & components ie Resistors, Caps, Diodes ect....
Here is a Close up of some of your resistors, no Solder penetration!
Have a look at Pedal222's  Build on page 1


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## sdeyoung

Pedal2222 said:


> I can't find any fault. Try another Opamp first and than check all solder connections on the PCB back side. If none of the components are damaged, I'll bet there is an unwanted ground connection on the PCB.
> 
> Does the led socket have contact with the pcb back side (solder joints)?


I did try another Op-amp this morning. I fixed up some of the solder joints last night but I'm still getting nothing. The LED does light up so I'm assuming everything is ok there. I'm not getting any voltage around the volume pot so I'm assuming I need to reflow the solder joints as mentioned.


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## sdeyoung

music6000 said:


> You need to reflow the solder on your joints.
> You should see solder on the top side around pad & components ie Resistors, Caps, Diodes ect....
> Here is a Close up of some of your resistors, no Solder penetration!
> Have a look at Pedal222's  Build on page 1
> 
> View attachment 9134


Thanks! I did fix some of them up last night. I'll give it another go tonight and see if this helps.


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## sdeyoung

So the more I think about this. I'm leaning towards ordering another board and start from scratch. I feel that maybe I may of damaged the board due to not having the proper tip on my soldering iron. I'm wondering if I may of messed up the traces? The more I look at yours Pedal2222 the more I want to redo it lol. What are you thoughts on the damage of the board? I would obviously purchase a new soldering iron and all new parts as well.


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## music6000

sdeyoung said:


> So the more I think about this. I'm leaning towards ordering another board and start from scratch. I feel that maybe I may of damaged the board due to not having the proper tip on my soldering iron. I'm wondering if I may of messed up the traces? The more I look at yours Pedal2222 the more I want to redo it lol. What are you thoughts on the damage of the board? I would obviously purchase a new soldering iron and all new parts as well.


Can you do a Continuity check on the matching Colours , G is Ground points.
If you have no Continuity, You can put a jumper between those 2 pads!


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## sdeyoung

music6000 said:


> Can you do a Continuity check on the matching Colours , G is Ground points.
> If you have no Continuity, You can put a jumper between those 2 pads!
> View attachment 9143


Sure can!


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## sdeyoung

music6000 said:


> Can you do a Continuity check on the matching Colours , G is Ground points.
> If you have no Continuity, You can put a jumper between those 2 pads!
> View attachment 9143


I have continuity on all of the matching colors. But still zero voltage getting to volume pot


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## music6000

sdeyoung said:


> I have continuity on all of the matching colors. But still zero voltage getting to volume pot


Test for Continuity using matching colours, C6 Pads may be opposite.
If no continuity as drawn, swap C6 Red & Blue & Test! :


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## sdeyoung

music6000 said:


> Test for Continuity using matching colours, C6 Pads may be opposite.
> If no continuity as drawn, swap C6 Red & Blue & Test! :


I have continuity on all pads. The only difference is I had continuity on the C6 cap like this.


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## Pedal2222

sdeyoung said:


> So the more I think about this. I'm leaning towards ordering another board and start from scratch. I feel that maybe I may of damaged the board due to not having the proper tip on my soldering iron. I'm wondering if I may of messed up the traces? The more I look at yours Pedal2222 the more I want to redo it lol. What are you thoughts on the damage of the board? I would obviously purchase a new soldering iron and all new parts as well.


I don't think you have damaged traces, rather cold solder joints or unwanted ground connections. It is possible to repair damaged tracks with jumpers as music6000 says. But there is no need to re-solder the joints with this type of circuit board. The holes are contacted to both sides anyway. The look is a different matter..


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## music6000

sdeyoung said:


> I have continuity on all pads. The only difference is I had continuity on the C6 cap like this.


Continuity Test so far is Good, Can you give us the Voltage on all 8 pins of the Op Amp
1........8  
2........7
3........6
4........5


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## sdeyoung

Pedal2222 said:


> I don't think you have damaged traces, rather cold solder joints or unwanted ground connections. It is possible to repair damaged tracks with jumpers as music6000 says. But there is no need to re-solder the joints with this type of circuit board. The holes are contacted to both sides anyway. The look is a different matter..


