# New member, first time builder!



## megatrav (Aug 18, 2020)

Hey forum members,

I am brand new to the forum and brand new to pedal building. I have been doing as much homework as I can and looking at the different PCBs. For my first build I am going to go for the Sunflower fuzz. It doesn't have a lot of parts and seems like it would be fun!

I have been looking over previous threads as well as the beginner thread showing some basics. The only thing I have not been able to find an answer to is what voltage rating the capacitors should be? Also, what material would be best for this specific build? Or would they all be treated the same? 

Thanks in advance for any answers! If there are threads that already touch on this topic, please feel free to leave a link for me as well.


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## vigilante398 (Aug 18, 2020)

I figured I'd run into you here eventually  The material for the caps isn't super important, I personally like multilayer ceramic for smaller caps (like the 10nF) but polyester film box caps look a bit classier for a few more cents a piece. Aluminum electrolytics is probably what you'll want for the bigger caps.

Forthe 10nF cap you'll probably have a hard time finding anything less than 50V, which is of course fine. If you're going to run the pedal at 9V I would recommend using at least 16V caps for the electrolytics.

Good luck!

-Nathan


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## megatrav (Aug 18, 2020)

I guess I have a follow up question. It looks like the NKT275's are hard to find. I have read that pretty much any germanium one can be swapped. How about silicon? Would I need to change any other values of the circuit? I don't want to get in over my head at all.


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## megatrav (Aug 18, 2020)

vigilante398 said:


> I figured I'd run into you here eventually  The material for the caps isn't super important, I personally like multilayer ceramic for smaller caps (like the 10nF) but polyester film box caps look a bit classier for a few more cents a piece. Aluminum electrolytics is probably what you'll want for the bigger caps.
> 
> Forthe 10nF cap you'll probably have a hard time finding anything less than 50V, which is of course fine. If you're going to run the pedal at 9V I would recommend using at least 16V caps for the electrolytics.
> 
> ...


Thanks Nathan!


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## vigilante398 (Aug 18, 2020)

There are a few options you can substitute for the transistors, I would still recommend keeping germanium as that's the real fuzz face tone. You just need to make sure it's a PNP transistor with low leakage and an Hfe value between 40 and 70. I like AC128 as they're a little easier to find, but these are a good option as well.









						European 2N282
					

Small Bear Electronics DIY Parts




					smallbear-electronics.mybigcommerce.com


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## megatrav (Aug 18, 2020)

vigilante398 said:


> There are a few options you can substitute for the transistors, I would still recommend keeping germanium as that's the real fuzz face tone. You just need to make sure it's a PNP transistor with low leakage and an Hfe value between 40 and 70. I like AC128 as they're a little easier to find, but these are a good option as well.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


You're the man!


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## joelorigo (Aug 18, 2020)

Hi, welcome!
Here's a discussion about the same thing I had earlier this year:






						Substitute for...you guessed it, NKT275
					

Hi, Sorry in advance. I'm wanting to build the Sunflower. I'm still new to all this so I'm sure this is been discussed ad nauseam, but what to use if I can't get hold of 2 NKT275 transistors?   Pedal Hacker currently has a bunch of these...



					forum.pedalpcb.com


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## Nostradoomus (Aug 18, 2020)

I would honestly advise against something with finicky transistors as your first build. It may just frustrate you and make you quit haha. By all means order the board but maybe get something at the same time that uses common components like a boost or the Two Sticks of Derm fuzz...it’s way more fun and invigorating to have something work!


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## Ratimus (Aug 18, 2020)

Nostradoomus said:


> I would honestly advise against something with finicky transistors as your first build. It may just frustrate you and make you quit haha. By all means order the board but maybe get something at the same time that uses common components like a boost or the Two Sticks of Derm fuzz...it’s way more fun and invigorating to have something work!


This is generally good advice, but Fuzz Faces aren't really *that* finicky as long as you get low-leakage devices. At least it's not a mark 1 Tone Bender. ? 

Russian NOS transistors are cheap and fit the bill nicely. I've had nothing but good luck buying Russian germanium on eBay; there's a large enough supply that it's not subject to the same problems as ICs, JFETs, and the like.


