# Sanguine Distortion



## Mourguitars (Oct 9, 2019)

This build took some time , it fired up but sounds like a Fuzz Pedal with a dying battery.

i put the LEDS long leg "anode "  in the ( A )...

Looks like things are coming in two's and tree's my way as far as builds lately ! ..Lol

Mike



https://imgur.com/KHjbbzh


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## Nostradoomus (Oct 9, 2019)

Did you sub any parts? Could be the lighting but I can’t see any 4.7k, 47k or 470k resistors in there


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## Mourguitars (Oct 9, 2019)

Those are in there Nostradamus....but I will check in the A.M

Tayda sent those Tan resistors instead of blue.

Should I turn  pedal on and test each one , do those effect the gain ?

mike


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## Nostradoomus (Oct 9, 2019)

I mean R3 should be 470k (Yellow Violet Black Orange) but yours looks like 560k...There should be quite a few yellow banded resistors on the board but I only see two (1M, R1 & R27)


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## Mourguitars (Oct 9, 2019)

Ok ....cool I’ll check it

thanks


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## Mourguitars (Oct 10, 2019)

R3 reads .471K and both LEDS light up when touched

Getting a weird reading on R4..so I'm pulling it out of the enclosure to get a better look at things

Mike



https://imgur.com/sDn6uNX


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## Nostradoomus (Oct 10, 2019)

Okay yeah it must have been the lighting in the first image! Looked green haha

Your 9v and jack ground pad look like they may have a touch too much solder on them, is there any contact there?


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## Mourguitars (Oct 10, 2019)

Replaced R4 4.7k checked reading on it before installing it...reflowed all solder joints, now its sounds like a Treble Booster, even with the treble backed off, Bass and mid i can hear a difference when backed off..Volume pot works and gain just adds more Treble


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## Nostradoomus (Oct 10, 2019)

I’d go over the rest of your component values...it’s working which is a good thing, but something just isn’t right.


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## Mourguitars (Oct 10, 2019)

Nostradoomus said:


> I’d go over the rest of your component values...it’s working which is a good thing, but something just isn’t right.



You got it i will ...thanks for your help

Mike


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## Mourguitars (Oct 10, 2019)

Ive read very resistors twice taking out of the bag putting next to each and everyone they have the same bands, one thing i keep coming back to is the 22n .022uf the code on them ( grey one's from Tayda ) read 223J100..shouldnt those say 222J100 ?

Mike


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## Nostradoomus (Oct 10, 2019)

Nope 222 is 2.2n. 223 is 22.


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## Nostradoomus (Oct 10, 2019)

Are these touching?


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## Mourguitars (Oct 10, 2019)

Questionable for sure , i fired up the iron and ran it between them ...ill test as soon as the business meeting is over, but great catch !

Mike


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## Mourguitars (Oct 10, 2019)

Still sounds like a Treble booster / Fuzz....

going to swap out the IC's , from a different batch of TL072's


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## Mourguitars (Oct 10, 2019)

That didn't help , tried thru a different amp...still the same . been on this since 8 am .

Wiggled wire's.... Pots im pretty stumped on this one, all controls and switch works...just sounds like a treble booster /fuzz


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## Chuck D. Bones (Oct 10, 2019)

Check voltage on pins 1 and 7 on all of the opamps with power on.  They should all be at or near 4.5V.  If they are, then the opamps are good and there is no point swapping them out.  Those cheap stamped IC metal sockets will get loose and make poor contact if you cycle them too any times. All of the parts I checked looked correct.  R27 is strange in the BOM & schematic.  a 1Meg resistor there makes no sense.  Wouldn't make it do what you're experiencing, but it is strange.


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## Mourguitars (Oct 10, 2019)

Oh cool will do ...thanks CDB !

Mike


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## Mourguitars (Oct 11, 2019)

Chuck D. Bones said:


> Check voltage on pins 1 and 7 on all of the opamps with power on.  They should all be at or near 4.5V.  If they are, then the opamps are good and there is no point swapping them out.  Those cheap stamped IC metal sockets will get loose and make poor contact if you cycle them too any times. All of the parts I checked looked correct.  R27 is strange in the BOM & schematic.  a 1Meg resistor there makes no sense.  Wouldn't make it do what you're experiencing, but it is strange.




Im getting 4.46v on pins 1 and 7 on all three IC's Chuck


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## Chuck D. Bones (Oct 11, 2019)

Next move is to start probing with the audio probe.  Set GAIN to zero, BASS & TREBLE to noon, MID to 10, toggle sw to center.  Following the schematic, move from the input end of the circuit to the output end, probing each opamp's output.  That would be IC1 pin 1, then IC1 pin 7, IC2 and so on.  Skip IC2 pin 7, there's no signal at that pin.  The volume will progressively increase, except IC3 pin 1 will not be as loud as IC2 pin 1 due to losses in the BASS & TREBLE controls.  At some point, the sound will take on the "treble booster" tone you described earlier.  The problem part of the circuit will be between that last place you had a good tone and the first place the tone goes all trebly.