Yeah I'm just being picky at this point. Once it's in the enclosure I won't see the mess lol.


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## sdeyoung

music6000 said:


> Continuity Test so far is Good, Can you give us the Voltage on all 8 pins of the Op Amp
> 1........8
> 2........7
> 3........6
> 4........5


I sure can once I get home. I did measure them before and I seem to remember that all pins were getting around 9V. Mind you there was a little variance on each like 9.33V, 9.45. something of that nature. 

What should they be reading?


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## music6000

I sure can once I get home. I did measure them before and I seem to remember that all pins were getting around 9V. Mind you there was a little variance on each like 9.33V, 9.45. something of that nature.


sdeyoung said:


> What should they be reading?


Not what your listing, Set DMM to Volts - DC, Black probe to Ground, Red probe to each pin & write down voltage.
If 4 is not 0 you definately have a problem!


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## sdeyoung

Right, I did have it set to Volts DC. I'll check them again. Maybe that's my problem.


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## sdeyoung

music6000 said:


> I sure can once I get home. I did measure them before and I seem to remember that all pins were getting around 9V. Mind you there was a little variance on each like 9.33V, 9.45. something of that nature.
> 
> Not what your listing, Set DMM to Volts - DC, Black probe to Ground, Red probe to each pin & write down voltage.
> If 4 is not 0 you definately have a problem!


So something IS messed up definitely! These are the readings I got. 

pin 1 - 8.77
pin 2 - 8.6
pin 3 - 8.52
pin 4 - 9
pin 5 - 8.5
pin 6 - 8.97
pin 7 - 8.99
pin 8 - 9.6


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## sdeyoung

Man oh man you helped me fix it music6000! It's now ALIVE!!!! So it was the socket for pin 4 that wasn't quite making a good connection. As soon as you said it needed to be 0 volts I started investigating. I fixed up the solder joint and bam it now works. The only thing I noticed is that it has a slight buzz when engaged. It's not in it's enclosure anymore so maybe I have a few cables to touch up after handling the thing with no enclosure.


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## sdeyoung

Thanks both Pedal2222 and music6000 for all of your help! And sorry for hijacking your thread Pedal2222.


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## music6000

sdeyoung said:


> Man oh man you helped me fix it music6000! It's now ALIVE!!!! So it was the socket for pin 4 that wasn't quite making a good connection. As soon as you said it needed to be 0 volts I started investigating. I fixed up the solder joint and bam it now works. The only thing I noticed is that it has a slight buzz when engaged. It's not in it's enclosure anymore so maybe I have a few cables to touch up after handling the thing with no enclosure.


Cool, Measure Voltage at pins 1 to 8 again, You should be getting voltages around 4.5v from 2 & 3.


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## sdeyoung

music6000 said:


> Cool, Measure Voltage at pins 1 to 8 again, You should be getting voltages around 4.5v from 2 & 3.


Yep I am! Got it back in the enclosure and its not buzzing anymore. This pedal really sounds amazing!


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## piapium

Dear dudes and dudettes how the hell am I gonna find w25k c150k pots? Anywhere to buy?


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## Pedal2222

piapium said:


> Dear dudes and dudettes how the hell am I gonna find w25k c150k pots? Anywhere to buy?


It will be difficult to find a w25k pot at all, especially for pcb mounting. Alpha (16 mm) offers a w20k (pcb mount vertical), but no c150k (standard solder lugs only). I had a bunch of w20k's, one mesured 22,8k, that was close enough to use. The c150k pot can be modified with wire for pcb mounting.


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## cbriere36

did you got the chance to reverse engineer the pcb? and draw a schematics?
do you have a picture of the traces on the pcb?


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## Chuck D. Bones

This thing is basically a TS.  W20K will work fine for the TONE pot.  For the BODY pot, C100K should be fine, otherwise use a C250K with a 390K resistor from pin 1 to pin 3.


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## Pedal2222

cbriere36 said:


> did you got the chance to reverse engineer the pcb? and draw a schematics?
> do you have a picture of the traces on the pcb?


Yes, I did it, but I can't post it here. I can send the schematic via email for personal use only (no distribution or publication).


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## JamieJ

This is the cleanest build I have ever seen. I know its an old thread but amazing work @Pedal2222 
I am just waiting for this PCB to come back in stock.