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## megatrav (Aug 18, 2020)

Nostradoomus said:


> I would honestly advise against something with finicky transistors as your first build. It may just frustrate you and make you quit haha. By all means order the board but maybe get something at the same time that uses common components like a boost or the Two Sticks of Derm fuzz...it’s way more fun and invigorating to have something work!


You _might _be right, but a boost is so boring. I don't mind a challenge and as for components, the fuzz face is very simple. I am try to avoid spending a lot if I can help it. This seemed like the best way to go.


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## Nostradoomus (Aug 18, 2020)

Fair enough, most important thing is to have fun!


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## joelorigo (Aug 18, 2020)

Another thing to consider is BYOC has kits that come with everything and really good step by step instructions. I built 3 of them before I ventured out to buying a separate pcb and sourcing parts


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## megatrav (Aug 18, 2020)

joelorigo said:


> Another thing to consider is BYOC has kits that come with everything and really good step by step instructions. I built 3 of them before I ventured out to buying a separate pcb and sourcing parts


That is a good suggestion. A lot of their stuff has been sold out, but I do browse over there. 
My plan right now is to get all the components except for the transistors from tayda. They also sell the enclosures for pedalpcb which is awesome. 
All together its cheaper to order the parts then an already assembled kit and with tayda I have to order multiple of a lot of the components, so I will have extras or more that I can use later.


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## joelorigo (Aug 18, 2020)

Ohh cool I didn't know about the pre-drilled enclosures. However I don't see one for the Prince Albert based on the drill template.


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## megatrav (Aug 18, 2020)

joelorigo said:


> Ohh cool I didn't know about the pre-drilled enclosures. However I don't see one for the Prince Albert based on the drill template.


Yeah it doesn't look they do. You might be able to get away with the 6-hole version and just put a sticker over the extra hole


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## megatrav (Aug 18, 2020)

Another thing I am noticing when I look at the Price Albert pdf.. it doesn't show an LED light in the parts list. I don't think I want to add one with the Sunflower, but if I did.. where/how would I wire it in?


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## joelorigo (Aug 18, 2020)

It's at the top of the pcb. If I remember correctly the pcb has A and K pads


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## Barry (Aug 18, 2020)

joelorigo said:


> Ohh cool I didn't know about the pre-drilled enclosures. However I don't see one for the Prince Albert based on the drill template.


Use a six hole enclosure and a 5mm led with bezel will fill that hole


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## joelorigo (Aug 18, 2020)

Barry said:


> Use a six hole enclosure and a 5mm led with bezel will fill that hole


Yes.
Or, it looks like I could use the 5 knob they do have, and use a step bit to drill the LED hole in the upper row to fit a potentiometer, and use the led with a bezel for the middle hole in the lower row.


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## Barry (Aug 19, 2020)

joelorigo said:


> Yes.
> Or, it looks like I could use the 5 knob they do have, and use a step bit to drill the LED hole in the upper row to fit a potentiometer, and use the led with a bezel for the middle hole in the lower row.


I must be confused, I thought the Prince Albert build  had the Led in the lower row


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## joelorigo (Aug 19, 2020)

Barry said:


> I must be confused, I thought the Prince Albert build  had the Led in the lower row


It does. The photo of the 6 knob on Tayda has the 6 holes for the pots and an LED hole above the hole for the switch. So there would still be the extra LED hole. Not a big deal. But in the photo of the 5 hole enclosure, I you could use the lower middle hole for the bezel/LED and the upper middle for a pot (with a bit of extra drilling). Unless I'm missing something.


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## megatrav (Aug 19, 2020)

So, I ordered the Sunflower from Pedalpcb and I also ordered a Monad (Univox Unidrive clone) from aion electronics. I have wanted one of these, but pedalpcb doesn't have it. 
I sourced all of my parts.
Thanks again everyone for the advice!


