# Beginner build, my first pedal, i'm nervous and i have some questions



## Toerktumlare (Jan 27, 2020)

Hi, i did electronics during college about 15 years ago but since then i haven't done more than change some broken resistors the past years.

I thought i would try to build the *triangulum boost* pedal as a first build, i got the PCBs in the mail today and i'm pretty excited. I have been googling now for 3 hours looking at parts and i have a bunch of questions before i start. I apologize beforehand if these questions get asked all the time i have been trying to google and search the forum as much as i can. I am a bit scared of my first build.

First thing first, best place to order parts? I'm in Europe (Sweden), Mousers webpage was completely horrible, Tayda seemed nice, any other suggestions?

Next I have some noob questions:

- For the footswitch i assume its a 3PDT alternate action that is being used?
- Jacks are just 2, 1/4"?
- For the power, i assume it's running on 9V? or am i wrong, i have no idea what type of power connection that is good, what diameter etc.
- I googled that there are different TL071's that have different appended letters but it didn't really matter which one you chose, is this correct?
- And the main potentiometer i guess is logarithmic and not linear?
- I assume that the TC1044SCPA is a voltage regulator, but i'm thinking what the LED next to it is dimensioned for, a standard one like red?, but what if i want a blue do i need to alter resistor R100?
- any suggested enclosure?

Im sorry for my questions, i'm just a bit nervous but excited about building something again.

//Thomas


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## BurntFingers (Jan 27, 2020)

Tayda for everything.

The PCBs are designed to fit in the boxes (enclosures) tayda sells with the thinline 2.1mm power jack, not the boss style big thing. Yes it's 9v.

The indicator led can be any size and colour. There's a 4k7 resistor on the board to limit the current flow so it doesn't explode. I drill out the existing hole to 8mm so I can use a 5mm led in a chrome bezel because I like the way it looks. You don't need a bezel at all, it's a stylistic choice.

TL071 is a TL071. They might have a different suffix depending on the manufacturer but if you use tayda I know them to be good and work fine.

Always buy ic sockets, 1 for each chip.

Yes. 2 regular 1/4" jacks.


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## twebb6778 (Jan 27, 2020)

Welcome aboard!

Congratulations on getting your first board, it's really exciting being able to put something together yourself.


You'll be able to get everything on the build sheet from Tayda, except the 2 x BC550C's and the TC1044SCPA. You'll have to look elsewhere for these, just be careful because mouser can have high shipping charges.
A single 3PDT is what you need. Grab *this one* 
You will need 2 x 1/4" jacks, like *these*
You will be running at 9v. Get *this* power jack. Remember to wire it so the centre pin is negative.
Get the TL071 from Tayda. *Here*
The potentiometer is an A taper, so you'll need a logarithmic. Get *this* one from Tayda
The brightness of your bypass LED will be determined by R100. Start with 4k7. If this is too bright, go for a higher resistor. If it's not bright enough, use a lower resistor. Don't go any lower than 1k.
The build documents suggest a 125B enclosure. I'd recommend getting one from Tayda, any of *these *will work great.


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## twebb6778 (Jan 27, 2020)

I'd also very highly recommend you take a look through JBK's workflow:






						Basic Workflow Tips for Building a PedalPCB
					

Hello! This is my method for building a PedalPCB from start to finish. Is it the right way? Not necessarily. It's just what works for me and I hope it sheds some light on certain steps in the process along the way. I created this as a reference guide for anyone to use if needed. Thanks for...



					forum.pedalpcb.com
				




He's done a great jobs of putting together a step by step guide of how he put together these builds.


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## Robert (Jan 27, 2020)

Just to add, if you aren't feeling up to drilling the enclosure you can order one pre-drilled from Tayda, in any powdercoat color they offer.

This is the link to the custom drilling service:








						125B ENCLOSURE CUSTOM DRILL SERVICE
					

Tayda Electronics - Get It Fast - Same Day Shipping




					www.taydaelectronics.com
				




Here's the template to upload:
https://docs.pedalpcb.com/project/drill/125B_1-Knob-Type-1.pdf
The only difference from what was mentioned above is that you'd need to use this type of DC jack instead:








						DC Power Jack 2.1mm Panel Mount Round
					

Get It Fast - Same Day Shipping




					www.taydaelectronics.com


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## Chuck D. Bones (Jan 28, 2020)

I second that recommendation on the Tayda pre-drilled enclosures.  Saves a lot of time and the paint it beautiful.  Note that they are painted after drilling and you will probably need to ream some of the holes out.  Also, sand or scrape some of the paint off around the holes on the inside so that the pots, jacks & switches make electrical contact with the enclosure.
Take a look at the Build Reports forum for some inspiration.
Take your time, do a good job, use quality parts and you'll be pleased with the result.  Inspect the board thoroughly before installing the pots because  if you have to fix a solder joint or change a part, it's a LOT easier to do before the pots are installed.  You've come to the right place for help; among the usual contributors there is over 100 years of combined experience.


