# I’ve built other pedals but can’t get any of my pedalpcb’s working



## Tha’ToneSeaQr (Jan 1, 2021)

Hey guys I’ve been building pedals successfully  and working with audio equipment for a decent amount of time now. But for some reason Ive always run into issues with my Pedalpcb builds. I have a couple thoughts as to causes but I’ll let you guys look over things and I’ll describe what is and is not working. I’ve photographed the Tweed Sound and the Vertex clone here 
Note-(_the photos you’ll notice the power supply isn’t wired on one and the off board wiring isn’t on another, This is because I’ve finished/boxed & unboxed/de-soldered these connections multiple times and decided to get some help & advice before I rework everything yet again to avoid damaging pcb)_

1)I do get led to come on
2)I’m getting voltages where they should be
3)plugged into an amp I get a LOT of noise! With some barely audible guitar signal underneath 
3) I used quality parts, switches, and authentic (smallbear) JFETs And Mosfets
4) I didn’t socket the transistors, perhaps the soldering process caused damage and this could be the issue?
5)I’ve triple checked the orientation of all bipolar components and solder connections.
**I like using the mono lumberg jacks for these builds but I often forget which lug is which. Anyone have a reference pic that clearly identifies tip/ring?? That would help!
_**Also the enclosures I have for these wont accommodate the typical large size 3 lug dc jack I’m used to using. I bought the slim profile 2 lug all metallic Lumberg type. However, I was told that these can be problematic. Could someone recommend a proper slim power supply jack for these builds? 

I APPRECIATE _ANY HELP!! And I can post different/better pictures if that’s helpful. I LOVE PedalPcb for the incredible amount of projects and the streamlined design. I honestly do know why I’ve struggled so much getting these to work!!


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## Mcknib (Jan 1, 2021)

In your pics you do have your IN jack incorrectly wired your tip is going to ground 

Easy enough to remember the tip solder lug is connected to where your jack tip makes contact, the long metal springy part, your ground solder lug connects directly to the sleeve


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## spi (Jan 1, 2021)

Tha’ToneSeaQr said:


> I like using the mono lumberg jacks for these builds but I often forget which lug is which. Anyone have a reference pic that clearly identifies tip/ring??


I think you've got these backward.  The side with the jack connector should be wired to the switch.  In one of the pictures it looks like one side is correct but the other is swapped.

You can use a multimeter to double check continuity between jack and the solder posts.


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## Tha’ToneSeaQr (Jan 1, 2021)

Mcknib said:


> In your pics you do have your IN jack incorrectly wired your tip is going to ground
> 
> Easy enough to remember the tip solder lug is connected to where your jack tip makes contact, the long metal springy part, your ground solder lug connects directly to the sleeve


Thanks!!


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## Tha’ToneSeaQr (Jan 1, 2021)

spi said:


> I think you've got these backward.  The side with the jack connector should be wired to the switch.  In one of the pictures it looks like one side is correct but the other is swapped.
> 
> You can use a multimeter to double check continuity between jack and the solder posts.


I don’t have a multimeter with that function. I should probably get one


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## Tha’ToneSeaQr (Jan 1, 2021)

spi said:


> I think you've got these backward.  The side with the jack connector should be wired to the switch.  In one of the pictures it looks like one side is correct but the other is swapped.
> 
> You can use a multimeter to double check continuity between jack and the solder posts.



Any thoughts about the metallic dc jack?


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## Mcknib (Jan 1, 2021)

With open style jacks if you're unsure of which solder lug is which, just put a jack into the socket and with stereo jacks as below you can trace it around to it's solder lug the Lumberg style you can actually see it, it's just a case of getting used to it.

Closed types as spi said you'd need to continuity check connections, most of the closed types have a slope on the plastic body indicating the ground connection


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## spi (Jan 1, 2021)

Tha’ToneSeaQr said:


> I don’t have a multimeter with that function. I should probably get one


Another way is check for continuity is 0 Ohms on the resistor setting.


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## Mcknib (Jan 1, 2021)

Tha’ToneSeaQr said:


> Any thoughts about the metallic dc jack?


They can short on the bare metal of the enclosure, the ones with plastic bodys should be fine obviously we can't see yours it may well be ok

I use the external nut type plastic DC jacks like these, saves on internal space






						Jacks for effects pedals, amps, guitars 404 The requested product does not exist.
					

Качественные гнезда для гитарных педалей эффектов, усилителей, примочек. Neutrik, Switchcraft, Amphenol, 1/4 jack, 6.35 джек. Купить гитарное гнездо




					pedal-parts.com


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## Coda (Jan 1, 2021)

Tha’ToneSeaQr said:


> Any thoughts about the metallic dc jack?



As long as it’s insulated from the enclosure...and is center-negative...


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## PJS (Jan 2, 2021)

Metallic DC jacks are likely to be OK outside the box but a problem once mounted in the box.  The outside connection usually shorts to the case, which is fine if the outside is ground.  For pedals though we almost always use centre ground and the outside is 9V.  Your input and output jacks will usually ground the case, so then the case will short 9v to ground. You will get no function from the pedal and may well blow the power supply.


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## music6000 (Jan 2, 2021)

If your + terminal on your Power Jack is making Continuity with the threaded base, It's the wrong type.
Here is your issue, Your Input Jack is wired Incorrectly, Swap wires
Is the Tone pot under the board insulated from touching the Board?
This is critical in any build under the PCB to use a Dust cap, Don't use Insulation tape!!!
Critical, Where did you get your J201's, Ebay are 99% Counterfits  :

Cheers music6000


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