# MBP sludgehammer



## Paradox916 (Jul 25, 2022)

In my quest to build a wall of tone rig, (not that I need a gig-able rig, and I doubt I will ever play in front of any one again) I wanted to split my signal and be able to dial in the bass/bottom end of my seven string, the Sludge Hammer seemed like the ticket.   It’s a tight fitting build, you have to bring your A game with the drill… seriously there is no room for error with the top jacks. It easy to make some mistakes on this build, don’t let it fool you. All in all a fun build that can be a bit of a challenge to try and up your game


----------



## Harry Klippton (Jul 25, 2022)

💅 those wire bends


----------



## Paradox916 (Jul 25, 2022)

thewintersoldier said:


> View attachment 29801


Slow and steady wins the race 🤣


----------



## Paradox916 (Jul 25, 2022)

Harry Klippton said:


> 💅 those wire bends


It’s tedious as hell but I like where this is going.


----------



## blackhatboojum (Jul 25, 2022)




----------



## Bricksnbeatles (Jul 25, 2022)

Radi-cool


----------



## MichaelW (Jul 25, 2022)

That looks awesome! And intimidating! 

How are you running this? DI direct into your interface? (I mean 7-string->Pedals-Sludge->interface?)


----------



## Paradox916 (Jul 25, 2022)

MichaelW said:


> That looks awesome! And intimidating!
> 
> How are you running this? DI direct into your interface? (I mean 7-string->Pedals-Sludge->interface?)


I haven’t had a chance to do much more than  a functional check. But my Idea at the moment is guitar > comp >Sludge Hammer balanced out  >interface(1)  direct out > to existing pedal chain> to interface(2) live I would swap the interface with a passive mixer to an amp or two separate amps. That’s at least the idea.


----------



## cwsquared (Jul 25, 2022)

Hot damn, that is some nice work.  I think @thewintersoldier said it best.


----------



## Deperduci (Jul 25, 2022)

space is tight, I normally just 'eyeball' the bit and go next size up for 'wiggle' after using the auto-punch through the paper but this 1, at least the top may want to glue/tape the template in place. when I get around to acquiring this 1, I might even go for the lumberg's to gain some room even though the chaining of grounds with a wire using that style is handy.


----------



## Harry Klippton (Jul 25, 2022)

It's bussin ong fr fr


----------



## fig (Jul 25, 2022)

Knockin’ it out! Love it!


----------



## benny_profane (Jul 25, 2022)

Deperduci said:


> I might even go for the lumberg's to gain some room even though the chaining of grounds with a wire using that style is handy.


This build requires insulated jacks to implement the ground lift.


----------



## Paradox916 (Jul 25, 2022)

Harry Klippton said:


> It's bussin ong fr fr


 Had to look this up to figure out what you just said🤣


----------



## Deperduci (Jul 25, 2022)

benny_profane said:


> This build requires insulated jacks to implement the ground lift.


I have some .080 sheet plastic left over from making pick guards to insulate the flats and then 2 coats of poly varnish in the holes or would use a 3d print box with toggle instead of stomp 3pdt. but with that said, the other benefits from using the insulated switch jacks are likely worth the location efforts. I don't gig so for my personal usage this 1 won't be on the floor. I should have added that to my previous posting, I know I know, bad nerd, no donuts!


----------



## benny_profane (Jul 25, 2022)

Deperduci said:


> I have some .080 sheet plastic left over from making pick guards to insulate the flats and then 2 coats of poly varnish in the holes or would use a 3d print box with toggle instead of stomp 3pdt. but with that said, the other benefits from using the insulated switch jacks are likely worth the location efforts. I don't gig so for my personal usage this 1 won't be on the floor. I should have added that to my previous posting, I know I know, bad nerd, no donuts!



The printed box would allow you to use metal jacks. Even while accounting for the mechanical stress by replacing the stomp with a toggle, my concern would be about shielding and there would be no way to implement the ground lift circuitry. If you run into issues, the insulated jacks are _very_ forgiving of over-drilling is required.

EDIT: I have no experience trying to insulate enclosure drill holes with varnish, but I think I would avoid that since failure seems rather probable.


----------



## Deperduci (Jul 25, 2022)

could be, I'm also reading the documentation. his words "If you are including the Balanced out option, you’ll need an SPDT switch and ground isolated jacks (three TR and one TRS)' and " If you are not using the Balanced output option, you do not need the SPDT switch. You can also use any style 1/4” jack. You’ll need up to three (Input, Direct Out, Output). Note, DirectOut is also optional and does not have to be used." from the build pdf. being home, not gigging, use I may skip the balanced output. as for varnish, been working inside wire wound transformers since... Tesla was working for Edison. I've got a couple insulated switch  jacks left over from trying to add an effects loop option to MBP's Current Lover, I can't get the nuts tight enough or that may have just been that set since I got them from tayda instead of LMS. anywho for most people do stick to what the build docs say, what I'm doing is for ME and ME only  😉


----------



## Paradox916 (Jul 25, 2022)

Deperduci said:


> could be, I'm also reading the documentation. his words "If you are including the Balanced out option, you’ll need an SPDT switch and ground isolated jacks (three TR and one TRS)' and " If you are not using the Balanced output option, you do not need the SPDT switch. You can also use any style 1/4” jack. You’ll need up to three (Input, Direct Out, Output). Note, DirectOut is also optional and does not have to be used." from the build pdf. being home, not gigging, use I may skip the balanced output. as for varnish, been working inside wire wound transformers since... Tesla was working for Edison. I've got a couple insulated switch  jacks left over from trying to add an effects loop option to MBP's Current Lover, I can't get the nuts tight enough or that may have just been that set since I got them from tayda instead of LMS. anywho for most people do stick to what the build docs say, what I'm doing is for ME and ME only  😉


Sounds interesting I look forward to seeing the  build report!


