# Water slide decal question



## megatrav (May 8, 2021)

Hey folks,

I have been experimenting with using water slides on a recent build. I am using an inkjet printer and doing a couple heavy coats of krylon clear so that the color doesn’t run.
The color isn’t running, however. No matter how well I try to flatten it on the enclosure, the sides and corners aren’t staying flat. Is there a method I should try or do I need to add more clear coat?
The lines aren’t hanging over as you can see in the image.
Any advice is appreciated!


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## ITG6 (May 8, 2021)

Not sure there is anyway to make them stick on curves, I struggled with that as well.  Finally just started making them a bit smaller so everything stayed on the flat surface.


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## megatrav (May 8, 2021)

ITG6 said:


> Not sure there is anyway to make them stick on curves, I struggled with that as well.  Finally just started making them a bit smaller so everything stayed on the flat surface.


The thing is, I thought I had it so that it was only on the flat part. I may try again by making them a little smaller.
Thanks for the reply!


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## SYLV9ST9R (May 8, 2021)

I know one thing I did was to hold the decal face down on the backplate while putting it in water. It really helped for the decal not to roll up on itself and stay flat. Might help you.


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## megatrav (May 8, 2021)

SYLV9ST9R said:


> I know one thing I did was to hold the decal face down on the backplate while putting it in water. It really helped for the decal not to roll up on itself and stay flat. Might help you.


Pro tips! Thank you.
I made them slightly smaller and made sure all the text was scaled. I am also going to do a third layer of clear this time.
I am pretty proud of the image overall. I hope I can make it turn out good!


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## dlazzarini (May 8, 2021)

megatrav said:


> Hey folks,
> 
> I have been experimenting with using water slides on a recent build. I am using an inkjet printer and doing a couple heavy coats of krylon clear so that the color doesn’t run.
> The color isn’t running, however. No matter how well I try to flatten it on the enclosure, the sides and corners aren’t staying flat. Is there a method I should try or do I need to add more clear coat?
> ...


Try a few lighter coats instead of heavy. I use krypton crystal clear acrylic. It’s hard to say what’s causing it. It my be the brand of paper. I’ve had certain brands that wouldn’t stick at all. When it’s happened to me it’s either been shitty paper or I clear coated to thick.


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## peccary (May 8, 2021)

Are you warming the water first? I've noticed that the water temp really has an effect on the film and how cooperative it is. Too hot or too cold can cause some issues.


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## Barry (May 8, 2021)

Easy on the clear coat, been a while since I used an inkjet, but as I recall it only takes a slight misting to set the ink


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## megatrav (May 8, 2021)

I will try to reply in order:

-I will try lighter costs. I went pretty heavy handed because I was worried about the ink running.
-This is the paper I’m using: Water slide decal paper clear
If that isn’t great paper, please let me know what you’ve had success with.
-I am using warm, not hot water. I’ve been letting the paper soak for about 60 seconds before taking it out. 
I am able to get it flat on the enclosure and get most bubbles out, but when I come back to check on it, the corners and sides have come up. 
I am also using Krylon Crystal Clear. I tried Minwax Polycrylic as well but it did not turn out as well as the Krylon.

Hopefully the lighter coats and slightly smaller paper will work out.
Thanks for all the replies and advice!


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## peccary (May 8, 2021)

megatrav said:


> I will try to reply in order:
> 
> -I will try lighter costs. I went pretty heavy handed because I was worried about the ink running.
> -This is the paper I’m using: Water slide decal paper clear
> ...


I was replying thinking you were talking about the no film waterslide, so my comment may or may not may not be relevant. Sorry about that. I've not used the regular waterslide other than for models, but I figure this is different than that.


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## Gordo (May 9, 2021)

Something that might help is what plastic modelers use on their builds.  You can find it at a hobby shop.  It's by Microscale Industries and it's called Micro Sol.  It softens the decal and helps it conform to curves and irregular shapes.  Works like a champ on pebbled powdercoating as well.


