# Brown Betty



## LanePw (Nov 20, 2020)

I'm having an issue with no sound when the effect is engaged. The indicator led works as should and I've got sound in bypass. Only L3 inside is lighting up dimly. I double checked the LED orientation on the rest and they're correct and worked on my breadboard after removing to check them. 
I'm getting almost 6v on one side and 3v on the other of the one that's working and none on the others. All IC's are getting power. Kind of stumped on this.


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## music6000 (Nov 20, 2020)

Post Good pictures of Both sides of PCB Board, Jacks & Footswitch connections.


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## LanePw (Nov 20, 2020)




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## music6000 (Nov 20, 2020)

Can you Test these matching Colour circles for Continuity:


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## LanePw (Nov 20, 2020)

music6000 said:


> Can you Test these matching Colour circles for Continuity:
> 
> View attachment 7848


All of those check out. I flipped L4 around making L3-4 symmetrical and now both light up. L2 pad K on component side has now pulled off when I removed to try the same thing I did on the presence circuit. I've got continuity from C6 to anode on L2. Jumped L2 A to L1 K to make the circuit whole again and still no lights on either L1 or L2 even with the gain pot rolled all three way up or down. IC 2 is sill sending to C6 and C6 to L2, but nothing.


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## LanePw (Nov 20, 2020)

I fixed the pad  on L2. Everything in the gain circuit is passing signal. 
All IC's are operating as they should. I'm at a complete loss on this one. I tested every component before installing even. 
I'm totally baffled at this point


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## PJS (Nov 21, 2020)

Can you post the voltages on each pin of each IC please.


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## music6000 (Nov 21, 2020)

Can test for Continuity on the Matching colours & supply Voltages for each TL072 :
I'm not a Fan of those Op Amp Sockets!
Use Machined Pin type Only!


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## LanePw (Nov 22, 2020)

PJS said:


> Can you post the voltages on each pin of each IC please.


I verified pin 4 on all IC's going to ground with no resistance.


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## LanePw (Nov 22, 2020)

music6000 said:


> Can test for Continuity on the Matching colours & supply Voltages for each TL072 :
> I'm not a Fan of those Op Amp Sockets!
> Use Machined Pin type Only!
> View attachment 7865


Curious thing happened when I was checking those pink and yellow circled pads. I had a probe on the pink on the gain pot and checked at C6 which is in-between the branches of that circuit, the LED's would come on. Bad pot maybe?


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## music6000 (Nov 22, 2020)




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## LanePw (Nov 22, 2020)

music6000 said:


> View attachment 7877


I'm no longer seeing continuity between the capacitor C6 (47p) to the LED's or gain pot. Indicated in yellow.


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## music6000 (Nov 22, 2020)

music6000 said:


> View attachment 7877


Check for Continuity with matching coloured circles with Centre Dots.


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## LanePw (Nov 22, 2020)

music6000 said:


> Check for Continuity with matching coloured circles with Centre Dots.


Continuity is good from IC to C7. C6. Nothing from C6 to gain pot.


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## music6000 (Nov 22, 2020)

So, you still have continuity from Gain 3 to both LED's but not from L2 to C6 BUT Continuity from Ic Pin 7 to C6?


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## LanePw (Nov 22, 2020)

music6000 said:


> So, you still have continuity from Gain 3 to both LED's but not from L2 to C6 BUT Continuity from Ic Pin 7 to C6?


Correct


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## music6000 (Nov 22, 2020)

Just to clarify, Those 2 - 47pF are really Large!
Can tell me what is written on them, ie 47,  471, 472, 473, 474.


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## LanePw (Nov 22, 2020)

music6000 said:


> Just to clarify, Those 2 - 47pF are really Large!
> Can tell me what is written on them, ie 47,  471, 472, 473, 474.


Marked 470. I have replaced C6 with another.  It tested 44pf. The one in the pic is another from the same batch.


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## LanePw (Nov 22, 2020)

I have also now jumped L2 to C6 and have continuity.
Volume pot A50k is very scratchy I just noticed.


