# Switch for diodes muff fuzz



## irvmuller (Aug 11, 2020)

I’m wanting to add a switch for the second clipping section for the diodes on the muff fuzz. I want to be able to switch between LEDs and the regular setting. What would be the correct outgoing and input spots for that? I figured they would be the two top ones. I was planning to use an SPDT.


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## irvmuller (Aug 11, 2020)

Here is a picture of the switch I created...


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## Robert (Aug 11, 2020)

Top and Bottom of D3 or D4, doesn't matter which one.


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## irvmuller (Aug 11, 2020)

Robert said:


> Top and Bottom of D3 or D4, doesn't matter which one.



If I used D4, would the top go to the switch then the bottom would be going back from the switch?


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## Robert (Aug 11, 2020)

The diodes are back-to-back so it doesn't matter which direction you connect it.


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## Chuck D. Bones (Aug 12, 2020)

I recommend using a center-off switch, because no diodes is a great sounding option.  Just be warned, it's a lot LOUDER with no diodes on the 3rd stage.


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## irvmuller (Aug 12, 2020)

Chuck D. Bones said:


> I recommend using a center-off switch, because no diodes is a great sounding option.  Just be warned, it's a lot LOUDER with no diodes on the 3rd stage.



yeah. I figured that out! It almost sounds Tonebendery to me.

However, I realized today that’s the only sound coming out of the pedal. I think I applied too much heat and jacked around too much with the diode spots for the 2nd clipping section. So, I’m waiting up on another PCB(waitlist) and am gonna use the jacks, foot switch and case off the current pedal. I need to be more careful the 2nd time around.


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## Chuck D. Bones (Aug 12, 2020)

You have to be pretty brutal to screw up one of these boards.  Do you have a temperature-controlled soldering iron?

The board is probably repairable, or you can hook up the diode switch to any number of spots if the only problem is a broken trace or pad.


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## irvmuller (Aug 12, 2020)

Chuck D. Bones said:


> You have to be pretty brutal to screw up one of these boards.  Do you have a temperature-controlled soldering iron?
> 
> The board is probably repairable, or you can hook up the diode switch to any number of spots if the only problem is a broken trace or pad.



 I had the section socketed. I had trouble getting the sockets out and broke them to get them out. After that I noticed it wouldn’t work right. I’m not sure where the problem is exactly but it’s definitely my fault. I don’t mind waiting on a board that doesn’t look so mangled.

I don’t have a temp controlled iron. I need to quit being so cheap and get one though.


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