----------



## Deperduci (Jul 25, 2022)

nothing against tayda, they get parts from different manufacturers and tell you so on each page not from a specific maker, where I think LMS has only 1-2 suppliers, tayda rarely is out of stock but LMS does have out of stock days. different suppliers means different EXACT specs. I drilled a 5/16 hole, some jacks are 10mm others are 9/32. the TR jacks I have needed a .44in/11.5(.2 actually)mm hole vs the loose 1 I have from LMS for checking fit while drilling. the box I used might be thinnner as well, I have a couple 'cnc' grade boxes which have thinner side walls and the gap on most tayda for the wall are fine for standard, thicker walls. what works for me is a good chance does NOT work for the next 5 in line. I only harsh/neg criticize my own cranial flatulance. a fair number of my commentary posts should almost start with "don't try this at home until you see video that it actually worked and not changed my hair-do!"

sorry OP, that build certainly fornicates.  and 1st time I bothered looking at the board was after winter's own build report with recordings and great pics of a tight, thematic build.


----------



## Robert (Jul 25, 2022)

That's a nice looking build!     

I wonder if we could find some sort of plastic bushings to isolate metal jacks from the enclosure on projects like these.


----------



## Deperduci (Jul 25, 2022)

> Robert said:
> 
> 
> > That's a nice looking build!
> ...


what I was considering after the , "spirited" , discussion about my build modification ideas. combining the varnish and plastic sheet, a larger hole lined with like .010 thick plastic and varnish over it, or maybe just a thoroughly bonded plastic to inside the holes. I don't own the board yet and will be awhile after the spree I used from the contest gift card. I just checked prices, from LMS the insulated jacks are currently the cheapest for future buyers and tayda's insulated are only 4 US pennies per more vs these or are you looking to use up an existing supply of jacks?


----------



## Robert (Jul 25, 2022)

Tayda's insulated jacks won't easily fit (PCB mounted) in a top-mounted configuration in a 125B, but the original Neutriks will.

I'm not knocking Tayda, I use Tayda parts almost exclusively, but the insulated jacks are wider than the original Neutrik.

I realize that isn't an issue here, but there are times when it would be helpful to have an easily reproducible solution.


----------



## benny_profane (Jul 25, 2022)

The only issue with the Neutriks is their height, although they seem to be tolerant to bending the tabs. It would be handy to have a generic option of that package available.


----------



## Deperduci (Jul 25, 2022)

I see, boards like this 1 that have the jacks 'loose' and can be adjusted/wiggled a little. Tayda currently has only a 1590b and BB board using their jacks and your own board for the top end of 125b's Rob need the narrower Neutrik's and been awhile since I saw any of those  floating for sale.


----------



## cwsquared (Jul 25, 2022)

Robert said:


> That's a nice looking build!
> 
> I wonder if we could find some sort of plastic bushings to isolate metal jacks from the enclosure on projects like these.


Is that what, dare I say it, the white washers are for?


----------



## Robert (Jul 25, 2022)

cwsquared said:


> Is that what, dare I say it, the white washers are for?



That's similar to what I mean.   I've installed BNC connectors that came with a nylon insulating sleeve, somewhat like this:






You still end up with the mechanical durability of metal threads/nuts, but electrically insulated from the enclosure.


----------



## cwsquared (Jul 25, 2022)

Robert said:


> That's similar to what I mean.   I've installed BNC connectors that came with a nylon insulating sleeve, somewhat like this:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I know, just seemed funny to me that we all (well, some of us) "hate" on white plastic doodads, and that is kinda whats required here.


----------



## Robert (Jul 25, 2022)

There is nearly 2mm difference in body width between Tayda (left) and Neutrik (right).

That's 4mm difference for a pair, which might not seem like much, but can be a deal breaker when tight tolerances are involved.


----------



## cwsquared (Jul 25, 2022)

Good work @Paradox916, I don't know that I have the skills or patience to be able to pull this one off anywhere near as well.

And with that, I think I have done enough damage today, so I'm out.


----------



## Deperduci (Jul 25, 2022)

was the print something run off a regular home printer or did you make the image for something like stompbox/taydaUV printing?


----------



## Paradox916 (Jul 25, 2022)




----------



## jimilee (Jul 25, 2022)

Robert said:


> There is nearly 2mm difference in body width between Tayda (left) and Neutrik (right).
> 
> That's 4mm difference for a pair, which might not seem like much, but can be a deal breaker when tight tolerances are involved.
> 
> View attachment 29821


That’s when you break out the dremel tool. Hold my beer, it will fit.


----------



## Robert (Jul 25, 2022)

Yep, that's what I had to do with the little TPA power amp prototype.


----------



## Deperduci (Jul 25, 2022)

the 2 caps, the size diff is 2mm for lead spacing, 5.5ish for the MLLC and the film is 7.5. ignore the rest, was laying there from planning out this guitar build and the comically over sized inductor I got from Mouser.


----------