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## megatrav (May 9, 2021)

Gordo said:


> Something that might help is what plastic modelers use on their builds.  You can find it at a hobby shop.  It's by Microscale Industries and it's called Micro Sol.  It softens the decal and helps it conform to curves and irregular shapes.  Works like a champ on pebbled powdercoating as well.


Thanks for the tip. I was happy to find that it’s inexpensive as well!


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## Gordo (May 9, 2021)

Nice part is you can buy a cheap paintbrush and paint the stuff over the decal once it's in place and hit it a few times if necessary.  This is a fairly extreme example but is a large decal done with a color laser over a pebble ivory powdercoat.


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## peccary (May 9, 2021)

Gordo said:


> Something that might help is what plastic modelers use on their builds.  You can find it at a hobby shop.  It's by Microscale Industries and it's called Micro Sol.  It softens the decal and helps it conform to curves and irregular shapes.  Works like a champ on pebbled powdercoating as well.


I did use Micro Sol and Micro Set when I was doing models. That stuff really does help quite a bit.


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## megatrav (May 10, 2021)

Very cool! I purchased some Micro Sol (not the Micro Set) I am going to experiment with some lighter clear coats today and I should be able to test out the decal in a few days.  
It seems like this stuff might be similar to mod podge?


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## megatrav (May 10, 2021)

Gordo said:


> Nice part is you can buy a cheap paintbrush and paint the stuff over the decal once it's in place and hit it a few times if necessary.  This is a fairly extreme example but is a large decal done with a color laser over a pebble ivory powdercoat.


Those look really cool!


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## EGRENIER (May 10, 2021)

megatrav said:


> I will try to reply in order:
> 
> -I will try lighter costs. I went pretty heavy handed because I was worried about the ink running.
> -This is the paper I’m using: Water slide decal paper clear
> ...



I haven't done tons, but with 4 successful waterslide graphics, here's my advices:
- Lukewarm water is what you want
- You shouldn't need much more than 15-20 seconds in water, longer may dissolve the waterslide adhesive.
- Always clean your enclosure first and then don't touch it with your finger, a bit of finger grease could create your issue.  Specially if you hold your enclosure by the edge where your waterslide tend not to stick
- I use a small soft paint brush to remove bubble and slowly dry out the surface.  I first wet the brush and then just dab it on my jeans/t-shirt to remove excess water.  Every time I make a pass to flatten the water slide, I dab it again.  The brush should slowly soak up the extra water of the slide and get you to an almost dry surface.
- Make sure you brush from the inside to the outside and that all edges a fully flat to the enclosure.
- Let the slide dry thoroughly before applying any type of lacquer. 

my 2 cents...


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## Gordo (May 10, 2021)

+1^


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## megatrav (May 10, 2021)

EGRENIER said:


> I haven't done tons, but with 4 successful waterslide graphics, here's my advices:
> - Lukewarm water is what you want
> - You shouldn't need much more than 15-20 seconds in water, longer may dissolve the waterslide adhesive.
> - Always clean your enclosure first and then don't touch it with your finger, a bit of finger grease could create your issue.  Specially if you hold your enclosure by the edge where your waterslide tend not to stick
> ...


That sounds pretty sound. I will pick up a little paint brush this week and give that a shot.
I am still trying to get the clear coat right. I did lighter coats and the paint ran so I may need to do one more coat before I try to put them in water


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## megatrav (May 10, 2021)

Also, I am using Krylon Colormaxx clear.. I tried some Minwax polycrylic but when it dried there were spots on the paper so I didn’t try it. 
Is there something better I should try or is this one alright?


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## chris (May 11, 2021)

megatrav said:


> Those look really cool!