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## David (Jan 28, 2020)

Hi everyone,

*Toerktumlare, *have fun with your build, hope you'll enjoy make pedals by yourself.
Triangulum Boost is a good first build i think.



Robert said:


> Here's the template to upload:
> https://docs.pedalpcb.com/project/drill/125B_1-Knob-Type-1.pdf



*PedalPCB*, where can we find those drill templates to send to Tayda for a particular pcb ?


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## Robert (Jan 28, 2020)

David said:


> *PedalPCB*, where can we find those drill templates to send to Tayda for a particular pcb ?



As they're made available they will be added to each product page. (just below the Download Build Docs links)


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## stevtron (Jan 28, 2020)

Since you from Sverige I would also suggest german Musikding.de. Maybe a little easier and faster, cause it's still in the EU and you'll find everything you're looking for there too. Lykke til 

… and btw. you can get complete DIY kits for nearly every PedalPCB from there too !


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## Toerktumlare (Jan 28, 2020)

Wow, i didn't not expect such a friendly response from all of you. This makes me even more excited over starting to build!

I have one additional question, it say that if you go for the pre-drilled option, you should send an email and the subject of that email should be the order number followed by the SKU? The SKU seems to be some sort of product ID, but i don't really understand what i should write as the "SKU"?

my guess is if i want one red and one black i should write 

<order number> A-5869, A-5192


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## Robert (Jan 28, 2020)

That should be correct, the SKU is on each of the product pages.

If you order different templates make sure you specify in the email which template goes with which color/SKU.


The custom drilling service is brand new, I doubt very many people have used it yet.


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## Toerktumlare (Jan 28, 2020)

twebb6778 said:


> Welcome aboard!
> 
> Congratulations on getting your first board, it's really exciting being able to put something together yourself.
> 
> ...



you wrote that the:

TC1044SCPA needed to be sourced elsewhere but isn't this that component?









						TC1044SCPA TC1044 Voltage Regulator IC
					

MICROCHIP - Get It Fast - Same Day Shipping




					www.taydaelectronics.com


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## BurntFingers (Jan 28, 2020)

Toerktumlare said:


> you wrote that the:
> 
> TC1044SCPA needed to be sourced elsewhere but isn't this that component?
> 
> ...



Yep that's the right one. They may have been out of stock when the dude looked.


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## Toerktumlare (Jan 28, 2020)

any suggesting what type of cabling works, what AWG thickness?


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## twebb6778 (Jan 28, 2020)

That's the one! Sorry, clearly didn't look hard enough.

I'd recommend using 22 or 24 gauge stranded wire. This will be easiest to work with.


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## BurntFingers (Jan 28, 2020)

I use 24 awg solid wire. The complete lack of need to tin every wire at both ends is something I greatly appreciate.


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## thedwest (Jan 29, 2020)

Robert said:


> Just to add, if you aren't feeling up to drilling the enclosure you can order one pre-drilled from Tayda, in any powdercoat color they offer.
> 
> This is the link to the custom drilling service:
> 
> ...



Any chance they will offer the custom drilling for other enclosure sizes, like the 1590BB?


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## Robert (Jan 29, 2020)

thedwest said:


> Any chance they will offer the custom drilling for other enclosure sizes, like the 1590BB?



Yep, it's coming.    I've already started on the templates.


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## Nostradoomus (Jan 29, 2020)

Be careful with solid wire if you go that route, it doesn’t have as many flexes in its life as stranded does.


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## Toerktumlare (Feb 3, 2020)

I got my ordered components from Tayda today, here's the 2 boxes, predrilled from Tayda. So nice!


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## BurntFingers (Feb 3, 2020)

Oh that is cool. I was hoping they would just add 1 and 2 knobbers to their selection. Nice work.

If I build a one knob pedal I have to mod it to add more controls. First world problem.


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## Chuck D. Bones (Feb 3, 2020)

You will probably have to bore the holes out a little bit, Tayda paints _after _drilling.  Also, the insides are completely coated with paint.  It's important for the jacks and pots to make metal-to-metal contact with the chassis.  Some pedals are forgiving in that respect, others are not.  Don't ask me how I know . Use sandpaper or a wire wheel to scrape away a little paint around each hole (on the inside).


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## Toerktumlare (Feb 3, 2020)

No worries, i have a dremel so i will be sanding off some paint ? around the holes ??


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