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## music6000 (Nov 22, 2020)

Are you getting sound from the pedal now?
Spray the  A50K Volume pot only with Electrical Cleaner if you have some.


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## LanePw (Nov 20, 2020)

I'm having an issue with no sound when the effect is engaged. The indicator led works as should and I've got sound in bypass. Only L3 inside is lighting up dimly. I double checked the LED orientation on the rest and they're correct and worked on my breadboard after removing to check them. 
I'm getting almost 6v on one side and 3v on the other of the one that's working and none on the others. All IC's are getting power. Kind of stumped on this.


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## music6000 (Nov 22, 2020)

1.45 am here in Western Australia, Signing Out.


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## LanePw (Nov 22, 2020)

music6000 said:


> Are you getting sound from the pedal now?
> Spray the  A50K Volume pot only with Electrical Cleaner if you have some.


Pot's still scratchy after cleaning. No sound with effect engaged still. Bypass works fine.


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## music6000 (Nov 22, 2020)

LanePw said:


> Pot's still scratchy after cleaning. No sound with effect engaged still. Bypass works fine.


I need to know every/ what components have been removed & replaced by you.
I was the 1st to build this circuit way back, no issues.





						Brown Betty
					

This was on the old Forum & Lost. Plenty of adjustment to fine tune your Overdrive/Distortion needs. Mods : Battery Clip & Stereo Input Jack.



					forum.pedalpcb.com


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## LanePw (Nov 22, 2020)

music6000 said:


> I need to know every/ what components have been removed & replaced by you.
> I was the 1st to build this circuit way back, no issues.
> 
> 
> ...


Replaced:
C6 (47pf, measured 44pf)
L1 & L2 with green 3mm Led (out of red)
Gain pot (A1M)
Volume pot (A50k)
Mid (C100k)
All 4 TL072 IC's
Shunt between C6/L2
Shunt between L1/L2
Shunts only because there was no continuity at those locations.
Volume pot due to scratchy that wouldn't clean up,  and mid pot broke from bending back to check solder joints and continuity.
Gain pot only because everything left in that branch tested good after gaining continuity.
Had to strip and solder the switch lead from the switch PCB to main PCB due to wire breaking from manipulating it during testing. 
Parts sourced from Tayda, and Mouser.


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## LanePw (Nov 22, 2020)

History on my build. I spent between 6-7 hours on just the PCB. I measured and tested all components during the install. I used a magnifying lens while placing components to avoid accidentally placing them in the wrong place. I mark off each component as I place them. Connotation over a week and a half as I was a few resistor values short and wanted the exact values. 
I've checked continuity on the switch in both positions. Done all checks you've suggested. Checked voltages on all pins of the IC's. Traced out and tested the entire power circuit. 
I've got 4-5 other builds from PedalPCB with zero issues from the first power up. This one has me questioning my sanity, and if I should sell all of my parts stock and soldering station. If it's just a bad board, I'd feel silly then.


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## music6000 (Nov 22, 2020)

Recheck these for Continuity
Just added 2 teale Dots to check:


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## LanePw (Nov 22, 2020)

music6000 said:


> Recheck these for Continuity
> Just added 2 teale Dots to check:
> 
> View attachment 7897


Those all checked out as well.


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## music6000 (Nov 22, 2020)

Recheck Continuity on BASS, MIDDLE & TREBLE pads
If these are Good, we have to check Electrolytics :


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## LanePw (Nov 22, 2020)

music6000 said:


> Recheck Continuity on BASS, MIDDLE & TREBLE pads
> If these are Good, we have to check Electrolytics :
> View attachment 7900


These all checked out as well. 
Thank you for going through this build with me. I really appreciate it.


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## LanePw (Nov 22, 2020)

The three electrolytics tested well before installation. I've checked them this morning and all showed resistance that changes in a counting down manner using continuity on the multimeter.


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## LanePw (Nov 22, 2020)

I've just ordered another board. I've lost confidence in this particular one. I'll have to order a few more parts, but I was really set on hearing this. Again, thank you so much for going through this with me.


