# Delegate compressor - boneyard edition and Parasite Wah



## EGRENIER (Feb 28, 2021)

So I’ve completed my first 2 builds ever. A parasite Wah and a Delegate Compressor - Boneyard edition.

first on the Parasaite Wah: overall felt pretty simple.  Building the board went well, however the pedal expression enclosure is a nightmare. Missing screws, missing pad for the foot switch. Not ideal. Add to this that the included screws were longer than the drilled holes, I sheared 2 of them and had to resort to super glue.

I pushed through and ended up with a functional Wah-Wah. I probably still need to adjust the pot position to the gears a bit more to get it in the sweet spot, but so far so good.




Now for the delegate compressor. 

This one was a bit more difficult. First lesson learned was that LED have a long leg (pin) and a short leg for a reason. Second was that the short leg goes in the K hole on the board.  

Third lesson was that you can’t test this pedal before putting it it’s enclosure with the lights on. Yes I could have tape the white LED with the LDR for testing, but turning my lights off was faster and allowed me to see the white LED in action. 

Forth lesson was that reversing the Level and Sustain pots was not a good idea (mistake). First test of the pedal made me realize that something was wrong quickly, Turning the level just 1/100 of the pot, scared the bejesus out of my dog. So after a bit of thinking and a night rest, back to the iron to swap them to their correct positions. 






Now I’m somewhat happy with the results. However, while it works, I still believe there’s something wrong with it. The amount of volume boost is still very high. The difference between compressed vs clean is so big that it makes it an always on type of pedal. There also seems to be a fair delay before the pedal kicks on. If I stop playing and lower my guitar volume for a few seconds and just turn it back up, the first noise such as running my hands on the string are super loud. Then it seems to kick in and bring the volume and compression down.  If anyone have suggestion to were I can start to find the cause all are welcome.

So as a first builds both were enjoyable experiences, I’ve learned a lot and I’m ready to attack new builds. Mainly waiting for the Muffin fuzz to be back in stock to put a new order in. Probably a couple of fuzz and delays (analog and digital). Suggestion are welcome for the delays, I’m pretty set on the Muffin and the Danube for the fuzz.


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## fig (Feb 28, 2021)

What made you use ceramic over electrolytics for the 10u caps?


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## EGRENIER (Feb 28, 2021)

I didn’t know better . I just picked what was matching value without knowing there could even be a difference. I have never done any electronic work before these 2 boards. Should I alway buy electrolytic if not otherwise detailed like the film one for this build ?


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## fig (Feb 28, 2021)

Typically, the board will give clues. The caps that are round with polarity listed are usually electrolytic.
Ceramics are mostly in the pf range.
Film cap values run between ceramic and electrolytic mostly in the nf range
Electrolytic in the uf range.

There is overlap in values. (the 1u caps on this build for example. Some are meant to be electrolytic, some film).


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## EGRENIER (Feb 28, 2021)

Thanks for the guidance. And yes I could have listed that as a lesson learned. “The board includes info not included in the BOM...”


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## fig (Feb 28, 2021)

Hey, you did an exceptional job! What's next?


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## EGRENIER (Feb 28, 2021)

Muffin fuzz and Danube fuzz.  Also want to build a analog and a digital delay. So I’m thinking Seabed and the Hydra ?  Still need to decide. All suggestions welcome, please consider that I’m a newbie !


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## Dali (Feb 28, 2021)

I made those delays if you ever need ideas...

https://www.pedalpcb.com/product/pitchwitch/ (Black Pitch)
https://www.pedalpcb.com/product/pcb351/ (Terrarium with Rythmic Delay from https://github.com/tnatoli/Sonic_Daisy/tree/main/rhythm_delay)
https://www.pedalpcb.com/product/magnetrondelay/ (Magnet Delay)
Flight Delayed : https://forum.pedalpcb.com/threads/delayed-flight-custom-eeprom-delay-arachnid-clock-module.4072/
And Sarah's hand painted Cataclysm Delay https://www.pedalpcb.com/product/cataclysm/





I lend my Hydra to a friend but that was my post when I did it: https://forum.pedalpcb.com/threads/hydra-delay.4222/


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## fig (Feb 28, 2021)

I'm working on a D'Lay [pt2399] with tap tempo.
D'Lay


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## Chuck D. Bones (Mar 2, 2021)

fig said:


> What made you use ceramic over electrolytics for the 10u caps?


Those aren't ceramic, they are tantalum electrolytic. Actually a good choice.


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## Chuck D. Bones (Mar 2, 2021)

The Delegate (Boneyard or stock version) has a lot of knobs and you have to find the right settings.  This is a high-gain compressor and requires an LDR with quick response time and a large resistance range.  I always test my LDRs before installing them because there is a lot of variation from part-to-part.  Some will not work in the Delegate.  The low-gain compressors like the Fat General or SoloStorm are more forgiving.


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## cooder (Mar 2, 2021)

Chuck D. Bones said:


> The Delegate (Boneyard or stock version) has a lot of knobs and you have to find the right settings.  This is a high-gain compressor and requires an LDR with quick response time and a large resistance range.  I always test my LDRs before installing them because there is a lot of variation from part-to-part.  Some will not work in the Delegate.  The low-gain compressors like the Fat General or SoloStorm are more forgiving.