FYI, "old timers" used white vinegar (the household stuff) both as MICROSET to pre-coat the surface BEFORE applying the decal, and it also helps like MICROSOL to flatten it after applying. Use a mix of water & vinegar 50/50 and a drop of dish washing detergent. Some also use alcool. There are plenty of tutorials about decals in the world of model makers that can help. Particularly, once you will apply MICRO SOL on the decal AFTER having applied it, it will crumple awfully. DON'T TOUCH IT until it flattens again. Normally it will have softened, thinned  and follow every bump of the surface. You also need to remove all the water trapped between the decal and the surface you want it to adhere to, with lint free tissue, coton swabs, etc. Also apply a layer of gloss finish on your pedal before and after applying the decal. WIKIPEDIA teaches us that the decal uses dextrose, a corn sugar, as the bonding / sliding agent, and also glucose as an adhesive. No wonder these organic materials will react with vinegar or alcool, or other organic fluids. Hope this makes sense, English not my natural langage ("pardon my French"   
+1 on the VERY THIN coat of clear coat on the decal after printing it and having let the ink dry thoroughly (for ink jet printers).


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## EGRENIER (May 11, 2021)

megatrav said:


> Also, I am using Krylon Colormaxx clear.. I tried some Minwax polycrylic but when it dried there were spots on the paper so I didn’t try it.
> Is there something better I should try or is this one alright?



Krylon should work just fine... I use Rust-Oleum Painters Touch 2X - Gloss clear.  I usually apply 3 or 4 coats, not to thick, just enough for the enclosure to shine but not to much so I don't have runs.  I never counted but I would say 5 or 6 spray of 2 to 3 seconds max. I let dry 3 to 4h between coat.  I never tried this but for a smoother finish if you get orange peel out of a can, you can put the can in hot water 30 min or so before applying.  I understand it help the product to level better on your surface.  Never tried it, never felt the need to... After all I'm going to step on the thing 

Another trick is that I don't pierce the holes (through the waterslide) before applying the finish, in other words, my waterslide decal runs over the enclosure holes.  Once the 3 or 4 coats of gloss is applied and nicely cured, I use an exacto knife to cut the whole out.

I think based on the info you provided, the main issue is letting the decals in water to long and not letting it fully dry.  My enclosure can be a good 48h after I apply the decals before putting the clear.  I often notice little details in my graphics (such as reversing the pots location) LOL... So I soak them right up and reprint to correct my silly mistake.

E.


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## megatrav (May 11, 2021)

I have been following the instructions on the can which are spray clear, light costs and wait 1 minute between coats. Maybe I’m not letting it dry long enough before adding another coat. 
It feels like my issue is that I’m getting wrinkling on the film or it will tear. I am going to experiment with some of the suggestions given above.


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## chris (May 20, 2021)

Welll... I recently advocated about a VERY THIN clearcoat, but yesterday I ruined a project with too thin a coat (two coats in fact). My inkjet printing partially melted in the water, then the decal was so thin that it did not want to stay flat while moving it, and still, it showed awful raised edges once dry ! I found a very good advice about how to cut every label : use a NEW Xacto blade (no scissors), and first pass only cuts the upper film, not the carrying paper. Then a second pass cuts through the carrying paper. By NEW blade, they advised to replace it for every new decal page...
Here is the link to the thread found on a paper supplier ; I bet he knows what he is writing about   https://www.paperspecials.nl/en/howto/improving-the-application-of-decals/


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## megatrav (May 20, 2021)

chris said:


> Welll... I recently advocated about a VERY THIN clearcoat, but yesterday I ruined a project with too thin a coat (two coats in fact). My inkjet printing partially melted in the water, then the decal was so thin that it did not want to stay flat while moving it, and still, it showed awful raised edges once dry ! I found a very good advice about how to cut every label : use a NEW Xacto blade (no scissors), and first pass only cuts the upper film, not the carrying paper. Then a second pass cuts through the carrying paper. By NEW blade, they advised to replace it for every new decal page...
> Here is the link to the thread found on a paper supplier ; I bet he knows what he is writing about   https://www.paperspecials.nl/en/howto/improving-the-application-of-decals/


Thanks for sharing. I assumed the paper I had wasn’t good. I tried several combinations and varying amounts of clear and just gave up. I bought this cool dry transfer paper from Sunnyscopa and it’s working out really well


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