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## mjh36 (Nov 22, 2020)

Hey I think you'll get the second one right I'm sure. I look at it as you can always have this one as a side project to work on, and one day it'll work and then you have the twin sisters!


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## Mcknib (Nov 23, 2020)

What's your R19 value doesn't look correct should be 470K looks like 5K6?

IC3 pins 1,6,7 and IC4 voltages look off all your VDD reference points should be near what's coming out of pin 7 IC1 4.44v I'd check all your VDD points on the schematic see if it narrows down your problem area


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## music6000 (Nov 23, 2020)

Mcknib said:


> What's your R19 value doesn't look correct should be 470K looks like 5K6


 To me,l ooks like Yellow, Purple, Black, Orange, Brown = 470K


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## Mcknib (Nov 23, 2020)

music6000 said:


> To me,l ooks like Yellow, Purple, Black, Orange, Brown = 470K
> 
> View attachment 7903


Now thats nice and clear I can see it

Better go to Specsavers! I zoomed in and everything, still looked like green blue black brown brown


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## LanePw (Nov 23, 2020)

Here's a closer picture of the R19 section. I'll compare it to the rest of the 470k strip that I have when I'm off work this afternoon. I'll even throw a few on the tester, and multimeter to verify. 
I'll plan on checking all of the VREF points also. I've got a few days to burn before the new one arrives.


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## Chuck D. Bones (Nov 23, 2020)

If it's not too late for me to jump in here...
IC1 voltages look good.
IC2 voltages look good.
IC3 voltages are outta whack. pin 1 too high, pins 6 & 7 too low.
IC4 voltages are outta whack, explains why the VOLUME control is scratchy.

Re IC3, my guess is R12 is broken, has a bad solder joint, or a broken pad.  Another possibility is all that flux residue on the board has created a leakage path.  We can't see most of the solder side due to the pots.  Clean the board thoroughly with IPA.


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## LanePw (Nov 23, 2020)

Chuck D. Bones said:


> If it's not too late for me to jump in here...
> IC1 voltages look good.
> IC2 voltages look good.
> IC3 voltages are outta whack. pin 1 too high, pins 6 & 7 too low.
> ...


Not to late at all. I'm open to all advice. I'll check both sides of R12 too. Thank you. 
If I'm bending the pots back to do more continuity checks I'll get more of the flux off while I'm at it. I tried IPA but it just looked like it was working with a brush, but when it evaporated it looked like it really just spread it around.


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## Chuck D. Bones (Nov 23, 2020)

You have to flood the board, scrub with a toothbrush and flood again.  Make sure dirty IPA does not get into the pots.  Clean IPA is ok.  Once we get the IC3 pin 7 voltage corrected, the other voltages should come back into the correct range.  Look for solder splashes and conductive debris on the solder side after you get it clean.


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## LanePw (Nov 23, 2020)

Addressed R12 with a new 220k. No change Have continuity at D3 age C6 as it should too.


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## LanePw (Nov 20, 2020)

I'm having an issue with no sound when the effect is engaged. The indicator led works as should and I've got sound in bypass. Only L3 inside is lighting up dimly. I double checked the LED orientation on the rest and they're correct and worked on my breadboard after removing to check them. 
I'm getting almost 6v on one side and 3v on the other of the one that's working and none on the others. All IC's are getting power. Kind of stumped on this.


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## Chuck D. Bones (Nov 23, 2020)

How are the cleaning and visual inspection going?  You stand a much better chance of finding and fixing the fault by inspection than by changing parts.


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## LanePw (Nov 23, 2020)

Coming along. Letting it dry really well in between bushings so I can see how much is coming off. Using my plastic tweezers to scrape off the residue between the pads also. Ended up having to replace between R12 and D3. Must have damaged the pad when I swapped it and scrubbing it. Lost continuity there. Not changing anything until its thoroughly clean as I can get it being fully populated. First time having this much trouble with a pedal build.