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## Mourguitars (Oct 9, 2019)

This build took some time , it fired up but sounds like a Fuzz Pedal with a dying battery.

i put the LEDS long leg "anode "  in the ( A )...

Looks like things are coming in two's and tree's my way as far as builds lately ! ..Lol

Mike



https://imgur.com/KHjbbzh


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## Mourguitars (Oct 11, 2019)

Ok will do CDB


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## Mourguitars (Oct 14, 2019)

I probed pins 1 and 7 CDB...got 4.45v with the settings you told me to set the pots, all 3 IC's...again all 3 Ic's were the same 4.45v each pin

Plugged into amp , checked the pins with sound...same 4.45v on the pins...treble booster still
Mike


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## Mourguitars (Oct 20, 2019)

I replaced C20 and C19 , i looked at the schematic those caps were in front and back of the treble pot..those caps something was bothering me about them..so i replaced them also there are a few resistors going to the pot as well but left them alone..for now ?

A50K was a little scratchy i replaced that...When bending up the B1M i kinda had sound that i wanted ..i replaced that and now i have nothing at all..both pots tested good, been looking for a ground short..cant see one as of yet..

Put the meter on pins 1 and 7 on all IC's all read 4.45v except pin 7 on the bottom IC reads 8.83v....was 4.45v like the others

Im thinking about taking out the sockets and putting the IC's to the board before i do anything else below is a pic of what i use to take out parts ..i hope I'm doing it right...

I change the tip on the iron to a flat blade, dip the wick  bent in a V  dip in paste flux and press down on the PCB for 3-4 sec..that usually get it all..if not ill put on the small soldering tip and cut the leg off the part and use the solder sucker or a needle nose to get the rest out...

The flux makes a mess but comes off with the IPA...Im learning as i go...



https://imgur.com/PFlp3fi


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## Mourguitars (Oct 20, 2019)

Ic's sockets came out real easy...

Top IC reads 4.01........ pin 1
                      8.35........ pin 7

middle IC reads 4.40 .... pin 1
                           4.40 .... pin 7


Bottom IC reads 8.30....pin 1 
                            8.30....pin 7


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## Chuck D. Bones (Oct 20, 2019)

Top IC is IC3.  8.35V on pin 7 is bad.  Check pins 5 & 6 w.r.t. GND.

Middle IC is IC2.  All good.

Bottom IC must be IC1.  8.3V on pin 1 is bad.  Check pins 2 & 3 w.r.t. GND.


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## moonlightpedalbuilds (Oct 21, 2019)

Check your dpdt switch. Make sure it’s a on-off-on switch NOT an on-on-on switch. It happened to me before.


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## Mourguitars (Oct 21, 2019)

pedjok said:


> Check your dpdt switch. Make sure it’s a on-off-on switch NOT an on-on-on switch. It happened to me before.




Oh ....i made that mistake before...lol

Yea its the right one , just checked  but thanks pedjok !


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## Mourguitars (Oct 21, 2019)

Chuck D. Bones said:


> Top IC is IC3.  8.35V on pin 7 is bad.  Check pins 5 & 6 w.r.t. GND.
> 
> Middle IC is IC2.  All good.
> 
> Bottom IC must be IC1.  8.3V on pin 1 is bad.  Check pins 2 & 3 w.r.t. GND.




You are right...i went top to bottom from the pic..my bad !

Its time for me to learn how to read the schematics !


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## Mourguitars (Oct 21, 2019)

I think i created a major problem..its my bad , when bending up the B1M pot the leg coming of the 4.7uf the pad lifted up off the PCB lifting some  black coating as well.

Unless i can carefully scrape in two different spots on the circuit paths and solder a wire on both sides of that pot leg to the paths..i think it's doomed..

I did drop it once so that might have done it...messing with it to much...oops !

Mike


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## Robert (Oct 21, 2019)

It _should_ be salvageable, when I'm back at my computer I'll send you a pic of the traces. 

  You can just install a jumper wire between the pot lug and one (or two) pads on the PCB.   No scraping should be necessary.


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## Mourguitars (Oct 21, 2019)

Robert said:


> It _should_ be salvageable, when I'm back at my computer I'll send you a pic of the traces.
> 
> You can just install a jumper wire between the pot lug and one (or two) pads on the PCB.   No scraping should be necessary.




Oh cool , thanks !


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## falzhobel (Apr 13, 2020)

Chuck D. Bones said:


> Top IC is IC3.  8.35V on pin 7 is bad.  Check pins 5 & 6 w.r.t. GND.
> 
> Middle IC is IC2.  All good.
> 
> Bottom IC must be IC1.  8.3V on pin 1 is bad.  Check pins 2 & 3 w.r.t. GND.



What can be the cause of having a 7.5V on pin 7, but 4.5 on 5 and 6. I cannot find anything that short an higher voltage there. Thanks !

EDIT : Woush, that leaky 220nF capacitor was hard to find.


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