Could you give us pointers how to test LDRs for fast response time? Hope there's not too specialised equipment needed...


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## fig (Mar 2, 2021)

cooder said:


> Could you give us pointers how to test LDRs for fast response time? Hope there's not too specialised equipment needed...


Well in my experience, long distance relationships are strained from the get-go. As for response time, it is usually proportional to the distance.


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## Chuck D. Bones (Mar 2, 2021)

I use an oscilloscope and a function generator for measuring response time.  I don't know any other good way to do it.  I paid $200 for mine, there are cheaper ones out there.  This is what a good LDR looks like:




Green trace is LED current.  1V = 1mA.  Blue trace is LDR voltage with one lead grounded and the other pulled up to 9.3V by a 100K resistor.  At 4.6V, the LDR resistance is 100K.  at 7V, the LDR resistance is 300K.  It took the LDR 200ms to get to 300K when the LED turned off.


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## fig (Mar 2, 2021)

What's the typical response time? around 50ms?


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## Chuck D. Bones (Mar 2, 2021)

Depends on how high you want the resistance to go and how much light you put on the LDR.  They really slow down above a few hundred KΩ and overdosing them with light slows the turn-off response considerably.  You have to take the datasheet values with a grain of salt because the conditions the manufacturer uses for testing may be very different from what happens inside a pedal.


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## EGRENIER (Mar 2, 2021)

Chuck D. Bones said:


> Those aren't ceramic, they are tantalum electrolytic. Actually a good choice.


Well even a blind squirrel can find a nut !


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## EGRENIER (Mar 2, 2021)

Chuck D. Bones said:


> Depends on how high you want the resistance to go and how much light you put on the LDR.  They really slow down above a few hundred KΩ and overdosing them with light slows the turn-off response considerably.  You have to take the datasheet values with a grain of salt because the conditions the manufacturer uses for testing may be very different from what happens inside a pedal.


Well that goes above and beyond my ability to test an LDR, however, I did take the precaution to test that they were at least 500K dark.


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## Edenspace (Feb 7, 2022)

EGRENIER said:


> So I’ve completed my first 2 builds ever. A parasite Wah and a Delegate Compressor - Boneyard edition.
> 
> first on the Parasaite Wah: overall felt pretty simple.  Building the board went well, however the pedal expression enclosure is a nightmare. Missing screws, missing pad for the foot switch. Not ideal. Add to this that the included screws were longer than the drilled holes, I sheared 2 of them and had to resort to super glue.
> 
> ...


Where did you find the wah enclosure? Can't find anything online.


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## Chuck D. Bones (Feb 7, 2022)

Try buying a used CryBaby on eBay, that's what I did.  Comes with a switch & a pot.  There are some good deals, if some  doesn't bid the price up too high.


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## EGRENIER (Feb 7, 2022)

I think AlieExpress still sells them.. .but they are a pain in the A$$ to work with...









						23.79C$ |1PCS GEP 2 Wah Wah Guitar Effects Pedal Enclosure|pedal enclosure|effects pedalwah wah - AliExpress
					

Smarter Shopping, Better Living!  Aliexpress.com




					www.aliexpress.com


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## Robert (Feb 7, 2022)

Amplified Parts has them as well.

It's definitely worth checking the used market for an old/broken Crybaby, in a lot of cases you can find one for less than the cost of an empty shell.

The only issue I had with the type linked above is that the included screws for mounting the PCB weren't the correct size, otherwise it went together fairly easily.    I think other folks have run into different issues though.


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## EGRENIER (Feb 7, 2022)

Robert said:


> Amplified Parts has them as well.
> 
> It's definitely worth checking the used market for an old/broken Crybaby, in a lot of cases you can find one for less than the cost of an empty shell.
> 
> The only issue I had with the type linked above is that the included screws for mounting the PCB weren't the correct size, otherwise it went together fairly easily.    I think other folks have run into different issues though.



I think the manufacturer of these enclosure has a bin of lose mixed parts, at packaging they take a handful of parts and put that in the box.

I don`t think I have ever heard of anyone getting all the right parts 

It`s ridiculous, really !


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## fig (Feb 7, 2022)

Yup...the used shells have better tone ...but if you want a shiny one...Bugg mentioned earlier.


			https://www.tubesandmore.com/products/enclosure-wah-pedal-shell-and-hardware


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## Chuck D. Bones (Feb 7, 2022)

NICE!  Have you bought one from them?  How's the fit & finish?


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## EGRENIER (Feb 7, 2022)

Looks exactly the same as the Chinese one I got... I`m willing to bet that there are missing bits and piece...


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## fig (Feb 7, 2022)

Chuck D. Bones said:


> NICE!  Have you bought one from them?  How's the fit & finish?


No, but I am considering trying one. I got an old Morley from theBay, with power adapter, manual for $30 and gutted it for another project.

Edit: Aww heck...I'll get one and give my opinion.