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## Pedal2222

JamieJ said:


> This is the cleanest build I have ever seen. I know its an old thread but amazing work @Pedal2222
> I am just waiting for this PCB to come back in stock.


Thank you!


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## wrempening

Hey guys, sorry to hijack this thread, but as it already turned into a debugging thread I thought it might be helpful to post here in case somebody else has struggles with this build.

In my case my problem is that I don't get as much volume and drive from my build. Volume goes barely over unity and I've already tried different ICs (RC4558P) and with one I get more drive. My other problem is that the tone knob cuts volume almost completely when rolled counter clockwise. I've already reflowed the pots and and the caps but nothing really changed. I will do the continuity and voltage checks @music6000 suggested. Something else I should check? I will upload some photos later on if that helps.

For reference, I bought the kit from the musikding, so here are the parts I used >> BOM


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## szukalski

wrempening said:


> Hey guys, sorry to hijack this thread, but as it already turned into a debugging thread I thought it might be helpful to post here in case somebody else has struggles with this build.
> 
> In my case my problem is that I don't get as much volume and drive from my build. Volume goes barely over unity and I've already tried different ICs (RC4558P) and with one I get more drive. My other problem is that the tone knob cuts volume almost completely when rolled counter clockwise. I've already reflowed the pots and and the caps but nothing really changed. I will do the continuity and voltage checks @music6000 suggested. Something else I should check? I will upload some photos later on if that helps.
> 
> For reference, I bought the kit from the musikding, so here are the parts I used >> BOM


Hey mate, get a post in the troubleshooting section with some pics and there will be people falling over to help


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## wrempening

szukalski said:


> Hey mate, get a post in the troubleshooting section with some pics and there will be people falling over to help


Thanks for the info man!


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## Markus Kersius

Pedal2222 said:


> View attachment 7907View attachment 7908View attachment 7909


I want to attempt this too.
Do you have any measurements made or a template and willing to share?
Thanks in advance!


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## Markus Kersius

Markus Kersius said:


> I want to attempt this too.
> Do you have any measurements made or a template and willing to share?
> Thanks in advance!


Attempted > Succeeded!!


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## Chuck D. Bones

Looking good!

Which diodes did you use?


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## Markus Kersius

Chuck D. Bones said:


> Looking good!
> 
> Which diodes did you use?


Found some ba282's luckily!
Not cheap though 😅
I understood from some posts here that they're quite essential in this circuit to sound like the originals.
I don't have a original soloist, but I do have a 2019 duellist, and the string singer side is practically dead on in sound with my lone king build.
Especially when set in "glass" mode.


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## swelchy

HOW IN THE WORLD DOES YOUR PCB LOOK SO CLEAN?


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## Markus Kersius

swelchy said:


> HOW IN THE WORLD DOES YOUR PCB LOOK SO CLEAN?


OCD 😅


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## MichaelW

Markus Kersius said:


> Found some ba282's luckily!
> Not cheap though 😅
> I understood from some posts here that they're quite essential in this circuit to sound like the originals.
> I don't have a original soloist, but I do have a 2019 duellist, and the string singer side is practically dead on in sound with my lone king build.
> Especially when set in "glass" mode.
> 
> View attachment 33255


I agree, this is one of those circuits that the diodes do make a difference. All the KingTone pedals I've built sound a little better with the 282's. Great build!! Zombie thread....hahah


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## szukalski

MichaelW said:


> I agree, this is one of those circuits that the diodes do make a difference. All the KingTone pedals I've built sound a little better with the 282's. Great build!! Zombie thread....hahah


I may have gone overboard and stocked up on a couple hundred BA282 in anticipation of pedals like this..


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## harmaes

BA282 are indeed required for this circuit and on 18v it's a real open sounding screamer with good headroom and better bass control. I prefer the switch to the top, gain/drive to 10oc, volume between 2oc and max, bass/treble to taste (more bass and less treble on the top switch setting).

I've also had good luck building a (Lovepedal) Tchula clone with a 6-point rotary switch one setting with BA282 as clipping diodes. This provides for a great clean boost with added highs and lows. I didn't like the BAT46 (or 41) of the original and experimented with 1n4148 and germaniums. In practice I use the BA282 most.


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