# parentheses mini fuzz, only sound out of rat side, V quiet.



## Lvfthvnd (May 29, 2020)

I'm having quite the time as a beginner trying to build this Parenthases mini fuzz. I feel that I populated the board pretty carefully and I've gone over the joints a couple times but I am still unable to get much out of this guy. At first I had trouble with transistors as I could not find any 2n5089, or pf5102. I found replacements for both and now I am getting sound out of the fuzz side only of the pedal, but it is super quiet. The boost side of the pedal is also cutting out all sound. Bypass seems to be working just fine. I have a pretty bad photo of the state of my PCB just after trying tons of different stuff with the switches, and jacks. My only experience is in building a brutalist JR, so I'm not really well equipped in terms of parts, or skill. I was wondering if anything pops out. Or if anyone has pointers on testing my circuit. 


https://imgur.com/a/dcL3lFr


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## Nostradoomus (May 29, 2020)

I would suggest reading the Basic Workflow Tips thread stickied at the top of the general questions forum. That is definitely not how you are supposed to wire the 3PDT board and basically negates the point of it. Not saying that is your problem, but it sure is a waste of money haha.


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## Lvfthvnd (May 29, 2020)

Nostradoomus said:


> I would suggest reading the How To Build thread stickied at the top of the general questions forum. That is definitely not how you are supposed to wire the 3PDT board and basically negates the point of it. Not saying that is your problem, but it sure is a waste of money haha.


Yeah, that was the part that I said “trying different stuff with the switches”


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## Nostradoomus (May 29, 2020)

Ah ok. What did you substitute for PF5102 and 2N5089? Where did you get them?


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## Lvfthvnd (May 29, 2020)

I got them from parts express. Currently both are substituted with 2n3904 which gave me sound. I also have some 2n2222a’s that give sound in the pf slots. I got them from micro center. My local shop doesn’t open until Monday so I’m just trying stuff.


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## Lvfthvnd (May 29, 2020)

I built a down and dirty audio probe, but I can’t find a schematic. I found sound in a lot of spots on the board. I think the boost (q5? I think) needs something better than the 2n3904.... afaik that’s all that’s in that circuit?


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## Nostradoomus (May 29, 2020)

You can’t substitute PF5102 with 2n3904, they are completely different! Same with the BS170 on the boost side. You’ll want to find an N Channel JFET (I found 2n5458 or BF244 work well here) to sub the 5102.


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## Lvfthvnd (May 29, 2020)

Nostradoomus said:


> You can’t substitute PF5102 with 2n3904, they are completely different! Same with the BS170 on the boost side. You’ll want to find an N Channel JFET (I found 2n5458 or BF244 work well here) to sub the 5102.


Dude thank you. I’m stopping in my local shop on Monday to grab some dead stock lm308’s I’ll see what he has. I was thinking I fucked the germanium or shotky diodes. I’m sick if ordering parts and waiting, I just want to doom


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## Nostradoomus (May 29, 2020)

That’s fair! BS170 mosfets are still in production so you shouldn’t have trouble there. If your shop is out see if they have 2n7000, same thing with opposite pin out.


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## Lvfthvnd (May 29, 2020)

also, should I be using box caps in some of these places? I’m seeing that more in builds than the ceramics that I use in most spots


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## Nostradoomus (May 29, 2020)

I use ceramics for Picofarad values (pf) and box type for everything else non polarized.


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## farwest1 (May 30, 2020)

Normally you use the 3pdt breakout board so that you don't have to solder to the switch lugs themselves. You just solder to the pads labeled in/out/sw./etc. Much easier. Looks like you purchased the breakout boards but then soldered according to the wiring diagram instead?

Also, your soldering is pretty sloppy. You should read and watch tutorials on soldering. Here's my process:

Use a small tip with a flat side (I like a small bevel tip T-2c. It allows the solder to flow down the face of the tip, but is small enough to reach tight areas.)
Use 60/40 solder
Heat soldering iron to between 300-350º C
Tin your tip
Personally I prefer solid wire to stranded. I find stranded harder to work with, and stray wire hairs can mess up a build.
(use a headlamp and/or magnifying glasses)
Flux both the wire leads and the pads with a flux pen
Insert 5-10 components at a time, solder them in, clip the leads. Re-tin. Do 5-10 more.
Wipe your tip on brass or sponge to clean every 2 or 3 solders.
Hold the tip against both component and pad for a 5 count to heat. Don't overheat or burn the pads.
Flow straightened solder (straighten with fingers) for a 2 count onto component+pad.
The soldered lead should have a nice conical slope to it. Shouldn't look either flat or slumped or ballooned. Think Mt. Fuji (or Mt. Hood if you've been to Portland.)
Clean the flux off the soldered surface by laying a paper towel over it, pouring a bit of isopropyl alcohol, and rubbing with toothbrush.
A lot of your solder seems to blob up. Also, you're burning tons of components and wires. Careful of the shaft of your iron—while you're concentrating on the tip, it can be destroying things you're not paying attention to.

Also, work on a flat surface. I prefer a self-healing cutting mat. Did you solder that on sheets and towels? That stuff can light on fire.


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