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## joelorigo (Aug 20, 2020)

Good luck! One thing that is great is that the people here know everything and are amazing enough to help. I’ve already received above and beyond help and guidance on a few projects


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## Robert (Aug 20, 2020)

Just use the custom enclosure drilling service with this template:
https://docs.pedalpcb.com/project/drill/125B_5-Knob-Type-3.pdf




__





						Enclosure Custom Drill Service - Enclosures - Hardware
					






					www.taydaelectronics.com


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## megatrav (Aug 21, 2020)

Robert said:


> Just use the custom enclosure drilling service with this template:
> https://docs.pedalpcb.com/project/drill/125B_5-Knob-Type-3.pdf
> 
> 
> ...


Is there a link for all the different ones you have? Just curious for potential future builds


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## joelorigo (Aug 21, 2020)

Robert said:


> Just use the custom enclosure drilling service with this template:
> https://docs.pedalpcb.com/project/drill/125B_5-Knob-Type-3.pdf
> 
> 
> ...


Oh yeah! Thanks


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## megatrav (Sep 12, 2020)

I am so close to finishing the Sunflower. All I have left to do is wire up the switch and jacks. 
I have learned a ton along the way and I am sure my next build will be way smoother.


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## megatrav (Sep 12, 2020)

Okay so I finished it. The light comes on when the footswitch is engaged but it does have any sound going through it bypasses or engaged.
I am attaching photos. I used stereo jacks because that was all that was available from Tayda. 
I tried to take the best photos I could. I connected the wires that go to the switch to the tip on the jacks and the sleeve to the board. i also installed the transistors so that the red dot corresponds with the notch/lip (sorry I’m not sure what it’s called) on other transistor types. 
I am not sure if the switch needs to be turned a certain way, but I took pictures just in case.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!


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## megatrav (Sep 12, 2020)

Here are some


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## megatrav (Sep 12, 2020)

And more


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## megatrav (Sep 12, 2020)

Also I believe the IC is in the correct way. The indent is on the top left when looking at the perspective of the photos


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## Nostradoomus (Sep 12, 2020)

IC is the right way. You’ll need to link the two empty outer lugs on your footswitch. Output jack needs to be switched to this spot:


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## Nostradoomus (Sep 12, 2020)

Like so


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## megatrav (Sep 12, 2020)

Thank you!


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## megatrav (Sep 12, 2020)

Nostradoomus said:


> IC is the right way. You’ll need to link the two empty outer lugs on your footswitch. Output jack needs to be switched to this spot:
> 
> View attachment 6260


Just to clarify, you mean the white wire not the black one, correct?


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## Nostradoomus (Sep 12, 2020)

Sorry yeah, the white one!


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## megatrav (Sep 12, 2020)

Nostradoomus said:


> Sorry yeah, the white one!


No problem!

I added the wire to the switch and changed the lug on the jack. Now I have sound when bypassed but when it is engaged the signal drops to almost nothing and sounds like it’s cutting in and out. No fuzz sound at all


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## megatrav (Sep 12, 2020)

I’m going to try to test with the multimeter and see what I can find out.


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## Nostradoomus (Sep 12, 2020)

Flip your transistors around, the dot could indicate collector. The tab on the board is emitter.


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## megatrav (Sep 13, 2020)

That was exactly it. 
it works!!
Thanks for the help everyone!


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## megatrav (Sep 14, 2020)

After playing with the pedal for a bit, I will say that it really is a blast to play. Super versatile as well.
The only complaint I really have is the volume clean up. 
it does clean up when I roll back my volume control, but it isn’t gradual. It feels like it cuts off to clean very quickly


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## megatrav (Sep 15, 2020)

The cut off to clean seems to happen when I go from 10 to 9 on the volume on my guitar. I wonder if this is due to the transistors I used? Does anyone have any input?


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## Nostradoomus (Sep 15, 2020)

Could be the value of your guitars volume pot not jiving with the output impedance of the pedal. My strat is like that with some pedals. Just gotta deal with it ?‍♂️


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## megatrav (Sep 15, 2020)

Nostradoomus said:


> Could be the value of your guitars volume pot not jiving with the output impedance of the pedal. My strat is like that with some pedals. Just gotta deal with it ?‍♂️


I thought about that, but my guitar has a 500k pot in it. It also works well with overdrive pedals and amp gain. 
I guess it could be that specific circuit, I just find that strange.


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