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## EGRENIER (Feb 7, 2022)

fig said:


> No, but I am considering trying one. I got an old Morley from theBay, with power adapter, manual for $30 and gutted it for another project.
> 
> Edit: Aww heck...I'll get one and give my opinion.


If I can predict the parts you`ll be missing do I win anything ?  Maybe that should be the subject of your next contest.

My entry would be:

1 screw
The stomp switch pad
A few washers


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## Feral Feline (Feb 7, 2022)

I bet it’s the same thing as the eBay/Amazon/Alibaba/TaoBao ones, but that Tubes&More has sorted through all there stock of them and made incomplete ones complete, and swapped incorrect parts for correct items. 

Still, there’s no getting away from their cheapness — so if I win the new contest just give me a wallered used Crybaby, Demon, Morley, Vox etc…


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## EGRENIER (Feb 7, 2022)

Feral Feline said:


> I bet it’s the same thing as the eBay/Amazon/Alibaba/TaoBao ones, but that Tubes&More has sorted through all there stock of them and made incomplete ones complete, and swapped incorrect parts for correct items.
> 
> Still, there’s no getting away from their cheapness — so if I win the new contest just give me a wallered used Crybaby, Demon, Morley, Vox etc…


Exactly, like the issues I had with mine.  Self tapping screws longer than the depth of the hole in the enclosure.  Guess what happened, snap-crackle-pop I sheered 2 screws !!! GRRrrrrrr !


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## Chuck D. Bones (Feb 7, 2022)

When a screw doesn't want to turn, applying more force will not end well.  

I am not a fan of self-tapping screws.  They are a sign that the manufacturer took a shortcut to save a few pennies.  Even when they're working right, self-tapping screws don't do nearly as good a job as a proper tap.  A set of taps is not expensive and well worth it IMHO.  I end up chasing the threads on Tayda powder-coated boxes because they usually get a shit-ton of paint in the holes.


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## EGRENIER (Feb 7, 2022)

Chuck D. Bones said:


> When a screw doesn't want to turn, applying more force will not end well.
> 
> I am not a fan of self-tapping screws.  They are a sign that the manufacturer took a shortcut to save a few pennies.  Even when they're working right, self-tapping screws don't do nearly as good a job as a proper tap.  A set of taps is not expensive and well worth it IMHO.  I end up chasing the threads on Tayda powder-coated boxes because they usually get a shit-ton of paint in the holes.


Tell me about it, however, I didn't have to put more force, it was hard to get in at the get go and once it bottom out, just boom too late...

And yes, self tapping screws are a non-sense in aluminum casing, they're probably only good to do metal sheeting....

A set of taps is in my list of stuff I keep forgetting to buy !


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## fig (Feb 7, 2022)

EGRENIER said:


> If I can predict the parts you`ll be missing do I win anything ?  Maybe that should be the subject of your next contest.
> 
> My entry would be:
> 
> ...


Ordered. I could call the contest :" I told you so fig"...tell you waht <---huh?, huh? see waht I did there?
If you're correct, I'll put $25 towards your shell purchase and you can say "I told you so fig!" If you're wrong however  you must endure;

I told you so.
-fig


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## EGRENIER (Feb 8, 2022)

fig said:


> $25 towards your shell purchase


Shell as in wah ?

No way, I've suffered enough with this, I ain't doing that again...  Next time if I build any type of expression pedal, I'm carving one out of wood !

Edit: And it will be tone wood, so even better !


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## fig (Feb 8, 2022)

It's all a shell game


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## EGRENIER (Feb 8, 2022)




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## Fishbonetabby (Feb 9, 2022)

fig said:


> Typically, the board will give clues. The caps that are round with polarity listed are usually electrolytic.
> Ceramics are mostly in the pf range.
> Film cap values run between ceramic and electrolytic mostly in the nf range
> Electrolytic in the uf range.
> ...


My first few builds I used a lot of ceramic caps in place of film because frankly I didn't know any better.  I don't do it anymore but I gotta say that the pedals still sound phenomenal.  Someday maybe I'll swap them out but for now they ain't broke so no need to fix it imho.  Am I missing something?


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## fig (Feb 9, 2022)

I wouldn't bother if they sound good. The only time type matters is when specific polarity is spec'd. Then you'd probably want to choose an electrolytic, tantalum, or a "bi-polar" type.


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## EGRENIER (Feb 9, 2022)

fig said:


> I wouldn't bother if they sound good. The only time type matters is when specific polarity is spec'd. Then you'd probably want to choose an electrolytic, tantalum, or a "bi-polar" type.


My choice is tantalum, cuz it gives your pedals a ballzy sound !


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## fig (Feb 9, 2022)

Lovely! I too dig the tantalum.


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## EGRENIER (Feb 9, 2022)

fig said:


> Lovely! I too dig the tantalum.


LOL the set of three at the bottom right looks like a little boxer with his red boxing gloves up !!! 

I`m also impressed by the fact that you color coordinated your wiring, enclosure and pots


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## Harry Klippton (Feb 9, 2022)

More like taint-alum


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