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## LanePw (Nov 26, 2020)

Just an update. I've had no luck with this still. I'm harvesting the switch and jacks for another build (Fuzz Foundry) and I'll have a new Brown Betty board by Saturday according to shipping. I should have an order for parts I was low on after this build to have exactly what the BOM calls for again. 
Only thing I can think of to do differently would be to take greater care in cleaning the board as I go, detailed clean before populating the pots, and trace the entire board before beginning anything. Hopefully the second time around will be functional.
I greatly appreciate all of the input and time everyone gave, and I do have some great takeaways from this experience. The old board will be set aside in hopes I'll see something on the second attempt that'll give me that "aaahhaaa" moment and I'll have the first one in working order.


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## music6000 (Nov 26, 2020)

I have tried Isopryl & it has it uses but didn't meet my approval.
I use CRC Automotive Electronic Cleaner Spray Can only.
No scrubbing, Just a quick spray with the extension tube till it drips.
Dries fast, Check for any flux residue, Spray again to be sure.
It works Great for me!


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## Chuck D. Bones (Nov 26, 2020)

Sounds like the right move at this point. Inspect as you go. Take your time.


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## LanePw (Nov 28, 2020)

Alright!!! Board #2 is complete, and all functionality tests check the good box. Also,a clean PCB is a happy PCB.  Only thing I did different is use ceramic capacitors at C8 & 9.
I socketed the L1-4 pads to be able to season those clipping diodes to taste. The reds sound good IMO, and I'm looking forward to trying a few combos. One red and one green is what I understand Marshall uses to get their tone. What would be some other combos or diodes to try out?


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## music6000 (Nov 28, 2020)

Good to Hear!
1. If it were me, I would have utilized that Empty space up top with the Input & Output Jacks, the 1590BB is already wide enough.
You will be surprised how much Space is lost with Side mounted jacks, even with Mini pedals!
2. Use Machined Pin Op Amp sockets. I have received a few pedals from USA to Australia with this type that you have used & nearly all of them 
didn't work when plugged in. I would open them up to see what was going on & the Op Amp would be missing from the Socket.
I  have mentioned it a few times on the Forum & you will find nearly all the Builds use the Machined Pin type.
3. A trick with the Sockets for the LED, Transistors, Diodes Legs is to tin with some Solder so they Grip better so they dont fall out.
Once you have decided what you want permantly, Solder at least one Leg so they don't fall out!
You do not have to do this with the machined Op Amp socket. Once there in they are very firm, I have never had an Issue.

Happy Building!
Cheers music6000


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## LanePw (Nov 29, 2020)

music6000 said:


> Good to Hear!
> 1. If it were me, I would have utilized that Empty space up top with the Input & Output Jacks, the 1590BB is already wide enough.
> You will be surprised how much Space is lost with Side mounted jacks, even with Mini pedals!
> 2. Use Machined Pin Op Amp sockets. I have received a few pedals from USA to Australia with this type that you have used & nearly all of them
> ...


Thank you again for the sage advice. I've got some proper op amp sockets on order now. I did intentionally leave the upper end of the enclosure free to possibly add a toggle allowing me to add a secondary gain stage for L1/2. A different pair of diodes if I find another set that I want to keep. I'm also considering mounting L3/4 to the face of the enclosure. It's cool to watch them as you see the signal pass through IMHO. 
It's been a great learning experience for me, and helped me gain back a cautious confidence when the second build fired right up.


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## caiofilipini (Nov 30, 2020)

music6000 said:


> I have tried Isopryl & it has it uses but didn't meet my approval.
> I use CRC Automotive Electronic Cleaner Spray Can only.
> No scrubbing, Just a quick spray with the extension tube till it drips.
> Dries fast, Check for any flux residue, Spray again to be sure.
> ...



Is this basically the same thing in different packaging?



			https://www.amazon.com/CRC-05103-Electronic-Cleaner-11/dp/B000BXOGNI/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=automotive+electronic+cleaner&qid=1606768299&sr=8-2


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## music6000 (Nov 30, 2020)

caiofilipini said:


> Is this basically the same thing in different packaging?
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/CRC-05103-Electronic-Cleaner-11/dp/B000BXOGNI/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=automotive+electronic+cleaner&qid=1606768299&sr=8-2


It will do the same job, you may have to use a bit more as has a lower flashpoint for sensitive plastics.


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## caiofilipini (Nov 30, 2020)

music6000 said:


> It will do the same job, you may have to use a bit more as has a lower flashpoint for sensitive plastics.



Thanks!


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## Barry (Nov 30, 2020)

music6000 said:


> It will do the same job, you may have to use a bit more as has a lower flashpoint for sensitive plastics.


Apparently the one you're using isn't available in the states


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## Loxton (May 18, 2022)

Hi, I'm having the same issue. No audio when engaged. 
Led4 lights up when the trim pot is fully counter-clockwise.
Led3 lights up when turned 1/4 turn - fully clockwise.
Audio up to IC2 pin 2 and 7 then nothing after that. R14 tested great but no audio on the left side of it. No audio at C9.
Replaced IC2 with same results.


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## Loxton (May 18, 2022)

music6000 said:


> Recheck Continuity on BASS, MIDDLE & TREBLE pads
> If these are Good, we have to check Electrolytics :


Continuity all checks out great.


Chuck D. Bones said:


> If it's not too late for me to jump in here...


IC2 readings looks odd?


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## music6000 (May 18, 2022)

Loxton said:


> Continuity all checks out great.
> 
> IC2 readings looks odd?
> 
> View attachment 26401


All your Resistors are correct & have good solder penetration except the right side of R22 - 22K looks like no solder at all ????:


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## temol (May 18, 2022)

Loxton said:


> IC2 readings looks odd?


Yes. 
Pins 1 and 2 should read around 4.3V. 
First of all - check value of the R5 - from the picture looks like 3k9 (orange, white, black, brown, brown) instead of 39k (orange, white, black, red, brown).


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## jeffwhitfield (May 18, 2022)

Another tip on flux is to use a water soluble flux. I use Chip Quik flux. It's a bit messy but is pretty easy to clean up with alcohol and some non-static towels. Could also use distilled water to wash the boards. I use cheap small paint brushes to dab on a bit of flux to the places I'm soldering.  Great stuff!


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## music6000 (May 18, 2022)

temol said:


> Yes.
> Pins 1 and 2 should read around 4.3V.
> First of all - check value of the R5 - from the picture looks like 3k9 (orange, white, black, brown, brown) instead of 39k (orange, white, black, red, brown).


Shine a bit of light on it:


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## temol (May 18, 2022)

One more tip is not to use flux at all..  Just solder with a resin core. And wash the pcb well with isopropyl alcohol before soldering.


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## Chuck D. Bones (May 18, 2022)

Loxton said:


> Hi, I'm having the same issue. No audio when engaged.
> Led4 lights up when the trim pot is fully counter-clockwise.
> Led3 lights up when turned 1/4 turn - fully clockwise.
> Audio up to IC2 pin 2 and 7 then nothing after that. R14 tested great but no audio on the left side of it. No audio at C9.
> Replaced IC2 with same results.



I suspect either R14 or the trimmer are not connected, OR something is shorted to IC2-2.

Clean the board thoroughly to get rid of flux residue.
Show us the back side of the board.  With the BASS pot bent out of the way.

Next time start a new thread.


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## LanePw (Nov 20, 2020)

I'm having an issue with no sound when the effect is engaged. The indicator led works as should and I've got sound in bypass. Only L3 inside is lighting up dimly. I double checked the LED orientation on the rest and they're correct and worked on my breadboard after removing to check them. 
I'm getting almost 6v on one side and 3v on the other of the one that's working and none on the others. All IC's are getting power. Kind of stumped on this.


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## Loxton (May 18, 2022)

Chuck D. Bones said:


> Next time start a new thread.


Sorry Chuck. 
I started a new thread.


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